3.4L conversion won't start!
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3.4L conversion won't start!
This refers back to my original thread here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/3-4l-swap-wont-start-ignitor-84436/
I am ready to start pulling my hair out! It is driving me crazy!!!
A little background: I have a 1994 M/T 4Runner that I am doing a 3.4L conversion with from a 98 4Runner M/T donor. The engine is in and I have been trying to get it to start for months and I am at my wits end. I am using a ORS 3.4L conversion harness for the wiring duties. As of right now the exhaust still needs to be fabricated. I am using Downey headers. Temporarily I installed the O2 sensors to close the circuits although there are about three or four other connectors at the same end of the 3.4L wiring harness that are not being used. (should they be...and can this be my problem??).
I am getting air and fuel but I am only getting spark at ONE of the coil packs at the #1 position (front right cylinder). All the coil packs work because I can rotate the coil packs and get the same result only at this #1 position.
I have been throwing too much money at this and have replaced to date: Igniter, ECU and plug wires.
Tested the crank and cam position sensors and they both fall within the FSM recommended Ohm readings (cold). I am beginning to guess that, even though these test out ok the problem lies within one of these sensors.
I am ready to start pulling my hair out! It is driving me crazy!!!
A little background: I have a 1994 M/T 4Runner that I am doing a 3.4L conversion with from a 98 4Runner M/T donor. The engine is in and I have been trying to get it to start for months and I am at my wits end. I am using a ORS 3.4L conversion harness for the wiring duties. As of right now the exhaust still needs to be fabricated. I am using Downey headers. Temporarily I installed the O2 sensors to close the circuits although there are about three or four other connectors at the same end of the 3.4L wiring harness that are not being used. (should they be...and can this be my problem??).
I am getting air and fuel but I am only getting spark at ONE of the coil packs at the #1 position (front right cylinder). All the coil packs work because I can rotate the coil packs and get the same result only at this #1 position.
I have been throwing too much money at this and have replaced to date: Igniter, ECU and plug wires.
Tested the crank and cam position sensors and they both fall within the FSM recommended Ohm readings (cold). I am beginning to guess that, even though these test out ok the problem lies within one of these sensors.
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Is it possible for you to tell us which "plugs" are not plugged in yet? That might help a little, even though it's pretty strange that only one coil pack (position) works. Are you sure the ECU is good?
#3
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I'm going to throw this out there just in case. Did you replace your timing belt and maybe you should check the timing marks in case you havnt done that yet.
I'm sure the cam and crank sensors tell the ECU when to ignite the coils. One more thing maybe get the FSM for your truck and follow the trouble shoting flow chart for a no start situation.
I can send you some PDF files if you need . PM me with your email Addy if you want the files.
Two months and no start you must have the patience of a buddist munk
Oh yeah about the plugs hanging by the 02 sensor I've done the swap and have several unused plugs haging there as well I think they are for the trany used in the 3.4
,Thomas
I'm sure the cam and crank sensors tell the ECU when to ignite the coils. One more thing maybe get the FSM for your truck and follow the trouble shoting flow chart for a no start situation.
I can send you some PDF files if you need . PM me with your email Addy if you want the files.
Two months and no start you must have the patience of a buddist munk
Oh yeah about the plugs hanging by the 02 sensor I've done the swap and have several unused plugs haging there as well I think they are for the trany used in the 3.4
,Thomas
Last edited by Tragic Drive; 06-22-2006 at 05:21 PM.
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Originally Posted by marko3xl3
Is it possible for you to tell us which "plugs" are not plugged in yet? That might help a little, even though it's pretty strange that only one coil pack (position) works. Are you sure the ECU is good?
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Originally Posted by Tragic Drive
I'm going to throw this out there just in case. Did you replace your timing belt and maybe you should check the timing marks in case you havnt done that yet.
I'm sure the cam and crank sensors tell the ECU when to ignite the coils. One more thing maybe get the FSM for your truck and follow the trouble shoting flow chart for a no start situation.
I can send you some PDF files if you need . PM me with your email Addy if you want the files.
Two months and no start you must have the patience of a buddist munk
Oh yeah about the plugs hanging by the 02 sensor I've done the swap and have several unused plugs haging there as well I think they are for the trany used in the 3.4
,Thomas
I'm sure the cam and crank sensors tell the ECU when to ignite the coils. One more thing maybe get the FSM for your truck and follow the trouble shoting flow chart for a no start situation.
I can send you some PDF files if you need . PM me with your email Addy if you want the files.
