Check Engine Light... I have Had Enough...
Nov 24, 2006 | 08:05 PM
#121
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From: Dover, DE
Here is a good write up: http://www.wattora.com/index.php?page_id=10
Marine parts sotre here I come!!!
(Sunday...)
Nov 29, 2006 | 06:54 AM
#122
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From: Dover, DE
::Update::the o2
Well it's back...
Same Code as before...
I just don't get it though...
Reset or erase the code and it stays away for almost 500 Miles and then comes back?
So i got to price quotes
1) Autozone - $130
2) Stealership - $145
The thing is I read that y'all got the o2 sensor for around $75...
I maybe read over were you got it for that price...
A little steer in the right direction is I guess what I am asking for...
Inspection is due up and I have an appointment for the Runner next week to get inspected...
So I am callin for
At least I am not
myself or 
...
I will let mom take care of that on the next major repair lol...
Thanks Y'all
Same Code as before...
I just don't get it though...
Reset or erase the code and it stays away for almost 500 Miles and then comes back?
So i got to price quotes
1) Autozone - $130
2) Stealership - $145
The thing is I read that y'all got the o2 sensor for around $75...
I maybe read over were you got it for that price...
A little steer in the right direction is I guess what I am asking for...
Inspection is due up and I have an appointment for the Runner next week to get inspected...
So I am callin for
At least I am not
myself or ...I will let mom take care of that on the next major repair lol...
Thanks Y'all
Nov 29, 2006 | 08:19 AM
#123
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From: WA
Nov 29, 2006 | 01:03 PM
#124
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From: Dover, DE
Thats the Code...
(twas on the first page of the thread...)
This is the third time it has come back since 1K ago...
Came back, Reset, Runner was fine for anotehr 500miles
Then it just came back again so I reset It...
Another 500miles later it came back on so...
So I am presuming that it is time to get another O2 Sensor.....
It's wird though...
The frist time the ligth came on I really didn't notice anything...
Then after cleaning the MAF (which actually made the runner run better than before the light even came on) the light caem on for a second time...
And when it did I notcied that the Runner was running a little wierd, like it was starving either for air or oxegen...
And it was puttig the same code out...
P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
So I reset and viola the Runner was running perfectly fine again...
Then I did the deckplate mod...
And after driving about 150 mile after getting that done the light came back with the same code (P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)) and was running a little sluggish again...
So I went to autzone today to clear the code so the Runner could run normally again...
But since inspection is due in December I think it's time to gets replace the sensor...
Nov 29, 2006 | 05:26 PM
#125
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From: WA
It appears you will need to replace the rear 02 sensor (behind the cat), but it could also be pointing to a degraded catalyst. The repair manual said voltage remained avobe .4 but under .5 volts at cruise. Technically, this sensor should see little, maybe .2. As for running, it should have zilch affect on running. All sensor 2's are only to let you know when your catalyst has degraded by 60% or more. A good cat, the voltage will be about .2, while a fully degraded cate, it will toggle between .2 to .8. How many miles do you have?
Nov 29, 2006 | 05:27 PM
#126
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From: Dover, DE
OK, my bad
It appears you will need to replace the rear 02 sensor (behind the cat), but it could also be pointing to a degraded catalyst. The repair manual said voltage remained avobe .4 but under .5 volts at cruise. Technically, this sensor should see little, maybe .2. As for running, it should have zilch affect on running. All sensor 2's are only to let you know when your catalyst has degraded by 60% or more. A good cat, the voltage will be about .2, while a fully degraded cate, it will toggle between .2 to .8. How many miles do you have?
It appears you will need to replace the rear 02 sensor (behind the cat), but it could also be pointing to a degraded catalyst. The repair manual said voltage remained avobe .4 but under .5 volts at cruise. Technically, this sensor should see little, maybe .2. As for running, it should have zilch affect on running. All sensor 2's are only to let you know when your catalyst has degraded by 60% or more. A good cat, the voltage will be about .2, while a fully degraded cate, it will toggle between .2 to .8. How many miles do you have?
