Brembo
10-08-2015, 05:22 AM
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I had the same thing to happen to me on my 3rd gen runner. A friend of mine worked at Oriellys and I don't know which brand of rotors he had me to get but I did go with ceramic pads.
I don't know if ceramic pads are compatible with your Brembo disc so I would ask someone more knowledgeable on that. Unless doing the Tundra upgrade, the rotors and ceramic pads solved my wobble problem a couple of years ago and so glad I did it.
For the cost of pads, I would suggest replacing them new when doing the rotors and that way they break in together.
I don't know if ceramic pads are compatible with your Brembo disc so I would ask someone more knowledgeable on that. Unless doing the Tundra upgrade, the rotors and ceramic pads solved my wobble problem a couple of years ago and so glad I did it.
For the cost of pads, I would suggest replacing them new when doing the rotors and that way they break in together.
10-08-2015, 05:25 AM
#3
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The regular-size Brembo rotors (made in China) I purchased from Tire Rack years ago were no better than the undersized stock Toyota rotors.
If your rear brakes are not adjusted correctly, your new rotors will likely warp fairly soon.
I installed 231mm Tundra front brakes two or three years ago (all Toyota parts) - no issues since.
Andreas
If your rear brakes are not adjusted correctly, your new rotors will likely warp fairly soon.
I installed 231mm Tundra front brakes two or three years ago (all Toyota parts) - no issues since.
Andreas
10-08-2015, 08:08 AM
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I had the same thing to happen to me on my 3rd gen runner. A friend of mine worked at Oriellys and I don't know which brand of rotors he had me to get but I did go with ceramic pads.
I don't know if ceramic pads are compatible with your Brembo disc so I would ask someone more knowledgeable on that. Unless doing the Tundra upgrade, the rotors and ceramic pads solved my wobble problem a couple of years ago and so glad I did it.
For the cost of pads, I would suggest replacing them new when doing the rotors and that way they break in together.
I don't know if ceramic pads are compatible with your Brembo disc so I would ask someone more knowledgeable on that. Unless doing the Tundra upgrade, the rotors and ceramic pads solved my wobble problem a couple of years ago and so glad I did it.
For the cost of pads, I would suggest replacing them new when doing the rotors and that way they break in together.
10-08-2015, 08:09 AM
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The regular-size Brembo rotors (made in China) I purchased from Tire Rack years ago were no better than the undersized stock Toyota rotors.
If your rear brakes are not adjusted correctly, your new rotors will likely warp fairly soon.
I installed 231mm Tundra front brakes two or three years ago (all Toyota parts) - no issues since.
Andreas
If your rear brakes are not adjusted correctly, your new rotors will likely warp fairly soon.
I installed 231mm Tundra front brakes two or three years ago (all Toyota parts) - no issues since.
Andreas
10-08-2015, 08:22 AM
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The handbrake is cable operated and is adjusted via a nut under the handbrake lever. If your lever pulls up high, you need to adjust the mechanism at each backing plate first. The wheel cylinders (hydraulic) only have so much travel. If the adjuster is not looked after, the rear brakes become fairly useless.
Andreas
10-08-2015, 08:24 AM
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Each backing plate has an oval-shaped plug above the axle housing. These plugs cover the access hole for the rear brake adjuster 'star wheels'. As the rear shoes wear, the brakes must be kept in adjustment, or else they end up not contributing to the braking effort.
The handbrake is cable operated and is adjusted via a nut under the handbrake lever. If your lever pulls up high, you need to adjust the mechanism at each backing plate first. The wheel cylinders (hydraulic) only have so much travel. If the adjuster is not looked after, the rear brakes become fairly useless.
Andreas
The handbrake is cable operated and is adjusted via a nut under the handbrake lever. If your lever pulls up high, you need to adjust the mechanism at each backing plate first. The wheel cylinders (hydraulic) only have so much travel. If the adjuster is not looked after, the rear brakes become fairly useless.
Andreas
Thanks for the info, another thing to add to the list!
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10-08-2015, 05:12 PM
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10-08-2015, 05:20 PM
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10-13-2015, 04:59 AM
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So happy to report no more death wobble!!! I'll have to keep an eye out for warping, but very happy with my car ride to work this morning.
However I also adjusted the rear brakes, and read you need to get the shoes to where they barely let the drum on and then you dial it back about 7 clicks worth.well when I took off the drums they were already tight. So I adjusted it just a little more so they did not fit, and dialed it back about 4-5 clicks worth. And now my ebrake goes higher then before. Do I need to tighten the shoes? Or can I just adjust the cable on the ebrake?
