Yes sir! I took today off after about 7 straight days working on the 4R. Its been a good week though!

Here are a few pictures too!

Pull the interior, cleaned, cleaned, then prepped for DIY bed liner throughout





New Neoprene seat covers for the front:

All bedlined:

Pressure washed ORIGINAL carpet

All put back together:




Tuffy Center console with factory switches:

 

SEXY Interior nude shots!!!! LOL. Looks great, and I love those seat covers.

So, .... s'up Rob? You planning on getting to it, more, tomorrow? Everything ok? Etc., etc., etc., lol. Just gotta let me know if you want some help, I'll be glad to.

Take care, man... ...oh yeah, any more pics of yesterdays stuff? lol.

Night,

Mark

 

Yeeeeeessssss suuuuur!!

Gonna head to the shop around 2pm! I think that tonight is going to be the official firing ceremony! J got everything hooked up and just about ready to fire.

So, if your free, come to the shop! I should be there about 2:45-3 pm

Soo fracking pumped to get this old girl started and purring! (fingers crossed on the purring http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/sr...es/exp_rig.gif

-R

 

wOOOOOt, wOOOOOt! lol.

I'ma try to be there..... let me know on the CAM thing and the rest, ....I emailed ya!

 

Were to start with this old girl...

So after 9 months of waiting on people whom I have paid to do labor on the 1st gen 4runner I have officially given up on friends.

About two weeks ago I was told by my friend (a Mechanic) that my new motor was in and was ready to break in. This is after well over 9 months for a motor rebuild. 9 MONTHS!! In this 9 months the motor had to be removed and taken back to the machine shop because we thought it was assembled wrong. It was TIGHT! BUT with that said I have never in my life heard of it taking 9 months to rebuild one motor.

So in my excitement I head down to the shop giddy as can be to see it start. Well id did not, THANK GOD. So after some fumbling with the motor and harness I decide to reach out to the great Youtatech community. I posted in the basic tech threat; "22re specialist in the LA area". That thread posted a few comments one that lead me to Chefyota4x4. AKA the MAN! http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/sr...s/headbang.gif

So I emailed chef through the site BLIND. I had never shared a discussion with him nor ever met him. So it was a shot in the dark.

To my surprise Chef was pleased to help and agreed to meet me down at the shop and take a look at the truck. When he arrived I showed him where we were and he was shocked. It was his suggestion not to move forward and to go through everything and see how it was put together. That was when the nightmare started.

Here is what it looked like when chef got there;

Well it was a little more put together then that but after locating a few leaks and many many issues we had to pull it apart.

Many issues...

So after Chef had a look at the motor I we began to further investigate how things were "put together"...

We started to pull the motor back down to the long block just about everything was done wrong. I mean everything. TPS was never set, both rear support brackets on the motor were not installed, and one was missing. ALL of the OEM hardwear for the water pump and timing cover were replaced with whatever would thread in. most of the bell housing was not even bolted together, the new clutch slave was loose and fitting was not tight. The Fan clutch and pulley were also hand tight, ALL of the intake manifold hardware were mismatched and the lower power steering pump bracket was just not installed. The 3 bolts that go into the head to hold that bracket together were stripped, IN MY BRAND NEW ENGNBLDR HEAD!!!

So yes it was totally messed up. It it was not for Chef then I would have assumed it was built right seeing I paid for it. It was not, it would not have even made it home it would have been a total waste of money. As we started to tear the motor back down to the long block I think everything had to be redone or checked.


We headed to the junk yard to gather some new timing cover and water pump bolts:





All done right:

setting the TPS:



Chef went to the dealer and visited his friend at the counter. They were able to order up all of the intake manifolds hardware, so we were heading in the right direction. I love OEM parts

After 5 solid 8-10 hour days at the shop with Chef, last night it is finally together and ready to be started.







I can not begin to thank Chefyota4x4 for all of his help and hours spent saving this project from disaster. I would have basically thrown all of the money out the window because the motor would have never been right. Chefs knowledge from his own build came thorough BIG TIME!

http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/sr...s/bowdown2.gif

So now before we start it and begin the break in process we have to figure out what my friend did to mess up the clutch. It will not engage and when in gear it rolls like it is in neutral. Sweet yet another thing to back track and fix.

