jwmckin

Hey guys,

Newbie to the forum here and it looks like it will be a wealth of information from what I can see so far and I look forward to participating. I have tried searching the forums for my question and see some info but can't seem to piece it all together.

I have a 2002 4Runner SR5 and a couple of years ago the dealer provided keyless entry fobs stopped working during an exceptionally cold winter. I have tried replacing the batteries and that originally worked for a short time only later to have died again. I tried purchasing a keyfob from ebay to replace and program it myself from instructions I have found here and other sites with no luck and I am hoping someone here can help shed some light on this for me.

The FCC ID on the keyfobs I have are HYQ1512Y.

1) How do I know that is the correct keyfob? I assume it is correct since that is the same as the original that used to work.

I do not believe I have the factory or dealer installed alarm system (I think it's something like RS3000 / RS3200 / RS3300) but

2) How do I tell? Where is the ECU located if I do? (is it under the driver's seat?...I have nothing there)

3) Assuming I do not have the alarm system....where is the ECU for the keyless entry? (I think it is either under driver's side dash or in the rear hatch) and can I tell anything by looking at it? Is it possible that the ECU could have gone bad? How could I tell?

The only key I have is the silver metallic key as I lost the original key with the black plastic end some time ago. I do not believe the 2002 model requires a transponder key because I can start the engine and unlock the doors and rear hatch just fine with the metal only key but I cannot lock/unlock the glove compartment with this key (weird but I think I need the transponder key for that...am I right?)

4) Do I need the transponder key in order to program the keyless entry fobs or will any key work? My guess is no since I seem to be able to get the vehicle into programming mode but cannot get my keyfobs to program after trying dozens of times. How can I tell if the keyfob is actually transmitting?

5) What does the transponder key really do and why would I want one? (other than to be able to lock the glove compartment?)

Sorry for the laundry list of questions here but this is a mystery that I would really like to solve without having to go to the dealership and wasting way more money than I have to. This seems like it should be a relatively easy fix for those in the know.

Thanks in advance for any help on the above!

bobzworld

I have an 02 sport and I have the same fcc ID.

bobzworld

just last week the battery slowly died and my FOB stopped working. I bought a new battery and installed but the FOB didnt work. I tried a different battery and it didnt work either! I thought the FOB was dead but I reprogrammed it to the truck and it started working again.

Pretty wierd, i guess they loose their memory if the battery completely dies and you have to reprogram it to the truck.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Several threads on here for reprogramming 3rd gen key fobs.

:wabbit2:

bobzworld

i used these instructions and they worked beautifully. Make sure you read them carefully and do exactly as it says. I missed a step and it wouldnt program.

1. Start with key out of ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and
drivers door is unlocked.

2. Insert key into the ignition (Do NOT Turn) and Pull key out.

3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles
starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second.
(1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
B. Close, then open drivers door.

4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles
starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second.
(1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
B. Insert the key in the ignition cylinder.
C. Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF once to program remote
while retaining the orginal remote codes. Twice to erase all orginal codes and
add new remote. Three times to check how many remotes are programmed or
five times to erase all original codes.
D. Remove the key from the ignition.

5. Within 3 seconds the power door locks should cycle automatically indicating successful
entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.

6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1 second.
B. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, press the lock button by
itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle once
indicating successful programming. If the door locks do not cycle, or cycle twice.
repeat steps A and B in step 6 as your remote has not been accepted.
C. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.

7. Close drivers door.

PLATNUIM808

I also have a 2002 i want to know if there is any lock cilinders like solex out there to replace the stock door locks?? Please help!! Car keys got stolen

jwmckin

Thanks for the replies everyone. Just to update you...

1. I've tried 3 different key fobs with FCC ID HYQ1512Y and new batteries with no luck
2. I've followed the programming procees to the letter and have been able to erase all pre-existing codes by turning key on/off 5 times after all of the other lock cycling, etc.
3. I was able to locate the official Toyota documentation on this and verified that the programming process is correct.
4. I think I've verified that I don't have the RS3000 or RS3200 system. I still dont know where the ECM is but think it may be the silver box mounted vertically behind the fuse panel on the drivers side.

Does anyone know of a way to verify the key fob is transmitting a signal? I find it hard to believe all 3 are bad but can't verify.

I don't think it is a problem with the ECM because I can get it into program mode (locks cycle after following the process as described in instructions) but can't get it to register my fobs. Am I wrong about this?

What else could it be?

This is driving me NUTs and I refuse to let it beat me!...haha

Thanks again for any helps

jwmckin

So today I figured out that AutoZone has a way to test the RF signal strength of the keyfobs so I went in with all three of my fobs equipped with new batteries and tried them. Lo and behold only one of them was transmitting a strong signal (one was spotty strong one time and weak the next and the other was just weak). I took the strong one out in the parking lot and tried the programming process and BOOM! it worked on the first try. I feel so accomplished now after this has driven me crazy for way too long...haha

Now to figure out to do with the other keyfobs.....

dallison

This worked like a freaking charm. Thanks!

larrylou

Old post but very helpful! Tried this today and it worked perfectly with a new OEM fob I just received. The tips on the number of ignition on/off cycles for different programming scenarios is really important. Thanks!

TheDurk

I found both my original fobs had the battery spring keepers lose tension over time. If you leave the battery out, and carefully bend the spring to increase tension on the battery, you may find your original fobs work just fine.

Late for the OP, but may help someone else.

Jomoka

When I bought my '99 there were no fobs included. Later on I got one (it's the same FCC id as above, and while I was certainly able to get it into programming mode, it would never accept a new fob. Until after a few tries I found a version of the instructions as above - most notably step 4C. Where you have the option to clear all existing fobs. After clearing I was able to add the new fob. I think they only store 5 fobs (???) and perhaps mine was 'full'.