However I also adjusted the rear brakes, and read you need to get the shoes to where they barely let the drum on and then you dial it back about 7 clicks worth.well when I took off the drums they were already tight. So I adjusted it just a little more so they did not fit, and dialed it back about 4-5 clicks worth. And now my ebrake goes higher then before. Do I need to tighten the shoes? Or can I just adjust the cable on the ebrake?
10-13-2015, 05:16 AM
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The drums develop a lip as they wear - that's why it can be difficult to reinstall them.
The handbrake adjustment is secondary to properly adjusting the rear brakes. Relying on a specific number of clicks is far too nebulous for me. I adjust my rears every few months - truck on four stands, wheels on and transmission in neutral. I spin the tire by hand and dial in one click at a time until I feel actual drag. Done. A different amount of adjustment for each wheel, each time.
I've done it this way since buying the truck new and the brakes work great.
Andreas
The handbrake adjustment is secondary to properly adjusting the rear brakes. Relying on a specific number of clicks is far too nebulous for me. I adjust my rears every few months - truck on four stands, wheels on and transmission in neutral. I spin the tire by hand and dial in one click at a time until I feel actual drag. Done. A different amount of adjustment for each wheel, each time.
I've done it this way since buying the truck new and the brakes work great.
Andreas
10-13-2015, 06:28 AM
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The drums develop a lip as they wear - that's why it can be difficult to reinstall them.
The handbrake adjustment is secondary to properly adjusting the rear brakes. Relying on a specific number of clicks is far too nebulous for me. I adjust my rears every few months - truck on four stands, wheels on and transmission in neutral. I spin the tire by hand and dial in one click at a time until I feel actual drag. Done. A different amount of adjustment for each wheel, each time.
I've done it this way since buying the truck new and the brakes work great.
Andreas
The handbrake adjustment is secondary to properly adjusting the rear brakes. Relying on a specific number of clicks is far too nebulous for me. I adjust my rears every few months - truck on four stands, wheels on and transmission in neutral. I spin the tire by hand and dial in one click at a time until I feel actual drag. Done. A different amount of adjustment for each wheel, each time.
I've done it this way since buying the truck new and the brakes work great.
Andreas
Thanks bro, I just don't have the time or equipment for your level of brake dedication.
Anyone use the rubber gromet in back of the drum to adjust it? Is it possible? Looks pretty tight back there, any tips?
10-13-2015, 06:30 AM
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10-13-2015, 06:39 AM
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The drums develop a lip as they wear - that's why it can be difficult to reinstall them.
The handbrake adjustment is secondary to properly adjusting the rear brakes. Relying on a specific number of clicks is far too nebulous for me. I adjust my rears every few months - truck on four stands, wheels on and transmission in neutral. I spin the tire by hand and dial in one click at a time until I feel actual drag. Done. A different amount of adjustment for each wheel, each time.
I've done it this way since buying the truck new and the brakes work great.
Andreas
The handbrake adjustment is secondary to properly adjusting the rear brakes. Relying on a specific number of clicks is far too nebulous for me. I adjust my rears every few months - truck on four stands, wheels on and transmission in neutral. I spin the tire by hand and dial in one click at a time until I feel actual drag. Done. A different amount of adjustment for each wheel, each time.
I've done it this way since buying the truck new and the brakes work great.
Andreas
I thought u meant take the wheel off, I don't have jack stands yet though. Just a flat head screw driver to adjust right?
10-13-2015, 07:26 AM
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Truck on four stands, wheels on and transmission in neutral. I spin the tire by hand and dial in one click at a time until I feel actual drag. Done. A different amount of adjustment for each wheel, each time.
Andreas
Last edited by aowRS; 10-13-2015 at 07:29 AM.
10-13-2015, 08:12 AM
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10-15-2015, 06:14 AM
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The drum brake components are all in good working order - I'm the only person who's maintained the truck since new.
I don't mind checking and adjusting the rears manually a few times a year.
Andreas
10-15-2015, 06:41 AM
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I definitely use them now, just moved into a new house with a very steep driveway, so I alway make sure it's in gear as well as use my hand break. I tried to adjust it yesterday. Using Andreas's suggestion, but it still needs to be adjusted more, still get up to 9 clicks on my handbrake before it holds. With 8 clicks the car starts to lung forward slowly.