Oh yeah and did I mention that my catalytic converter was stolen so I have to rebuild the whole exhaust system. they hacked the crap out of it.

More to come when we break it in on Tuesday!!!

 

wOOt, wOOt! lol.... Now that looks MUCH sexier! lol.....

Honestly, Robert, it was not only my pleasure, but it was also another learning experience, and MOST importantly, I gained a good friend in the whole process. You're an upright guy and you shouldn't have had to deal with this.... but alas, as I say, "it is what it is, let's move forward", eh? lol.... Honestly, 9 months is not only ridiculous, ....it's JUST PLAIN SILLY! I'd NEVER tore as far as I have into one till April of this year..... In what I believe was 4 days, it was ready to start(I had a few problems like a stuck injector, leaking wrap around pipe, etc.... you know that stuff)... but TO TOTALLY get in a new clutch, bearings, master and slave, install motor, adjust and check every sensor, etc., ...took me only a few days, ALONE! lol... NOT bragging, IN THE SLIGHTEST... I'm pretty much a newb that had to learn fast. RATHER, I only mention it to give you confirmation... "NOT ONLY was that all too long.... it was really careless and ridiculous stuff going on. YOU'RE NOT CRAZY, MY FRIEND! lol."

After tearing back into mine, twice, and rechecking EVERYTHING, and then some, 3 TIMES.... well, you know the story... "machinist put back my old, damaged cam into my EVERYTHING ELSE BRAND NEW motor..... In the end, I'd have been better off doing the whole thing, including head, MY SELF. To make it worse, he talked me out of doing what I wanted to do in the first place.... "Order a new 261 CAM w/head from Engnbldr"..... My point is, I FULLY understand your frustration and where you're coming from on 'THIS AINT RIGHT!' Even so, you had a great attitude and I HOPE I've been able to burn some common diagnosis/problem solving ideas into your head, as well as 'This goes here, THIS WAY, not that way, and no compromising with these lil sewing machines!', hahaha.

Robert didn't even include some other things, like not even HAVING a knock sensor or harness to tranny/reverse light stuff in there, let alone the wiring or connector to it... So, we hacked into a spare harness he had, soldered new wiring in for that, the transmission(clutch start cancel, reverse light) system and double heat shrunk it all up, PRETTY! lolol.

Again, .... IT WAS MY PLEASURE, was lots of fun(aside from the EAR DRUM CRACKING 6,000RPM DYNO RACING GOING ON IN THERE! HAHAHA), and I hope we can sus it up ASAP on Tuesday.

I'll see you Tthen, hey?! Just let me know what time to be there, and tell them NOT TO TOUCH IT! lol. Jk, ...you know what I mean, I hope... and maybe the clutch will be done by then as well! I'm going to stick with my guess that, the release bearing wasn't done right OR the clips fell out,...maybe the fork is not in the right position? Can't really make sense of what else that could be, to be honest.(BACKWARDS, eh chem, scuse me, lol). If they're(the clips) NOT there, ....hmmm. I know that they warned me, when doing my clutch, ...."DON'T LOSE or forget those clips OR GET THEM WRONG!" I had a lil trouble getting them just right, but then it all worked out after a lil first timer learning experiences, haha. That release bearing wasn't very cooperative, either.

Anyway, sorry for rambling,.... just that, well, it's ALL heavy on my mind and I'm anxious with ya! lol......

See ya Tuesday, Brudda,

Mark

 

Hey, your phone stinks! lol.... jk,... but not really, and, well, ..........you knew that already, sorry for my redundancy, hahaha.

Anyway, call me in the AM, if you read this, and make sure I bring my spare ECU and Multi-Meter. Please? lol.

Tty2mrw, Robert...

Mark

 

Wow, it sounds like you have been thru alot with this truck. Sub'd to help if I can

 

UPDATE:

I'm not trying to speak for Robert, but considering how understandably flustered he is right now, ...I thought I'd save him the trouble of having to type out a message, explaining all the things that are probably causing blood to shoot from his eyeballs at the moment.

Long story short; IT WONT START!

