sdsurfer

ok, a lot has happened and a lot has not happened since last post. replacement engine is almost ready and I have started to remove parts out of the way for engine to come out...

see pics below.

one question, how do i remove fuel lines without gas going everywhere? i have a half tank.

2nd, valve cover gasket aperas to be ok but gromets are shot and cracking. is there a after market gasket SET for valve covers that is good? sticking with OEM is good idea, but im out of money. thanks

surfer

pics sorry!

blake.nemitz

looks good!!

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

its up to you. I prefer to pull the xfer & transmission first so the engine comes out vertically.

If you are doing an automatic make sure you retain the torque converter and do not crush your front pump putting the engine in. I much prefer dropping the trans first, less likely to damage it. YMMV

j-man

fyi, ive done a pull & install in my 4runner in 12 hours, and that was with a complete turbo system on the motor & a beer later - 1st time ever doing it. I would opt to unbolt the tranny from the motor & leave the tranny where it is - its a lot less headache. You will however need to unsnap all the electrical connections on top of the tranny, and with big gringo hands---you will see blood---but par for the course. Just get the new motor all ready & cleaned up before you drop it in. Might as well clean the engine bay while your at it so it at least looks new when its all said & done. All the little nuts & bolts - put them in separate ziplock bags & label each bag so you know which ones are the alternator bolts/nuts and which ones are the powersteering bolts/nuts. TAking cell phone pics before you pull is immensly helpful when your re-connecting the new motor up. Be careful when you pull the old motor - theres a wire on the front diff actuator that needs to be unclipped before you pull motor. Just double & triple check every wire that its unsnapped before you yank - its sucks having to splice new connectors on things. good luck.

sdsurfer

nice thanks man. I am so over my head its not even funny. But, hopefuly with the many pics I have taken, keeping the items separate, (newer engine stuff, truck item removed etc) ill have an engine that fires up and runs smooth. valve cover gromets are shot but im affraid if I do too much repairing, it wont run. and

right now I can't even get the plug wire connector off the alternator. duh

so FAR:

removed hood, removed air box assembly, drained and removed radiator and oil cooler etc.removed fan and disconnected the wiring harness, starter connectors, and now hung up.

thanks all again! Im out of luck and you are all keeping me going!

sdsurfer

Ok today should be the day to remove engine. I'm still waiting for aftermarket valve cover gasket set via USPS mail. If I do get it out I will update with pics.

Today I need get 4 bolts for 2nd engine stand, finish removing harness from behind glovebox, remove motor mounts and tranny/engine bolts. Six? Do k need to losen tranny to lift engine away, then up? I am following the FSM and the say pull tranny, I am choosing not to so other then the wire to disconnect, any other hurdles to jump? My bro want his truck back like yesterday! Wish me luck, later

JBurt

Any updates? How is the swap going?

BajaRunner

Lookin' good... Like to see some more pics.

sdsurfer

How about a video? Excuse my sniffs, I'm getting a cold . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uISrY1_IzEI



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhJTptr_dA0


Part three will be when we pull motor out and attach to stand. Sorry if quality stinks, apple 3GS?

sdsurfer

owners manual says one bolt but are there 4?

see below from owners manual...

i now have the wiring harness off of tranny, PAIN in the butt.

also I have all bolts off tranny and starter. rear plate has also been removed now I see the flex plate.

sdsurfer

the FSM is typo. it says on 13. bolt but it means 6 bolts which below it shows. DUH!!! noob here

sdsurfer

No video, no hands available during engine removal but here are pics.








now I took a look and this side is different then tundra motor. it has this thing where the hose from water pump goes back into motor see? do i need it on 4runner? it was on 4runner so I say yes, install it but do i need gaskets for what ever this thing is?




anyone still watching?

thankS!!! sdsurf

rworegon

That thing with the hose going to the water pump is the engine oil cooler. Yes, there is a gasket and a couple of o-rings..dealer items most likely.

Change the info to your vehicle for exact part numbers:
http://www.toyotapartseast.com/compo...-03-11946.html

JBurt

Good work man. You're braver than me. I hope you get it up and running soon.

rworegon

sdsurfer, you are planning on replacing the valve cover gaskets since they been leaking? You may also want to replace both timing belt pulleys and the hydraulic tensioner when you put the new t-belt back on if they are getting up in miles.

rworegon

In case you break the alternator connector:
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Terminals.html

JBurt

And if you are going to replace gaskets, t-belt, etc. it's probably going to be easier before you drop the new engine in

sdsurfer

Nice thanks! Do I need to use it though? Can I cap water nipple off of thermostat housing and not even use it? I am sure it is "better" but needed?

braver or perhaps broker.

I'd much rather be surfing then swapping harnesses off engines.

I already did valve cover gaskets/ spark tube seals and bolt grommets. I used grey gasket maker on gaskets too.

Thanks a lot! That will be helpful but the harness is off now it's time to move runner harness to tundra motor.

done. Way easier on stand. Now I have both motors on stands today will be final prep and hopefully motor drop in! Whoohoo

rworegon

Well, since the Toyota engineers felt it was necessary on the original engine, I'd swap it over. Your oil temps just might appreciate it. Absolutely necessary....probably not.

sdsurfer

Yeah and
The 01 tundra it came out of could have been 4x2 manual. I will remove after football and post pics of orings n gasket/s.