RAD4Runner

SWEET! Thanks so much, Grego. LOL! I already started making my upgrade harness tonight. Pretty simple, but I'm taking my time to make it clean, not much excess wire to add to resistance. Now I've figured out optimum wire lengths so subsequent assemblies should take no time. Excited to get it working.

Could you use an upgrade harness? Would you happen to have headlight schematic for your truck so I can make sure same harness will work on yours?

-Ray

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, I'm excited to see your HIGHBEAMS, BABY! hahaha.

Hmmm, my Reverse and 4WD Wire that come through the plenum and then travel back along the bell housing(and beyond for the reverse) are secured by one of toyota's lil and infamous for coming loose, and over time, BREAKING THROUGH the wiring- 'Brackets'.... I will try to get a pic for ya... BUT, it's basically a loop for the loom and then L-bend with a mounting hole AND lil peg for support... I guess it looks a lil similar to the Clutch Slave Line Support Bracket(just not as strong)..

Dude, it's so hard to see so many cool upgrades that are, well, things I've already replaced? hahaa... BUT, I would gladly do them if they're more safe/affordable.. And one example is the V6 Brake Upgrade... UNFORTUNATELY, I don't have the V6 Rears(I guess the drums and cyls and such are bigger, I think Terry told me?)... They charge WAY too much at PYPart for those... AND, if I was gonna go that far, I'd just do a 4wheel disc conversion with T-case brake or something.(man i WISH I could do CAD and other stuff and then build and weld KILLER brackets and brake support stuff and... Ya know, STUFF LIKE RBX and others do.... DANG! You're another one... dang you! hahaha.

GREAT idea to upgrade the wiring. Are you saying you DO NOT like the way Roger/4Crawler did it? Or, you just improved upon his pretty darn good design?

(Sorry, I'll read back asap.. just really been busy trying to figure out/work with this DANG SMART(er than me) PHONE! hahaha.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Where the backup light rubs is a problem I encountered and it was a real pain to find. I did alot of researching on it and was surprised it is mentioned very little. I have since helped 2 people find their same problem as well. Mine had such a small knick in the wiring, it was almost over looked.

I think I will eventually want to do your headlight upgrade as well. The electrical system seems to me to be barely adequate for these trucks. Another weak area is the cigarette lighter. I use mine for Garmin, but if you use an afermarket lighter, it will pop the fuse.

Another weak electrical area is the connectors to the fuel injectors, that is a poor design. It kept my 86 from starting up as they are just crimped and wrapped with electrical tape. Just recently helped Cabot get his running after he went thru everything else. Mine would pass resistance checks but still not fire off the injectors. I removed the crimps and soldered and shrink wrapped them on another truck and it seemed to me the truck ran a little better just doing that small repair.

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

Haven't really been following what your upgraded harness will do (makes headlights brighter?), but if it does good I'm all for it!

This is from my Toyota EWD Manual...for a 1992 Pickup

RAD4Runner

In fact, 4Crawler's phrase, "skimpy stock wiring and convoluted path that the headlight current takes" sparked my interest in looking at the schematic, but last time I checked he was out of stock on the harness.

Would also like to do rear disc conversion when time to replace my brake drums.

Yes, headlight upgrade will make headlights brighter by eliminating the voltage drop caused by high current over high resistance of the long and thin wire that runs from battery, to relay, through bulb, to cabin, to dimmer-switch, back to engine compartment to fender ground. That voltage drop causes around 5-watts loss of power to each bulb on my stock sealed low beams. more on high beams. According to other's calculation that loss in power corresponds to around 30% loss of light output.
Even if you do not care about the light loss, fixing the problem will help extend life of your dimmer switch combo, just like like fixing the starting system flaw will help extend life of your ignition switch.

Grego , Thanks. Your light control looks like standard 22RE control. Will be plug n play with the upgrade harness. One concern I have is whether high beam indicator would still work. Other forum members say it would, but I need to verify.

Yes, Terry, plain crimps are OK for cars in mild environments, but when they get wet/dirty, eventually we get oxidation in the connections. That's why each time I have to work on a splice, I also solder. But to make sure the solder does not weaken from vibration, I wrap/twist wires around each other before I solder. Then water-proof, of course.

RAD4Runner

In fact, 4Crawler's phrase, "skimpy stock wiring and convoluted path that the headlight current takes" prompted me to look at the schematic, but last time I checked he was out of stock on the harness.
Edit:
From what I understand, he bought his first harness, but is working on new design. I visited 4Crawler's headlight harness site again today. 4Crawler, thank you very much for sharing the design to make high beam indicator work without having to dig into wires to re route stock high-beam indicator!


