So if i'm going 45mph or high, my rear driveshaft vibrates noticeably. I decided to jack it up and get underneath while the wheels were turning and I could see that the driveshaft (mostly at the rear u-joint) moves quite a bit and is apparently out of line or balance. However, I also have a creeking/squeeking noise when the vehicle is in motion at low speeds, it's coming from the rear u-joint and did not change when I greased it. Does anyone know if I simply replaced the u-joint, that would fix the vibration and movement of the driveshaft or should I get the driveshaft aligned at a shop?? I just know that I can't afford a new one right now.

 

You can check alignment and phasing yourself:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Phasing
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#Measurements

Change the u-joint if it feels worn. And if that doesn't fix it, have a shop check the shaft for straightness/balance.

 

I had the same problem and changed out my Ujoints and it fixed it. They aren't hard to do. Just make sure you mark the shaft so you can putit back together properly, I wouldn't wait to long before deciding to do something,the joints round off fast.

 

I hope that's all it is. Now i just have to find time to put in new ujoints. I"ve got the part i've had for a while as a spare. What tools did you need to press in the new ones?

 

I just use either a vice if in the garage or else I use a C-clamp. Either way, You will need a socket big enough for a cup for the opposite side cap to press into and another socket about the same size as the cap.

 

Well, my old man is a big rig mechanic. We could have used his press at work, but we just used a screw driver to pop off the Clips,and then socket and a hammer to get em apart . Same deal with getting them back together...just be sure to hold the one side in..using a socket or your thumb or something when putting the new ones in, because if you don't you end up with bearings everywhere. This happend to me, however my dads friends with the parts guys and got me another one within a half hour. I likely could have just repacked the bearings but oh well.

 

New u-joint is on now and problem completely resolved. Just a follow up. It's actually been fixed for a while now.

 

I saw these postings on driveshaft vibrations and I wanted to see if anyone have the same problem as mine is a bit different from the ones described here.
I own 1992 V6 4WD MT 4Runner and the rear driveshaft vibrates when you take off your foot from the gas pedal at about 60-65 miles. Vibration goes away when you step on the gas pedal and won't show if you cruising with applying your foot on the gas pedal. A friend suggested it is the slip yoke and I have to replace the rear driveshaft. Any opinions? Can I get the slip yoke by itself? Thanks

 

I have the same issue. Under power, no problem. As soon as you relax the power I get a vibration. I've changed u-joints, adjusted my pinion angles and checked play in my slip. It's hard to say if it's coming from my rear end though, I kinda feel it everywhere, not just in the seat. 3.0 V6 AT

 

For the slip yoke test, you can get under the vehicle and firmly grasp the section of the shaft where the slip yoke is and give it a tug, feeling for any up/down left/right play and do likewise at the pinion flange, I had had that sort of vibration from a loose pinion flange.

Can also separate the shaft (mark the alignment for re-installation) and use a brush to apply grease liberally to the male spline section. Put back together and see if the vibes diminish, if so the slip yoke splines may be worn. A driveline shop can replace that section. Or check the drive angles on the driveshaft:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#Measurements
If the lower u-joint angle is a little too low, it can vibrate under coasting conditions.

 

I am positive I have the rear driveshaft vibrations. I have it converted to manual locking hubs so I drive it most of the time (except off road and during the winter) in RWD with front unlocked. If the driveshaft is out of balance or if its fly bearing shouldn't I get vibrations at almost any speed regardless whether I apply power or not?

 

Thanks 4crawler. I do have more play compared to my friends driveshaft. I will attempt to perform the sleeve yoke tests you suggested and will report back next week.

 

Weird I have this same issue, but it really noticeable 75+ (vibration and noise). Under acceleration its smooth as glass, but coasting and keeping speed its back. I'm getting my tires balanced tomorrow so that I know its not them. This weekend I'll be back home so I'll put the truck on jack stands and give it some gas and watch what happens to the drive-shaft as speed increases. Also I will be putting manual hubs so I can rule out the front drive-train. I also have liberally lubed the drive-shaft components and barley noticed any difference.

 

Well, driveshaft vibrations can be a complex issue as to cause and affect. First, unless a driveshaft is running with no angle at either u-joint (i.e. it is dead in line from the transfer case to the differential), it is going to vibrate:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...n-Measurements
And the more angle the shaft is at and especially the more mis-aligned the two ends are the more it is going to vibrate.

But, you may not feel that vibration unless there is something else wrong (normally the minor vibrations are absorbed by the torsional flexing of the tube of the shaft itself). For example a loose part some place (pinion flange, slip yoke, u-joint, etc.) and then that vibration can be felt. Why on and off power affects it? One simple reason is load. Take a loose slip yoke and put 100 ft. lbs. of torque on it and those splines will lock up pretty tight. Take your foot off the gas and there is no load on the splines and they are free to move around (i.e. vibrate). A more complicated reason is that the pinion on the axle will move up (under load) and down (under coasting/engine braking) changing the angle. This is more pronounced on a leaf spring truck (i.e. axle wrap) but on a lined rear end, if the link bushings are a bit worn/loose or the pinion angle is right on the hairy edge, this can also happen.

 

4Crawler's mind is full of knowledge.

You gave me alot to think about. I will def. look more into my issue in particular this weekend and report back what I discovered (if anything).

 

i have a 88 4runner 3.0 auto
i know this is old but i have this same issue. at coast at only certain speeds but from 70 coasting down i get this loud rumbling sound. no vibrations unless i grab the t-case shifter i can feel a little vibration. i have already changed the trans mount, u joints and issue still there. i was able to get a hold of another driveshaft but the ends was gone. so i took the brand new u joints off with the ends of my old shaft and installed it on the shaft i just go. no difference. under load the noise is gone. coasting it will rumble.
i do have zuk mod done and i wanna say this might have caused some axle wrap but at 65+, i dont think it would have any axle wrap when coasting or i could be wrong.

im about to go get my shaft balanced till i found this thread. i wonder if my u joints dont have enough angle in them and this is why i have this issue. hope 4crawler or anyone could fill me in on some info

 

First thing is to check the angles on the drive shaft:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#Measurements

And also check the pinion and t-case flanges for play. Loose flanges can show up as noise/vibration while coasting.

 

After getting a 881+ spacer/890 set-up on the runner and a new rear shaft built, I have narrowed my high speed rumbling down to the pinion angle being to far off. It is pointed down right now (in relation to the shaft) and without actual measurements, Im guessing 3-5 degrees down. Its a high speed vibration/rumble and not really all that bad, but noticeable and annoying.

All Ive found so far are adjustable lower arms... It would be nice to find some adjustable uppers since the rear axle rotates forward already with the lift and the OE lower arms are already beefier than the uppers.

 

http://www.chaosfab.com/toyaccess_taco.php

 

Those are some adjustable uppers....

At those prices, I could have my new shaft reworked with a double cardan at the axle end and have quite a bit left over.

Im still wondering how ToyTec is getting almost $300 for a set of lowers. Are the materials really that expensive?