Swimmerboy2112's 1991 Pickup Build Thread
Sep 29, 2011 | 03:29 PM
#221
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From: Walnutport, PA
Brian, .............. You might know this, ...but wrap the header up where it travels down to the collector, after 'removing' the stock manifold 'bracket'. (it has to come off or the header will not fit.... At least, it wouldn't for me, lol).
Can't wait to see it on there.... You'll LOVE IT, and it DOES offer a more throaty sound, on top of the performance aspect(which I can testify to). Even more so with the sound if you end up going with 2.25" to the back/out pipe.
Can't wait to see it on there.... You'll LOVE IT, and it DOES offer a more throaty sound, on top of the performance aspect(which I can testify to). Even more so with the sound if you end up going with 2.25" to the back/out pipe.
Sweet, looking forward to have it installed! I do plan on going with a 2.25" exhaust out the back as well as a little surprise ...
Sep 29, 2011 | 08:21 PM
#222
Oh what am I thinking? You're a tease, you wont tell! lol...
Jk, hope it's koo!
Sep 29, 2011 | 08:23 PM
#223
BTW, I assume you know I meant "Wrap the header in a thick towel or cardboard tight around it".. Cuz otherwise, it get's HACKED up by the 'ping, ding, banggggg'N it can do while trying to guide it through there. I know, it looks CAKE, which is mostly is... but it's tighter than you think when having to get the flange up over the studs.
When you trip out on how THICK that freakin flange is, ...post up here! lol.
PS> Did you order up some new studs, or at least lock nuts for the job? Headers rattle those nuts loose, homie! lol. But seriously, you'll probably have to hit it a few times(or couple) before it stays snug on the lock nuts.
When you trip out on how THICK that freakin flange is, ...post up here! lol.
PS> Did you order up some new studs, or at least lock nuts for the job? Headers rattle those nuts loose, homie! lol. But seriously, you'll probably have to hit it a few times(or couple) before it stays snug on the lock nuts.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Sep 29, 2011 at 08:24 PM.
Sep 30, 2011 | 01:52 AM
#224
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
regarding the studs.....ordered Joe's from LC Engineering. If I'm not full of crap, I believe they are configured a bit differently than OEM to accommodate the header flange thickness. Price was reasonable, shipping cost is kinda ...meh.
I know it's a totally different animal (engine), but in order to get Joe's headers in place, had to do it, minus some studs. Had to install those remaining studs after the header was held in place. Not sure what to tell ya as far as a gasket goes...his came with them, you should check LC's site. We also used the COPPER RTV stuff.
have fun man...... looking forward to seeing pics.
I know it's a totally different animal (engine), but in order to get Joe's headers in place, had to do it, minus some studs. Had to install those remaining studs after the header was held in place. Not sure what to tell ya as far as a gasket goes...his came with them, you should check LC's site. We also used the COPPER RTV stuff.
have fun man...... looking forward to seeing pics.
ok maybe not that excited... 
Sep 30, 2011 | 07:34 PM
#226
Yeah, Jerry, ... I've posted many times for several people on that... slipped by me this time........
You WILL, most likely, NEED those studs..... BUT, this doesn't mean that you can't find them at a local store. Napa might be able to help, Pep Boys, etc., but they must be around 1/4" longer, due to the thickness of the flange, as Jerry stated, already, lol. Most often it's recommended to change studs when removing all the nuts after 20 YEARS, anyhow, lol. But ESPECIALLY when the flange is almost twice as thick, ya know? The longer portion of the stud needs to go as deep into the head as possible, so it's best to carefully remove the studs and then carefully chase the threads and then carefully, slowly, feeling for binding as you go, insert the new ones. I think I paid 27$ for all 8-10 with nuts? One good thing about LCE... when they say "quick shipping", they mean it! lol... Especially if you call them, speak with Wes, he should expedite it for ya, ya knwow?
Best wishes on this, Brian, you'll love it, I know it. OH, yeah, as Jerry also said, ... if you need a gasket, they will ship one with the studs/nuts for pretty cheap.
You WILL, most likely, NEED those studs..... BUT, this doesn't mean that you can't find them at a local store. Napa might be able to help, Pep Boys, etc., but they must be around 1/4" longer, due to the thickness of the flange, as Jerry stated, already, lol. Most often it's recommended to change studs when removing all the nuts after 20 YEARS, anyhow, lol. But ESPECIALLY when the flange is almost twice as thick, ya know? The longer portion of the stud needs to go as deep into the head as possible, so it's best to carefully remove the studs and then carefully chase the threads and then carefully, slowly, feeling for binding as you go, insert the new ones. I think I paid 27$ for all 8-10 with nuts? One good thing about LCE... when they say "quick shipping", they mean it! lol... Especially if you call them, speak with Wes, he should expedite it for ya, ya knwow?