Would also like to do rear disc conversion when time to replace my brake drums.

Yes, headlight upgrade will make headlights brighter by eliminating the voltage drop caused by high current over high resistance of the long and thin wire that runs from battery, to relay, through bulb, to cabin, to dimmer-switch, back to engine compartment to fender ground. That voltage drop causes around 5-watts loss of power to each bulb on my stock sealed low beams. more on high beams. According to other's calculation that loss in power corresponds to around 30% loss of light output.
Even if you do not care about the light loss, fixing the problem will help extend life of your dimmer switch combo, just like like fixing the starting system flaw will help extend life of your ignition switch.

Grego , Thanks your light control looks like standard 22RE control. Will work be plug n play with the upgrade harness. One concern I have is whether high beam indicator would still work. Other forum members say it would, but I need to verify.

Yes, Terry, plain crimps are OK for cars in mild environments, but when they get wet/dirty, eventually we get oxidation in the connections. That's why each time I have to work on a splice, I also solder. But to make sure the solder does not weaken from vibration, I wrap/twist wires around each other before I solder. Then water-proof, of course.

Mr_Random

Looks like your starting circuit fix is something I might wanna look in to, do you know whether an 84 carb'd would have the same circuit? My ignition switch just went out, but it failed in a way I haven't seen before (the blower motor can be turned on with ign off, some other things), so I'm guessing the starter circuit just over-amped the switch... Wanted a kill-switch anyways, so I guess I'll look through it tomorrow and report as to whether it has the same issue!

Thanks for the info on backup light wiring, I'll look at that tomorrow also...

Do you have a post detailing what exactly to replace for the headlight wiring? I skipped like 150 of the pages on this thread... I am pretty competent and can figure it out myself, but if the thinking has already been done and laid out I'd rather just go directly to that.

RAD4Runner

85 and earlier, and some mid-86's do not have starter relay. That was a problem because it overloaded the ignition switch contacts. Toyota added the starter relay but still wired it wrong (The "Flaw"). To retrofit your system, an option is:
1) Find a good starter relay, maybe from later gens.
2) Wire power side of contacts to battery through fuse,
3) Disconnect wire that plugs into starter solenoid and connect that to positive side of relay coil (control).
4) Wire load side of contact to where you wire used to plug into solenoid
5) Wire negative side of relay coil to fender ground near batt negative.

Sorry not post, yet but I think my circuit will end up similar to 4Crawler's (see his website), but I will add suppression diodes on relay coils - inexpensive safeguard from counter-emf.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The Navy is probably looking for a new Captain here soon as I seen this on the net. http://news.yahoo.com/us-navy-minesw...-politics.html

What was your rate? I was an FC3 on the Okinawa and Peleliu.

RAD4Runner

Happy new year, Terry

Darn! The Tubataha Reef is prime diving location, one of the last few unspoiled places on Earth. (I don't dive, yet but my cousin dive-masters there). The captain should be dragged across the reef - LOL!

I was Aviation Support Equipment tech so we worked on diesels, generators, air-conditioners, the TA-75 tow tractor (Ford 302), mobile gas turbines, and even the simplest tow-bars Quite handy experience for auto-work

I knew a Watson onboard but your description does not fit him (He was there earlier than me.)

Mr_Random

I suppose I should have expected that considering that during my efi upgrade I never saw a relay. Thanks for the details, fortunately I already have the knowledge to fix this! At least your reply can help someone else too :-)

The 80's must have been a bad time for wiring jobs... I had an 86 Cherokee that had similar crap light wiring.

RAD4Runner

LOL! Our 87 Prelude also had a low beam go out. I found the dimer switch contacts pitted (in the 90's before I realized they should have been putting relays on these systems). I built-up the pitted area with solder but that did not last long; I eventually just replaced the stalk.

I think that's true even with latter model vehicles. I just looked at schematic for 2000 Honda Civic. Same thing. Full load current for headlights run through the stalk dimmer switches.

Redeth005

Dang ray. You should really make a thread specifically for this. Thisbis such an awesome job. I wish I had your skills.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Excited to see the work, RAD! Gonna be sick ...

I knew u wud eventually get talking with Roger.

Hope u r well!

Sent from my SPH-L900 using YotaTech

RAD4Runner

Yes, Mark. I hope Roger could comment because I would appreciate his inputs.

Guys, I am leaning toward same schematic as on his site here:


I want to do it in the the "electrically-sound" / proper way that Roger describes here:
"... run the "87a" wire from the high beam relay back to the dash and have that wire supply power to the high beam indicator directly, disconnecting the high beam indicator from the return line from the low beam light. This is really the way that the high beam indicator should have been wired from the factory..." - 4crawler

"disconnecting the high beam indicator from the return line from the low beam" looks like this.