Two months and no start you must have the patience of a buddist munk
Oh yeah about the plugs hanging by the 02 sensor I've done the swap and have several unused plugs haging there as well I think they are for the trany used in the 3.4
,Thomas
I don't know about Buddist Monk but I mainly work on this during the weekends because I have been going to school full time and working full time and the rest of the week my son takes up my free time.
#6
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Sorry to hear about your problem. Did the engine run ok before it was removed from the donor truck? You say "the exhaust still needs to be fabricated", so how do you have the O2 sensor in place?
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Sorry to hear about your problem. Did the engine run ok before it was removed from the donor truck? You say "the exhaust still needs to be fabricated", so how do you have the O2 sensor in place?
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#8
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Originally Posted by Pozi
I have the O2 sensors plugged into the conenctors and that is it. I was thinking that I would still get spark at least if the O2 sensors are not installed in the exhaust tubing.
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
I would think so too. Did the engine run ok before it was removed from the donor truck or do you know?
#10
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For the record Pozi I was able to start my motor without the oxy sensors plugged in. You will be able to run it for a few minutes before it goes into closed loop mode. The ECU will throw a CEL if you run it to long.
Wish I was there to give you a hand at getting that motor running. Let us know if the timing marks line up.
,Thomas
Wish I was there to give you a hand at getting that motor running. Let us know if the timing marks line up.
,Thomas
#12
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Originally Posted by Pozi
Yeah the vehicle has been down for over a year now! Thank God we have alternate vehicles.
I still get the feeling there is something that might be wired up incorrectly (the fact that only one coil pack is firing is very strange). Are you sure that ORS made the correct harness for your engine/ECU combo (since the pinout on ECUs changed from year to year)? Have they given you any help on troubleshooting the issue at all? I mean without knowing if the engine ran and with a custom made engine wiring harness the possibilities seem almost limitless. You mentioned already that you went through all the sensors so I am also curious about the timing belt alignment (just pull the top cover off and verify the cams against the crank pulley).
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 06-23-2006 at 03:25 PM.
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Ok. No luck with anything.
I tore the front of the engine off to double check the timing marks. Everything is ok there.
Checked the continuity between the coil packs and the igniter. All ok
Continuity between igniter and ECU. All ok
After looking at the engine wiring diagram for the 1,001st time it is a mystery ar to what the iginter does exactly.
I am at my wits end here.
I tore the front of the engine off to double check the timing marks. Everything is ok there.
Checked the continuity between the coil packs and the igniter. All ok
Continuity between igniter and ECU. All ok
After looking at the engine wiring diagram for the 1,001st time it is a mystery ar to what the iginter does exactly.
I am at my wits end here.
#14
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Originally Posted by Pozi
Ok. No luck with anything.
I tore the front of the engine off to double check the timing marks. Everything is ok there.
Checked the continuity between the coil packs and the igniter. All ok
Continuity between igniter and ECU. All ok
After looking at the engine wiring diagram for the 1,001st time it is a mystery ar to what the iginter does exactly.
I am at my wits end here.
I tore the front of the engine off to double check the timing marks. Everything is ok there.
Checked the continuity between the coil packs and the igniter. All ok
Continuity between igniter and ECU. All ok
After looking at the engine wiring diagram for the 1,001st time it is a mystery ar to what the iginter does exactly.
I am at my wits end here.
Here are a few more helpful links for you:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...5&pagenumber=1
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...=&fpart=1&vc=1
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...5&o=14&fpart=1
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 07-03-2006 at 09:57 AM.
#18
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Originally Posted by Pozi
Thanks for the reply and those links. I have read all of them many times in the past.
I would definately give ORS a call and see if they have seen this issue in the past.
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Originally Posted by 04 Rocko Taco
Sounds no good. Where you located at Pozi? Maybe someone local could be of some help.
#20
'Sorry I don't have a '98 electronic FSM. This is from my '00, so just use the terminals as a guide.
Check for 12v on one side of each coil.
When checking for the pulses, ordinary multimeter should show the pulses as noise (something other than a flat, stable voltage, a meter with a hold function will record high/low readings, a scope will show the waveform.
If the #1 plug is firing, the #4 plug should be firing also, does it?
Does the #1 plug fire just once, or continously thru cranking?
Check for 12v on one side of each coil.
When checking for the pulses, ordinary multimeter should show the pulses as noise (something other than a flat, stable voltage, a meter with a hold function will record high/low readings, a scope will show the waveform.
If the #1 plug is firing, the #4 plug should be firing also, does it?
Does the #1 plug fire just once, or continously thru cranking?