1997 4runner v6 sr5 2wd overheating problem help!
#1
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1997 4runner v6 sr5 2wd overheating problem help!
3 row aluminum radiator with a separate trans cooler. no kinks in hoses, space fan blowing constant cool air through it. with the radiator cap on, over heats after about 5 to 10 minutes at an idle. upon cold start up rpm is at 1500 once it warms up to normal temp it goes down between 800 to 1000rpm. figured i might have too much poundage on my radiator cap. traded it out with a 13 pound cap and it boiled over into the overflow tank. stayed at a good temp for a little while longer but it still eventually got up to the H. any input or advice is greatly appreciated thank you
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RPM's sound about right.
By space fan blowing constant cool air do you mean the heater is blowing cool air when in the heat position and the fan is on?
Was the radiator just put in? Other cooling system work recently done? If so, it sounds like you have air in the cooling system and what it's overflowing when a bubble 'burps' tries to burp out of the radiator.
Get the radiator so it pointed uphill, remove the cap, start the engine, run the heater on high heat and fan, and add coolant as the air burps out of the system.
You do have a proper coolant/water ratio in the system?
By space fan blowing constant cool air do you mean the heater is blowing cool air when in the heat position and the fan is on?
Was the radiator just put in? Other cooling system work recently done? If so, it sounds like you have air in the cooling system and what it's overflowing when a bubble 'burps' tries to burp out of the radiator.
Get the radiator so it pointed uphill, remove the cap, start the engine, run the heater on high heat and fan, and add coolant as the air burps out of the system.
You do have a proper coolant/water ratio in the system?
#3
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just put the radiator in yesterday, the fan is just a regular fan you can buy from walmart thats hanging off the radiator support to circulate air through the radiator. its already parked nose upward in my driveway i though it was air pockets at first. when i ran it the first time the coolant level dropped 7 inches or so, filled it and the level stayed sound. no other recent coolant system work done. running straight water until i find the root of this problem.
#5
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i did not fill the block before i installed the radiator. i picked it up with front end damage and no radiator in it. previous coolant problems i wouldnt know. the radiator thats on there now is a 3row racing radiator i had laying around brand new never used. i assumed the cap had too much pressure so i swapped it with a 13 pound cap and it allowed for the fluid to boil out into the overflow tank and keep the temp in the middle for a little bit longer. even with the the cap though it still jumps up to H after about 15 minutes of run time
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I'm more concered about the potential dry block start.
Does this sound similar.....see the first few posts and then again at post 21 through the end:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/5...-heads-246493/
Does this sound similar.....see the first few posts and then again at post 21 through the end:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/5...-heads-246493/
Last edited by rworegon; 02-19-2012 at 03:26 PM.
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#8
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ive already checked the oil and im not getting the milk so that rules out head gasket. im going to go see if i cant get a little more coolant in the block through the upper hose, try and weed out the cheapest possible problems first.
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Good plan..........but, keep that thread in the back of your mind.
If you pull the t-stat, be sure to install in with the jiggle valve in the 6 o'clock position. This is the 5vz-fe engine, correct?
If you pull the t-stat, be sure to install in with the jiggle valve in the 6 o'clock position. This is the 5vz-fe engine, correct?
Last edited by rworegon; 02-19-2012 at 03:49 PM.
#10
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well, dry start it was. after a few minutes of the garden hose in the upper radiator hose it filled up. hooked everything back up and ran it for 30 minutes with no problems. it even runs slightly colder than center mark on the temp gauge.
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If the front cover of the motor says 3400 on it, it's a 5vz-fe.
Ouch, on the dry start. Hopefully, all is good with the head gasket and the heads did not warp.....time will tell.
Ok, now to do this right flush the garden hose water out of the system. Use distilled water and a gallon of Toyota RED coolant. If you can only get Toyota Pink coolant, it is pre-diluted.
Ouch, on the dry start. Hopefully, all is good with the head gasket and the heads did not warp.....time will tell.
Ok, now to do this right flush the garden hose water out of the system. Use distilled water and a gallon of Toyota RED coolant. If you can only get Toyota Pink coolant, it is pre-diluted.
Last edited by rworegon; 02-19-2012 at 05:33 PM.
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None on 4Runner's, but many years of maintaining my own Tacoma - bought new with 1 mile and now has 192,000. Experience on other makes over the years too.
It helps that Toyota used the same engine, transmissions, etc. in different models so tons of knowledge is transferable.
It helps that Toyota used the same engine, transmissions, etc. in different models so tons of knowledge is transferable.
Last edited by rworegon; 02-19-2012 at 05:40 PM.
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