Jason in tn's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#1261
Wow! Awesome idea! Never even crossed my mind, other than what I already knew: That you brainstorm with a few of us from time to time.... Especially Terry, I'm sure.
Excited!
Excited!
#1263
Thanks guys that you have the confidence in me getting it fixed up, especially you Jason. We are still brainstorming, but some that I can recall right off and is more of a note to myself is to first get it running again and see what is holding it down. I feel confident in knowing the injector circuitry. Then getting the hood painted back again.
The fuel system is what started the issues, I will be pulling the tank and cleaning it as well. I will make sure the fuel lines are clear while at it. I know the return lines can get clogged.
Starting from front to back. I will be using carriage bolts to hold the bumper caps on. Then the dash will be coming out and getting painted and I will go thru the heater wires and cleaning out the ventilation system while having the dashout and be looking for any other issues while in there. Give the headlight switch a good cleaning to head off any problems there.
I will see if I can come up with a fix for the passenger seat sliding cable. Fix and paint any rear panels that need done. I think he has already done it, but will do the ground wire trick for the back window and do the center console.
Him or me one is going to find some carpet remnant to finish up the trunk area. Look at his SR5 Guage and fix any issues that may be there and get the lense looking new again. Steering column cover will be painted to the dash. He has the speedo bezel that we both prefer and get it painted to the dash.
Clean the engine sensors, grease all the connections. Tighten all bolts, for as much as this truck was torn down, it is most likely going to have some loose and to get rid of any noises as possible. Anteena and window sills.
Repaint the hood and any trim that is needed. Check all circuitry functions.
Most of this post is a note to myself and I will add more as I think of it. When completed, I plan on having it where he can drive it home and feel like he is back in 1986 again.
The fuel system is what started the issues, I will be pulling the tank and cleaning it as well. I will make sure the fuel lines are clear while at it. I know the return lines can get clogged.
Starting from front to back. I will be using carriage bolts to hold the bumper caps on. Then the dash will be coming out and getting painted and I will go thru the heater wires and cleaning out the ventilation system while having the dashout and be looking for any other issues while in there. Give the headlight switch a good cleaning to head off any problems there.
I will see if I can come up with a fix for the passenger seat sliding cable. Fix and paint any rear panels that need done. I think he has already done it, but will do the ground wire trick for the back window and do the center console.
Him or me one is going to find some carpet remnant to finish up the trunk area. Look at his SR5 Guage and fix any issues that may be there and get the lense looking new again. Steering column cover will be painted to the dash. He has the speedo bezel that we both prefer and get it painted to the dash.
Clean the engine sensors, grease all the connections. Tighten all bolts, for as much as this truck was torn down, it is most likely going to have some loose and to get rid of any noises as possible. Anteena and window sills.
Repaint the hood and any trim that is needed. Check all circuitry functions.
Most of this post is a note to myself and I will add more as I think of it. When completed, I plan on having it where he can drive it home and feel like he is back in 1986 again.
Last edited by Terrys87; Oct 7, 2013 at 02:47 AM.
#1264
Ok so with the decition made to take the old girl to the master and let him do his thing I decided there are still a few things that needed done that terry cant do (he doesnt have a welder). I needed to get the bumper filler brackets welded back on.


I also decided to throw the hitch on, tired of triping over the durn thing. maybe its normal but I was suprixed I had to drill holes in the frame, and then it was just trying to remember how mark told me it all went together but I think I got it.

I also started rounding odds and ends parts that seem to be scatered every where,its still gonna be a bit before this all takes place but Im taking the time I have to try and get evrything together and ready to go.


I also decided to throw the hitch on, tired of triping over the durn thing. maybe its normal but I was suprixed I had to drill holes in the frame, and then it was just trying to remember how mark told me it all went together but I think I got it.

I also started rounding odds and ends parts that seem to be scatered every where,its still gonna be a bit before this all takes place but Im taking the time I have to try and get evrything together and ready to go.
