Can sombody please tell me where to test the fuel pressuer on a 95 3.0 4Runner? I have looked and I dont see any pressure ports or valves. Are they hidden somwhere?

Thanks

 

(a) Check that the battery voltage is above 12V.
(b) Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
(f) Install the No.3 fuel pipe and SST (pressure gauge) to
the LH delivery pipe with three new gaskets and SST
(union bolt) as shown in the illustration.
SST 09268–45012
Torque: 34 N–m (350 kgf–cm, 25 ft–lbf)
(g) Wipe off any splattered gasoline.
(h) Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
(c) Place a suitable container or shop towel under the LH
delivery pipe.
(d) Slowly loosen the union bolt of the No.3 fuel pipe and
remove the union bolt and two gaskets from the
delivery pipe.
(e) Drain fuel in the LH delivery pipe.
(i) Using SST, connect terminals FP and +B of the DLC
1.
SST 09843–18020
(j) Turn the ignition switch ON.
(k) Measure the fuel pressure.
Fuel pressure:
265 – 304 kPa (2.7 – 3.1 kgf/cm 2 , 38 – 44 psi)
If pressure is high, replace the fuel pressure regulator.
If pressure is low, check the following parts:
• Fuel hoses and connections
• Fuel pump
• Fuel filter
• Fuel pressure regulator
(I) Remove SST from the DLC 1.
SST 09843–18020
(m) Start the engine.
(r) Stop the engine. Check that the fuel pressure remains
above 147 kPa (1.5 kgf/cm 2 , 21 psi) for 5 minutes
after the engine is turned oft.
If not within specification, check the fuel pump, fuel
pressure regulator and/or injectors.
(s) After checking fuel pressure, disconnect the battery
negative terminal and carefully remove the SST to
prevent gasoline from splashing.
(p) Reconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure
regulator.
(q) Measure the fuel pressure at idling.
Fuel pressure:
226 – 255 kPa (2.3 – 2.6 kgf/cm 2 , 33 – 37 psi)
If not within the specified pressure, check the vacuum
hose and fuel pressure regulator.
(n) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure
regulator and plug it closed.
(o) Measure the fuel pressure at idling.
Fuel pressure:
265 – 304 kPa (2.7 – 3.1 kgf/cm 2 , 38 – 44 psi)
(t) Using two new gaskets, reconnect the No.3 fuel pipe
to the delivery pipe.
Torque: 34 N–m (350 kgf–cm. 25 ft–lbf)
(u) Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
(v) Start the engine and check for fuel leakage.

 

I think what the above post was trying to say is the following:

Tap in to the cold start injector's fuel supply using a banjo adapter that your fuel pressure test kit hopefully has. Basic kits usually don't have this capability, BTW. There are no schrader valves on the fuel lines to tap into.

 

It showed them hooking the tester up to the fitting where the pressure regulator is because its the easiest to access with the intake still on.

 

On my 22RE, I drilled and tapped the steel cap on the end of the fuel rail for 1/8" NPT and soldered in a right angle brass elbow then screwed in a 100psi fuel pressure sender into that and hooked it to a gauge in the cab. Works fine, also added a second pressure sender in my on-board air tank and connected that to the same gauge, via a switch:

 

Anybody got any ideas about my fuel pressure (tested at the LH delivery pipe as FSM says) being 38-40psi with truck on at idle (FSM range: 38-44psi)but then dropping to 0psi within seconds of turning off truck. FSM says the pressure should main above 21psi for at least 5 minutes after turning off truck. I have changed fuel filter, new reman'ed Denso injectors, new pressure regulator, all new crush washers, fuel pulsation damper seems fine, and no apparent fuel leaks. I'm thinking I need to drop my fuel tank (or remove my bed??) and replace my fuel pump?? Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

I'm missing the part where you tell me what the problem is.

 

Not all for this problem I hope? Sounds like a bad check valve. What's the issue, long crank times to start?

 

Read this - http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf