BigBallsMcFalls

you may find the starter welded 'stuck on' in some remote area, then an expensive tow

I wouldn't venture anywhere with old sparky. it is intermittent then bam, 100% dead or locked in place arc welded itself, and melting/fire causing

rare but it can happen.

make a road kit bring with you:

be ready with a wrench for the battery terminals
if you go anywhere in case of emergency need to disconnect battery

and a hammer and long socket extension to bash on the starter and make it work if it fails

gptoy

Thanks McFalls, looks like the Runner's staying home.

k_southman

I think you are fine. I had the same problem last year. I just brought along a short piece of pipe and a hammer. If the starter will not work, just give it a tap and it will be OK. Mine always started after the tap.

spex

I just wanted to extend my thanks for your awesome write-up and all suggestions! I've succesfully replaced my contacts, fires right up, kinda smoother now as well. Anyhow, it only cost me a total of $23.75 and a little under 2 hours, and a good amount of cuts and scrapes, but well worth it.
Thanks again, I sure did save a lot of money...

hurricanes99

my starter took its last breath today...

I have been having the click thing for about 3 or 4 weeks and havn't had time to deal with it. This mourning I go to crank it and it stumbles as I start it up (started...died..and then fired). When doing so it started making this horrible sound. I turned the ignition off but the motor continued to run, but started making even a worse sound than before. I then turned the key back on and backed out of the garage. At this point I am starting to freak out a little because I smell burning. I decide to drive it to a shop about 2 miles down the road. When I get there I hustle in and tell them whats happening and they run out with a wrench to disconnect the battery, but it dies on its own....

Mechanic said it was hung up and would probably need to be replaced. Anybody else ever have something like this to happen? This is really the first problem I have ever had with the 4runner. Its a 99 limited with 115K.

BigBallsMcFalls

yeah it happens in one of every 40 starters that start to click, and are ignored. your plunger got an arc going and welded itself to the contacts. a big rap with a hammer could free it up but that copper is vaporizing rapidly now...

starter contacts simply wear down around 115k-140k it is not a problem, just something that happens when you keep a vehicle for a long time

Djlarroc

Great writeup! I need to replace the contacts as well.. Planning on starting tonight and getting the parts tomorrow.

Question, is it necessary to remove the pass side wheel? Or does it make it just that much easier that it's worth the extra time?

I'm only planning on pulling the starter out enough to replace the contacts.

Thanks,

marcnlori

Guy

Do yourself a favor, These bolts are much easier accessed with ball swivel impact sockets or a ball swivel adapter. those old fashion swivels like shown in the pictures are a nightmare.

These ball swivel impact sockets and adapters are in expensive and available on e-bay or Harbor Freight and will pay for themselfs in no time

Djlarroc

Yeah, luckily I bought a set a few mos ago at Harbor Freight - just because.

I haven't used them yet, but will try 'em out on this project. Hope things go well.

Djlarroc

Called around for replacement contacts. Found somewhere that sold them for $10 but were closing til Mon. So I went to the STEALERship and handed over $24.16 for part #s 28226-54340 & 28226-72010 - "Starter repair kit".

Anyways, I hit the bolts w/PB blaster and off I went.

My steps. 2000 4Runner Auto

1. Removed skid plate to place jackstands under truck. Not necessary if you place jackstands under frame by pass door. Oh well.

2. Removed tire.

3. Used extensions and 14mm socket to loosen bolts. A swivel socket joint will save your a$$. Wasn't too bad, just be careful you don't strip the bolt. Go slowly.

4. Got the starter bolts loose but didn't remove them yet. Pull the plastic piece of the connector, then unscrew the connector from the starter.

5. Move the starter around a bit, and pull the little clip off. It was a pain till I used some needle nose pliers. Clamped on the plastic piece, then it came out easy.

6. Loosen the ATF dipstick. There is one bolt holding it and it's easy to remove. Gives you a lil more room to move the starter around.

7. I unhooked 1 power steering line and drained the fluid.

8. Bend the line down as much as you can but be careful you don't break the line. I was able to tuck it under the other skid.