We've completely torn it down to the long block, re-installed everything, the right way, with all the proper bolts, etc. He now has a knock sensor.(Just thought of something that MIGHT cause some issues,...I'll elaborate later).

Today;

1. Checked the AFM-- Measured within specs on every test.

2. NO Codes, other than a recent "3". I'll be reading up on that tonight, but (IGNITION) is what it's related to(Ignitor, etc.)

3. Checked the EFI Fuse(it's fine)

4. Checked the ECU for being plugged in(it is)

5. Pulled the valve cover, made sure it was on TDC on compression stroke with corresponding valves checking out for 'loose or tight' and set Dizzy at #1 with notch in dizzy gear just counterclockwise of the Cam/Dizzy drive gear.

6. Fuel Pump is turning on with the slightest movement of the AFM measuring plate and there is TONS of fuel at the CSI.

7. Checked CSI for voltage with key turning over(Measures 5-7V and then falls off after a few cranks to 0V.

8. Checked the Injector Resistor on the passenger firewall(finned thing), and it read 3.0-3.1ohms... The specs say (2-3ohms, and if out of specs at all, "IT MUST BE REPLACED") I'm going to check mine in the morning, cuz mine is running strong(other than my obvious cam issues), ...but can anyone tell me off the top of their head if bouncing from 3.0-3.1(being 1/10th of an ohm over at times) could cause the injectors not to fire?

9. With starter fluid being tapped at the AFM intake, it's seeming to want to start, even a few revolutions, ....then caput! I would assume this means that WE ARE getting spark and without major backfire/misfiring, I would assume that would lean toward "fuel or timing related", ...correct?

10. The AFM checked out, resistance wise, as I said, ... HOWEVER; When trying to turn it over, I kept hearing this 'CLICK...CLICK', pretty loud, over and over, repetitiously. It seemed to happen every other stroke of the starter. When removing the cone filter, I noticed that the flap was making the noise. It's slapping on the fully closed stop-plate. I don't remember mine EVER doing that, even when it wouldn't start.... Is this just due to compression causing a vacuum against the measuring plate, causing it to open and slap close, rapidly?(every second or so it slaps).

11. Tried to swap my KNOWN good ECU out with his(both are 87 SR5's)..NO GO.

12. Pulled the Valve cover(as mentioned) and when I got to TDC on the compression stroke, the CAM notch did not seem to be at 12o'clock on the dot. The valves were all measuring a good lash.....right where they were supposed to be. However, the Cam Timing Gear Notch and CAM notch both seemed to be BARELY clockwise too far(with the shiny link at 11:59 and the Cam Notch at 12:01)--->>> Make sense? I'm trying to understand how that's even possible..... If the TDC mark is on 0 and Bright link is at nearly 12, I think we're ok... It just 'looked' a lil, TEEEEENY bit over(not a full tooth, is what I mean). Can the CAM be installed slightly cockeyed(VERY slightly)??? I'm going to load my pics and get them up here... It's driving me nuts, and I DOUBT that's his issue... but, then again, if it's a tooth off, it could cause some issues.

Another QUESTION(please, guys, this yotatech'brudda REALLY needs to get this running so he can break in the cam... it's his DD!!);

A. With the Injector connector unplugged at #3 injector, it doesn't read ANY voltage, even with the engine cranking(let alone with the key to 'STA' position. I'm going to read through my FSM pages on the EFI system... but ...AS I REMEMBER from checking that #2 injector ON MY TRUCK with a NOID LIGHT..., it didn't light up until the motor fired up(Or was it "wouldn't light up the noid until it was 'turning over'"???). Once the engine fired, on my truck, The Noid was on, flashing rapidly with the pulse.

Hopefully, when his friend pulls the plenum off tonight and pulls the fuel rail, back, he will see whether the injectors are firing or not...

I was going to check at the ECU, tomorrow, if he wants me to be there, and see if I get the numbers I want by doing the 'troubleshooting readings' from the No.10 and No.20 to E2 at the ECU connectors.

ANY OTHER GUIDANCE, GUYS???????? IT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED, PLEASE BELIEVE ME!

