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Thanks guys.....i ordered the new improved glide part and the screw in cap.
Installation was effortless.....just have to drive it and readjust until the wheel play is gone.
sharrack,
Thank you, for posting this thread. Even with low miles, (114K) my rack and pinion does the same on real rocky roads. No play or problems on roads that most end users drive on. But, I like most on this forum demand more and use the off-road capability more than the normal consumer! Now I will have to research how to do the job of making this repair, or quit driving off-road, and that’s not going to happen! Vance.
Thanks for refreshing this thread. I have a little play in the front end and am about to do my tie rods. At this price and with how simple the replacement is, I might as well add this to list. At 21 years and 260,000 miles, I'm sure it needs it.
#35010 does fit the 99 4Runner and is the original style roller guide. Personally I would NOT replace the roller guide with another roller guide. IF you were to order a complete rack #44250-35042 for the 99 4Runner from Toyota it would come with a solid guide. At least mine did.....all the 3rd gens now have the same part number for the entire rack.
#35031 is the solid guide they switched to in the later 3rd gen. It will fit the 99 4Runner's rack with the addition of part #45524-37010 which is the corresponding cap for the solid guide.
You can re-use the spring and nut out of your rack. EB Toyota is showing the spring as still available from them online.
Yes, you are ordering the 'wrong' parts. That's what you want to do because you're trying to replace the roller guide with a solid one and why you have to buy the cap too. Tell them you have an '02 4Runner, get both cap and guide, the parts person will be happy and you'll have what you need.
EB Toyota online shows all 4 parts I listed as being still available though you really don't have to buy the spring and nut.
I found this awesome illustration of the two different styles together that shows caps and guides:
Really, this job is 1 out of 10 on a scale of difficulty. Like an oil change. But it's like one of those oil changes where the last person screwed the oil filter on so tight you spend an hour just trying get it off. I looked at Yukon's thread, and it seems like he has more space between his sway bar and steering rack. It was impossible for me to get anything in the new cap socket completely, so I had to wedge something in half-way and work the cap in slowly, with a lot of aggravation. If I could have used the old cap I would have, as the large nut is easier to work than the recessed socket on the new cap. But the guide and cap are different on the new setup, and not interchangeable with the old parts.
Can anyone tell me what the nut is for? The washer-like thing that threads onto the cap?
Anyway, it's done. I needed a couple test drives to get it just right. At first it was too tight, then slightly too tight, now it seems good, though I'll drive farther tomorrow to really test it.
For the record, the 5/8" coupler my local Ace hardware carried would not fit the new cap socket. Even if it had, I wouldn't have been able to get it and a socket into that space. What worked for me was a 1/2" to 3/4" socket wrench adaptor. It wasn't perfect, but it fit tight enough to get the cap bottomed out. The original cap is 30mm, in case you have enough room between your steering rack and sway bar to fit a socket.
Would someone post a link to a write up or YouTube video, that shows what cover and the steps to change out the right steering parts? Is it under the cover in front or behind on the steering rack, that you remove? I would like to do this job soon! Vance.
Weather just turned to winter here so I'm not feeling up to climbing under my truck for photos, but it's on the rear of the steering rack. One of the links in this thread has photos. You'll see it, though it's possibly covered in grime.
08-13-2018, 06:59 PM
