natedawgg94

Hey just a little curious to see if anyone has done this. Has anyone heard or done a egr bypass and a ford or chevy carb swap on a carburated 22r?

Plays_with_Toys

Never done it... There might be some adapter plates out there, like ebay or something.

natedawgg94

I've just throwed the idea around and if I remember correctly this is an early model carb I've got I think it my just bolt on at a glance to pattern looks the same look into further this weekend.

kyle_22r

putting a ford or chevy carb is pretty much a waste of time unless it's a holley 350. from what i understand, the weber 38 is 390CFM which would make the holley a compromise between the 32/36 and the 38. the carb itself is about $100 cheaper on average for a new one compared to a weber, too. i thought about going this route, by the desmogged 22R carb i'm putting on my new engine should do the trick fine.

the adapter plate is a 1 piece and can be had from lc engineering for about $50 if i'm not mistaken. they also sell the EGR block plates, or you can just disconnect the vacuum lines from your EGR valve if it isn't stuck open, has the same effect

Plays_with_Toys

Kyle, or anyone else, do any of you guys know what vacuum lines are necessary coming off the carb? I know three lines go to some canister on the fender. Would you just have to cap off any vacuum lines that the new carb didn't have connections for or what?

kyle_22r

i don't think any of them are totally necessary if you gut your carb...however if you're a normal person who isn't doing roundy-rounds with your foot to the floor, you should at least hook up the AAP, choke breaker, and choke opener, as well as the advance and retard on the distributor.

i did this, and capped off everything else(i think there's only a few other connections to cap on the carb). the reference i used is a canadian '83 vacuum diagram -- they didn't even have an EGR valve back then, while american trucks were strangled with smog junk. the only things i didn't hook up in that diagram were the thermo valve(i have an aftermarket 9" air cleaner so it would be pointless) and the charcoal canister because my truck doesn't have one anyway. we'll see how mine works, i've yet to fire it up but i think it should be fine.

Plays_with_Toys

Cool, I'll check that out and see what I can plug

jimbo74

what aftermarket 9" air cleaner do you have... and where did you cap of the thermal thing at? i know mine isnt doing any good with my air cleaner mod.....

Plays_with_Toys

I am using a penzoil air cleaner, but damn. Mines only like 4 inches tall. Your's is what, 6-8" tall? Does the hood even clear? I actually get better gas mileage, torque, and sound with my aircleaner mod. Though I have to get one that is wider because in really cold temps at around 3000RPMs the aircleaner top vibrates and sounds like crap.

jimbo74

i have a 3" bodylift on my truck, and there is still room for a larger filter, i jsut havent found one, im happy with the size that it is at..... the top of mine doesnt vibrate at speeds....

kyle_22r

i bought the generic 9" one from vato zone. i'm gonna go hunt down a smog fitting for the bottom, as it's cheaper than just putting breathers on the PCV and fresh air hose(probably $5 for the smog fitting for the filter assy. compared to $10 each for breather filters)

mind you i bought an adapter to use a generic american style flange(5 1/16 or whatever the typical round one is) from lc engineering for like $30 bucks a while back, otherwise you'll have a bit of a problem fitting a round neck on the wierd trapezoid 22R flange.

i'll take some pics tomorrow if i get sent home from work early enough to finish the engine and start putting it in the truck...

Plays_with_Toys

It only vibrates at 45* or below when I back off the throttle around 3000rpms. I wonder how tall I can go...

jimbo74

can i jsut cap off the thermo valve or shoul i leave it alone?