DANGGGGGGGG! BLESSED! LOL.

Ok, this is 6 miles from your Zip, Brian,........
http://www.teamtoyota.net/parts/index.htm

If you want, you can order through them, make sure that you're getting like 20% off, AT LEAST, and then compare their price with Carson, CA Toyota, etc., ....k? You have to fish around from that link, above, ...but that's for what says it's 6.4 Miles from your Zip, 18940, in Langhorn, PA> Here is a link for ALL of the local ones near you....
http://www.toyotaownersonline.com/Ow...rigin=external

Sometimes it helps to call them up, tell them, "Hey, it's like 40$ less on your site...what gives?" .....I did that with mine, and they honor EVERY deal I find with Carson Toyota..... Because they want my biz and they KNOW I'm like 20 Miles closer to them, in Torrance, CA.... Get what I'm saying? EVEN TOYOTA DEALERSHIPS WILL BARGAIN or give you an account, if you're nice, ambitious, courteous and respectful.......or maybe just if you ask. I have an account now, and EVERYTHING I order is 20% off....and Brian, ....when you're buying something that's 500$....uhhhhh, lol, yeah, that's 100$!!!!!

Best wishes, ...GO GET EM!

PS> Do you NEED a new Alternator? You can have yours tested at Autozone for free!

 

Thanks for that first link but its actually 60 miles away, (which is still close). And about bargaining, im the master lol. Got my truck down from $1500 to $491 and my car from $10,000 to $5,500.
And yes i need a new alternator i got it tested and it said the diode was bad.

 

oH YEAHHH, that's right(the diode thing),...sorry, I'd forgotten in all the excitement of "SHOPPING FOR OEM PARTS WITH A YOTA-HOMIE!" hahaha.

Right on, Brian! Yeah, they don't bargain "MUCH", ..but they will at least give you 20% off if you ask. They WILL NOT match any unauthorized or aftermarket stuff on price. But hey, any discount is a good discount, eh? I'm sure Toyota sells just the diode and I KNOW they sell kits for the Alternator. I saw it on the Carson Toyota Site. You'll have to find the official site for YOUR closest dealer, ...get a feel for how fair they are, and then HEAD THERE, ...because, after all, it could save you 20$ in shipping or so. If only 10$ or so, ...heck, HAVE IT SHIPPED, ..you'd pay more than that in GAS, YA KNOW? HAHHA.

 

haha i hear ya man, i headed down to AutoZone and just picked up a Duralast alternator because they had it in stock. I'm still going to rebuild the old alternator.

 

Old one out, new one in!

 

dang i went to the beach for 5 days and i feel like i missed a bunch. lol i cant wait to see the paint to man. just came from outside getting mine ready for paint tomorrow. but swimmer i just skimmed through the last pages but did you order your lift and what gears are in those diffs?

 

Hey man, beach must be nice lol too bad i gotta work. The only things you missed were my alternator crapping out on me, me fixing it and me picking up a set of 4.56 gears. I haven't ordered the lift yet, but i think i'm going to order it in a day or 2.

 

***Help please***

Ok, so i recently bought a new battery (2 days ago) because my alternator went bad and it gave me an excuse to put in a new battery as mine was on its way out. I drove to Harrisburg (90 miles) and back (another 90) just compression starting to get the car going. So today i bought a new alternator and installed it. I made sure I plugged in the wire and connected the ground. I took my other car and used it to jump the truck to start it. It started and i decided to take a 45 minute drive to allow the alternator to charge the battery. I got home shut off the truck and tried to turn it back on and…nothing. What's going on? Is my new battery already dead? That's all i can think of.

 

Hmmmmm, .....I suppose it COULD be low to the point it needs to be charged on an actual charger, ...but I doubt it. If you drove around all that time, it's usually charged. What COULD have happened(NOTE: i SAID COULD! LOL)....is that you blew the 80Amp Fuse for the alternator in the fuse Box/Pass. side/engine bay. If so, you drove around on your battery for a while, killed the motor, leaving NO WHERE NEAR enough juice to turn it over. The Alternator is 60amps, right? Well, usually, a GOOD battery is around 90 CCA(cold cranking amps)....I could be off on that, but I would imagine it's a lil more than the Alternator, which loads up the Battery. I once drove 100 Miles on the 395hwy(middle of no where, TRUST ME, Brian, lol)...and I made it, just barely, rolling into the station with my headlights almost completely dim. This was in a full size Chevy, ...but still.

Check that fuse, just for me, ok?

 

PS> Did you pull the ground before installing the Alternator?

 

It is a 60 amp alternator, and i just pulled all the fuses in the engine bay, not one was blown.

 

This fuse cannot be pulled, not the last time I checked. However, if you're reading the top of the larger fuse box behind the battery, then I guess you're checking the right one. It's about 1/2" x 3/4", usually black with lil screw that holds in the bottom(you can't see that part...It looks like a plug that you'd put in a wall, and the screw goes through a plate and holds the fuse down TIGHT.....tight as in, ....it WILL NOT come out)

Sooooooo, hmmmmmmmmm, that's really strange. Please explain more for me, ok?

1. Do you HAVE power, just not enough to start it?

or....

2. NO power, not dashlights, NUTTIN?

 

I have to know more before I can really give you anything useful, ya know? Don't want you 'fishing around blind, with the Haynes and LONG WEEKENDS of NO RESPONSES', hahah.

 

Let me rephrase the description of the fuse. It's the size I said, but it has a clear window on the top of it, facing vertically up, with a large copper band you can also see running across it. I'll go look if you need me to on the amps. Yours might be different.

 

Brian? .....you didn't get electrocuted, did you?

 

Ok, well I'm not sure where you went, and I'm just about to be slammed with dinner....so Just in case, I'm going to post a pic of that fuse..........

In center of frame............


Also, you might check your "MAIN" relay, or the EFI fuse(Driver Kick Panel, bottom left fuse-usually 15A)

 

I sometimes have dashlights sometimes not. And it will not turn over ever. And i checked the right fuse.

Yeah me and Haynes will be bonding

No, its that fuse.

Nope still alive!

I'm gonna check the interior fuses tomorrow after work.

 

Ok, homie.... I'll brainstorm for a lil bit, later. However, if you're getting juice to lights, then not? HMMMM, sounds more like a short to me, Brian. Never answered me, ...Did you pull the negative while doing the alternator? I WILL NOT pick on you, ...not my style, lol. I just want to help you do a P.O.E., ya know?

Check "MAIN" relay/fuse. Check "EFI" fuse, although....that wouldn't effect you having lights or not(i don't think)-???

Check along that wire that goes to the alternator, plus the power wire to the fusebox(might be a fuseable link in yours, like mine(dang PO! hahaha).

You could also test all your grounds with a multi-meter.

Get back to you later, best wishes Brian,

Mark

 

subscribing

 

Brian,

Try to jump start it, (your cables, ready to take off the battery), then leave the ground off your battery and unhook the cables...... If it wont keep running, something is wrong with the hookup on the Alternator, ...with the alternator itself, ....or it could be some freaky short somewhere.

The alternator is grounded with it's own wire, really well, correct? .....Really seems like you ran off the battery for that whole time, ....no charging. Then, when you went to restart it, it was just too low in juice. With a new battery, if you wait a while, it will build up some juice and often display lights in the cab or something, ...but NO juice. Try that 'jumping' trick, with just your alternator running things, first, ok?