My little gem...86' 4runner
#41
Spoke to early...haha
The TPS was quite the learning experience as me an electronics don't go together at all! I followed 4crawlers instructions to a tee. Still had some small issues? Went back to double check and my throttle stop had a gap so all my gaps and testing where useless. Fixed that and went back through and she purred like a kitten...for a few miles then as before my rockers seem to fall out of adjustment. Was recommended to do 6 on the intake and 8 on the exhaust (engine cold). I'm hoping this solves my issue, but if not the only thing left to change is my cam.
Side note: told to change to a 4 wire denso o2 plug due to LC header.
Love this site!
Side note: told to change to a 4 wire denso o2 plug due to LC header.
Love this site!
#42
4 wire O2 sensor
Alright gents I have a question. I suck at electrical. I know what each of the the colors means on the 4 wire plug but my question is where did you run your hook ups to? Would kinda like everything to run together so as not to have a bunch of single wires running all over the place. Pics are always a plus.
Thanks in advanced!
Thanks in advanced!
#43
Sorry guys haven't been on in a while do to work and other stuff. So I have run into a few issues.
1. Truck will not go in gear at all. It started where I had to wiggle it to get it into 1st gear. Now it sounds as if the clutch was not engaging all the way. When I try to engage any gear you can hear the revs start to creep down. I don't see any leaks any where. Do you think its bypassing internally? Forgot to mention the arm is moving in and out just not sure its moving in and out all the way? Upon further research I think it might be the shifter bushings?
2. This one involves my brake booster. So the truck is idling at 700 rpms. Rev the engine or bump the throttle and it hangs at 1000 rpms. Now I step on the brake pedal and the rpms drop back to 700 and then start to bounce between 400-700 rpms??? Brake pedal firms up then sinks down after the revs drop? Gonna check my idle speed screw tomorrow.
3. Another brake issue just different area. I installed all new pads and rotors and on the front right I here squealing?!?! Took everything apart and cant see anything that would cause it?
Before all this I was tooling around with little to no issues. Please offer any advice that you can! I'm all ears
1. Truck will not go in gear at all. It started where I had to wiggle it to get it into 1st gear. Now it sounds as if the clutch was not engaging all the way. When I try to engage any gear you can hear the revs start to creep down. I don't see any leaks any where. Do you think its bypassing internally? Forgot to mention the arm is moving in and out just not sure its moving in and out all the way? Upon further research I think it might be the shifter bushings?
2. This one involves my brake booster. So the truck is idling at 700 rpms. Rev the engine or bump the throttle and it hangs at 1000 rpms. Now I step on the brake pedal and the rpms drop back to 700 and then start to bounce between 400-700 rpms??? Brake pedal firms up then sinks down after the revs drop? Gonna check my idle speed screw tomorrow.
3. Another brake issue just different area. I installed all new pads and rotors and on the front right I here squealing?!?! Took everything apart and cant see anything that would cause it?
Before all this I was tooling around with little to no issues. Please offer any advice that you can! I'm all ears
Last edited by rumdumb; Oct 29, 2014 at 02:17 PM.
#44
Shifter bushing
Here are some pics. What do you guys think. Clutch master looks new and so does the slave. Gonna order one from Marlin Crawler regardless.
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by rumdumb; Oct 30, 2014 at 07:06 AM.
#46
Update...
I think I got the idle speed screw worked out. Well have to wait to be 100% sure do to the shifter bushing. And on a side note I finally got rid of that dang random miss!!
Through some research I found a little trick where you cut a piece of a coke can or what ever can you have and slide it on the aft section of the intake where the egr connects. BOOM...she purrs like a kitten!!!! What a relief...
Through some research I found a little trick where you cut a piece of a coke can or what ever can you have and slide it on the aft section of the intake where the egr connects. BOOM...she purrs like a kitten!!!! What a relief...
#47
Update...
Well I installed the MC shifter bushing and it didnt fix the problem. So I decided to adjust my clutch pedal and it seem to let me shift gears except onocasion. Meaning it seems like I have to force it in or i push pass a notch and then it goes in? Does that make any sense?
