Yeah i think its a tilto-altimeter (ill take a pic later). And thread on installing them!? Linky?? lol

And going to the shop for brake work!!!

 

Next spring, i think i'm going to rebuild the head of my engine and add some get-out-of-my-own-way goodies i.e. cam. Any suggestions on what to get? I was doing a little research and it seems that ENGNBLDR has the best prices and reputation.

 

Brake work? You can do it, Brian... ANYTHING you need done, you can do it, trust me. That's the first things I began with in these repairs, including rebuilding the entire hub, switching over to manual hubs, new calipers and rear cylinders, new rotors, new lug/wheel studs(that is so nice having new ones! .....etc. Never had done any of it before, other than basic brake work....it all came out REALLY good, and stops on a dime.

I would, personally, have the head done. Brakes are one thing...head is really important to get it JUST right. Also, on that end, you have 2 choices.... Either get the Street(Maybe it's just RV) Rv head from Engnbldr, with oversized goodies, etc., and cam of your choice for 480$???? something like that<<. Or, just have your head rebuilt, like I did, with a lil grinding and larger valves,....and BE SURE to swap out your cam BEFOREEEEEEEEE putting it all back in, unlike what I dealt with due to machinist pending retirement-"AHHHH WHATEVER"-syndrome, hahaha. Just have your head built, then talk to Tod at engnbldr(GREAT GUYS, both him and his dad), ....and I'd bet you dollars to donuts, you'd be more happy with the 261 CAM, like I got. The 268, as XXX can attest, is great, but a lil more torquie.....and you have less of a duration(2500-4800rpm or so).. where as the 261, like mine, you have 1500-4800 or so....LOVE that off the line stuff, and it does just fine in top end, where I can actually do 90mph, easy, NO struggling or whining or redlining at all!

So, rebuilt head, (about 200$ or so, + 120$, shipped, for the 261 cam)....

Engnbldr head and cam set up, around 550$ or so to your door, with cam.

Remember, whether you order that set up from Tod and Ted, or have it built and just buy the cam from them, you'll have to get the timing gear back on(I would recommend doing that while your in there, new timing set) and get the cam bolt back in with the CAM-Gear-and Chain all lined up right. So BE SURE, when you pull the head, to have the crank gear lined up properly to TDC on the right stroke, tensioner pushed in with a long screw driver, then cam gear held up by zip tie or bungy cord.....if you're not going to do the timing chain. If you are, then NO WORRIES, you'll have that all off and be able to line it up perfectly before you slap the cover back on. With engnbldr set up, you'll have to install the cam AFTER you get the head back in, etc. Then the rocker assembly, etc. MAKE SURE you get new cam journals done for the new cam(they're very specific to the CAM, in relation to the radius of the cam journals and where it sits inside the head)... this, along with the many tools needed, down time, specifics to the micrometer on the valve guides, seats, seals, etc..... is why you want either a head shop to do the head or have one already set up for a new cam, like with engnbldr's head.

 

Personally, I would rebuild the whole thing, while in there. You're talking around the same cost for the rest of it, if you do it yourself, including the entire motor kit, new pistons, rings, etc., etc., ...... Or, ready to go long block, built to the specifics of engnbldrs head(have the shop slap in the head according to the proper decking, etc). OR, new short block(just have them bore and surface it out for you after tanking it, then you can slap it together with a kit, paint it, and then install either YOUR HEAD, rebuilt, with engnblder cam or engnbldr head and cam.

I chose the long block, do to how many hours I work, etc..... and you see what something as minor(BUT VERY MAJOR) as leaving the original cam in, with a grind, can do to screw up that whole plan with (saving time). If I had a project rig, I'd build it myself, with a conglomoration of parts that I've learned are best, and take my time. But, with my truck, I'd probably go with the long block route again, knowing that if they screw it up, it's on them.(Then again..... I ended up having to do ALL THAT WORK myself, because it was either pull the motor and get it back to them, or do it myself...ya know?)

Lots to think about, but if you're going to do a new head, ....why not take care of the rest, "timing chain kit, engine building kit, etc." while in there,....rather than do all the work of pulling the head, etc., only to have to pull the whole motor, maybe timing chain, etc., down the road in who knows when amount of time, right? And remember, far as the timing chain....how many miles are on it? How good is the tensioner? Are the guides in good shape? ..know what I mean? All the work you've put into this....wouldn't you wanna just DRIVE IT TOYOTA STYLE(FOR A LONG TIME, WITHOUT WORRIES), rather then wonder what's next?

Just a thought.

 

Deleted.....

 

I have been talking to Craig, and i think were going to just fix the brakes ourselves. That way i can save a boat load of money and learn drum brakes in the process.