How can you tell if a Cat is going bad?
And how can you check the volts?
Nov 29, 2006 | 05:47 PM
#127
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From: WA
With a volt meter. One with a 1 volt scale is ideal. A digital is OK, but make sure it has a bar graph (Flukes has this graph), you need to see the toggling, and with a digital, you will just see a bunch of numbers bouncing all over the place. An analog meter will be easy to see. A degraded cat will make the rear 02 sensor look like the front. As the cat "lights off", and cleans up the exhaust, the voltage drops to almost nothing. You can measure it from the connector, but you might have a port in the engine room diagnostic connector located above your number 2 spark plug. Look for a terminal labeled OX2, hook your red lead into that, other on ground. If you hook it at the connector, use the blue and white wires, the 2 black wires are for the heater circuit.
Nov 29, 2006 | 05:52 PM
#128
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From: Oahu, Hawaii
YF:
http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.p...s_id=430006000
79 each~!
make sure you dont have cali emitions before you buy though.
http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.p...s_id=430006000
79 each~!
make sure you dont have cali emitions before you buy though.
Nov 29, 2006 | 06:42 PM
#129
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From: Dover, DE
With a volt meter. One with a 1 volt scale is ideal. A digital is OK, but make sure it has a bar graph (Flukes has this graph), you need to see the toggling, and with a digital, you will just see a bunch of numbers bouncing all over the place. An analog meter will be easy to see. A degraded cat will make the rear 02 sensor look like the front. As the cat "lights off", and cleans up the exhaust, the voltage drops to almost nothing. You can measure it from the connector, but you might have a port in the engine room diagnostic connector located above your number 2 spark plug. Look for a terminal labeled OX2, hook your red lead into that, other on ground. If you hook it at the connector, use the blue and white wires, the 2 black wires are for the heater circuit.
Phew...
I really hope it is just the o2 sensor though...
I need this thing to pass next month and I don't have the money for a new cat...
Maybe I can convince work to work me 40+ hours a week and get a whole new exhaust...
That would be nice...
YF:
http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.p...s_id=430006000
79 each~!
make sure you dont have cali emitions before you buy though.
http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.p...s_id=430006000
79 each~!
make sure you dont have cali emitions before you buy though.
And the 4Runner Was bought in Northern Jersey, only one cat...
You can also tell from the rust...
Dec 1, 2006 | 05:55 PM
#130
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From: Dover, DE
Will this work to test the volts?
I haven't ordered teh o2 Sensor casue I want to spend the money in the right place...
::update::
The light comes on every 25-50 miles now...
BEen resetting the computer alot to get it to go away...
Dec 1, 2006 | 06:19 PM
#131
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From: Montreal, QC Canada
With a volt meter. One with a 1 volt scale is ideal. A digital is OK, but make sure it has a bar graph (Flukes has this graph), you need to see the toggling, and with a digital, you will just see a bunch of numbers bouncing all over the place. An analog meter will be easy to see. A degraded cat will make the rear 02 sensor look like the front. As the cat "lights off", and cleans up the exhaust, the voltage drops to almost nothing. You can measure it from the connector, but you might have a port in the engine room diagnostic connector located above your number 2 spark plug. Look for a terminal labeled OX2, hook your red lead into that, other on ground. If you hook it at the connector, use the blue and white wires, the 2 black wires are for the heater circuit.
I'd suggest either buying the tools for O2 sensor graphing or take it to a shop that can read it on their scanner and let to have a look at it as well. At least that should narrow it down as to what it might be.
You can see how useful the Auterra is (even has info on rear O2 diagnosis):
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles...r_Review.shtml
You can see how the front and rear outputs look similar....not good....the rear should be almost a flat line.
Last edited by MTL_4runner; Dec 1, 2006 at 06:27 PM.
