95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

96 runner stalling

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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 04:43 PM
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96 runner stalling

Got a problem that just started. After driving my 96 runner (110K on the odometer) if I turn the car off and then try to restart it it will stall atleast 2 times before the engine will stay on. Like I said it has only done this after I drive the car then shut it off and then try to restart it. By the third or fourth time trying to start it, it will finally kick over. Origonal battery was just replaced but everything else is origonal.

Thanks
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 04:45 PM
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Have you gone to Autozone to see if they can pull a code?

Could be a plethora of things...

bad coil pack, wire, plug(s), loose wire, sensor...

Is the batter bolted in? Who installed the cable clamps? It could be a loose cable on the batt.
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 05:19 AM
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It sounds like either fuel or electrical related but as Christian said that could be tons of stuff. You will need to go through it thoroughly to find the cause and start by doing all the basic maintenance new plugs (OEM only!), air filter, fuel filter, clean the throttle body and run a can of techtron injector cleaner. Then see if that helps at all. If not you need to go through the system checking the electrical parts and testing the fuel system according to the factory service manual.
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 09:15 AM
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Plugs were changed at 90K (Denso) as was the air filter. I also ran a can of injector cleaner, the one they sell at Toyota at that time and cleaned the TB. The fuel filter was changed at 60K.

Could this be a starter issue, maybe be going out due to its age?
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 11:03 AM
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Are the battery clamps tight on the posts?
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mark_simon
Plugs were changed at 90K (Denso) as was the air filter. I also ran a can of injector cleaner, the one they sell at Toyota at that time and cleaned the TB. The fuel filter was changed at 60K.

Could this be a starter issue, maybe be going out due to its age?

Wait.......what exactly do you mean by hard to start?
Is the engine not even turing over?

If so then look at battery, alternator and starter as possible suspects.
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 08:49 PM
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It will crank, but wont start and if it starts it will stall unless I give it some gas. I checked the battery cables and they seem tight.
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Old Aug 6, 2004 | 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by mark_simon
It will crank, but wont start and if it starts it will stall unless I give it some gas. I checked the battery cables and they seem tight.

Ok thanks for clarifying that........my guess now would be a leaky injector seeing as you need to give it gas (actually when you step on the gas you are giving it more air and if the fuel is puddled in the intake then it would be tough to start otherwise).

Is it tough to start immediately after turning it off? if not how soon after?
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Old Aug 6, 2004 | 07:25 AM
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I had a similar problem on my Acura - it was a warm-start problem. Cold-starts were fine but if the car was shut off and immediately re-started, many times it would not until it cooled down. I thought it was a problem with the fuel delivery, but it was not. Acura put out a TSB for an ignition switch of some sort. Just an idea to point you in the right direction. It affected 99+ Acura TLs if you are going to look into it for specifics, may be a similar problem.

good luck
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Old Aug 6, 2004 | 07:27 AM
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yes, its only immediately after I shut it off. In the morning and when I start it to go home from work no problem. And by immediately I mean within a couple of minutes. Is there a way I can verify the leaky injector and whats the remedy, new ones?
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Old Aug 6, 2004 | 02:43 PM
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From: Montreal, QC Canada
Originally Posted by mark_simon
yes, its only immediately after I shut it off. In the morning and when I start it to go home from work no problem. And by immediately I mean within a couple of minutes. Is there a way I can verify the leaky injector and whats the remedy, new ones?
A leaky injector can usually be found by checking the fuel rail pressure while running and then turning the engine off and checking how fast it drops after you turn the engine off. The rail should hold pressure for quite a while after that (ie you shouldn't lose more than a few psi in say 10 minutes.....if you do then there is likely a leaky injector).

Does the engine start fine if you warm it up, then turn it off, and within a few seconds, turn it back on?
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