As far as the engine goes, i don't know if i want to rebuild the whole thing, I guess i can get in there and see how the bottom end looks when replacing the top end. I just don't want to end up spending tons of money on the engine if the bottom end is perfectly fine, ya know? As far as the timing chain goes, that is getting replaced in the spring if not sooner, that needs to be done. Spending around $550 is perfectly fine by me. I haven't really looked into building the bottom end of the motor yet but you think it will cost around another $550? If that's the case i'm gonna have to look into that as that isn't really much money.

As far as cams go, the 261 has a longer duration i assume? And the 268, is very torquey? What exactly do you mean by that? Do you mean the 261 has a smoother torque curve as opposed to the 268? I'm just trying to make sure i get this right.

Once i get the engine all rebuilt this will be a nice truck, i'll be able to go up hills lol. I'd like to be up around the 140hp range if at all possible as opposed to 116hp lol.

Once again thanks for all your help, i greatly appreciate it!

 

Put on my bug deflector and clinometer cover today, made a big difference in looks, looks pretty nice now.

Before


After


And here is the clinometer with the cover.

 

nice man! your rig takes on a new look with them 33s. i like that bug deflector too! looks real good with that bumper.

 

Yeah it's really pretty amazing the difference tires can make. And yeah i like the bug deflector look as well.

 

I fixed the speaker yesterday as well, i just used some Krazy Glue. Works fine

 

4crawler says the bug deflector helps keep the rig stable in high winds. Let me know if you have the same experience.

 

Really? I didn't know that, i'll have to let you know.

 

You know what else that bug deflector helps with? BUGS! hahaha. Actually, Brian, driving through NorCA, through the Sierras, etc., .... the bugs get HUGE and they fly into the lights, but the ones that run high, they skim along the hood or just get sucked into the windshield by aerodynamics..... and if you've ever had to clean several hundred June bugs, 5" Wingspan Butterflies or 6-7" wingspan Emperor Moths off your windshield, once they've dried for a few hundred miles.......IT'S NOT FUN! lol. Plus, all those bugs can mess up your wipers....so all in all, it's a win win, especially if you like the look of it. I've not read any Aerodynamic Test Lab results on Bug Deflectors..... I don't remember mine being so rigid, but I guess it makes sense..... and besides, Roger(4crawler) is an Electronics Expert, and I would assume knows quite a bit about a few other fields of science as well, eh? lol. The Tiltometer is a GREAT add on, Brian... good finds and, personally, I enjoy seeing you add practical and even factory things like that...very cool. Rig is lookin good!

Far as the motor.... Let me help you out here.

http://engnbldr.com/Toyota-Hotlicks.htm

I believe that thing, complete(you don't add 3 CAM's, lol... nor 2 Timing sets of different type, ...ya get me?), adds up to around 400$+a few extras for the motor....pistons, rings, bearing kit, steel guide timing kit w/oil & H20 pump. Personally, I would opt for the OEM HG, like I and many others have.... Not worth haggling over 30$ or so on something so crucial, ya know?

The Head? Well, that's totally up to you, but if you're wanting another 30+horse(trust me, you're NOT getting 116HP out of that thing, as it sits now.... FROM EVERYTHING I've read, I'd guess with high miles, you might be getting 100hp?)<<>>Guys?) .... If you rebuilt, stock, then sure, you might get around that out of it, especially boring it out, etc.. So, to get a good chunk more horses out of it, you're going to want to do a few things....MAYBE, lol.

1. You choose your head route. If you go with the engnbldr second to top head(I believe one is not smogable? lol)...the Street RV, I believe it is.... then add the CAM of your choice, as they state.

2..... Then you want to enable the larger valves and ported head to breath, both sides. Obviously a header COULD help, but Tod and Ted argue about that, from what I've read. Ted(the dad) likes the stock exhaust...Tod, well, he seems to like stock as well, but doesn't seem to like it more than nor shun the idea of opening up the exhaust with a header for "adding more power and GO-GO" capabilities" type application.

3..... But, in order to do that, you need to get more air in, as well, right? People argue about this, alot, but I guess only one could be right, hahaha. One theory is that you need to get the special intake and throttle body, along with the Cold Air Intake Application....However, the other thinks that you could probably be fine with just a bigger air pipe(or battery- AFM swap) and the Supra AFM. I, personally, can feel the difference in just the Cold Air Intake set up from LCE, alone. I DEFINITELY have better "acceleration", more quickly, even before I added the new CAM, as a matter of fact. You wouldn't need to get it from LCE... especially if you're going to do an AFM/Battery swap. But, a larger pipe, if you're not doing that swap, would not be a bad idea to compliment, 1. the Supra AFM, 2. The New or rebuild head with larger valves, bigger CAM and, possibly, header? I also liked the way that LCE designed(and the quality of) the Mounting Apparatus, plus the extra large K&N filter it came with(which is, I believe, 65-70$ itself?). I paid 199$, total, for the whole kit from LCE, shipped, ....and I think it would have cost me around 140$ to do it really well with a nicely machined mounting system, etc. But then again, if doing an AFM/Battery swap..... you just use your stock rubber boot coming off the throttle body and your Supra AFM... THAT scenario would be "problem solved with 'getting all the air you need in', ya know?

