Swimmerboy2112's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread
Jul 15, 2010 | 07:48 PM
#543
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 128
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From: Norwich, CT
There should only be two wires on your starter, the large ground that bolts on and the little one that plugs in the front. you may want to shim the plug a little of it's loose, mine was always very loose and sometimes i had to go wiggle it to get a connection. is your relay still working? the little box bolted on the passenger side fender well, behind the fuse box? it should make an audible clicking noise when you try to start. there's another one in the fuse panel that's right in front of the drivers door. it doesn't click, but i'm sure there's a way to test it with a multimeter.
Jul 16, 2010 | 12:03 AM
#544
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From: Walnutport, PA
There should only be two wires on your starter, the large ground that bolts on and the little one that plugs in the front. you may want to shim the plug a little of it's loose, mine was always very loose and sometimes i had to go wiggle it to get a connection. is your relay still working? the little box bolted on the passenger side fender well, behind the fuse box? it should make an audible clicking noise when you try to start. there's another one in the fuse panel that's right in front of the drivers door. it doesn't click, but i'm sure there's a way to test it with a multimeter.
Jul 16, 2010 | 10:29 AM
#547
Brian,
Regarding the drain tube, ....already mentioned by MF.
Regarding 'replacing the relay', ...you really need to begin a multi-meter P.O.E.
1. There is a P.O.E. for the relays by ohm testing them out(For the C.O.R., Main, etc.)
2. You VERY LIKELY have either a short or a blown inline fuse/relay, and you need to find it.
3. I've mentioned the 'grounds' and 'connections' for the Alternator and Starter 3 times, and you need to be CERTAIN they're cleaned up, AND, ....a. Actually grounding... b. Connectors are CLEAN and NOT containing prongs that are backing out the back of the connector housing.(BOTH can cause either a short and subsequently in-operation)
4. Check the CB wiring for constant pull with multi-meter. IGNORE that it's connected to the lighter, and ASSUME, until you prove otherwise, that the 'auxiliary hub' where that lighter is connected is, for some reason, 'constant' or 'open'.(Not likely, but at this point, ...wth, eh?)
5. MF is RIGHT! You can have 40 good alternators/starters, one after the other, blowing diodes or, rather, reading 'GOOD' at Autozone, ....but IF THEY'RE WIRING or relays are bad, .....YOU'RE GOING NOWHERE, ...and thus, you're stumped, wondering why you have "GOOD" parts and "NO GO-GO", comprende?
You HAVE to trace the wiring back from the Alternator and Starter, including the grounds, Fuse Panels, Relays and 'FIND THE SOURCE' of your in-operation.
An example; A guy on here, I believe his name is "Superdave---something", .... He dug and dug and eventually, he found his C.O.R. was fine from the outside, in appearance...but when he tore it out, it looked a lil corroded. Cleaned it up, ...NOTHING. OPENED up the C.O.R., .....and VOILA, ...it was COMPLETELY corroded inside, causing arching, etc. The cause; He found a small leak through a rusty seam in the windshield......it was leaking down, very small leak, and dripping RIGHT ON the C.O.R.! He pulled the panel, cleaned it up, replaced the C.O.R., ...as I said, 'VOILA'!
Have you READ the sections that I'd recommended you 'absorb into the brain pan'??? The reason I ask? ;
Section 5-1, Engine Electrical Systems:
A. Ignition System
B. Dizzy
C. Ignition Coil
D. Aternator
It goes on to describe EVERYTHING, which will save you tons of time, Brian. For one, it explains how to test the Starter in the Vehicle(which is often the best test, ..Why? Because it can lead you to a possible drain, bad grounding wire, bad connection in wiring....ETC. Same with the Alternator.
PAGE 4-9; Circuit Opening Relay:
A. VERY IMPORTANT that it's reading properly with a multi-meter. It CAN cause you to have NO 'click, click' IF IT'S BAD.
Start, FIRST, with reading up, Brian, so that you will understand how things work. Could be a faulty ignition component, SURE! ...But you need to be sure by running Ohm and Voltage Tests on EVERYTHING involved, ....which is really just a few things in order for it to "power up" and "Turn over" and "Ignite" and "STAY RUNNING" once it does ignite.
PS> HOW did the power wire from the Engine bay fuse panel get loose? If it was 'at the battery', might not be a problem, just due to your removing the battery,...sure. But you need to BE SURE that that same power wire didn't ground out in the Engine Bay fuse Box and cause a break, loose connection(frayed wiring due to short), inline fuse(IN THE WIRE), or otherwise. While you're at it?.... CLEAN UP OR REPLACE all the wiring/grounds that look 'questionable' if you can..... Check, first, for a BAD GROUND from battery to block, ok?
Regarding the drain tube, ....already mentioned by MF.