Best wishes on this, Brian, you'll love it, I know it. OH, yeah, as Jerry also said, ... if you need a gasket, they will ship one with the studs/nuts for pretty cheap.
Oct 1, 2011 | 07:23 AM
#228
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
Yeah, Jerry, ... I've posted many times for several people on that... slipped by me this time........
You WILL, most likely, NEED those studs..... BUT, this doesn't mean that you can't find them at a local store. Napa might be able to help, Pep Boys, etc., but they must be around 1/4" longer, due to the thickness of the flange, as Jerry stated, already, lol. Most often it's recommended to change studs when removing all the nuts after 20 YEARS, anyhow, lol. But ESPECIALLY when the flange is almost twice as thick, ya know? The longer portion of the stud needs to go as deep into the head as possible, so it's best to carefully remove the studs and then carefully chase the threads and then carefully, slowly, feeling for binding as you go, insert the new ones. I think I paid 27$ for all 8-10 with nuts? One good thing about LCE... when they say "quick shipping", they mean it! lol... Especially if you call them, speak with Wes, he should expedite it for ya, ya knwow?
Best wishes on this, Brian, you'll love it, I know it. OH, yeah, as Jerry also said, ... if you need a gasket, they will ship one with the studs/nuts for pretty cheap.
You WILL, most likely, NEED those studs..... BUT, this doesn't mean that you can't find them at a local store. Napa might be able to help, Pep Boys, etc., but they must be around 1/4" longer, due to the thickness of the flange, as Jerry stated, already, lol. Most often it's recommended to change studs when removing all the nuts after 20 YEARS, anyhow, lol. But ESPECIALLY when the flange is almost twice as thick, ya know? The longer portion of the stud needs to go as deep into the head as possible, so it's best to carefully remove the studs and then carefully chase the threads and then carefully, slowly, feeling for binding as you go, insert the new ones. I think I paid 27$ for all 8-10 with nuts? One good thing about LCE... when they say "quick shipping", they mean it! lol... Especially if you call them, speak with Wes, he should expedite it for ya, ya knwow?
Best wishes on this, Brian, you'll love it, I know it. OH, yeah, as Jerry also said, ... if you need a gasket, they will ship one with the studs/nuts for pretty cheap.
thanks Mark. Yeh..LCE was a pleasure to deal with. I did get one stud that was overlooked by QC and was not threaded on one side, the immediately sent one out after a quick email and got it right fast too. I did have a negative interaction with them when I was looking at a rebuild kit and under the picture it says something like "may not represent...." and when I asked what was included, the reply was "see the picture"....but that was the only negative .
Oct 2, 2011 | 05:17 PM
#230
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From: Walnutport, PA
BTW, I assume you know I meant "Wrap the header in a thick towel or cardboard tight around it".. Cuz otherwise, it get's HACKED up by the 'ping, ding, banggggg'N it can do while trying to guide it through there. I know, it looks CAKE, which is mostly is... but it's tighter than you think when having to get the flange up over the studs.
When you trip out on how THICK that freakin flange is, ...post up here! lol.
PS> Did you order up some new studs, or at least lock nuts for the job? Headers rattle those nuts loose, homie! lol. But seriously, you'll probably have to hit it a few times(or couple) before it stays snug on the lock nuts.
When you trip out on how THICK that freakin flange is, ...post up here! lol.
PS> Did you order up some new studs, or at least lock nuts for the job? Headers rattle those nuts loose, homie! lol. But seriously, you'll probably have to hit it a few times(or couple) before it stays snug on the lock nuts.
Can't wait to get the header so I can check it out for myself!
As far as studs/nuts go I think i'm gonna order the LCEngineering set.
regarding the studs.....ordered Joe's from LC Engineering. If I'm not full of crap, I believe they are configured a bit differently than OEM to accommodate the header flange thickness. Price was reasonable, shipping cost is kinda ...meh.
I know it's a totally different animal (engine), but in order to get Joe's headers in place, had to do it, minus some studs. Had to install those remaining studs after the header was held in place. Not sure what to tell ya as far as a gasket goes...his came with them, you should check LC's site. We also used the COPPER RTV stuff.
have fun man...... looking forward to seeing pics.
