looks like everyone is giving you some things to check.

i just have a quick question:
how is all your tempature sensors?do they all look good?

the only reason i ask is because when the engine is cold the ecu gives it more fuel,
and their have been people who put a potentiometer in line with a certain temp sensor to increase the resistace to trick the evu to add more fuel.

but the running rich is a better chance of it eing something else

 

Yea twisted I got a lot of things to check when I get home just hope I didn't destroy any high $$ parts by not paying attention.

 

Hey Jason, .....

Out of curiosity, .....did you change out the fuel filter? I think you did. But, ...what about the pump? Easy check on that, and considering it sat for MONTHS, ....could it just be a 'bad fuel' and possibly 'riddle with rust in there' thing going on? Sure seems like from starting and seemingly running 'ok' for a bit, then just progressively downward spiral from there.... that COULD be some symptoms that would make sense if you have a gummed up tank or pump sock, etc.?

 

If it's bad fuel, you may also want to run Seafoam through the system to clean out some of the old crap.

If this is a terrible idea, someone else please chime in

 

Thanks again for the input mark. I did change the filter and bad fuel may be playing a role but I do have good pressure at least at the cold start injector, Im not sure how to check it properly but I can say there is pressure at that point while cranking, I pretty sure the not running at all is something I did, timing way off now, TPS or AFM damage, something I had my hands on anyway I say this becouse it started fine at first and only got worse the more I tried to make it better ya know adjust this and that till you have everything beyond there basic parameters. Keep the ideas coming tho becouse I may still be totally over looking what might be the simple answer.

Philbert I did add a can of seafoam fuel additive and injector cleaner, I love the stuff and use it in all my vehicles my only problem now is it may have loosened some varnish and gunk that otherwise would have stayed put. But I still think it was a good idea, and for anyone with an auto tranny the tranny conditioner has worked miracles for me.
Thanks guys for the input.

 

Hey Homie, I'm home, lol.

Hmmm, ...... still curious on whether some really stale fuel could have caused some of this....but sounds, like you said, more like a REALLY off timing/tps/afm or othewise-type issue.

Are you saying you did mess with the AFM like he suggested you could? I know some have with rewards, .....but most aren't so lucky(why I mentioned it before). I'm not so sure on the AFM one either, ...but the TPS, ....did you clean your Throttle Body with the TPS still attached? It's a common mistake that I only avoided by accident, ...then found out as much by accident while reading the 4crawler or something like that site.

How about pullin that V-cover, checkin the mark on the dizzy. It may take a few turns of the goodies to get the shiny link back in place...but that dizzy notch?>>> 2 TURNS of the crank, AT THE MOST, right?

I know you're on the road, ....so not much we can do till ya return, ya know?(Gotta have you right there, tinkering with this, and then "did it do that? or this?"...and "what is the timing?" and "etc., etc., etc."..... But I wouldn't worry so much about varnish and such breaking loose, Jason..... Varnish from what, btw? lol.... Not sure I get whatcha mean. I did have crap fly free from the tube after the filter and wind up in my #2 injector.... but it would've ran to Vermont from L.A. if I wanted....ya know? You got something MUCH more specific to timing/sensor failure related going on, I feel. We'll see, right?

Best wishes and drive safely, Jason.... ( mimicking/ Fist bump..... Explosion) hahahaa.

 

Just checking in on you. Hopefully you will be headed home soon. Have a safe trip.

 

WHERE YOU AT? lol...

Hope you're not BOILING in PHX!

 

hey guys, mark I agree with ya it being more than stale fuel causing my problems, the varnish deal I was kinda thinking outloud on that, I plan on pulling the V cover when I get home and starting over with the timeing, also trying to research how to pull the codes as I do have a CE light maybe that will lead me somwhere so Im not chaseing my tail, also plan to check the AFM and TP, I didnt do anything with AFM I dont really trust myself to test it let alone take it apart and try and adjust anything lol.
mark we are in AZ but we're hanging out on top of flag till a little later today trying to stay cool LOL.
terry thanks for droping by should be headed home the week after the fourth for a few days if all goes as planed.

Ok a little update, stop in albuquerqui last night and picked a few things up.

new to my v6 rotters

new to me v6 calipers

1.5 ball joint spacers and diff drop brackets and hardware

pair of procomp es9000 shocks
and a front diff with 4.88 gears that was two frigging heavy to unload just to take a pic. I know it seems realy out of place to buy parts like this with the issues Im having but I have been working on getting these picked up for a couple months and it finally worked out the guy was super pataint with me so I want ed to get him took care of.[thanks andy]. be awhile befor any of it gets installed but at least I have the parts and will be that much closer when the time comes.

 

Hey Buddy, NICE SCORE! Of course, .....didn't see the price, but I assume being the crude bidness MeAN you are, lol....

Far as the codes... DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING, including the TPS, until you retrieve that code. FIRST, note this; That code might be totally invalid! I KNOW, RIGHT? LOL... Reason being, you probably hooked up the battery, then maybe removed the AFM or TPS plug to test or something,...maybe even the AC plug, VSV plug,...and they would all store a code. However, it doesn't hurt to see what the code was. THEN>>>>>: REMOVE the ground for 30 minutes, come back, reattach, then try to start it again and see if you pull a code again. Kind of hard to get codes, at times, when the thing wont really start, let alone run. BUT, ...as I said, pull that code(easy-peasy, ....JUST look in the book and for your year, find out if it's a 7, 12, 14, whatever, and then you can think if you disconnected any while it was running.

