So Steve, a little confusion - isn't the Green Tokico shock (the one Goin and me and many others are using) the same one you used to sell in your kits? Would it be more correct to say it is a problem with the thickness of the top-out spacer and not shock length in this situation that is causing failure?

EDIT: After reading the FAQ on Steve's site, what I gather is that the Toytec 3/4" spacer placed outside of the coil pack is basically increasing the shock length - and thus pushing you into the "breakage zone" of the CV. So ulitmately he is correct when he says it's a shock length issue - my misunderstanding.

What i find interesting that one 3/8" spacer (previously sold in Steve's kits) seems safe(er) but if you add another 3/8" - you're not safe. As he states on his site, "front shock length is critical". I guess 3/8" difference IS pretty critical!

John

 

Thanks John.... After reading the thread I'm gonna try the hose clamp replacement. Is there one thats recommended, and where exactly do I place it? (Replace the stock one that's to the left of the grease, or put one where the grease is coming out?)

 

[QUOTE=sschaefer3;50829449]As long as you stay on the road, you will not have any problems. If your front shock is too long and it is a very small bit longer that will do it, the CV's will bind and rip the cage out. You did not brake an axle you ripped the cage out from binding. This will only happen if you really go off-road and flex the truck out. With a front shock that is too long.
QUOTE]

Steve -
Would you share what length of droop is acceptable from a standard point on a 2001 4runner. Essentially, I would like to determine if I am in the cage rip zone with the topplate spacer removed. Thanks.

 

Not sure he will provide that info but this should help - from his site... You can see comparable fron shock lengths...

http://sonoransteel.com/rear_shocks.html

John

 

Do I have the wrong shocks? In the link John posted above, Steve lists travel info for Trekmasters 3536. I have 3535 which I thought was for 4wd 4runners.

Edit
Whew, Nevermind 3536 are the rears

 

yup

 

I believe it's a misprint on his site. Tokico part numbers: GU3535 = Front and the GE3536 = Rear.

John

 

So when you install a spacer the shock is then attached to the spacer? Thus lowering the top of the shock? Thus increasing the amount of downward travel?

Or does the top of the shock still mount to the stock location with the spacer installed?

 

The toytec spacer I have is advertised 3/4" but actually measures exactly 1/2". The 3/4" is the gained lift with the utilization of the spacer. Chalk that up to geometry I guess!

Have a great week!

 

That makes sense. I didn't think it was a full 3/4" thick.

Here are some pics of the 2nd CV break.




As you can see the second break occured on the inner joint (closer to the diff). Do you think this is a case where the cage was ripped out (see previous posts) or is this an official broken axle? After seeing these pics do you still think it is a case where the break was caused by the spacers/excessive droop?

I went out for some easy wheeling today and no issues with the spacers still installed.

 

so is it plausable to use a stock lenght shockwith the top out spacer to limit the travel for a DD that only goes offroad about everyother weekend?

 

does the "top out spacer" means , the spacer is not sandwiched between the strut's top plate and the coil?

 

The Trekmasters I am using are stock length. I have not had any problems on road. Easy wheeling (rough fireroads) is no problem. It is the tougher obsticals that have broke both of my CVs. Both times I was going up steep inclines with the fron wheels on the top and the rear wheels partially up the incline.

Correct - it is placed on top of the top plate using extended studs to attach it to the mount on the frame.

 

really!!! so the longer spring are pushing the shocks to the max and ripping out the cage.. so limilt straps are in order i guess.. any one know what the minimum tinsle strength we need to limit stock shocks with lift springs?? if i had to guess prolly 500lbs would be enough huh?

 

Not really – as I understand it – the top spacer is “effectively” lengthening droop of your shock – which in turn allows the axle to drop farther which creates a greater angle on the cv – which then puts it at a “critical” range of failure. The Toyota engineers knew this and made the stock shock length what it was so as to not have this issue. When we go and throw in a spacer – we change the geometry and we’re pushing the limits of the original design. What that magic number is I’m not sure but I can only hope/rely on others that have tested thoroughly and they seem to suggest that a 3/8” spacer is still on the “safer” side and anything over that is not.

So a limiting strap or smaller spacer (or no spacer) is the answer.
John

 

Good Post Mojo!

Any further thoughts on these 2 different styles of breaks. First CV broke at the outer joint and obviously ripped out of the cage.




Below are some pics of the 2nd CV break.




As you can see the second break occured on the inner joint (closer to the diff). Do you think this is a case where the cage was ripped out (see previous posts) or is this an official broken axle? After seeing these pics do you still think it is a case where the break was caused by the spacers/excessive droop?

 

Sorry, I don't have any more insight on your breakage. I'm really just regurgitating information I've gleaned from this forum over the past several years of lifting my truck. I only pretend to understand it all

I do know that Revtek (one of the 1st to offer a spacer lift for 3RD gen 4Runners - I know I had it about 7 years ago on my truck) offered (and still offers) a 3/8" topout spacer - no more no less. Sonoran Steel - a well researched guy - used to offer the 3/8" topout spacer with his kit. To me, that seems like the tested limit. If the Toytec version is indeed 1/2" i guess that's 3/8" too much. I'm surprised such a small measurement makes such a big difference.

John