I know it's a totally different animal (engine), but in order to get Joe's headers in place, had to do it, minus some studs. Had to install those remaining studs after the header was held in place. Not sure what to tell ya as far as a gasket goes...his came with them, you should check LC's site. We also used the COPPER RTV stuff.
have fun man...... looking forward to seeing pics.
haha woohoo!
Yeah, Jerry, ... I've posted many times for several people on that... slipped by me this time........
You WILL, most likely, NEED those studs..... BUT, this doesn't mean that you can't find them at a local store. Napa might be able to help, Pep Boys, etc., but they must be around 1/4" longer, due to the thickness of the flange, as Jerry stated, already, lol. Most often it's recommended to change studs when removing all the nuts after 20 YEARS, anyhow, lol. But ESPECIALLY when the flange is almost twice as thick, ya know? The longer portion of the stud needs to go as deep into the head as possible, so it's best to carefully remove the studs and then carefully chase the threads and then carefully, slowly, feeling for binding as you go, insert the new ones. I think I paid 27$ for all 8-10 with nuts? One good thing about LCE... when they say "quick shipping", they mean it! lol... Especially if you call them, speak with Wes, he should expedite it for ya, ya knwow?
Best wishes on this, Brian, you'll love it, I know it. OH, yeah, as Jerry also said, ... if you need a gasket, they will ship one with the studs/nuts for pretty cheap.
You WILL, most likely, NEED those studs..... BUT, this doesn't mean that you can't find them at a local store. Napa might be able to help, Pep Boys, etc., but they must be around 1/4" longer, due to the thickness of the flange, as Jerry stated, already, lol. Most often it's recommended to change studs when removing all the nuts after 20 YEARS, anyhow, lol. But ESPECIALLY when the flange is almost twice as thick, ya know? The longer portion of the stud needs to go as deep into the head as possible, so it's best to carefully remove the studs and then carefully chase the threads and then carefully, slowly, feeling for binding as you go, insert the new ones. I think I paid 27$ for all 8-10 with nuts? One good thing about LCE... when they say "quick shipping", they mean it! lol... Especially if you call them, speak with Wes, he should expedite it for ya, ya knwow?
Best wishes on this, Brian, you'll love it, I know it. OH, yeah, as Jerry also said, ... if you need a gasket, they will ship one with the studs/nuts for pretty cheap.
thanks Mark. Yeh..LCE was a pleasure to deal with. I did get one stud that was overlooked by QC and was not threaded on one side, the immediately sent one out after a quick email and got it right fast too. I did have a negative interaction with them when I was looking at a rebuild kit and under the picture it says something like "may not represent...." and when I asked what was included, the reply was "see the picture"....but that was the only negative .
Hmm well to be honest I don't have any experience in changing U-joints so I could not comment.
Oct 3, 2011 | 03:18 AM
#231
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Since you guys LOVE pics, here you go!
This is from apple picking yesterday in New York state.
Lots of mud! The BF Goodrich A/T's held their own even though I HATE them as a tire.
My Co-pilot
This is from apple picking yesterday in New York state.
Lots of mud! The BF Goodrich A/T's held their own even though I HATE them as a tire.
My Co-pilot
Oct 3, 2011 | 06:00 PM
#234
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My KM2's aren't like that!
Oct 3, 2011 | 06:04 PM
#235
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Been doing some searching, and i'm going to try and fit 33x10.5's on stock suspension!
This thread has helped a lot.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f177...-truck-217238/
This thread has helped a lot.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f177...-truck-217238/
Oct 3, 2011 | 07:21 PM
#238
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From: Canon City, Colorado
Been doing some searching, and i'm going to try and fit 33x10.5's on stock suspension!
This thread has helped a lot.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f177...-truck-217238/
This thread has helped a lot.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f177...-truck-217238/
Oct 4, 2011 | 02:22 AM
#239
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Good to hear! Like I said, the guy in the link I posted ran 33x12.5's with only a little pinch weld trimming. And to be honest, I'd rather trim/hammer the pinch weld then crank the t-bars.
Oct 4, 2011 | 02:40 AM
#240
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
On Brandon's, only had to hammer a slight bit on the weld.....in the dark....in the snow. probably coulda been alot more precise if we could have seen what we were doing. and his are 33x 12.5's and stock front suspension. I know that the amount of rub is quite individual based on if they are 12.5's or 10.5's and the amount of offset from the wheels. so, in my opinion, it can be done with little or no modification. gearing is another story though.