Thanks, in advance,

Mark

PS> Sorry Robert... I'm not totally stumped, yet, ..... I have a couple ideas if he does get fuel. However, if he doesn't... I'm hoping to find A DEFINITE yes or no answer as to whether the 'injector resistor' can be 1/10th of an ohm out of specs. I'll check mine asap... Had to come home and prepare their dinner( hahaha) They said they had it covered, but then, "ummmmmm, we're pretty hungry, sorry, we didn't end up going out with friends", and HEY, that's what I'm here for, eh? lol.. Just that I'm pretty wiped out. I WILL check it though, promise.(maybe remind me in the morning? Have to clean up the kitchen now.

 

PICS of the topic of "IS THIS LINED UP?" ............







I seem to remember CAM knob being DIRECTLY at 12, and the bright link a bit more counterclockwise than that, when dead on TDC......

Any thoughts?

 

Mark your the man, I thank everyone in advance for there help. I am at my wits end, I promise I will not give up! But it gets rough when you thought 2 weeks ago it should be good to go and then have to start, basically over.

Sweet pics! Any insight for you gurus would be great!!

I am by far no way of a "guru" I would be more like the freshman in high school maybe through his first semester... LOL

But I honestly have no clue what it could be. Gosh I hope it is simple.

my thoughts:

Fuel
- Injectors
- or something to do with that (fuel)

Code
- coil?
- resistor?

Question for anyone that may know. Does the ignition coil or igniter have anything to do with the injectors possibly not working correctly? That is the code we are getting and it also seems like it does not get fuel. The CS injector gets the fuel there, it stutters and wants to start but after that it just seems to fall of and not get fuel??

-R

 

Mark the timing marks look good to me.

Rob the coil & ignitor is an ignition part, if the plugs are firing then they are both working.

I assume that it has been awhile since the injectors have fired, I would check them for blockage or just being gummed up.

 

My bet is it's gonna be fuel. Not to long ago I had an issue where I was getting good fuel pressure but my relay went bad so the injectors were not working.

Make sure the relays are not getting hot after it cranks over a few times.

It could be and hopefully(for your sake) is something as simple as that.

 

Hey Brudda, THANKS, ... I appreciate ANY and ALLLLLLLL input at this point.... and believe it or not, ..."not sure right now" IS REALLY actually helpful... gives confirmation that I'm not just BLINDLY missing something obvious and I'm sure helps Robert to just see people stopping in. Far as the timing, yeah, it is MOST LIKELY(99%) negligible.... Just saying, ....I'd never seen one be "off a lil but NOT ENOUGH to be '"""OFF"""' " if you know what I mean? I'm guessing it's the new, more aggressive cam that is causing that excess pull on the chain over the lobes...but it's just a guess. Just a foot note... *WHEN I dropped it back to 8* BTDC.... it looked EXACTLY like mine... DEAD ON... Ask Robert, he was there, I CAN PROVE IT! hahaha. Jk, seriously though... it did. Far as the 'RESISTOR'..... mine checks out at 3.1-3.2 all day long, .....mine runs strong, other than the hiccup which is pretty much proven to be mechanical by propane tests and 300hours of diagnosis! haha, ok, maybe 200. Far as the AIR FLOW METER?????? HMMMMMM, as I said, I KNOW that's not 'normal' as far as what I've seen on DOZENS of these, now. I'm bringing a spare, and we're going to pull the Air Tube BEFORE the AFM(between Throttle Body and AFM) and leave the AFM plugged in....then turn it over. I HAVE TO KNOW if it's the compression/suction of the mechanical creating that flapping on the door...that test will tell for SURE!(THANKS, ANDY!)

Hey 90YP, ...thanks for stopping in, seriously. Yeah, that was supposed to happen last night.... LONG STORY, and really not my place to tell it. SOOOOOO, i'll leave that to Robert and just say.... I guess I'll be doing that, today, and yet, I might just try with coil unplugged to pull a plug, first(with CSI connector unplugged to eliminate it from the process)... Plug Should be saturated in gas, especially with no spark. I'll definitely try that first, ... I mean, if it's not GAS-STANKIFIED, lol.. well, then it's my next step... then it's definitely time to pull the rail.
AFTER THAT(if no fuel firing), I would be checking the Injector connector with Noid, then checking No.10 and No. 20 jumped to E2 at the ECU for voltage with key in STA position.


