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95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Clutch Bleeding

Old 12-01-2005, 05:55 PM
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Clutch Bleeding

Helped a buddy try to bleed a clutch... just installed a new master cyl. Went through at least two full reseviors of fluid and pedal is still mush... is there some trick i need to know?

Thanks
Old 12-01-2005, 05:58 PM
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Try moving the adjustment nut on the MC. I ended up having over 110 bucks wasted because I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work. Move it somewhere near the midle of the threads, a little closer to the firewall, not the pedal. If its not in the right spot, it won't stiffen up regardless of how much you bleed it.
Old 12-01-2005, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by colsoncj
Helped a buddy try to bleed a clutch... just installed a new master cyl. Went through at least two full reseviors of fluid and pedal is still mush... is there some trick i need to know?

Thanks

Did you bench bleed the master?
Old 12-01-2005, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by formulatoy#36
Did you bench bleed the master?
Exactly what I was going to say, if you put the master on without bench bleeding you won't get the air out. To bench bleed clamp it in a vise with the flange, making sure it's level. Fill the reservoir, connect a hose from the outlet and loop it round so the end is under the fluid in the reservoir and push the piston in all the way. Let the piston return and repeat until there are no more bubbles. Then install it and bleed the system.
Old 12-01-2005, 07:38 PM
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Heres what me and my buddy found:
Clutch Master Cylinder Bleeding Instructions
I had a biatch of a time when I replaced my clutch master trying to get the darn thing bled. No matter how much I bled it, the pedal was still a sponge. After placing a call to a buddy who works at a Toyota wrecking yard, his mechanic gave me this quick tip and it worked perfect the first time, even if you didnt bench bleed it before bolting it up to the firewall:

1.) Adjust the bracket that pins to the clutch pedal so that it has about 1/4" free play
2.) Fill the Clutch Master cyl resevoir ( duh )
3.) Open the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder ( on the bellhousing for newbies, pass side, follow the hydraulic line from the clutch master down, you'll see it ) and without pumping the pedal, just let it drain until the resevoir is about 1/2 empty.
4.) Close the bleeder and fill the resevoir
5.) Have someone pump the clutch 5 times and hold, open the bleeder at the slave & bleed the system, closing the valve before fluid flow stops ( again for newbies )
6.) Repeat step 5 until there is no more air bubbles when you bleed the system.

If you followed the directions, you should have noticable clutch within 3 bleeding cycles, and be done within 6 cycles, whether or not you bench bled the clutch master before installing.

My buddy didnt bench bleed it, but we did follow somewhat close to those directions (all except adjusting the pedal)....

I guess adjust the pedal, see if that gets it, if not, try bench bleeding it on the truck...
Old 12-01-2005, 07:40 PM
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I've managed to bleed brake masters without benching them, so has he, so we figured a clutch isnt that much different, slap it on there and give it a whirl....
Old 12-01-2005, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by eric-the-red
Exactly what I was going to say, if you put the master on without bench bleeding you won't get the air out. To bench bleed clamp it in a vise with the flange, making sure it's level. Fill the reservoir, connect a hose from the outlet and loop it round so the end is under the fluid in the reservoir and push the piston in all the way. Let the piston return and repeat until there are no more bubbles. Then install it and bleed the system.

Agreed. Definitely bench bleed the MC before you work on the slave, otherwise you're more than likely trapping air in your hydraulic line.

Troy

Last edited by YotaJunky; 12-02-2005 at 03:03 AM.
Old 12-01-2005, 09:55 PM
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If i do have problems.. once its bench bled, is it bleed line as usual, or crack bleeder and let it flow til constant?
Old 12-02-2005, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by eric-the-red
Exactly what I was going to say, if you put the master on without bench bleeding you won't get the air out. To bench bleed clamp it in a vise with the flange, making sure it's level. Fill the reservoir, connect a hose from the outlet and loop it round so the end is under the fluid in the reservoir and push the piston in all the way. Let the piston return and repeat until there are no more bubbles. Then install it and bleed the system.
bench bleeding is not totally necissary, Didn't have to do it to mine. Better thing to do is put it on, then put the hose on the slave bleeder valve and put the end in a jar with fluid then pump it until no bubbles. Two birds, one stone.

Last edited by bob200587; 12-02-2005 at 04:24 AM.
Old 12-02-2005, 05:21 AM
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Thanks guys... will let ya know how it works out.
Old 12-05-2005, 08:28 AM
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What you want is a MityVac vacuum pump/brake bleeder. Once you try this device you won't ever go back to manual bleeding. One person operation, no need to pre-bleed, pump the pedal ect. I bled my clutch in all of about five minutes total. I got mine from Autozone for about $30, came with an assortment of hoses and adapters.
Old 12-05-2005, 09:55 AM
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ended up tryin a few things.... very screwy... Put a new slave on too. then went to bleed it... did a kinda sorta bench bleed on the master, on the truck. put a hose on the bleeder screw on the slave, stuck the hose in fluid and pumped the life out of it... did get firm. closed it, and got actuation. did the normal pump, hold, bleed, pump hold, bleed thing, and it lost actuation. ended up puttin a hose back on it, stuck the hose in fluid, opened the bleeder, pumped the heck out of it, closed the bleeder and called it good for now... still dont know whats goin on.
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