Mountain Cop's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread - "FireRunner"
I hope Mommy and Baby are doing well, yeah go get some sleep while you still can! 
02-11-2010, 08:12 PM
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First things first:
Now- on to business.
I *think* i have finally isolated the ground problem... after spending some time chasing the switched ground in the headlight switch that appears to be planned. Thanks to Malteserunner for pointing that out.
While the headlight switch may operate on the negative side of things, I'm pretty sure that the alternator doesn't.My alt + feed was grounded. Alt is out. Bench testing at local O'Reilly's / Kragens confirmed that it was dead.
I ordered a 130amp rewound alternator from Grant Rebuilders (www.startersalternators.com/toyota). The part from Kragen's was 85.00 for a 60 amp. I got the 130 amp shipped for $112. See this thread for a little more info on Grant: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-shot-200942/
The nice thing about Grant is that I don't need to bother sending my core in. It makes it quicker than a lot of other options, and is much cheaper. Now I have a dead alternator... sounds like I have something to dissect during the next rain storm.
The next thing on the list is the windshield. Hopefully I will get something done on that front tomorrow. When it charges correctly and I can see out of the windshield, it will be close enough to daylight legal that I should be able to drive it home and start stripping the rest of the melted junk off. I also have to figure out what to do about the dash. For now, I will probably just reassemble the stock conglomeration. It is nice to see how it is attached though, and definitely makes me think that a one or two-piece simple sheet metal dash might be in order down the road. I think I will wait and collect gauges first.
MC
Now- on to business.
I *think* i have finally isolated the ground problem... after spending some time chasing the switched ground in the headlight switch that appears to be planned. Thanks to Malteserunner for pointing that out.
While the headlight switch may operate on the negative side of things, I'm pretty sure that the alternator doesn't.My alt + feed was grounded. Alt is out. Bench testing at local O'Reilly's / Kragens confirmed that it was dead.
I ordered a 130amp rewound alternator from Grant Rebuilders (www.startersalternators.com/toyota). The part from Kragen's was 85.00 for a 60 amp. I got the 130 amp shipped for $112. See this thread for a little more info on Grant: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-shot-200942/
The nice thing about Grant is that I don't need to bother sending my core in. It makes it quicker than a lot of other options, and is much cheaper. Now I have a dead alternator... sounds like I have something to dissect during the next rain storm.
The next thing on the list is the windshield. Hopefully I will get something done on that front tomorrow. When it charges correctly and I can see out of the windshield, it will be close enough to daylight legal that I should be able to drive it home and start stripping the rest of the melted junk off. I also have to figure out what to do about the dash. For now, I will probably just reassemble the stock conglomeration. It is nice to see how it is attached though, and definitely makes me think that a one or two-piece simple sheet metal dash might be in order down the road. I think I will wait and collect gauges first.
MC
Last edited by Mountain Cop; 02-11-2010 at 08:22 PM. Reason: My grammar sucketh.
02-11-2010, 09:54 PM
#50
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Hey Congratulations Daddy! Give Mommy a big hug from all of us here at YT.
What a little angel...
biz side... yeah the alt. is an entirely + animal... Toyota uses neg. switching for just about everything else.
What a little angel...
biz side... yeah the alt. is an entirely + animal... Toyota uses neg. switching for just about everything else.
02-11-2010, 10:16 PM
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Hey Aviator- I'm going to assume that your moniker is due to being an aviator and not simply from an awesome choice of glasses... You ever think of running an airplane-style altimeter and attitude indicator on a truck? Attitude Indicator requires a positive vacuum, correct? Can you think of any reason that this couldn't be done?
02-12-2010, 10:08 AM
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Thanks! Hopefully she will enjoy the outdoors enough to be as interested in it at 13 as your son is. That is a great build thread you guys have going.
02-12-2010, 11:52 AM
#54
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Thank you very much.
My sons, ages 14(now) and 8 very much are into these trucks. If I had an endless supply of money, it would be more fun for us all.
