Wassup everybody.......I was just wondering if I could add on a KNN Intake to my 4Runner with a TRD Supercharger? Would the intake help or not? What's the pros and cons adding the intake?

 

Pros: sounds cool
Cons: you lose horsepower, you'll let more dirt in the engine.

 

ill lose horsepower if I add the intake? thats weird cause i would think it would suck cooler air into the S/C and add horsepower......just curiosity, would the intake fit right on? any mods putting it on?

 

If I were you, which virtually my 4Runner is, I would start with the Deckplate/ISR mods. Then I would get an AFE drop in filter.

That's what I did... Do what you want =)

**Edit** Are you running any fuel mods? If not I would worry about fuel first delivery first...

 

Intakes are not worth it, the stock intake with the elbow removed (or the deckplate if you want more supercharger sound although it doesn't add much performance) is about as good as it gets. It is really a good flowing intake with no real restrictions once you remove the elbow, that is worth ~8whp.

I did some back to back dynos of my truck with the stock intake with no elbow and a cold air intake. Here are the results. Blue is Stock, Red is the cold air.



It surprised the heck out of me i know that, i didn't expect massive gains but sure didn't expect to loose power. I was so surprised i ran the test again (swapped back to the cold air and back to the stock intake) with the same results.

It is not a massive difference in power but you do loose power with the cold air intake. Gadget backed up these results when i asked him about it, said he saw about the same results.

When i started looking into it closer i realized that with a good filter it was hard to improve on the stock setup as there were no restrictions and it pulled in truly cold air from inside the fender.

So in the end, don't bother with an intake. It ain't worth it. Just remove the elbow from the stock box.

Now lets move on to more important things, what is your supercharger setup right now? What fuel mods? what pulley? Those are MUCH MUCH more important as they will give you both more power and make it MUCH safer.

 

So what is it about the K&N set up that makes you loose power over the stock set-up? Is it the fact that the stock set-up is inclosed and the K&N has a "cubicle" like partition? Also, why is it that people keep saying that the K&N filter lets more dirt in when the K&N filter, with the propper prep, and the stock filter use the same median? I ask these questions because I have a K&N intake on my truck and I swear it's faster (granted that i don't have any dyno results to back it up). But then again, my truck is still N/A for the time being and maybe that's the difference.

 

You most likely are faster with it because you removed the stock elbow when swapping. Try the stock airbox with the elbow removed and then the K&N and things will be a lot different.

The K&N is louder though so it will seem faster. I swore my truck was faster with my cold air intake before the dyno, which is why it shocked me so bad when it had less power.

The mind does funny things when it hears more sound it assumes you are moving faster.

The K&N filter generally has a much worse filter micron to allow for the extra flow. They do offer a few kinds of filters so not sure which one you are using.

 

I second that. AFE is the way to go. Nothing with oil.

 

I'm N/A (not supercharged) but also strongly believe in the power of the stock air box. IMO the best set up is stock box, no deckplate mod, with an airaid elbow. I think the low-end power is much better this way. The CAI can help at high RPMs but I do most of my driving below 4,000 rpms.



It's tempting to get the CAI but you can save your money.

 

I have a K&N that drops into the stock box and I have taken it out back, dug a whole and buried it so no one else has the misfortune of using the damn thing. All it's good for is letting more particulates into your motor and covering your intake with oil. Worst spent money on the truck so far.

 

I'll try that and look for a difference. Do you think I should do the deckplate mod on it as well? What suggestions for a good drop in filter (one that is yotatech approved heh )?

 

Deckplate doesn't do much past removing the elbow according to Gadget and i can see why. It does make it louder though which like i was saying before will trick your brain into thinking it is faster. The dyno is the true test for power as it is unbiased.

Filter can be whatever you want, if it gives you more power, it won't filter as well. This is the basic rule of thumb to go by. Personally i just get the cheap basic filters and change them out more often vs an expensive filter. Thats just my preference though.

 

I'll probably wind up doing the deckplate mod because I do like that induction noise, but as long as it doesn't kill the power. I want to go with a reloadable filter insert because I have easy access to cleaning and re-oiling products. Also, eventually buying the cheap replacements would become more expensive in the long run than just getting a good drop in. I just want to know what brand makes a drop in that isn't known for letting dirt into the system.

 

Oiled filter = bad juju on a MAF sensor engine.

Not a big fan of them at all but the oil will play havoc on the MAF sensor. Better off getting an oilless filter in which case the rule of thumb above applies pretty well.

 

lol Bad juju, what kind of symptoms would you come up with for a gummed up MAF?

I saw that Travolous recomended the oil-less aFe insert, anyone know about the filtration on that puppy?

 

All sorts of problems can come from a gummed up MAF sensor. That is the #1 most important sensor to the running of the engine.

I know i have felt big differnces on my truck after cleaning it off and it was jut dirty from normal use, with oil on it as well things would be much worse.

I am not an expert on filters. Never paid a ton of attention to them myself, generally the extra cost for the good oilless filters that may actually preform better is not near worth the little gains from them over el cheapo filters.

I also would rather loose a hp or 2 and keep the engine a lot cleaner vs a filter that doesn't filter too well. Thats why i just buy the cheap filters, i just don't see it as smart to spend a lot more on the better filters for a daily driver.

 

So what do you think of me trying to take the K&N full intake that I already have and adapting it to fit the stock airbox that I still have (like modifying the K&N tube so that it will mount to where the airbox ends right after the MAF mount), then ditching the elbow that goes into the fender? I figure that way I'd be accomplishing the ISR mod at the same time while using what I've got.

 

I would sell the K&N and use the money to do a motorvac treatment. That will give you more performance then hacking it up for the tube.

Combined with a complete tune up it would feel like a new truck i bet.

 

lol Damn, but It took sooo long to save up for it when I was in college! Ah well.....like the song goes, "I wish I knew what I know now when I was younger..."

What's a motorvac treatment? The reason I was trying to get away with re-using the K&N parts is so i can avoid taking all of the resonator crap off of the intake tube. That and I used the stock tube to fix the intake on my 98 taco (cracked tube).

 

Well no reason to get rid of the K&N if you already have it really. Just keep an eye out for someone parting out a 4runner to get a stock box from or the junk yard ect. Then swap it out after you find one.

A motorvac treatment is basically a seafoam treatment on steroids. It basically idles the truck on a special mix of injector/top end cleaner that will clean out everything in the fuel system, injectors, valves, combustion chambers ect.

I have noticed a big difference on every car i have ran it on.

Live and learn, i know the feeling of buying a bunch of stuff you regret later. Go lookup some of my first build threads on this 4runner as an example. Had some ricer in me back then. Lucky for me i learned quick and moved on to real mods that work within a year.