Regarding 'replacing the relay', ...you really need to begin a multi-meter P.O.E.
1. There is a P.O.E. for the relays by ohm testing them out(For the C.O.R., Main, etc.)
2. You VERY LIKELY have either a short or a blown inline fuse/relay, and you need to find it.
3. I've mentioned the 'grounds' and 'connections' for the Alternator and Starter 3 times, and you need to be CERTAIN they're cleaned up, AND, ....a. Actually grounding... b. Connectors are CLEAN and NOT containing prongs that are backing out the back of the connector housing.(BOTH can cause either a short and subsequently in-operation)
4. Check the CB wiring for constant pull with multi-meter. IGNORE that it's connected to the lighter, and ASSUME, until you prove otherwise, that the 'auxiliary hub' where that lighter is connected is, for some reason, 'constant' or 'open'.(Not likely, but at this point, ...wth, eh?)
5. MF is RIGHT! You can have 40 good alternators/starters, one after the other, blowing diodes or, rather, reading 'GOOD' at Autozone, ....but IF THEY'RE WIRING or relays are bad, .....YOU'RE GOING NOWHERE, ...and thus, you're stumped, wondering why you have "GOOD" parts and "NO GO-GO", comprende?
You HAVE to trace the wiring back from the Alternator and Starter, including the grounds, Fuse Panels, Relays and 'FIND THE SOURCE' of your in-operation.
An example; A guy on here, I believe his name is "Superdave---something", .... He dug and dug and eventually, he found his C.O.R. was fine from the outside, in appearance...but when he tore it out, it looked a lil corroded. Cleaned it up, ...NOTHING. OPENED up the C.O.R., .....and VOILA, ...it was COMPLETELY corroded inside, causing arching, etc. The cause; He found a small leak through a rusty seam in the windshield......it was leaking down, very small leak, and dripping RIGHT ON the C.O.R.! He pulled the panel, cleaned it up, replaced the C.O.R., ...as I said, 'VOILA'!
Have you READ the sections that I'd recommended you 'absorb into the brain pan'??? The reason I ask? ;
Section 5-1, Engine Electrical Systems:
A. Ignition System
B. Dizzy
C. Ignition Coil
D. Aternator
It goes on to describe EVERYTHING, which will save you tons of time, Brian. For one, it explains how to test the Starter in the Vehicle(which is often the best test, ..Why? Because it can lead you to a possible drain, bad grounding wire, bad connection in wiring....ETC. Same with the Alternator.
PAGE 4-9; Circuit Opening Relay:
A. VERY IMPORTANT that it's reading properly with a multi-meter. It CAN cause you to have NO 'click, click' IF IT'S BAD.
Start, FIRST, with reading up, Brian, so that you will understand how things work. Could be a faulty ignition component, SURE! ...But you need to be sure by running Ohm and Voltage Tests on EVERYTHING involved, ....which is really just a few things in order for it to "power up" and "Turn over" and "Ignite" and "STAY RUNNING" once it does ignite.
PS> HOW did the power wire from the Engine bay fuse panel get loose? If it was 'at the battery', might not be a problem, just due to your removing the battery,...sure. But you need to BE SURE that that same power wire didn't ground out in the Engine Bay fuse Box and cause a break, loose connection(frayed wiring due to short), inline fuse(IN THE WIRE), or otherwise. While you're at it?.... CLEAN UP OR REPLACE all the wiring/grounds that look 'questionable' if you can..... Check, first, for a BAD GROUND from battery to block, ok?
Jul 16, 2010 | 11:01 AM
#549
Lol, ...I know how that feels, bro! Fhewwwwwww!
The C.O.R. read out fine? The Main Relay? Etc., etc.?
Hmmmmm, ....well, if worse comes to worse, you can always check your 'network' around you and see if anyone else has some ideas or is willing to test out some things for ya. It's just that, ...well, it seems like either something got grounded, wired up wrong or you've just, by coincidence, developed a sudden short/bad connection/corroded connection/bad inline fuse/bad relay, .......etc.
The C.O.R. read out fine? The Main Relay? Etc., etc.?
Hmmmmm, ....well, if worse comes to worse, you can always check your 'network' around you and see if anyone else has some ideas or is willing to test out some things for ya. It's just that, ...well, it seems like either something got grounded, wired up wrong or you've just, by coincidence, developed a sudden short/bad connection/corroded connection/bad inline fuse/bad relay, .......etc.
Jul 16, 2010 | 11:04 AM
#550
PS> The C.O.R. is in Section 4, the Fuel Systems section..., but I'm guessing, if anything, the C.O.R., if not working, was blown by some surge in the system. You got some weird symptoms going on, and I wouldn't put it past a short to fry your C.O.R./ Starter Relay.
Jul 16, 2010 | 11:07 AM
#551
Real quick......
