heyy. just the other day one of those temp sensors broke on my truck. and it gave me codes 4 7 & 11. then it caused my truck to surge randomly, when driving. so it could be causing a lot of your problems if its not working right or seeing no water.

 

That's what I was thinking twisted, they are or are supposed to be submerged in water for a reason. Thanks for the input.

 

hi

I'm back.

what'd i miss?

nah....was reading / catching up. you guys make me all nervous about Joe's motor. I hope I have no issues, but I know where to come if we do.

 

Ah Jerry you and Joe will be fine, mark just has the worst luck on planet earth, and me well I'm still feeling good about hearing it run, becouse for a long time I didn't think I would.

 

YEAH, .... what he said, Jerry ^^^! lol.

Hey Jason, wuzup buddy? You must go nuts not being able to come home from work each day til this is done! Thankfully, you got a great attitude about it and DOUBLE THANKFULLY.... it's not your DD! Fhewwwwww! EH? lol.

Far as the coolant temp sensor, YES, I've seen them cause 'surging' ... but I just didn't remember you saying anything about that. Just "No throttle response". Then, you started working the fuel through there, and it began to respond a lil more.... I don't know, I just don't see that coolant temp sensor having anything to do with all the "wont even pop" issues, etc.

I guess I'm just sayin, "PLEASE, test the coolant temp sensor and verify it's needing replacement before you do so?" THEY DO go out, and I know, you were REALLY referring to water not getting to it properly... But honestly? >>> When it's cold, whether submerged or not, it should run in open loop without issue, ya know? You were getting it running recently and then, .... no throttle response, right off the bat. The thermo-temp-time-switch on top of the Thermostat,... can't say for sure on that one.... but one thing that could DEFINITELY be an issue is persistent 'POCKETS OF AIR' all through the coolant system. So, yep, get that hose and try her out, good plan!.... Then run it for a while, jack up the front end as HIGH as you can and squeeze the upper hose while doing so, forcing the air out the radiator.(also doesn't hurt to have a flush adapter around the heater core like I do. Air get's trapped near there and is easily removed/bled.)

 

Hey Chef can you post where in the coolant system your flush adapter is? I'm going to have to do a heater core swap on my daily driver before winter and I'm thinking that would be a good addition at the same time. I should probably put one into the project truck as well.

 

Sure, ...IN fact, I'll post a pic, ....lemme look, brb.....



See, right next to the booster? It could be a lil higher, but it's actually a lil higher than the Radiator Cap. It's actually a flush-kit-T.... And it's NEVER LEAKED in 168K! I'm about to replace all those coolant hoses, brake booster hose and some other things..... so, ....I'll be getting another one, hopefully as good as quality as this one has been.

 

Hey mark I was in no way trying to disagree with you about those temp switches like I said I'm not even sure what the control, I just meant that I think they would do there job better if they were actually reading water temp that's all. As far as affecting how it runs you would know better than me buddy. And yes very aggravating to have let it go for days at a time with out being able to figure it out also very grateful its not my DD.

 

the only reason i brought it up was because when it went out it threw code 7(faulty tps signal) andthought it may be messing with the comp.

but i could be complete wrong though

 

Oh sure, it could cause PLENTY of issues... I'm just saying, from what I've seen, experienced so far and what I've read others experiencing(as well as what the FSM says).... that I didn't see it related to the 'not even popping', let alone 'wouldn't start'... Only cuz, well, the coolant temp has to rise a bit for the sensors to expand the bi-metallic portion and then switch modes, etc. But YES, they can wreak havoc, I agree....and YES, if it was indeed stopping ALL flow of coolant to that portion of the intake/stat housing.... well it'll make for some 'rumble in the jungle' for sure.

ehhh, I guess I just learned not to get my hopes up with things that even seemed TOTALLY likely, ...so I just wanna keep really focused for ya, Jason...

Good looking out, Twisted.... no doubt! and LOVE the project you're tackling, btw! I am in NO WAY an expert.... just know how much of it works/doesn't work... And yet, ..... these REALLY hard to diagnose gremlins keep arising, every day on Yotatech, don't they? lol.