9. How I pulled the starter. First I disconnected the + terminal from the battery. I was messing with the starter for a while, then spun the starter around so it's facing the other direction, then aimed it down. That was the only way I could get it out. It went back in that way pretty easy.

Here's some pics:

Tools


Parts


Starter


Bolts to open solenoid (8MM)


Dirty innards


Dirty plunger


Brush I used to clean plunger


Dirty contacts


1 dirty, 1 clean


I broke this plastic tip from tightening too much. Be careful


New contacts


Old contacts


Power steering line I disconnected



The sway bar makes it tough to get out. If you can remove it, I'd do the passenger side. I tried to but stripped a bolt forcing me to tetris the starter out.

Truck starts w/no problems now!

cbodom

this is a great thread but im having problems

2000 4Runner Auto LTD...
i got the 2 starter bolts loose from the bottom with 14mm breaker bar...
are they supposed to pull out? mine are stuck in still







1. 12mm to remove the brake line?
2. 12mm to remove the atf?
3. some stupid metal bracket is right in front of starter, making it real hard for me to slide up to even begin the tetris...

help me please, there is no stinking room in this giant car.....

BigBallsMcFalls

take 1 the brake line bracket, unbolt it 12mm, and bend and yank it over the rail toward you,
that gives room to tetris the starter downward toward the steering underneath
the metal brake lines are coiled up to allow you to do this without damage

don't worry about 2 the dipstick but if you can separate it, it helps

3 is not in the way, wathcatalkinabout ? when you bend the brake line forward
it'll be fine.

yes the 2 14mm starter bolts should both come out straight toward the back.



you should have cuts on your arms [like you been sorting bobcats] when done

cbodom

thank you bigballs

took way too long and not worth saving the money for me.. but was a great learning experience





-breaker bar thru side wall for 14mm top bolt
-breaker bar thru bottom for 14mm bottom bolt
-12mm brake line @#$#$ spot for a bolt
-12mm atf from top

-move brake line over rail
-pull starter toward front of car, then tetris out per pictures...

96RedRunner

Finally after 274k miles I get to work on my ride!! Starter would only click when turning key. Found this writeup, Thanks for the info. Wanted to add that if you have about 2 feet of rachet extensions you don't have to remove exhaust bracket.

crom

I just went through the starter removal and this is how i did it, very easy when i figured it out. I've read the removals and i think that some of them are too complicated.

Break the starter bolts. (use 2 long extensions 6" or more with 1/2 drive/and the largest ratchet you have, use a cheater if you can. Will also need a swivel. bottom one is easy, top a little harder. angle the extension as level as you can from the top bolt through the crossmember and out, this will give you the best angle.

remove the trans stick, unbolt the brakeline.

Here is wher I did it a little different (take the brake line and ziptie it to the left side of the wheel well (there are a/c (?) lines thereif you are looking straight into the wheel well at the starter) this makes it much easier took 5 minutes to pull it out after unbolting and turning the starter around.

also, when you unhook the wheel well mudflaps that keep debris from getting in the engine compartment to get to the starter, unhook the ones at the front of the wheel well (you can put your arms through and get both sides of the starter to flip it around and pull it through the hole(like the picture above, but with the brakeline to the left(much easier))

took me ten minutes total to pull out and put back in (without bolts of course)

don't overthink this, it is actually very simple and i believe that the dealerhip does it this way.

toyotas are very well thought out as far as design, if it something appears to be complex then it is probably you that is making it that way. except that our hands are twice the size of an japaness auto worker

crom

these are the only bolts that i took off to get the starter out, nothing else.

starter bolts are a 14mm i believe

2Whlin

ok, great right up. Going to be doing this to my 1996 4Runner V6 with 186,000 miles.
Been getting the click thing now pretty constant for a couple weeks.
Had someone tell me to check the camshaft or crankshaft sensors. I think starter is the issue here.

Will be tearing into it tomorrow night.

stir_fry_boy

Man, after seeing what you guys went through and looking at the FSM, the FSM makes this look easy! I hope I don't have to do it on my 02' with 110k anytime soon!

2Whlin

sorry but what ist he FSM?

stir_fry_boy

Factory Service Manual........