Not meaning to question your wiring skills, Brian, honest... But personally, I would remove the CB wiring, for now, and see if, by some freak chance, the CB, itself, or the wiring therein, is causing the problem. If I remember, it's not that difficult to hook up, right? So just remove it and get the wiring back the way it was, .....then see if it's the cause for a 2 TIMES blowing of the fuse(and maybe more), etc.
Just a thought, take it or leave it. lol.
Not meaning to question your wiring skills, Brian, honest... But personally, I would remove the CB wiring, for now, and see if, by some freak chance, the CB, itself, or the wiring therein, is causing the problem. If I remember, it's not that difficult to hook up, right? So just remove it and get the wiring back the way it was, .....then see if it's the cause for a 2 TIMES blowing of the fuse(and maybe more), etc.
Just a thought, take it or leave it. lol.
Jul 16, 2010 | 11:39 AM
#553
NOTHING wrong with that, Brian!
Just make sure of one thing, ....Without annoying him, if he'll let you, TAKE PART and 'WATCH' what he goes through. What he'll likely do is try to Track Back through all the 'possibilities' that could cause this issue. .....would be really nice to be a fly on the wall during this process, wouldn't it?
PS> Could just TRY to remove the CB, double check all the wiring where you were working to install it, and JUST SEE if it doesn't reveal a short or something, ...right? Did the CB fuse blow again? That's a really easy thing to do, Brian, ..just to remove it and see, ...know what I mean? Heck, worst case scenario, you have to re-wire it. Best case?... It solves your problem, or part of it. I've always wired things like this to the Auxiliary panel, ...not sure how different it is to wire it to the lighter. Has it worked, since you've installed it?
Just make sure of one thing, ....Without annoying him, if he'll let you, TAKE PART and 'WATCH' what he goes through. What he'll likely do is try to Track Back through all the 'possibilities' that could cause this issue. .....would be really nice to be a fly on the wall during this process, wouldn't it?
PS> Could just TRY to remove the CB, double check all the wiring where you were working to install it, and JUST SEE if it doesn't reveal a short or something, ...right? Did the CB fuse blow again? That's a really easy thing to do, Brian, ..just to remove it and see, ...know what I mean? Heck, worst case scenario, you have to re-wire it. Best case?... It solves your problem, or part of it. I've always wired things like this to the Auxiliary panel, ...not sure how different it is to wire it to the lighter. Has it worked, since you've installed it?
Jul 16, 2010 | 01:41 PM
#554
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 348
Likes: 0
From: SE PA.
brian do a search for a wiring diagram and test with a testlight if you do not have a meter start at batt go to fuse box and so on you have to trace the power like it was water in a hose see where you stop having water then you will know what area the hose is kinked at it is not hard but guessing and guessing will take forever . remember you can not see electric with out a test light or a meter.
Last edited by mfwimg82; Jul 16, 2010 at 01:43 PM.
Jul 16, 2010 | 01:58 PM
#555
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 3
From: Walnutport, PA
NOTHING wrong with that, Brian!
Just make sure of one thing, ....Without annoying him, if he'll let you, TAKE PART and 'WATCH' what he goes through. What he'll likely do is try to Track Back through all the 'possibilities' that could cause this issue. .....would be really nice to be a fly on the wall during this process, wouldn't it?
PS> Could just TRY to remove the CB, double check all the wiring where you were working to install it, and JUST SEE if it doesn't reveal a short or something, ...right? Did the CB fuse blow again? That's a really easy thing to do, Brian, ..just to remove it and see, ...know what I mean? Heck, worst case scenario, you have to re-wire it. Best case?... It solves your problem, or part of it. I've always wired things like this to the Auxiliary panel, ...not sure how different it is to wire it to the lighter. Has it worked, since you've installed it?
Just make sure of one thing, ....Without annoying him, if he'll let you, TAKE PART and 'WATCH' what he goes through. What he'll likely do is try to Track Back through all the 'possibilities' that could cause this issue. .....would be really nice to be a fly on the wall during this process, wouldn't it?
PS> Could just TRY to remove the CB, double check all the wiring where you were working to install it, and JUST SEE if it doesn't reveal a short or something, ...right? Did the CB fuse blow again? That's a really easy thing to do, Brian, ..just to remove it and see, ...know what I mean? Heck, worst case scenario, you have to re-wire it. Best case?... It solves your problem, or part of it. I've always wired things like this to the Auxiliary panel, ...not sure how different it is to wire it to the lighter. Has it worked, since you've installed it?
brian do a search for a wiring diagram and test with a testlight if you do not have a meter start at batt go to fuse box and so on you have to trace the power like it was water in a hose see where you stop having water then you will know what area the hose is kinked at it is not hard but guessing and guessing will take forever . remember you can not see electric with out a test light or a meter.
