Swimmerboy2112's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread
Nov 24, 2010 | 07:57 AM
#1601
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From: Walnutport, PA
Hey Brian, ....
I was in the process of doing a really nice, simple "Hooking up Offroad lights to Grill/Bumper Bar 'For Dummies' " thread, ........because that's what I was when it came to this stuff, .....just days ago! hahaha. I'm a very visual learner, so I have a plan to lay it all out, step by step, starting with "Which lights? Very important", .....then, "What type of switch?", .....then, "Which type of relay/'Dual Relays, joined with the 87A pin?", etc., etc. ..... with tons of pics and a good video.... BUT, ...I'm just too busy until Thanksgiving is over.
I've read TONS of articles, etc., pertaining to off road lights.... and MOST that really sounded solid in knowledge and obviously used/hooked them up/tested many of them, personally, said, "Lights on the grill/light bar on bumper are far more useful and effective, first. Roof lights can also be very useful, but start with the front"..... This one Aussie expert was also explaining that he wanted to have a Quick-Disconnect for the top lights, ....because, well, in the outback coastal stuff, he often ripped them off when testing, etc....so, he wanted to have an easy option for quick-release for those trips into the woods/jungle type atmosphere, hahaha.
Anyway, I might have time, tonight, to finish writing/constructing the thread, ....but if Ian is doing one(a much more electronically apt person than myself, lol)....then you might not have to wait for that 'extra visual aid', hahaha. I'm going to do a video walk through TOTALLY unlike those I've found on Youtube...THEY'RE AWEFUL, almost every single one that I found left me asking, "WAIT.....WHAT?????" LOL. Plus, most of them were done VERY messy.
For example.... I ran my switch wire to relay under the carpet, then through the fender plug/rubber grommet for the antenna, up to the harness entry behind the battery, then heat shrunk it in with the 'positive terminal wire to 30 PIN' wire. ALL CLEAN! lol. I also taped of every inch of the flex loom that I didn't use heat shrink on(heat shrink is best, because it has double layers inside with glue, etc.... and it LITERALLY seals, totally, the wiring and solder connections). I kept the ground short, under the inner fender well lip, etc...
Anyway, I'm working on how I'll do the video, the links I'll post to diagrams, etc., and then some bullets with all the GREAT points and 'THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR' points that all the good guys on my thread provided. I just can't get to it until tonight or tomorrow night, lol. I'm doing an alarm soon, too, but might have it done(they do it for almost free in Los Angeles, hoping you'll buy LOTS OF GOODIES from them, lol).
Sorry bout the speakers, bud! STINKS!
I was in the process of doing a really nice, simple "Hooking up Offroad lights to Grill/Bumper Bar 'For Dummies' " thread, ........because that's what I was when it came to this stuff, .....just days ago! hahaha. I'm a very visual learner, so I have a plan to lay it all out, step by step, starting with "Which lights? Very important", .....then, "What type of switch?", .....then, "Which type of relay/'Dual Relays, joined with the 87A pin?", etc., etc. ..... with tons of pics and a good video.... BUT, ...I'm just too busy until Thanksgiving is over.
I've read TONS of articles, etc., pertaining to off road lights.... and MOST that really sounded solid in knowledge and obviously used/hooked them up/tested many of them, personally, said, "Lights on the grill/light bar on bumper are far more useful and effective, first. Roof lights can also be very useful, but start with the front"..... This one Aussie expert was also explaining that he wanted to have a Quick-Disconnect for the top lights, ....because, well, in the outback coastal stuff, he often ripped them off when testing, etc....so, he wanted to have an easy option for quick-release for those trips into the woods/jungle type atmosphere, hahaha.
Anyway, I might have time, tonight, to finish writing/constructing the thread, ....but if Ian is doing one(a much more electronically apt person than myself, lol)....then you might not have to wait for that 'extra visual aid', hahaha. I'm going to do a video walk through TOTALLY unlike those I've found on Youtube...THEY'RE AWEFUL, almost every single one that I found left me asking, "WAIT.....WHAT?????" LOL. Plus, most of them were done VERY messy.
For example.... I ran my switch wire to relay under the carpet, then through the fender plug/rubber grommet for the antenna, up to the harness entry behind the battery, then heat shrunk it in with the 'positive terminal wire to 30 PIN' wire. ALL CLEAN! lol. I also taped of every inch of the flex loom that I didn't use heat shrink on(heat shrink is best, because it has double layers inside with glue, etc.... and it LITERALLY seals, totally, the wiring and solder connections). I kept the ground short, under the inner fender well lip, etc...
Anyway, I'm working on how I'll do the video, the links I'll post to diagrams, etc., and then some bullets with all the GREAT points and 'THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR' points that all the good guys on my thread provided. I just can't get to it until tonight or tomorrow night, lol. I'm doing an alarm soon, too, but might have it done(they do it for almost free in Los Angeles, hoping you'll buy LOTS OF GOODIES from them, lol).