Back to the head? ... http://engnbldr.com/head_shop.htm .... You'll have to talk to Tod, but 448$ plus 88$ for the cam of your choice.... well, that's around 536$ if my math is right.... Not sure on the shipping...some things, they ship free. That comes, COMPLETE, ready to slap in, ya know?

If you have a shop near you do your head(lapping and fully cleaning and then installing the new head kit from engnbldr), it might be a bit less... But they'd have to do some work on it beyond the norm to get the oversized valves in, etc.... So you'd have to call and ask. I'm running a stock head with a lil grinding to get the OS valves in, then a couple other things like stainless rocker arm shaft spacers, etc., not the plastic oem ones, ....things like that. The point is, they're starting with YOUR HEAD, so you're saving, right off the bat, as long as it's fine(which I'd imagine yours is, from how it runs, mileage, etc.). Most shops around me would do all that for around 250$, head completely assembled(This of course is minus the 108$ plus shipping for the CAM from Engnbldr)....but it's still 200$, if you want to put that money somewhere else, ya know?

Sorry for being so lengthy, but whatever you do, it SHOULD be something you can plug and play for the next 100,000+ on the timing chain end(possibly HG as well), and possibly 200,000+ on the bottom end engine portion......RIGHT? Ya feel me? Capish? Savay? hahahaha.

So, long and short....broken down.....

1. Head Options:

.....a. Completely Brand New Head from Engnbldr, w/CAM..... $550.00
.....b. Rebuild Head(w/mild machining), w/engnbldr CAM....... $300.00(maybe $350.00)

2. Bottom End Options:

.....a. Complete Rebuild Kit for Bottom end From Engnbldr...........$450.00(maybe $500 w/oem HG)-Incl. Timing Kit
.....b. Complete Short Block, bored 20 over, DONE RIGHT............$900.00 + or -
.....c. Complete HYPO Long Block.........................................$1,4 50.00 + or - ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...item2eb0ee247a )
.....d. ORRRRR, you do some research in your area or your old area, and start piecing it together for a 'DIY' job, with a machine shop doing the block, getting ready for your assembly, decking the block for the Engnbldr head, etc., then you slap the KIT in....or whatever you decide to do.

3. Header(Well, you're the CL junky, maybe 200$? lol.... or)...$300.00(complete Kit from LCE)

4. Air Intake Options:

.....a. Battery/AFM swap(+, U have Supra AFM now) .......... $50.00
.....b. Cold Air Intake Kit from LCE ................................... $199.00(shipped)
.....c. Make your own kit or CL?(w/out battery/AFM swap).... $100.00-$140.00

That's about it, minus whatever others mention on here. I'M NOT SAYING you need to rebuild the entire engine, Brian....but personally, if I'm going to remove LITERALLY EVERYTHING to do a Head Rebuild and Timing Kit.....it's another Hour to remove the block and send it in for tear down, drop tanking and machining for pretty cheap.(OR, as I said, you could just slap a complete short block in for around 600$, maybe less). If you're moving on to the motor, next, and you, like most people, are trying to 'watch the wallet', .....well, maybe just avoid any other purchases for now, and begin planning YOUR ATTACK! HAHAHA. Seems to me you're planning on keeping this rig for a long time.... So if you want to tear it down more than once, depending on when the bottom end gives out(not sure that a new head and plenty of new other goodies wont tax an older lower end or not...might ask more guru type guys on here, like Roger or XXX or otherwise)....then sure, just do the head and a couple other things for now. I looked at it this way... Sure, I might get another 20-40K out of this motor...but I'M GOING TO REBUILD IT, ANYWAY, within 20-40K(THAT IS GENEROUS IMHO, regarding my motors previous cond., hahaha)....then why wait until then? Why not just do the whole thing, now? I know many on here differ in that perspective.... I'm not saying I'm right... Just that it WAS right for me. I wanted to "get it all over with, as much as possible, one shot"... ya know?

Sorry for taking up so much space, lol... Just thought, maybe it's a good time to discuss this on your thread, since YOU are the one that will have to make the final decisions, right?

I know I forgot something, but I'll add it later, then edit the post.