Let me do a little back story that might help. A few months ago my clutch cancel switch stopped working. I didn't pay much attention as I thought it was the little rubber peice fell out and I was fine using my clutch cancel switch on my dash. I checked for that grommet yesterday and it was still there. I pressed the clutch down and it would not hit the switch? I have heard of broken brackets but I didnt see anything or movement. Then the hard to get in gear started. Now all the gears where difficult to get into except reverse wich would just grind. Things I have checked:
1. Fuild leak - None
2. Still need to check fluid in tranny.
3. Adjusted pedal and clutch cancel button under dash.
What could be the issue?
Synchroes?
Worn out forks?
It does not pop out of gear or grind except when I was trying to put it in reverse (before adjusted).
Let me do a little back story that might help. A few months ago my clutch cancel switch stopped working. I didn't pay much attention as I thought it was the little rubber peice fell out and I was fine using my clutch cancel switch on my dash. I checked for that grommet yesterday and it was still there. I pressed the clutch down and it would not hit the switch? I have heard of broken brackets but I didnt see anything or movement. Then the hard to get in gear started. Now all the gears where difficult to get into except reverse wich would just grind. Things I have checked:1. Fuild leak - None
2. Still need to check fluid in tranny.
3. Adjusted pedal and clutch cancel button under dash.
What could be the issue?
Synchroes?
Worn out forks?
It does not pop out of gear or grind except when I was trying to put it in reverse (before adjusted).
#48
You're in Boca, right? We've talked on MUD a couple times, didn't realize you were over here too. I'm in Coral Springs, so not too far down the road.
Great progress! I'm going to do that soda can trick...I have pulled all the vacuum lines from my EGR, but I haven't officially blocked it off with anything.
I really don't know what to say about your clutch issue. I know there was a similar issue long ago on here somewhere and somebody mentioned that it could be that soft line that goes from the frame to the clutch slave cylinder. That line can flex from age and basicially ruins the travel of your little slave piston. It's only a few dollars, so that could be something to look at.
Good luck.
Great progress! I'm going to do that soda can trick...I have pulled all the vacuum lines from my EGR, but I haven't officially blocked it off with anything.
I really don't know what to say about your clutch issue. I know there was a similar issue long ago on here somewhere and somebody mentioned that it could be that soft line that goes from the frame to the clutch slave cylinder. That line can flex from age and basicially ruins the travel of your little slave piston. It's only a few dollars, so that could be something to look at.
Good luck.
#49
Yeah I'm in Boca. Haven't been real active on either board do to working so much! The can trick worked awesome and I highly recommend it. As far as my transmission goes I'm just gonna keep working on it till I get it right...well that actually goes for the entire truck. Haha
#50
The clutch fork doesn't move much at all. I have gotten wrong parts at the local part store. Might try adjust the nut on the clutch Master Cylinder. I forget which way I had to adjust the nut, but what you are trying to do is cause the push rod to be pushed in further. I have heard of the bracket having a crack in it and not letting it push the rod all the way in.
Is the plug to the switch making good contact. It is located right up at the fire wall just before it goes out the into the inner fender. I currently have a jumper wire in my 85 as I don't have a Cancel Switch at this time. Just keeps me from having to get into the cab each time I want to start it without having to hold the clutch in. Just a piece of wire jumping the contacts to the connector on the harness.
Might check the switch or the plug on our Clutch Cancel Switch.
Is the plug to the switch making good contact. It is located right up at the fire wall just before it goes out the into the inner fender. I currently have a jumper wire in my 85 as I don't have a Cancel Switch at this time. Just keeps me from having to get into the cab each time I want to start it without having to hold the clutch in. Just a piece of wire jumping the contacts to the connector on the harness.
Might check the switch or the plug on our Clutch Cancel Switch.
#51
Thanks Terry
Well here is where I'm at and maybe you guys can give me some hints.
