started building a 90 extended cab sr5 4x4 ( have pics so far dont know how to post just yet im working on it)

-started with 2000$ truck with 232,000 miles leaks in places i didnt even know leaked it spit sputtered but had no rust (im in michigan hard to find) i thought it was a good start.

-now has a 1800$ paint and body job its painted pearl black with navy blue sparkle it turns from gloss black to navy blue in the sun no dents scratches anywhere has new rear end and a 3500$ jasper 3.0v6 a flip out touch screen TV (no off-road use) and i have a set of 35/12.50-20 mud grapplers and a set of 20in moto metal rims black, chrome pieces.

NEED HELP-----------

I have no lift anyone have a decent CHEAP way to lift it up enough to clear 35s and how much of a turd is it going to be with stock gears and 35s will it still not be a hassle to drive? i was thinking bigger torsion bars an add a lief in the rear and a hammer. that would give me about 3 inches right? or does anyone have a better idea? plus my rims dont have enough back spacing so the inside of the lugs rub on my A-arm about a 1/4 inch how do yall feel about spacers?

 

if its just a street truck, a cheap ifs 4" bracket lift would work.

run some bj spacers to relax the tbars or add height if you want and you should be able to clear 35''s without touchign your fenders.


got pics?

 

Upload your pictures from your computer to a Free Service like http://photobucket.com/ I have got 500+ pictures on it. When you get them uploaded just copy and paste the [img] code that you will find to the right of your picture.

You will get mixed reviews about spacers. Some people feel they put undo stress on the front end. Just remember that you will need them for the rear end too, to make the track width match.
I do not recommend just steel 1/4" spacers that some people run. I tried them on my old '05 taco and they did not give me enough thread for the lug nuts.
I am running 1.5" spacers on the front of my '81:

 

Don't use spacers that just slip over the studs. You need spacers that have new studs in them. These are the proper spacers to use.

To clear 35" tires, here is a good cheap option:

3" body lift - 150 bucks
1.5" bj spacers - 120 bucks
Rear Add a leaf - 50 bucks / Or get new leaf springs, costly but a good idea.

Crank up your t-bars to an even 2" of lift over stock, and beat in the inner fender with a hammer. You say your truck does not see off road much, so this should work with 35" rubber. It will be close though.

a 4" bracket lift + small body lift would keep rubbing to a minimum, but those bracket lifts suck and are pricey!

Plus, 35" tires on stock gears (either 4.10 or 4.56) No a good idea. Ugrade to 5.29 gears, this will keep your truck somewhat peppy. No cheap way of doing gears except doing it right the first time.

 

yeah i figured something like that.. im looking at half in spacers so my tread will clear my a-arm beacuse the 20in rim i have wont let them clear the a-arm then i think im going with the rough country 4.5 5 in lift its the cheapest its like 600$ then im going to add a leaf the rear id dont like blocks and i wont touch a body lift im cheap but not that cheap. ive never tried the spacers tho i wonder how well it works. ill see what i can do about getting pics on here. thanks guys. and why 5.29s i was thinking 4.88s my buddys got an 85 with 38 boggers and 5.29s and that thing tops out at like 60 but it will roast 38s on concrete with a stock 20r. dont you think 5.29s it a little much?

 

Gotta remember that most here subject our trucks to situations where we need wheelspin. You don't. In my '91 4R, I get along okay on the streets with stock gearing and 35's with an auto trans, but I can't spin 'em unless it's raining. I think a standard with 35's would be too much. 4.88's should be fine IMO.

 

Unless you want to cut, grind or pound just a bracket lift won't be enough for your 35's. You'll probably need to do a few inch body lift to get above them. Do some searching on body lifts. They actually have many benefits and only one drawback (looks). I've found that if you run any type of nerf bar or slider on the truck that it doesn't look bad at all. They make the truck a whole lot easier to work on too. I'm running a 4" bracket lift, a 1.5" bj spacer and a 3" body lift and I can still just barely get my 36's to rub if I stuff them all the way. For all intents and purposes though I clear them very well. There's a build up link in my sig with pics.

I'm also running 5.29's in the truck and with the 36" tires my speedometer is spot on with GPS now meaning it's the perfect gear for the tires. The truck drives like it was stock.

 

where did you find benefits? and i got a buddy who cleared 35 mtrs with only 3 inches of body lift. and the white toyota in the picture to the left of this post is mine and its running 35 swampers with only 3 inches of body lift and cranked t bars with an add a lief. why couldnt i do that with that much lift on an extended cab?i mean all together it only had about 5 inches. i also had stock 4.10s in that yota with a 22re and it didnt run to bad. i got 3rd place in the muddruns i got videos of it and everything + i got a little trophy with a mini monster truck on it. i thought it was the coolest thing the night i got it i walked around holding it over my head yellin whooo yota power. i might have been a little drunk i dont remember.