 

Hello Jason.. like Chef said you been really positive even when things dont go like you would like, every now and then we all get thrown for a loop.

A air bubble in the system can cause surging. I have a nice little hill at work I occasionally will pull the front end on to get the radiator higer then the rest of the motor to burp the system. There is another way, I havent tried, but this works quick and easy for me.

You wont need to do it til after you get it running well.

Also you were talking about your temp guage not working. On my thread on #353 that is the sensor. A while back I talking about my wife truck temp guage jumping from mid way to cold. It had a lot of green corrosion on the sensor. It is located below your Cold Start Injector and has a blue wire on it. It will take a 17mm deep well to get out. If you got big hands it can be trick to get back in.

I have a couple of intakes that I am cleaning up tomorrow and will put a pic up of a corroded one if it is bad. Wish I would of taken a pic of the wifes before I cleaned it. I just took a brass brush to it and it works great. I brillo pad or scuff pad would probably work just as great.

Dont know if your has the rear heater option. Some do and it will be located inbetween the front seats. If yours does have it, apparently you need to use a Dual Stage Thermostat. I just found this out recently and havent looked into it, but will this winter when I winterize my trucks. Only applies to 4Runners with rear heater from the way I understand it.

Chef...That is where I put my flush kits also, I use Prestons and only get about 2 years and they will leak. I have the black pipe below the cap to split on me. At first I thought I might have put the hose clamps on to tight. What brand you using. Your is whitish. No way have I got 168k on one without problems.

 

Mark come on man, you have to know I'm smart enough not to think a by pass hose would be causing all my no start bad run issues. I only thought that maybe it was affecting the csi or the tps in some small way. Or like twisted said causing a code, I was only saying it needs fixed. I'm not at all looking at it like an easy fix.
Hey Terry I remember you fixing that sensor in your wife's truck and planed on doing the same, I mean why not at least check it right.

 

Hey Terry, .... Yeah, it's a kit I got at Napa, and I think it was prestone, .....but it's 10 years old, at least! Maybe they just don't make them like they used to so you will go get another? Personally, if I did it again, I would go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get a GOOD QUALITY brass T, specifically sized for my hoses. In fact, when I replace those heater hoses, all of them, that's what I'll do. But for now, they're working, and still, believe it or not, have a lil flexibility, hahaha.

Jason, ....... are you serious? You know me, man, ....I'm a KNOB, ....a knob that happens to have learned a lot over a year and a half and that is now forgetting at a more rapid pace than I learned it! hahahahaha. No, but really, .... I'm mentioning things OUT LOUD, as though, well, just like when we talk to ourselves out in the garage, holding a wrench above the beast while threatening, "C'MON YOU SOB, I SWEAR I WANNA LIGHT YOU ON FIRE AND..... Wait, I didn't mean that, sorry, don't BREED gremlins now that I cursed ya!" HAHAHAHA! C'mon, .....anyone hasn't been there, well, ...they're lucky, and I don't begrudge them ONE BIT, ....but it's just not COMMON for first timing with these motors to have NOT ONE ISSUE! lol.

I think you know I have much respect and appreciation for you and your friendship, Jason... why would I insult your intelligence? Hmmm? lol.

 

Oh yeah, and,.... for all I know IT IS a huge source of your problems, in combination with the POSSIBLY really dirty fuel, etc. I usually say, "I just don't see" or "I don't think", .... but when I mention that I've gathered is being guessed(whether I'm wrong or not), I never say "Hey, duhhhhhhhh, there's just no way, dudditz!" lol. I'm a Helpful Happy Camper Style Guy! hahahaha.

Far as the mention, above, of "The guage is by the CSI"..... Just below it in the middle of the intake, mounted so it faces upward with the single wire plug.... and even the connector should be blue(not sure on 86 compared to 87... these jerks seemed to change a few things between the years though! lol) My bouncing of the gauge wound up being, however, a faulty gauge within the cluster...the portion below the oil temp gauge. That was bad on mine too, I thought, so I just swapped in those gauges into my cluster, as I wanted my original cluster with original miles in it to remain, ya know?

