I couldn't find my winch bumper concept, so I'm posting it now. I guess I thought I posted it already.



This page has a link to the multi-mount winch plate idea. I don't want to leave my winch mounted when not needed, and this will allow me to mount the winch out back if needed.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...7/index47.html

 

do want

 

here is the final version that was cut out, I'm using an x-ray view so you can see the construction better.

 

I'm furloughed, so I've been toiling over the truck. I'll be honest, I'm a bit nervous to burn everything in. I'll take some pics during daylight tomorrow and post up.

 

furloughed as in laid off? if so sorry bud...that sucks.

That bumper looks pretty frigging awesome. Sometimes I want to gut the tube on the front of my truck and do something like what you made.

 

Not laid off per say, idiots on Capitol Hill.... I'm on leave a without pay until they all get their heads outta their.....it does suck, but I got time to do some other things just can't spend and money.
Once the sas is finished I'll swap the full float rear in and regear the front to match the new rear... Then I assemble the bumper.

 

Update...
I am ready for final burn in, and adding another gusset over the panhard and some final welding. One note, I added a fish plate under the passenger side rail where it has been clearanced, and the end is rubbing the drag link at passenger stuff. I will cut the end of the plate off to make room.

Shock towers lean out at 10.5*, and are 20.5" from the core support. I used a tram-bar to square my shocktowers to the frame. I used the tram-bar to square the front axle to the frame also, to me, this tool is essential for suspension placement. But I know it can be done without one. Shock towers are mounted as high as I possibly could get them to give me the lowest possible ride height.

I added a 3" pipe to the frame for more uptravel, you will see in the pics. I first cut about 1/2" from the IFS frame where it dips under the firewall. That wasn't enough room, so I fileted in some pipe to clearance just the frame area the link came in contact with. Now I have 4" of uptravel before I hit the clutch slave, and really it just kisses it If the bumps go past the 25%-30% compression (edit: I made a mistake, these are Energy Suspension bump stops, they compress 50%).

And wheelbase is now 106" stock was 103".



Double Stuff




Ride Height




Driver Stuff



Full Droop
Coming soon....



While, I am nervous about final burn in, and no turning back(never did this before), I can say that patience and constant measuring and tweaking seems to have helped my process. I used a digital degree finder, and while this may make you mad/crazy watching tenths change, I was able to get my shock towers to align easier. Driver is 10.3* and Passenger is 10.5* and both sides are within a degree of 90* off the frame. I used the front cross-member for a zero point. And the shock towers are within a 16th of an inch in height from the floor.

 

Dayummmmmmm! looks like all of that hard work is paying off! That is absolutely sick... If I ever meet up with you, I'll definitely hop in with you when I can't get any further! Lol. Totally excited, and I'm sure you'll do fine on the burning, you're very thorough and you've done so well so far man! My best to you on the rest! incredible attention to detail man!

 

that's awesome! the question on my mind though it's how will everything clearance with a 1kd-ftv

 

Wow..... For some reason, I guess because I got so into this... I completely forgot about that. I bet it not only clears just fine, but you can manipulate the pan to it as well. Hmmmmm

 

Thanks guys.
I have no idea about 1KD fitment, will probably have to switch the upper link to the driver side, no big deal.

 

I just saw a thread on a 1JZGTE-VVT swap into a 88.... He did have a 3.0, but Its just odd because I never really heard much about that swap. Just DSM did a 2jzgtte swap into that monster prerunner thing. Just curious what you think about that swap.

 

If I am correct the 1JZ is the monster hp engine and only JDM, I could have this wrong though. The 2JZ is a great mill also, but it doesn't have the available HP outta the box the 1Jz does and the 2jz is very thirsty. If I stay gas, it'll get a 3rz or maybe the 1UZ.
The 2jz & 1jz are great engines with lots of potential, if you want to shoehorn an inline 6 and deal with radiator and firewall clearance.
The 1KD will require the oil pan from a HiAce van to solve any clearance issues. The upper link may contact the passenger side exhaust that the 1kd and 3rz share. The 1Uz, that will require more clearancing all the way around. Bogger Welds on pirate has a 4runner he is stuffing a 1Uz into with the 4Wheel Underground 3-Link, and he has all sorts if clearance problems.

 

Why the 3rz instead of a 5vz? I'm sure you've put much more though into it than I have.

 

Can answer for RB, but as far as for me, the 3RZ would provide quite a bit more horsepower, compare to my motor, it can be supercharged without too much difficulty and would offer better mileage, as well as the fact that it is much easier to diagnose issues... & I am freaking tired of gremlins hiding so well from me! Plus, like RB said, it would be a much easier fit the most of the other options, along with being much easier to work on. I love the 1UZ idea but I really don't need the drama.

Iirc, reading over the 1JZGTE VVT swap, the, it looked as though it was quite a bit of drama to get it in. I believe the guy ended up doing a pulling of the body.. .. NOT GUNNA HAP'N lol

 

The 3rz is 150hp and gets decent mpg, the 5vz 200hp iirc, but mpg is in the mid teens. The 1Uz reports low 20's mpg and 200hp. I want better economy, more power would be a plus. The diesel route is more expensive but is the best for hp, torque and mpg hands down. If I'm going to a v configured engine it'll be the 1Uz, for me the effort to swap in any engine is about the same with a v engine, inline four is slimmer and should be less clearancing.

 

Got the go ahead to burn it all in after I move my bumps down a touch! Time to disassemble, weld, clean, & paint.

 

RBX I've watched your 4Runner build-up over the last few years with great interest. I catch up every few months to see how you are progressing. I may have read this and forgotten, but I was wondering about something. On page 77
post 1529 the picture titled "Doublestuff" I noticed that you have your knuckles reversed between left and right. Normally a solid front axle has the disk brake calipers on the rear and the grease plug on the front of the knuckle. Is there a reason for this...possibly something to do with your link kit?

 

^^^ the knuckles are reversed because I'm using the front range offroad taco brake caliper kit for the front. Technically I could cut the front old caliper mounts off on the knuckle.

 

Again I don't want to hijack your thread, but I wanted to add to your discussion about wheel backspacing on your build thread on the 4 wheel underground site. We (my son and I) have three rigs with mini truck solid front axles, from our experience if you are running the V6 calipers on the axle a 15 " wheel with a 3.75" backspacing will give you about 3/8"
clearance from your hysteer arms, but you need to grind down the ribs off of the top
of the calipers for clearance.
I was running 16" wheels on one of my trucks, they were factory 96 4Runner steel replacements and according to what I 've read stock back spacing is 4.5", they are on a 84 Suzuki SJ 410 with mini truck axles now. when I was running them on my 86 pickup, I was running 1 1/2" spacers so that the front and rear track width were the same.