Dec 1, 2006 | 06:30 PM
#133
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From: Montreal, QC Canada
Dec 1, 2006 | 06:59 PM
#134
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From: Dover, DE
Money is so tight I don't know where to even consider lookin anymore...
One day I will have the Laptop set up (drools...)
But for now everythign gets doen the good ol' fashion way...
Dec 1, 2006 | 07:05 PM
#135
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From: WA
Dont let them scare ya, you can do just fine with a voltmeter. We have been checking O2 sensors with voltmeters for years. A higher quality one would be the ticket. It would be nice to have a 0-1 volt scale, but an analog is easy to watch the needle toggle baqck and forth. And sensor 2 (after the cat) shouldnt toggle once the engine is warmed. It will at first, then drop of to nothing more than a flat line with a little wiggle in it. Fluke meters had the bar graph which makes looking at the sweep super easy. Just a digital only is pretty tough to read, its just a bunch of jumbled numbers. I use a Fluke 88 (given to me by Toyota) and a Fluke 87 which I bought, but a Fluke 77 or a 23 would do it. Check ebay, good source. Type in Fluke Meter. With the EFI rigs, you might as well get one now. It will last you for years to come
Last edited by toyota_mdt_tech; Dec 2, 2006 at 08:55 AM.
Dec 1, 2006 | 07:08 PM
#136
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From: Dover, DE
Dont let them scare ya, you can do just fine with a voltmeter. We have been checking O2 sensors with voltmeters for years. A higher quality one would be the ticket. It would be nice to have a 0-1 volt scale, but an analog is easy to watch the needle toggle baqck and forth. And sensor 2 (after the cat) shouldnt toggle once the engine is warmed. It will at first, then drop of to nothing more than a flat line with a little wiggle in it. Fluke meters had the bar graph which makes looking at the sweep super easy. Just a digital only is pretty tough to read, its just a bunch of jumbled numbers. I use a Fluke 87 (given to my by Toyota) and a Fluke 88 which I bought, but a Flue 77 or a 23 would do it. Check ebay, good source. Type in Fluke Meter. With the EFI rigs, you might as well get one now. It will last you for years to come
I just hope ther not that much...
I was hopin just to run by the store and pic up taht metere in the post above and get soem reading...
So I can get the problem fixed and get teh car throguh inspection and then not have to worry about that or another CEL light for a year...
Dec 2, 2006 | 08:44 AM
#138
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From: Montreal, QC Canada
I do agree you can probably see the sine wave on the analog meter alot better than any digital meter because all you'll see is it scrolling through numbers on a digital meter. Although for $75 I'd rather spend a bit more and get a throw away laptop (all you need is windows and a serial port) and a BR-3 for about another $50. I'm not knocking Fluke meters by any means (I have one as well and they are the best DMM's out there), but as a former tech, an OBD scanner is FAR more useful IMHO for the money (a $10 DMM will do most people just fine).
Last edited by MTL_4runner; Dec 2, 2006 at 02:09 PM.
Dec 13, 2006 | 12:14 AM
#139
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
Can anyone help me out to find out all the possibilities on how to fix my P0304 code...I've had it for about 3 months and its driving me crazy! It is a 2003 Tacoma Prerunner V6 supercharged with an SMT 5 chip...I have already replaced the MAF sensor, spark plugs are changed (toyota stock ones), plug wires changed back to stock from the blue ngk wires...and coil packs show they are all functioning, I am running out of ideas...please HELP!! Thank you!
Feb 27, 2007 | 08:42 PM
#140
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From: Southeastern Mass.
Hey YotaFun...
Did replacing your 02 sensor get rid of the code permanantly for you?
My rig threw a p0136 CEL tonight and I need to start trying to figure it out but it's freakin snowing out now, so I can't really go out and do anything at the moment.
Did replacing your 02 sensor get rid of the code permanantly for you?
My rig threw a p0136 CEL tonight and I need to start trying to figure it out but it's freakin snowing out now, so I can't really go out and do anything at the moment.