Sorry bout the speakers, bud! STINKS!
Nov 24, 2010 | 08:03 AM
#1602
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From: Walnutport, PA
PS> I'm not arguing with Ian,.....but I will say that IT WAS NOT easy, regarding 'routing' and 'remembering which sequence to slip on heat shrink, etc.', 'where you allow a port for a wire to come out of the loom', 'soldering in certain situations where you can't really do it out of the truck'.... things like that..... but YES, it was MUCH easier than I'd originally considered it....You just need 'TIME' and to remember,...."once you get started, you might not be able to drive it if you can't finish it up quickly.
One thing I would have done different to avoid that, .....I would have waited to do the wiring to the lights, themselves, till the very last step. Even then, I'd have tested them first, before I mounted and flex loomed them in behind the light housing, etc. I didn't wanna cut anything, so I ended up having to leave them hooked up....which meant I couldn't drive it(CA law men are REALLY anal about the 'lights without covers' thingymadoer law! lol.
One thing I would have done different to avoid that, .....I would have waited to do the wiring to the lights, themselves, till the very last step. Even then, I'd have tested them first, before I mounted and flex loomed them in behind the light housing, etc. I didn't wanna cut anything, so I ended up having to leave them hooked up....which meant I couldn't drive it(CA law men are REALLY anal about the 'lights without covers' thingymadoer law! lol.
Nov 24, 2010 | 08:31 AM
#1605
Wellllllllllll, lol... I disagree, to some extent. NO, it's not difficult to push wire through, etc. But, when you're joining 2, together, then running them through flex loom(much thicker at that point), then you're bound to have a couple of "OH C'MONNNNNNNNNNNN MANNNNNNN!" moments, lol.
Plus, I think Ian is speaking of the 'ENTIRE ROUTING' layout.... Which takes some real planning, ....IF you wanna do it as cleanly and properly as possible.
Plus, I think Ian is speaking of the 'ENTIRE ROUTING' layout.... Which takes some real planning, ....IF you wanna do it as cleanly and properly as possible.
Nov 24, 2010 | 08:36 AM
#1606
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From: Walnutport, PA
Wellllllllllll, lol... I disagree, to some extent. NO, it's not difficult to push wire through, etc. But, when you're joining 2, together, then running them through flex loom(much thicker at that point), then you're bound to have a couple of "OH C'MONNNNNNNNNNNN MANNNNNNN!" moments, lol.
Plus, I think Ian is speaking of the 'ENTIRE ROUTING' layout.... Which takes some real planning, ....IF you wanna do it as cleanly and properly as possible.
Plus, I think Ian is speaking of the 'ENTIRE ROUTING' layout.... Which takes some real planning, ....IF you wanna do it as cleanly and properly as possible.
Nov 24, 2010 | 08:41 AM
#1607
yes. i don't wanna have wires hanging off of my roof, and i'm leery about running them through the weather seal around the windows (leaking). i might be able to find somewhere on the rear side windows... time to go measure
Nov 24, 2010 | 08:42 AM
#1608
1. Lights
2. Relay/s
3. Plenty of wire(10G, 14G)(4-5 Different colors--Not required, as long as you mark everything)
4. Add-a-Line(dual open fuse end and one end plugs into your fuse block under the driver kick panel)
5. Plenty of heat Shrink(3/8", 1/2", 1/4")... and I even got some 'tapered' sections(they're smaller at one end than the other)
6. Switch(easy to change out later...but get the one you want, and pick a GOOD ONE, not some cheap china crap.... at least get good China Crap! hahaha)
7. Female/Spade Connectors(10G and 14G)
8. Weatherproof Butt Connectors(for where you can't/don't want to solder) GET WEATHERPROOF ONES)
9. Inline Fuse(10-12G at least)..(Weatherproof auto fuse type with wires out of each end)....keep it within a foot of the battery, NO MORE.
10. Plenty of Electrical Tape
11. Pick a GOOD QUALITY 10G Hoop Connector for Battery Post Add on(I had to drill mine out a lil to fit the wing nut stud on top)
12. Plenty of Flex Loom(2 Different sizes, one 1/2" and one 1/4".... I BELIEVE...I'd have to check)
13. Good Rosin Solder w/flux and Solder Iron
14. Good Crimper/Cutter/Stripper tool
That should be everything you need to do it the way I did. I'm sure Ian will point out some better options for some of it, as well.
2. Relay/s
3. Plenty of wire(10G, 14G)(4-5 Different colors--Not required, as long as you mark everything)
4. Add-a-Line(dual open fuse end and one end plugs into your fuse block under the driver kick panel)
5. Plenty of heat Shrink(3/8", 1/2", 1/4")... and I even got some 'tapered' sections(they're smaller at one end than the other)
6. Switch(easy to change out later...but get the one you want, and pick a GOOD ONE, not some cheap china crap.... at least get good China Crap! hahaha)
7. Female/Spade Connectors(10G and 14G)
8. Weatherproof Butt Connectors(for where you can't/don't want to solder) GET WEATHERPROOF ONES)
9. Inline Fuse(10-12G at least)..(Weatherproof auto fuse type with wires out of each end)....keep it within a foot of the battery, NO MORE.