It's a learning experience for us all, since I have no previous experience.
My sons, ages 14(now) and 8 very much are into these trucks. If I had an endless supply of money, it would be more fun for us all.
It's a learning experience for us all, since I have no previous experience.
02-12-2010, 09:18 PM
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Hey Aviator- I'm going to assume that your moniker is due to being an aviator and not simply from an awesome choice of glasses... You ever think of running an airplane-style altimeter and attitude indicator on a truck? Attitude Indicator requires a positive vacuum, correct? Can you think of any reason that this couldn't be done?
Plumbing and vacuum rate are another issue. IDK if the engine puts out enough vacuum on it's own to run them. You'd probably need a separate vacuum pump. which runs to bucks...
I've heard there are elec. drive AIs which may be an option but I've never looked into it that far.
Aircraft instruments are generally cost prohibitive for this application, but since you've piqued my curiosity I'll look into it and see what I can find out.
02-13-2010, 12:16 PM
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Aviator- Yeah, it was just an idea, but it could be pretty cool. The size wouldn't be an issue if you were making a custom flat dash anyway.
Everyone about the baby- Thanks! We like her, despite her insistence on teaching us the value of "poop shrapnel".
I stripped the carpet out yesterday. I'm going to redo the interior with Hurculiner as soon as I get the carpet adhesive removed. I'm soaking it in WD40 for now.
The windshield is getting replaced on Monday afternoon. Hopefully I will have the thing driving by the end of next week- when I go back to work anyway.
I'm having to do a total system restore on my computer or I would be able to post pics of the stripped out interior. I'm using my wife's computer right now. Sometimes computers seem to be more trouble than they are worth. Other times.... there is Yotatech.
Also, I'm a bit surprised that I didn't notice before that I was missing the upper portion of the driver's side rear seat. I have the headrest, but not the back. Looks like I will be doing some hunting through pick a part.
Everyone about the baby- Thanks! We like her, despite her insistence on teaching us the value of "poop shrapnel".
I stripped the carpet out yesterday. I'm going to redo the interior with Hurculiner as soon as I get the carpet adhesive removed. I'm soaking it in WD40 for now.
The windshield is getting replaced on Monday afternoon. Hopefully I will have the thing driving by the end of next week- when I go back to work anyway.
I'm having to do a total system restore on my computer or I would be able to post pics of the stripped out interior. I'm using my wife's computer right now. Sometimes computers seem to be more trouble than they are worth. Other times.... there is Yotatech.
Also, I'm a bit surprised that I didn't notice before that I was missing the upper portion of the driver's side rear seat. I have the headrest, but not the back. Looks like I will be doing some hunting through pick a part.
02-13-2010, 08:11 PM
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I suggest against using herculiner in the interior. In my experience wherever anything has constant rubbing(like where drivers right foot pivots from gas to brake pedals) it will rub away and then the sorrounding area will start peeling off.
I also found that it traps the moisture under it making stuff more prone to rust,
I also found that it traps the moisture under it making stuff more prone to rust,
02-13-2010, 09:03 PM
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I got the dash almost all the way reassembled today. Just a few more screws, the heater control faceplate and the glove box to put in.
I did an experiment with the carpet adhesive. I put WD40 on one side and mineral spirits on the other. The mineral spirits were the undisputed winner. The carpet started coming up in nice big spots, leaving shiny 24-year-old paint exposed. A little work with some steel wool, a wire brush and a putty knife should get the rest of it without too much trouble.
When I pulled the carpet, I exposed a few small wiring harnesses and the gas cap door release cable. The cable will be removed. The gas cap door was replaced years ago with a locking one. The lock is broken, but it is easier for me to replace that than it is to deal with covering up the cable with Hurculiner or rerouting it. The seatbelt buzzers will be eliminated, and the rear window control switches will be moved to the dash.