I decided to readjust the pedal height, engagement point, and also adjusted the clutch sensor. Pushed in clutch turned key and it fired up with out having to use clutch cancel button. Then I try to shift through gears. No problem at all. Drive around a little bit and no real issues except on occasion I would have to wiggle shifter to get in first gear. Now fast forward to today (truck has been sitting idle all week). After reading Terry's post I went outside fired it up and went to put in gear to take it to work. Well it won't go into gear at all even if I wiggle it. It will grind going into reverse. What could it be? I didn't see any cracks in the clutch pedal assymbly. I guess new master and slave are in order to eliminate them. I'm stumped!
I decided to readjust the pedal height, engagement point, and also adjusted the clutch sensor. Pushed in clutch turned key and it fired up with out having to use clutch cancel button. Then I try to shift through gears. No problem at all. Drive around a little bit and no real issues except on occasion I would have to wiggle shifter to get in first gear. Now fast forward to today (truck has been sitting idle all week). After reading Terry's post I went outside fired it up and went to put in gear to take it to work. Well it won't go into gear at all even if I wiggle it. It will grind going into reverse. What could it be? I didn't see any cracks in the clutch pedal assymbly. I guess new master and slave are in order to eliminate them. I'm stumped!
#52
I just fought that battle today with my brothers truck. It started out with a leaky slave cylinder the other day. Today we had to change out the master cylinder. I am wondering if the new seals increased pressure to the master cylinder and caused it to fail two days later. Hopefully we got it fixed for good. Might give that a try. The master cylinder seemed to be operating fine but there is only the master and slave cylinder and the lines involved.
#53
might be a dumb question but, is your slave cylinder fastened securely to the tranny? it sounds like the clutch is not engaging correctly,
Well I installed the MC shifter bushing and it didnt fix the problem. So I decided to adjust my clutch pedal and it seem to let me shift gears except onocasion. Meaning it seems like I have to force it in or i push pass a notch and then it goes in? Does that make any sense?
Let me do a little back story that might help. A few months ago my clutch cancel switch stopped working. I didn't pay much attention as I thought it was the little rubber peice fell out and I was fine using my clutch cancel switch on my dash. I checked for that grommet yesterday and it was still there. I pressed the clutch down and it would not hit the switch? I have heard of broken brackets but I didnt see anything or movement. Then the hard to get in gear started. Now all the gears where difficult to get into except reverse wich would just grind. Things I have checked:
1. Fuild leak - None
2. Still need to check fluid in tranny.
3. Adjusted pedal and clutch cancel button under dash.
What could be the issue?
Synchroes?
Worn out forks?
It does not pop out of gear or grind except when I was trying to put it in reverse (before adjusted).
Let me do a little back story that might help. A few months ago my clutch cancel switch stopped working. I didn't pay much attention as I thought it was the little rubber peice fell out and I was fine using my clutch cancel switch on my dash. I checked for that grommet yesterday and it was still there. I pressed the clutch down and it would not hit the switch? I have heard of broken brackets but I didnt see anything or movement. Then the hard to get in gear started. Now all the gears where difficult to get into except reverse wich would just grind. Things I have checked:1. Fuild leak - None
2. Still need to check fluid in tranny.
3. Adjusted pedal and clutch cancel button under dash.
What could be the issue?
Synchroes?
Worn out forks?
It does not pop out of gear or grind except when I was trying to put it in reverse (before adjusted).
#54
Well I installed new calipers and replaced the clutch master/slave. Got the brakes bleed with no issues. The clutch master/slave is another story! Long story short I gave up. I run the 4Runner every weekend for about 10-15 mins. After taking a break from working on the clutch I decided to fire it up for a few minutes. The engine started missing! That's where I lost it. I've owened this truck for a year and have put 260 miles on it and it has fought me the entire way! I turned it off. Cleaned my tools and called a reputable mechanic and told him to come get it! He picked it up last night. Hope to have it back within a week or two.
#56
For Sale
My 4Runner does not have the tow capacity to tow my new boat and trailer. So I decided to get a new Trail Team 4Runner. That means the 4Runner and my Lexus are for sale. A proper for sale thread will be posted in a couple days.
Thanks
Thanks
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