10. Plenty of Electrical Tape
11. Pick a GOOD QUALITY 10G Hoop Connector for Battery Post Add on(I had to drill mine out a lil to fit the wing nut stud on top)
12. Plenty of Flex Loom(2 Different sizes, one 1/2" and one 1/4".... I BELIEVE...I'd have to check)
13. Good Rosin Solder w/flux and Solder Iron
14. Good Crimper/Cutter/Stripper tool
That should be everything you need to do it the way I did. I'm sure Ian will point out some better options for some of it, as well.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Nov 24, 2010 at 08:43 AM.
Nov 24, 2010 | 08:43 AM
#1609
Nov 24, 2010 | 08:45 AM
#1610
YOU WONT, homie... Just check my thread for my mistakes, and when I post the video of step by steps.... you'll see what can cause it not to work(I.e.; Not putting the second fuse in the 'Add-a-Line') Mine worked the very first time, and only reason it didn't at first? I forgot that fuse.(that fuse allows current through the power wire to the switch!lol. Without it, NO GO GO! hehe. )
Nov 24, 2010 | 08:47 AM
#1612
Nov 24, 2010 | 08:48 AM
#1613
Nov 24, 2010 | 08:53 AM
#1615
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From: Walnutport, PA
From the light bar i'm running them down through the weatherstripping that the shell goes on. Then from there to the panel behind the passenger seat, then to the door jam panel (idk how else to describe it) then up behind the glove box to the location of my switch (not sure where yet).
Nov 24, 2010 | 08:53 AM
#1616
@mark- 
ok. yeah, you have the cap. forgot about that
From the light bar i'm running them down through the weatherstripping that the shell goes on. Then from there to the panel behind the passenger seat, then to the door jam panel (idk how else to describe it) then up behind the glove box to the location of my switch (not sure where yet).
Last edited by irab88; Nov 24, 2010 at 08:55 AM.
Nov 24, 2010 | 08:55 AM
#1617
CRUCIAL! Brian... I ran mine through the wiring grommet behind the battery on the fender inner-well...then fastened it to the harness that runs inside the fender(YOU HAVE to remove the fender plastic/splash guard....just like when you need to get to the antenna).... Then, I ran it up through the lil rubber grommet that allows the antenna/wiring in(not sure if you have an electrical antenna, but you can get those grommets, even if you don't, from Metra--probably in the AutoZone or something)....Then, ran it under the carpet toward the top and then through behind the stereo and plugged it into my switch, which I found easily mounts in the 'TABS' above the stereo/below the lighter...>>> know what I mean? The wiring to the relay, that's now coming out of the fender behind the battery, you then run with the 10G wire, together, inside some heat shrink and loom on top, from your battery to the relay. Just a thought, lol. I didn't wanna EVEN MESS with my main/ecu harness hole! NO THANKS! LOL....But you could, if you were careful. I just don't like messing with 23YR old wiring and their grommets! lol.
Nov 24, 2010 | 09:13 AM
#1619
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From: Walnutport, PA
CRUCIAL! Brian... I ran mine through the wiring grommet behind the battery on the fender inner-well...then fastened it to the harness that runs inside the fender(YOU HAVE to remove the fender plastic/splash guard....just like when you need to get to the antenna).... Then, I ran it up through the lil rubber grommet that allows the antenna/wiring in(not sure if you have an electrical antenna, but you can get those grommets, even if you don't, from Metra--probably in the AutoZone or something)....Then, ran it under the carpet toward the top and then through behind the stereo and plugged it into my switch, which I found easily mounts in the 'TABS' above the stereo/below the lighter...>>> know what I mean? The wiring to the relay, that's now coming out of the fender behind the battery, you then run with the 10G wire, together, inside some heat shrink and loom on top, from your battery to the relay. Just a thought, lol. I didn't wanna EVEN MESS with my main/ecu harness hole! NO THANKS! LOL....But you could, if you were careful. I just don't like messing with 23YR old wiring and their grommets! lol.
Nov 24, 2010 | 02:59 PM
#1620
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Relays are really simple if you can visualize them. Pin 85 is your switched power source (like your keyed 12V or your switch itself). Pin 86 runs straight to ground. Pin 30 is your power source, usually straight from the battery pos. Pin 87 runs to your accessory that you're installing. When you turn on power to Pin 85, Pin 87 gets power. If you're running a 5-Pin Relay, just ignore Pin 87a.
Unless you want something to recieve power when the switch is off...
Here's a diagram:
This is depicted with Pin 85 receiving power.
Unless you want something to recieve power when the switch is off...
Here's a diagram:
This is depicted with Pin 85 receiving power.
