kornhusker wizards 89 4runner build thread
Sep 18, 2014 | 05:22 PM
#924
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: tecumseh nebraska
I think I figured out my brake problem,I cut the rod off the lpsv when I lifted the rear.don't do that...it cuts off your rear brakes....I tried bleeding them and not a drop came out of either rear bleeders.Im gonna bypass it. Its not a justifiable option in my opinion.
Sep 19, 2014 | 04:45 AM
#925
I think I figured out my brake problem,I cut the rod off the lpsv when I lifted the rear.don't do that...it cuts off your rear brakes....I tried bleeding them and not a drop came out of either rear bleeders.Im gonna bypass it. Its not a justifiable option in my opinion.
Sep 21, 2014 | 03:00 PM
#930
What I was going to do on the build for a buddy thread was literally remove the entire valve and send the brake lines to a standard splitter, them to the wheel cylinders.
I can try and snap some pictures tomorrow
I can try and snap some pictures tomorrow
Sep 21, 2014 | 05:49 PM
#931
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,025
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From: Northen Indiana
Sep 23, 2014 | 04:25 AM
#933
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 388
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From: denver colorado
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52106186
I did this about a year ago. I included a few pictures and the thread size you need. I actually just got another bracket to weld on the threaded 90 in place of the T. This is behind the front passenger tire. The lspv is behind the rear passenger tire. You only have to remove the return line to make it work. Once it's out you can remove the lspv. I used a union on the rear and a bolt up front with thread tape. The union doesn't need thread tape as it's tapered.
I did this about a year ago. I included a few pictures and the thread size you need. I actually just got another bracket to weld on the threaded 90 in place of the T. This is behind the front passenger tire. The lspv is behind the rear passenger tire. You only have to remove the return line to make it work. Once it's out you can remove the lspv. I used a union on the rear and a bolt up front with thread tape. The union doesn't need thread tape as it's tapered.
Sep 23, 2014 | 05:30 AM
#934
Sep 23, 2014 | 06:02 AM
#935
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 388
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From: denver colorado
I would recommend finding a manual proportioning valve as now both front and rear brakes will get the same amount of pressure. As you apply brakes the load will shift to the front causing the rear of the vehicle to raise and begin to lock the rear brakes. It only happened to me once and on a dirt road. I've been very careful about it and now with winter coming I need to install one soon.
Sep 23, 2014 | 09:29 AM
#936
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 705
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From: Colorado
I have this sitting in my garage awaiting installation
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi...8419/overview/
should fix your problem...but then again i haven't tried it yet
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi...8419/overview/
should fix your problem...but then again i haven't tried it yet
Sep 23, 2014 | 11:18 PM
#939
See you got the fender on. I got stuck due to the ball hitch hitting the ground. If you leave it on you never use it. The minute you take it off you will need it 5 times in one day. Farmers and their fences, lol..