Last edited by jason in tn; Oct 19, 2013 at 04:45 PM.
#1268
Piece by piece your runner has come along ways from where it was. The receiver hitches come in several different configurations. I have seen 3 and none of them were the same brand. They all work great and you will use more then what you will think.
#1270
Thank you for the compliment. Unfortunately no its not finished yet, after a series of set backs I have decided to have my good friend and toyota guru terrys87 finish it for me and we are currently trying to work out all the details on that.
#1271
Last edited by Terrys87; Jan 23, 2014 at 12:06 PM.
#1272
well I was hopeing to have some really good news to post tonight but no such luck. I found a guy n CL parting out an 86 runner, I picked up te engine/injctor harness as well as the computer and a few of the molded vacume lines. swaped everything in today and other han fixing some of the fire damage no change, still starts for a few seconds and thats it. I disconected the fuel return line to check for fuel and noticed that Im getting very little fuel to the return, somtimesnone at all which is a little diferent than before I always had penty of fuel to that point before. still panning on letting terry have a go at it but I thought Id see what I could get done.
#1274
I'm so sorry... I just had a massive post written out for you and hit the back button twice instead of return... I'm going to go kill something really quick and I'll be back! Lol. Obviously I'm just kidding .
Basically I had to run down a list, and focused on the few things that can definitely cut the injector signal. Many things work with the ECU, like the air flow meter and coolant temperature sensor and TPS and the air flow meter(all sending signals to the ECU which then regulates injector pulse/ whether or not the fuel pressure regulator VSV needs to kick in, etc. ) which also has quite a bit to do with the fuel pump staying in operation once the vehicle is it idle and the vane is open enough to actuate it. The ambient temperature sensor related to THA terminal sends readings to the ECU as well, which determines, in part, the injector action. I seem to remember you telling me that you've already swapped in a known working air flow meter. Right?
I worked on this guys rig in Long Beach with him for days. We disassembled and reassembled the motor, because many of the timing cover bolts were not measured or templated, etc. There was much more to it than that, but the bottom line is it needed to be broken down again. Upon full assembly, he went to fire it up when I was not there and he said it was purring... But he didn't want to run it without any exhaust for too long, etcetera. The next day, I showed up and it would not start. Eventually we pulled the plenum, then we pulled the rail with the injectors still inserted, held that over a towel and fired it over, they would squirt once or twice and that was it. We screwed with it for quite a while... With the key on you could turn the distributor rotor with the distributor out of the truck and the injectors would fire a couple of times. Each time you turn the key on off it would do this. Later that day I had to leave again, but the trucks owner finally pried out of the owner of the shop where he was building it that he could not say without a doubt whether he installed the distributor properly after he had pulled it out. They pulled the distributor and valve cover, got a top dead center check check check and put the dimple just b4 the cam/distributor drive gear , turned it over and it fired right up. I know that we've talked about this before... So I feel stupid even bringing it up, but after all you've been through, what the heck right?
I'm doubting you are wanting to try that... But if you pull the plenum, reinstall the injector harness ground on the back stud of the intake, then fire it over, maybe you could verify whether you are getting any injector action at all. I would definitely look into why there is insufficient fuel coming back through the return line, first, before going that far... But if you have full pressure at the cold start injector, past the fuel pressure regulator,.... I can't see why you would have such low pressure from the return line. But that does beg the question... Is it possible that you have a malfunctioning fuel pump that is not providing enough pressure to even get those built in injector solenoid from actuating?
Also, forgive me, but I have to ask again if you have looked into the COR or AFM as possible suspects? Trying this other ECU it would seem that since you have the same problem is not likely at all to be the No.10 or No.20 pin circuits that are fried..... Hmmm....
I just refreshed myself on the fuel cut rpm system testing procedure.... I was in the book just fishing around for something I might have missed... I got caught up pretty quickly considering how many times I've done this series of tests for everything.