Best wishes, Brian,

Mark

 

Far as the CAM....

the 261 has an EARLIER CURVE or 'extra' Duration from stock, which lasts longer(1500-4500 rpm)

the 268 has a later starting curve of 'extra' duration from stock, which goes from around 2500-4800), give or take.

I'd ask XXX what he thinks.... He has the 268 from engnbldr. I think he's wishing he got the 261, but you'll have to ask him that, to be sure. I personally love the extra get up I get from it, and I DO get up hills better, no doubt.... as I'm sure XXX does as well. However, I get off the line with a lil more pep, and then on through the RPM range, up to 4500 or so, and I can do 90mph, no problem. Maybe the 268 is more like 2500-4800, ....but what I've heard is, quite a few people are not liking that it takes a bit longer to "KICK IN", if you know what I mean. I think XXX or Thook or someone like that could explain the whole DURATION process and applications much better than myself, Brian.... I'm still learning. But, it keeps the valves open a bit longer and for a specific amount of time related to the grind they do(260, 261, 268, 270, 271, etc.)... the later numbers, I've heard MUCH MORE complaining than "WOW, THIS IS THE BEST ONE I'VE EVER HAD!".... so I would think the best person to speak with, to be honest, would be Tod. He is a VERY nice, very honest guy, and he will DEFINITELY NOT try to sell you something.... He helped me MANY times, and I'm glad that I took his advice, to be honest. This is what he does, ALL DAY, and they, in fact, have their own CAM and Head Castings, from what I understand.... so they're not just some "China stuff with a grind or porting job" type gear....it's really, actually, good stuff! lol.

 

^ damn

I bet that is the short version too

 

as of right now I am not the best to ask about the 268, my block was shaved down so my cam timing I know is not "perfect". I don't know if it's affecting my low end at all, but I do have an issue going up mountains in 5th and somewhat in 4th. No power below I'd say 2500 RPM in higher gears, but I am on 31's and 4.10's as well. But I can light the tires up pretty well when I dump the clutch at about 3,000 RPM lol.

So to be fair on EB I will refrain from giving that cam a bad name till I get my LCE cam gear to dial in the cam where it should be. I think right now it's probably about 2-3 degrees retarded. Where from my research for optimal low end torque should be around 2-3 degrees advanced. (talking cam timing here and not ignition timing). Also remember I am a carb'd motor as well so it will react differently than an RE motor will to the cam as well.

I am not sure as noone on here or anywhere else has been able to solidify how many degrees this cam get retarded when shaving the block a said amount.

I am also unable to advance my timing more than 1-2 degrees without the motor running like crap above about 2500 RPM. I am sure the cam timing plays a part in that issue to.

 

Hahahaha.... Yeah, sorry man.... If that was too much, I apologize... Just trying to cover everything, as I KNOW what it's like to be a visual person and trying to make such a major decision.... ya know? lol. Plus, I noticed on my thread, when I started, I was getting it in bits and pieces... and I can't speak for anyone else, but it was just confusing to me, lol.

I'll edit it if Brian wants me to, lol.

PS> XXX, I PROMISE, I'm not dogging that CAM... I KNOW it has it's practical applications, and for some, especially those that do more crazy wheeling, it might even be better. I can only say what I've read, by others experiences. Seems like more than you are saying, for THEIR application(80-90% hwy-street, 20-10% off road), the 261 seems to work better.

Like I said, YOU know more about that stuff than me..... So give him the goods, homie! lol.

 

Wow that's A LOT of info to take in lol I had to read this 3 times before i could process it all. Lets see if i got this straight;

1. I'm liking the idea of a brand new head with cam straight from ENGNBLDR that way i know the head is done right and everything will work. Do they carry a warranty on parts?

2. As for the bottom end i'd love a complete long block but i can't afford to drop $1500 on the motor. Even the $900 short block is pricey so it looks like the rebuild kit with OE head gasket and timing kit is the best, but im not ruling out the short block just yet.

3. Headers, there are 2 or 3 options for the 22-RE aren't there? Doug Thortley, LCE, Pacesetter i feel like im forgetting some. I'll find one that's no big deal.

4. Intake, I have the Supra AFM already and i already have an intake. Does swapping the battery and AFM really make that much of a difference?

5. Cam, i did a little research and it seems to me that the 261 is the best bet, most of my driving is in the lower RPM's anyway and that's where the cam would need to be to be most effective.

thanks for all the info i greatly appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I'm gonna shoot an email over to ENGNBLDR and see what they have to say.

Thanks again!

 

Do you guys think it'd be easier to order the rear disc brake conversion kit instead of trying to mess with the drums?

 

another header to look at is a obx headers on ebay. they apparently have the cost of pacesetter but are better quality