Secondly, after you get the code it has now, .... pull the TPS plug off the TPS and try to start it up. It will, when doing this, just TRY TO start up in a pre-set open loop...... Usually idles higher, etc.(You will need it running to test for differences, obviously, but it's worth a try).... Just pull the codes, FIRST, because it 1. Doesn't need to be running to pull codes.... 2. when you pull the TPS connector with the key on/battery connected, it will most likely throw a 'misleading'code.

Be sure you install the spacers, correctly(meaning, drain valley DOWN, so H20 can run off the top of the Ball joint)..... I will help you if you want on how to Cut/where to start the cut for the spacers to fit into the upper arm.(Preferably use a 2.5" air cutting tool, ...my 4.5" was TOO BIG!) I know, this is down the road a lil bit, ...but why not mention it, eh? lol.

Can't wait to see you get back on it! OOHRAH!

 

mark just to make sure I understand are you say to erase the current codes and then start over again? that maks sense just trying to conferm.

Oh and I paid a little less than $300 for everything, that includes the diff not pictured I think it was fair.

 

HOLY COW THAT'S A GOOD DEAL, BUDDY!

NO, I'm not saying that, lol.

1. Check the codes
2. Clear the codes by pulling the ground for 30 min(or 15A fuse)...I just find the battery easier, lol.
3. Try to turn over again, then check to see if you're getting any codes... but first, before even #1, ....CHECK TO BE SURE that nothing is loose, hanging there, disconnected, backing out of the connectors(afm, tps, valve cover connectors, etc., etc.)
4. For the heck of it, even if it's not starting, ....after checking codes, rechecking, etc., ..... pull the TPS connector, ..... then try to start it.

PERSONALLY.... I just FEEL like it's something that gave up the ghost..... or secondly, it could be simply the dizzy being a couple teeth off. My buddy had his dizzy in 180* off, .....even then, IT TRIED to start... and with starter fluid, it would kick over a lil.... But NO WAY would it run.

Also, your son could check for codes, EASILY! Just have him open the Haynes to the "EMISSIONS" section... in the back of it, there's a list of the codes, per year, and how to check them. All you do is short out, I believe, E2 and TE1, something like that, in the diagnostic box(Unless you're 86, I think it's a LIL different, but even the haynes shows you how).... Then turn the key to ON, but not starting it, it will flash your number out, ...sometimes SEVERAL. For instance;

1. It might flash 3 times, then 11, then 14..... Obviously 3 different codes.
2. Normal is like 1 flash every 4.5 seconds or something like that

Like I said, EASY to test for, and he doesn't have to mess with anything......Plus it'll give him a sense of "I CAN DO THIS"! LOL. Up to you, ....and I can relate to, 'NO WAY, love him,...but I wanna be the only one to blame if something goes wrong!' lol..... Still, pretty easy man.

 

I've been running those same kind of pro-comps up until yesterday Jason, They're pretty good for light trails. Jumping the truck though...they don't do so well for that, lol. You'll love em though, I know I did!

 

PS> Have you pulled the dizzy since it WAS seemingly running ok? Meaning, "did you try to move the gear to a diff location?" IOW, ......is it possible that you made it worse by trying to make it better?(ONLY speaking of the dizzy).

 

ok I get it mark the one thing I will have to figure out is where the diag port is at the book says near the coil but unless its one of the round white plugs I could find anything before I left. another thing on timing would that cause a run rich condition I dont think so but not sure I wish I woulda snaped some pics of my plugs before I left I couldnt beleive how black the were after such a short period of running.

Thanks moze these shocks are used but I think they still have some good left in them, glad to hear you liked them nice posative feed back.

 

yes manrk I have pulled the dizzy trying to make it better and Im sure in doing so only made the problem worse. thats why I think I need to pull the V cover and just star over with the timing ya know.

 

HECK YES it can make it rich, lean. Other things can as well, however.

Remember, ...when you have the dizzy even one tooth off(not sure you even do though, ya know? lol)....but if you do, ...it's firing WAY ahead of or before the spark....so, in essence, your plugs are getting LATHERED in fuel, instead of FIRING the fuel that's being combusted, ya know? BUT, nonetheless, they are STILL SPARKING OFF, ....so they will just carbonize the fuel that's soaked all over them.

 

YOU DO need to do that. It's the ONLY way to be absolutely certain, ya know? BTW, ....it's cake, and the more you do it now, the better. Just don't forget to hit the corners of the half moons with some sealant and the underside of the half moon as well when it goes back on, k? After 2 to 3 times of doing it, you'll have it off in 10 minutes with MINIMAL things disconnected(making it easier to re-connect).... Don't forget as well to not let the breather and pcv clips fall in anywhere..... I just pull them off and reinstall them when it's time.

 

PS> You're gonna have to do it a couple times for the valve lash, anyway.....getting some practice, that's all, right?

Trust me, when you pull it off, IF IT'S OFF A FEW OR EVEN ONE TOOTH, ...you'll be so relieved, right?????? And also, ..... even if that doesn't solve all your issues... you'll FIND IT, JASON, ya know? It can only be so many things....and after I, myself, have tested every sensor and component on these things, .....it's not so cumbersome any more, ya know? Plus, you have lots of us who've learned by trial and err, ..... so you don't have to, ..... SO ASK, k? lol.

PSS> YES, ...I believe the 87 and up has the port like mine by the battery.... yours is by the Coil, and the book tells you which one it is and how to connect in it. It can only be done one way, if he just follows instructions.... CAKE! I KNOW there are threads on that, too, Jason.... I've seen them. Brandon helped me help a guy figure out something one time.... can't remember if I saved or scribed it,...bit I'll check. I think it's yellow and white with 5 prongs in it or 3? See? Can't remember, lol. I'll look in my haynes if you don't, mister! lol

 

my plan when I get home is to check those codes and then start with the timing and just work my way up and out from there making sure everything is right, try and test things as I go along and see what I find.