Anyone else? I think I've been heading in the right direction, and checking, first, the most CRUCIAL things that could go really wrong, or have us chasing tail indefinitely.... like the Cam Gear/Timing Marks, etc. Just don't want this pretty new performance head damaged, ya know? Really, guys.... I WANT TO BECOME A 'GREMLIN SERIAL KILLER!', HAHAHa....but then, they're actually quite rewarding to beat, so it's like missing a trial that's passed in some ways(NOT ENOUGH TO REAAAAAAAALLY MISS IT THOUGH! hahaha. Eh Robert?)

Thanks again, Guys,

Mark

PS> I copied and pasted this from my troubleshooting thread, ..so I'll add;

YotaRob; Thanks, ...yeah, I think he had RC inspect and pass the injectors...(PRETTY MUCH POSITIVE) ..but they didn't get the full treatment. Still, mine fired and ran like a raped ape with only 3 injectors. So, unless NONE of them are firing, ....I think 'Gummed' is out, ...they cleaned them up, but didn't disassemble them I believe(??)

Cooties; Which relay? Forgive me, I'm having informational overload at the moment. Between this rig and mine, work, caring for both my parents,etc, I'm a bit THUMPED in the head for the moment, hahaha. The resistor COULD be an issue, but I doubt it.. .mine read 3.1-3.2 and mine runs, strong, save the CAM issue. Starts on first crank of the flywheel(click-click VROOM). I know the ECU has Drivers for the injectors... but we swapped my working ECU with his,...no go go. Fusible link is still intact. Etc. ... Lil help on that one, Cooties, would be greatly appreciated(elaborate so I can laugh at myself and say, "DERRRRRRR, MARK!" .... trust me, I'M DYING TO do so! hahaha.) Thanks, Cooties, appreciate you stopping by.... We're gonna hit it til it bleeds 'VROOOOOOOOOOM!' lol

 

I briefly scanned over everything from the the second page on the symptoms. It won't start, right? But, it's getting fuel to the CSI, right? So, there's not even intial fire up?

What code are you getting? 3? Ignition signal = IG circuit. Did you guys check the main relay? I'm sure that's one that cootees is referring to. Then, there's the COR which could be bypassed at the FP test plug. Also bypasses the AFM. Anyway, the distributor RPM signal (Ne) controls injector pulse once the cranking and running. But, you need the IG signal for them to even energize and open. Read pg.13 here:

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf

 

Oh yeah, and on the AFM "slapping" noise. Sounds like the internal return spring is worn out. It shouldn't slap loudly like that. How does the measuring plate feel when manipulating it by hand? It should have a gentle yet solid resistance without any slop. IOW's, there shouldn't be any gap in the feeling of resistance against the spring at the point in which you press in on it.

Lastly, the cam/crank timing is dead on.

 

WOOT! Thanks, Matthew... Sorry for calling a few times, hahaha... Just really stumped here.

HOWEVER: Update;

Today we first removed the AFM air pipe so that the engine wouldn't be sucking on it... and then when turning it over, still connected by the connector... I can hear the fuel pump JAMMIN away, but it DOES NOT flap like that when it's not getting pulled on by the intake. So, I assume that the issue must be mechanical. Never had one get fuel to the rail but not inject fuel through to the hole... so maybe it's normal for the motor to pull on the flap like that?

Then, we went through DOZENS more tests, including the ECU connector/Voltage-testing... It seemed to all check out ok. Also tried to run a noid test, but when cranking, fuel at the rail, they WOULD NOT light the noids...

Eventually, we tore off the plenum to get the injectors out, test them and the connectors... and ........

1. The injector connectors are getting 12.45V with the key on
2. The fuel is HIGH pressure to the rail and gets to all injectors and CSI
3. When turning over, injector connectors hooked up, they WILL NOT fire fuel out the other side.