To do that I need to find the splice in next pic.


If anyone has ever dug into his wiring, I would greatly appreciate if you could share where in the harness can I find it:

1. In engine compartment?
2. Under the fender where harness runs into cabin?
3. Under dash?

Pics would be great.

P.S. For Roger,
I think what you are referring to as 87a is really the second pin 87 (no "a") in a relay with two pin 87's, not the Normally-Closed 87a. Second pin 87 will get 12V when hi beam is on and will power high beam indicator.
Re: power resistor...
The way I look at the upgrade harness above, when hi beam is off, there will be no power to either pin 87's of high beam relay so even if low beam connector/contact "1" were grounded, there would be no current flow through R1 and D2, hence no need for a high-power resistor.
TIA

RAD4Runner

In very rare cases, my engine sputters like it's starving for fuel. Otherwise it runs very well. Also in the morning or when it had sat un-driven for say a day or so, it takes longer for it to fire. Could there be check valve that maintains fuel pressure between pump and injector so it would be ready to start next time and that check valve is not quite sealing well?

What do you guys think?

Since it's a 26-YO truck (and I've had a fuel pump die on an 8-YO Honda), an OEM replacement fuel pump and/or filter would be a worthwhile investment and insurance. Is replacing it fairly plug and play?

You guys know a good deal for OEM fuel pump?

Redeth005

Have you ran your truck pretty empty lately? I ask this because I had this problem when I first bought my truck. It always ran like crap at first but this time it was a different type of feeling. I ran my truck till it died from lack if gas. And after 20sum years you get lota of debris, dust or dirt in your tank. And when you run it dry like that you end up getting all that dirt in your lines.
Once I added gasoline to the tank I knew it would feel wierd because ita gettong the gas into the lines. But after the truck started I kept feeling a startle like u said where it feels like its starving for fuel. So I went out to AutoZone to buy a new fuel filter. That ended up being the problem. My filter had a lot of crap in it from using the gas till the last drop lol

I'm not sure exactly if its the same for the 22re. I know on my very first 1986 Toyota pickup truck with the 22r carb engine the fuel filter was easy as cake to install. It was just 2 rubber hoses that connect into a plastic fuel filter anf all I had to dobwas pull the rubber hoses off and push into the new plastic fuel filter. But when I did my 1989 3vze 4Runner it was harder to get to. And was a way different type of filter. Was metal and it had 2 metal gas lines instead of the rubber ones. Still do-able. U shouldnt have too much of a hard time doing it.

Hope thats your problem Ray. I know nothing about fuel pumps. Just thought id give u some of my own 1st hand experience. Hope it helps you.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey buddy,

Fuel pump is cake.... Simply lift the pass. side rear seat bottom to reveal the pump mounting screws. PU's?.... not so easy, lol.

Not gonna jump to say that this is ur culprit, or even that is a likely one. However.... couldn't hurt to verify fuel pressure, the working order of your FRP and TPS.

FAR AS PRESSURE/READY TO START NEXT TIME, you just need to run through a good P.O.E. . Try starting with the 3 primary culprits in this set of symptoms...

1. FUEL PRESSURE
2. TPS
3. FUEL FILTER
4. COLD START INJECTOR OR CSI TIME SWITCH.

I MIGHT SUSPECT that ur fuel filter is hindering flow.... but then it runs perfectly fine at times, right? So not likely, imho, but if its been 30k miles - 200k miles, just replace it... go WIX or OEM.

As u know, im having issues withwarm restart.. and MORE TROUBLE figuring it out, lol. But cold? VROOOOOM, 2 rotations of the motor/starter. Btw, my filter was 140k old 2 yrs ago, replaced it, no change. Wit I shudda done was check fuel pressure.

Had a similar issue, was the TPS. Soetimes its the injector y splicea intermittently failing to connect.... AFM's not reading right have done this, but not as likely.... Even rpm signal and other IGN related stuffs are mentioned in the fsm in troubleshooting realms.... Again, time to work through the usual suspects, avoid theowing parts at it..... if u have low fuel pressue, attack those likely culprits.

This is one of those GREMLINS, RAD, ... NO CODES/P.O.E. TIME!

RAD4Runner

Tnx, Mark and Richard.
Mark, got pic of location of fuel filter? I've looked around fuel tank and followed hoses from it but don't see a filter.
TIA

Redeth005

Ray the Fuel filter has a metal cover on it. Its pretty close to the big bracket that holds the transmission up. Sorry no pix. I'd take a quick picture for you, but i brought my car to work today. Just look around that area that im talking about. RH side. really close to that tranny holder thing.(dunno the exact name.)