I started annoying the charred paint a bit with some mineral spirits and steel wool. It worked very well. With a little bit of elbow grease, I was able to smooth out a lot of the ruined paint. I will go at it again after I pressure wash the whole thing. That will wait until I can drive the car to the carwash- a goal which seems closer every day. The melted plastics are going to be harder to fix, but a bit of sanding will probably work.
The fiberglass may need a bit more attention. As I began to rub paint off, the fibers were getting exposed. A little bit of resin might fix the problem once the paint is gone. The rearmost window gasket looks pretty bad, but when I sprayed the car off with a hose a couple of weeks ago, I didn't notice any leaking. I will have to just wait and see how it does.
The entire windshield washing/wiping apparatus will have to be replaced, I fear. The only thing that I am certain is still good is the reservoir. The motor might be fine, but the motor plug is pretty melted. I haven't tested it yet.
Having traced the wiring through, I have the theory that my headlight relay is burnt out. The switched ground is fine, and the headlights work when I use jumpers from the battery. I have a couple of 30amp and 40amp relays, so if nothing else works, I will just build a simple new harness. I'd like to replace the headlight plugs with something a little higher quality, and a little less melted, anyway.
I have been removing all the little metal trim pieces from the body as I work. So far, I haven't noticed any rust topside, but there was a very small bit of it on the right fender. Nothing to worry about or patch, but worth sanding down and protecting a bit when I paint down the road.
I'm hopefull to actually drive the thing home by the end of next week.
I did an experiment with the carpet adhesive. I put WD40 on one side and mineral spirits on the other. The mineral spirits were the undisputed winner. The carpet started coming up in nice big spots, leaving shiny 24-year-old paint exposed. A little work with some steel wool, a wire brush and a putty knife should get the rest of it without too much trouble.
When I pulled the carpet, I exposed a few small wiring harnesses and the gas cap door release cable. The cable will be removed. The gas cap door was replaced years ago with a locking one. The lock is broken, but it is easier for me to replace that than it is to deal with covering up the cable with Hurculiner or rerouting it. The seatbelt buzzers will be eliminated, and the rear window control switches will be moved to the dash.
I started annoying the charred paint a bit with some mineral spirits and steel wool. It worked very well. With a little bit of elbow grease, I was able to smooth out a lot of the ruined paint. I will go at it again after I pressure wash the whole thing. That will wait until I can drive the car to the carwash- a goal which seems closer every day. The melted plastics are going to be harder to fix, but a bit of sanding will probably work.
The fiberglass may need a bit more attention. As I began to rub paint off, the fibers were getting exposed. A little bit of resin might fix the problem once the paint is gone. The rearmost window gasket looks pretty bad, but when I sprayed the car off with a hose a couple of weeks ago, I didn't notice any leaking. I will have to just wait and see how it does.
The entire windshield washing/wiping apparatus will have to be replaced, I fear. The only thing that I am certain is still good is the reservoir. The motor might be fine, but the motor plug is pretty melted. I haven't tested it yet.
Having traced the wiring through, I have the theory that my headlight relay is burnt out. The switched ground is fine, and the headlights work when I use jumpers from the battery. I have a couple of 30amp and 40amp relays, so if nothing else works, I will just build a simple new harness. I'd like to replace the headlight plugs with something a little higher quality, and a little less melted, anyway.
I have been removing all the little metal trim pieces from the body as I work. So far, I haven't noticed any rust topside, but there was a very small bit of it on the right fender. Nothing to worry about or patch, but worth sanding down and protecting a bit when I paint down the road.
I'm hopefull to actually drive the thing home by the end of next week.
02-13-2010, 09:06 PM
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As far as the Hurculiner goes, I've used it successfully in the pased in this type of application. The trick seems to be multiple thin coats, and actually using an etching primer first. It seems to stick better that way. In any case, I will be prepping the interior prior to applying the Hurculiner, and will still be using floormats. I would think that the prep work would eliminate the moisture factor, as it is the same process as using paint.
MC
MC