....I'm not sure if the harness(which WAS in this car and ran at one point.....however terribly) is the right one... it had a set up for an Auto Tranny, the type of connectors(those two) that in this case are stuck together and have more wires than mine did... And besides, Robert said that they WERE NEVER hooked up to anything, ..even when it ran. I pulled the right ones off another harness he had and connected them to the tranny(soldered and heat shrunk up right). One odd thing is that it cranks over without having the clutch in or clutch start cancel button depressed... also, What I don't understand is that, Even though they're using the same injectors and harness, the other mechanic friend of Roberts(and Robert) said, "When we tore this all apart, the injector connectors just fell off(I guess they were taped on or something? I'll have to ask)they wouldn't stay on....so we soldered in new connectors that fit right on the injectors... that's all we've done to the harness".(and like I said, there's power to them, UNTIL you turn over the key...from what I remember)..They also CLICKED away when the other mechanic guy applied voltage to them. There also wasn't a knock sensor... so they got one, and I hooked it up.(odd thing, the connector that is on the thermo temp time switch is the same exact connector as the yellow knock sensor one... same color, everything. I guess it fits just fine, but I'm wondering if they're switched, now that I think about it. Not sure that wouldn't allow the injectors to fire fuel.(????) Might try to switch those wires, Robert... But EVEN THEN... the motor wouldn't fire, even before I got there, and without a knock sensor, without the new Tranny and Reverse Light wires soldered in(check for a reverse light, Robert, ok?)

It seems to me, seeing that it WANTS TO START when you give it starter fluid... it's got spark and compression, no?(Also wouldn't hurt to do a compression test, Robert, ya know? Just to rule out a bent valve like TED and TOD from Engnbldr suggested might be the less likely but worse case scenario........

Speaking of Tod and Ted, ... they both have been helping Robert out and answering as best as possible over the phone... When I said that the AFM flap was doing that, when the air pipe was hooked up, Ted chimed in in the background and said, "Sounds like they got the CAM moved when bolting on the head bolts... maybe a rocker pushed over the cam, just slightly, and it's not working 'true' TDC and CAM notch at 12oclock." THANKS for the input, TED! ...

When I had it on TDC(O), on the crank, the Cam Notch seems to be BARELY forward clockwise... not even a full minute on the clock... but enough that it caught my eye... Not sure it's related to any other issues that might be going on... but Ted thought it might be causing a strange vacuum to pull the AFM door open and shut every revolution.

Anyway, I feel really bad for you, Robert... I know you've been 'THROUGH THE FIRE' on this one... and, well, I'll leave any other personal explanations you want to share to you, yourself. Just know that I FEEL YA! lol... Really wish I could have 'sussed it up' by now... Seems these gremlins are NOT THAT UNCOMMON! lol.

They're taking the injectors in, tomorrow morning, and they'll call me. I REALLY doubt that RC Injectors would send em back without testing them like 6 or so Times... that's what they did with my 'full service' job... GREAT place, and hopefully they'll have some answers as to why it's 'NOT FIRING!' Besides, my motor fired up with 3 injectors, only, working, ...and on two 'clicks' of the starter. SOMETHING is stopping the voltage once the starter turns over.

*** ONE LAST THING ***

When we tested the EFI Relay(the Round one "M4") in the driver kick panel, it tested out with resistance that was just fine..., but it was REALLY HOT to the touch. We've not turned it over excessively, and it seemed to be hot without having turned it over for QUITE a while. Could that be an issue???????? I'm guessing that something is crossed or shorted and/or, something in the IG circuit is blown and causing the M4 Relay to surge/load up with voltage/heat. ?????????????

 

PS> The measuring plate seems to open easily and have a normal amount of spring return... It just seems, as I noted, that the 'MECHANICAL END' is causing this 'PULL" on the door, ya know?

 

I read this the first time and it didn't register... DANGIT, lol. The relay is getting VERY HOT. (M4), below the flasher relay in the driver side kick panel, RIGHT?

 

PSS> Hey Robert... Might want to write down here everything we've found, etc. Can't be too thorough, and I KNOW you want to avoid having it end up in that specialist I mentioned if you can avoid it... (SAVE THE CABBAGE, ETC.), eh? lol. On my thread, as well, people are chiming in..... I would throw out some of your thoughts and such, details... just to see what comes up. CAN'T be far, Robert... I know it's not what you want to be dealing with, ...TOTALLY feel ya on that.... But IT HAS to be close, especially starting up with starter fluid.

Hope to hear from ya soon, bud, ....

Mark