The manuals has this as an actual scheduled maintenance item(60K), has anyone had this done or done it themselves. Is it cost worthy or something that is not exactyl necessary. Just curious, this is the first vehicle I've owned that called for something like that. What would be the beneifts?

 

Try Here.

This is about as detailed a write-up as I know about. Since our engines have a mechanical (instead of hydraulic) valve-train there can be some wear associated with that, which required periodic changing of shims to keep everything within spec.

Of course having an engine within factory spec is the best way to go, but I can tell you Toyota was being a "little" conservative with their 60k interval... Probably should have been more like 100k, but I guess better to be safe than sorry.

 

Thats a good post, that guy did his well over 100k and had little adjustments. I think I'll just add it to my 90k stop at the dealer and get that checked along with the timing belt and water pump replacement. Might as well get it all done at once and run up a good bill!

 

That is about the best writeup I have seen for that. Most of the time people don't do this at all and the engine will still run fine for 200-300k miles. Typically dealers don't even recommend doing it unless there is a very noticable tick and the customer wishes to fix it.

 

This is exactly what I have being told numerous times including service advisors at Toyota: don’t do it unless you have a problem with Valves and that will not happened until 200K-300K if do regular Oil changes.

 

I have worked on a lot of engines that use "bucket" lifters. Mainly teardowns for a rebuild, and have yet to see ONE that came into the shop with valve lash that was out of spec.

If you do go ahead and do the job, measure the existing valve lash, subtract the new clearance from the existing clearance, remove the shim that's in there, measure thickness of shim, add difference of clearance and buy a new shim in that thickness.

...be aware that Toyota stealers get around $32-$45 PER SHIM. You need one per valve that needs adjustment.

 

The shims don't cost quite that much. MSRP is $7.52 each or you can buy them from an online discounter (like Champion/Jay Marks Toyota) for about $6 each. My local dealer wanted somewhere inbetween.

I just purchased the Toyota SST (special service tool) that makes valve lash adjustment easy (apparently). Mine arrived in the mail today from SPX, the company that makes the SSTs for Toyota. P/N 09248-55040. Cost is about $75.

 

Hello,
Getting ready to check and or adjust my valves (1996 3.4 Ltr. V6, 150,000mi.) and after reading the procedure in the Haynes manual was wondering if anyone has ever done a valve adjustment on their 3.4L without getting the specialty tool(s)? (valve bucket compression tool & holder) Just curious? I have done several "shim over bucket" valve adjustments (shim replacements) on other engines than this one and have always been able to "finagle" something to work instead of the usually Stealer only supplied recommended tool, but only after reading, talking to or hearing that someone else has done it "this way"... Just wondering if anyone has colored outside the lines and done this & how or if the manual is right, "It is impossible to perform this task without the tools"?
thanks,
John

P.S. Or, if anyone has the tools and wouldn't mind doing a "loaner by mail" I'll pay postage both ways an a little extra for the rental? P.M. if interested.
thanks

 

100k insanely loud tick , s/c 5vz 2jz injectors all exhaust valvees were .013 to .014 ,, seemed strange this in spec then i found this guys page, just reead a article from another guys saying .015 was best i take his word , didnt think about heat expansion i changed my oil at 3,000 with mobile one long life, and my cams got hott spots and small chips ,i would check the valves at suggested intervals if u have a motor mods , or ur cams will look like mine

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