 

Sounds like you have it all figured out then...

So, why exactly are you here anyway?

 

i was looking for someone whos done something similar for cheaper i also wanted to know if anyone tried the rough country 5in lift kit. the 22re in the picture i hated the body lift on it so im not looking to do that and i herd there was a big difference lifting an extended cab v6 then a single cab 22re so im asking why and seeing if there really is a difference. so far no one has told me anything i didnt already know so im looking for someone who will. thats why im here! plus ive never used spacers so i dont know where to find a good set and which ones to use. also why im here!

 

i bought my 1.5" wheel spacers from brian at wabfab.org. well priced IMO, and i've never had an issue....been almost a year now. the techs at toyota always give me flack, but that's not why i'm paying them so i tell them to , same with the guys at the tire shop...always looking to sell me a set of new wheels.

 

A Rough Country lift is the same exact lift made by the same people as a Superlift kit is. It's just the Superlift has nicer coatings on the parts. That's it. I paid for an RC kit and they had supply issues and sent me a Superlift for the same price.

The Rough Country kit is a "4-5" " kit meaning it is a 4" lift and they say you can get 5 if you crank the tbars up an inch. Rather than do that I opted to add a 1.5" bj spacer and relax the tbars to improve the ride.

I also have had a body lift on the truck since it was bought new back December of 94. I have had zero issues with it and I can change the fuel filter in 15 minutes, the oil filter without removing the trap door or strugling, and get my oil pan off (before the bracket lift obviously) without dropping the front diff. It also gives more room to work on the engine from the topside, and is necessary if you ever plan to do a 3.4l or V8 swap. If you want more search for the threads on body lifts. There are the web wheelers that always are the first to say body lifts suck, then the people that actually wheel usually chime in and talk about real world benefits.

And then there's always the price...

If you're worried about the quality of the kits go buy one frm 4crawler with the metal pucks. Problem solved.

Sorry if I had a 'tude last night, I was on my way to bed.

 

great post thank you that helped me out alot!!! its about time someone said something that actually helped instead of tried to make me look stupid. has anyone found good gap guards for the body lifts yet? i know rough country has them on there website as "coming soon" if i get a body lift how big does it have to be to make a difference do i have to have a 3inch for all the percs or can i go with a 2inch and accomplish the same? if you cant tell im really not a body lift fan i really never had a problem with it i just dont like looking cheap and i hate the gap it leaves between the bed... it did actually make cleaning under the truck easier after mudd runs and play days driving through the lake.... how much did you pay for your RC lift the cheapest one i found is 609.00$ and says that i should pay another 90$ for Dual Steering Stabilizer is it worth the money for the extra stabilizer? and how do you subscribe to your posts so it sends you and email when a post is made? thanks yall

 

yeah i would do a 2 inch body lift and that suspension lift you got and youll be fine... do you lan on getting a offroad yoter??

cause i know i have a hard time keeping my surf on clean ground when my other yoters are down lol

 

See:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...html#GapGuards

 

thanks ill check thoes gap guards out. And yeah i have an off road yota this one is my pretty one. im originally from florida and were all yota boys around where i come from i have a 94.5 on 35 Tsl its a turd but it runs like non other. a guy wants to trade me for an 85 that needs some work plus 1000$ i think i want to do that and put a 350 in it with 38s or 40s. so ill have my extended cab on 20s and my single cab on 40s..

 

I ordered mine directly from Rough Country because they had the same prices everyone else but killed all of the others in shipping charges. I bought my rims and tires from them in the same purchase and If I'm not mistaken they only charged me like $89 in shipping for all of it. By the time they subbed a Superlift kit for the Rough Country kit and then had the tires shipped from 4wheelparts, I'm pretty sure they didn't make a whole lot off of me.

Btw, the link 4crawler posted above also has the body lift kits I was refrering to. Good stuff.

If you hit the reply button on a post instead of using the quick reply box, there is an option at the bottom to subscribe to the thread.

 

I've got 35's on mine with little more than a rear shackle lift and some trimming and hammering.



I don't see why a 3" BL wouldn't work to clear them.

 

You can't flex at all in the rear without major rubbing huh? Those tires fill those wheel wells up nice lol

 

see i told you i knew you could clear at least 33s with no lift ive never tried 35s your nuts. but if he can clear 35s with no lift on a 4 runner i can clear 35s with 5 inches on a pickup! props good post. and yeah i looked at that body lift i might end up getting a 2inch i think 3 is to much but i would like to be able to get my oil pan off without dropping the front end.