You could do the LED thing if you're in there(if it ends up being the cluster gauge, not the sensor)...... But maybe it's just that wire came loose? I hope so

 

OK OK OK, mark you know way more about these trucks than I do hands down. To clarify what I was trying to say, I assumed that with the CSI timer being in a water jacket that it sensed water temp to shut off, maybe causing part of my running rich issue. No more no less my other point was I'm sure they are not doing what they are supposed to if there is no water. The last thing I want to do is step on toes I rely on your help to much.

 

Hahaha, no worries, ...and didn't mean to offend, homie!

Starting over, .....

1. it was SO PINCHED that NOTHING could travel through there?
2. If so, NO DOUBT it WOULD cause some strange issues, .... and yes, quite possibly a 'rich thing', seeing as(what I think you were saying)>>> The CSI just wouldn't shut off.
3. It would also most definitely cause AIR, like I'd mentioned... and "jack it up, etc." all that? Yeah, ......... In fact, maybe some of the air worked it's way out as you were continuously trying to run it, turn it over, etc.... But not likely the latter part was too much of that dramatic "wont even POP" stuff. Sometimes it's just 'SEVERAL' things with these sensor riddled beasts! lol. They add up and cause one big 'NADA', lol.
4. I think it's mostly BAD GAS, ...but surely, you have some other lil ticks goin on that we WILL find and DESTROYYYYYYYYY! Wow, sorry,...had a flashback of one of my 20hrs straight on my rig with no results days! hahaha. Jk,

.... you're CLOSE, BUDDY! I THINK, once you get the hose cleared up/replaced, then get it running again when back home with a fresh gaggle of go-go juice in it, .... and then start to dig through things in an organized list, one by one, .... THIS THING WILL PURR! You went the right way with most everything, Jason, and even having cut a couple corners, .... I don't see any LASTING issues coming from any of that. The main worry, the timing chain thing, etc., ... well, that's all stuff you're putting to rest, right? So you're that much closer..... CAN'T WAIT till you're not having to wonder what you'll be tinkering with next time you come home.... Rather, you'll be pondering "How many trails can I hit with the FAM before I head out.... And heck, I think I'll start with the painting next trip!" lol.

 

Friggen phone. I also respect your input. Bottom line the hose needs changed.
On the temp gauge, you say the sensor for that is the one in the middle of the intake, pretty sure its hooked up but I will double check it, I'm using the sr5 cluster I got from you. Is there any way to test the gauge I wonder, will have to research that

 

Hmmm, ..... OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH, WAIT, .... remember what I told you when you took that? >>>>(seriously, I just remembered that cluster was from me! hahaha)>>>>>>>>

>>>>>>> "Jason, ....the cluster is really in great condition, but I swapped the thermometer gauge with mine, cuz it was giving me issues." DO NOT pull that sensor. I would bet you dollars to donuts it's the gauge in that cluster... NOT the gauge sensor itself. What you CAN do, I'm pretty sure, is use the gauge out of your non-sr5 cluster and put it in that one. In fact, I thought you were gonna do that. Oh well, WAY TOO MUCH CRAP TO REMEMBER a detail like that when we're so overwhelmed with, ..... LIFE! lol. I didn't remember that, either, hahaha.

BTW, did your temp gauge even work on the other cluster?

 

PS> As I was sayin, I THINK, .... "I kept my cluster cuz I wanted the Orig. Cluster and not to have to screw with the Odometer.... SOOOO, I switched the temp gauge and oil sender gauge into mine and mine into it. Pretty sure the Oil Pressure Gauge portion in mine was fine. It was just getting low because, well, .........MY MACHINIST WAS A KNOB RIDING DOUCHE! lol. OOps, sorry again,....another flashback! haha

 

OK mark we gotta stop having these miscomunications LOL. So you were having temp gauge issues with this gauge? And do I understand your oil pressure gauge meaning the current one in the cluster I got from you may be faulty? I ask becouse it only rises about a needle while running. That was on my long list of things to figure out LOL. And yep my temp gauge worked in my old cluster, so if I can swap it out that'll be great.