Gimme a call, now that the madness is slowing down for me, please? Wanna catch up AND chat this over . I have an idea
Basically I had to run down a list, and focused on the few things that can definitely cut the injector signal. Many things work with the ECU, like the air flow meter and coolant temperature sensor and TPS and the air flow meter(all sending signals to the ECU which then regulates injector pulse/ whether or not the fuel pressure regulator VSV needs to kick in, etc. ) which also has quite a bit to do with the fuel pump staying in operation once the vehicle is it idle and the vane is open enough to actuate it. The ambient temperature sensor related to THA terminal sends readings to the ECU as well, which determines, in part, the injector action. I seem to remember you telling me that you've already swapped in a known working air flow meter. Right?
I worked on this guys rig in Long Beach with him for days. We disassembled and reassembled the motor, because many of the timing cover bolts were not measured or templated, etc. There was much more to it than that, but the bottom line is it needed to be broken down again. Upon full assembly, he went to fire it up when I was not there and he said it was purring... But he didn't want to run it without any exhaust for too long, etcetera. The next day, I showed up and it would not start. Eventually we pulled the plenum, then we pulled the rail with the injectors still inserted, held that over a towel and fired it over, they would squirt once or twice and that was it. We screwed with it for quite a while... With the key on you could turn the distributor rotor with the distributor out of the truck and the injectors would fire a couple of times. Each time you turn the key on off it would do this. Later that day I had to leave again, but the trucks owner finally pried out of the owner of the shop where he was building it that he could not say without a doubt whether he installed the distributor properly after he had pulled it out. They pulled the distributor and valve cover, got a top dead center check check check and put the dimple just b4 the cam/distributor drive gear , turned it over and it fired right up. I know that we've talked about this before... So I feel stupid even bringing it up, but after all you've been through, what the heck right?
I'm doubting you are wanting to try that... But if you pull the plenum, reinstall the injector harness ground on the back stud of the intake, then fire it over, maybe you could verify whether you are getting any injector action at all. I would definitely look into why there is insufficient fuel coming back through the return line, first, before going that far... But if you have full pressure at the cold start injector, past the fuel pressure regulator,.... I can't see why you would have such low pressure from the return line. But that does beg the question... Is it possible that you have a malfunctioning fuel pump that is not providing enough pressure to even get those built in injector solenoid from actuating?
Also, forgive me, but I have to ask again if you have looked into the COR or AFM as possible suspects? Trying this other ECU it would seem that since you have the same problem is not likely at all to be the No.10 or No.20 pin circuits that are fried..... Hmmm....
I just refreshed myself on the fuel cut rpm system testing procedure.... I was in the book just fishing around for something I might have missed... I got caught up pretty quickly considering how many times I've done this series of tests for everything.
Gimme a call, now that the madness is slowing down for me, please? Wanna catch up AND chat this over . I have an idea
#1275
#1279
I really like the wheels so does the wife and I guess since its her ride they will be staying lol. Im with you I think they will clean up nice.
I have to be honest RED is my least favorite color, thats why mine went from red to yellow but so far shes happy with the red so Im not gonna push changeing it.
#1280
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 720
Likes: 16
From: People's Republic of California
Hahhaha...nah, believe me I kept up on your thread and knew what you were dealing with. I would've went to the Master long before you did.
Look forward to a new build thread 88' SR5 V6 Auto. I just found the same exact vehicle for my buddy's son except it was a manual, we picked it up and trailer'd it back about a month ago. He's gotta rebuild the engine as it had a thrown rod. I was very close to keeping it for myself, but with my current/upcoming Camry project I decided to give him first dibs.
Look forward to a new build thread 88' SR5 V6 Auto. I just found the same exact vehicle for my buddy's son except it was a manual, we picked it up and trailer'd it back about a month ago. He's gotta rebuild the engine as it had a thrown rod. I was very close to keeping it for myself, but with my current/upcoming Camry project I decided to give him first dibs.




