Glad to hear you got it running but sorry it's giving you some problems. When I first fired mine it ran like crap too. Turned out to be missing due to the injector splices and connectors. It sucked to pull the upper intake back off but was worth it, I used to have a good vaccum diagram, I'll see if I can find it again.

 

Thanks for the comments guys, don't take what I said wrong I am totally happy with my progress I just hate to walk away from something with out being able to say yep that's the problem, ya know. I should have spent the $ to have the injectors checked out, I'm pretty sure they are part of the problem as well I should have done a better job cleaning the egr and throttle body etc. Like I said in an earlier post I got in a hurry and missed something or many things LOL. So pleas keep the ideas coming it will be awhile before I can try anything but atleast I'll have a game plan. Again thanks for all the help guys.

 

Man, Jason, .... I'm sorry you had to bug out before being able to put your mysteries to rest. I'm heading out for a couple hours, then I'll be back and try to stop in with some info. Sometimes, people actually reverse the #1 and #2 injector wires. But, sounds like yours is running to well AT TIMES for that. The dizzy thing could be an issue, as it will run really chunky and want to stall if it's off.(As will the chain being off a tooth....but we wont go there right now, lol).

I'll be back, homie... again, sorry to hear, I know it's frustrating, ...BOY DO I KNOW! lol.

 

Thanks mark any help would be great. I am positive the chain is right the dizzy I'm positive is off atleast a little. There are just so many freaking variables ya know. And it seems like no matter what I try it doesn't seem to change anything. I talked to the local yota guru today and said he would lay money on it being the AFM/MAF sensor, even showed me how to take it apart and tweak it some he added this is Not recommended but might be worth a shot he said that was the problem before I finished explaining what it was and wasn't doing, just not sure I wanna take a chance of messing up something that I'm not sure is bad and I darn sure don't have the extra$$$ to buy a new one just to try.

 

Jason - does it idle without having to give it gas, and does it die when you don't touch the throttle?

If so, I had this issue when I did my timing chain job....turned out that I had missed a tooth when putting the dizzy back inot the head, so the timing was WAY off and it would just start, run rough briefly, then sputter and die. There is a small notch on the dizzy gear, which you line up to be JUST BEFORE the edge of the cam drive gear.

 

Thanks philbert it acts like that sometimes but it will Rev sometimes the freaking thing is all over the place in how it acts Not trying to be a pain that way just really doesn't act the same way twice ya know, its back to Not wanting to start as of when I left, the last few times it did start I had to crack the throttle a bit and crank for a very long time my plugs are black, compretion is about 160 across the cylinders fuel at the rail seems to have good pressure, pulled plugs wires while running didn't notice a difference, sprayed Carb cleaner again no difference, checked double checked and just to safe checked again all electrical connections I could think of, I am Just totally at a loss. I appreciate all the advice so far thanks guys and please keep it coming.

 

Diagnosing problems isn't one of my strongest suits. I always end up just running every test I know starting with the easiest, and then continuing from there. But some brainstorming nonetheless: I'd make sure the truck is actually running rich consistantly before playing with the maf. I'd definitely double check the timing, and make sure the oxygen sensor is working properly. The ecu tweaks things depending on how rich/lean the oxygen sensor says the engine is running, and if the sensor isn't working quite right, that can cause issues because it's lying to the ecu. Tweaking the tensioner for the air flap is actually lying to the ecu as well, and I'd want to make sure that the engine running rich isn't just a symptom for something else before adjusting things in the MAF. It might seem like it's solved the problem if you do it, but it could just be a band aid for something else that could be properly fixed. I'd worry less about the possibility that you didn't clean the egr/throttle body or inspect the injectors. It's less likely the symptoms were caused by something you didn't change, and more likely caused by something you did change if you follow my logic. I'm probably not being much help, just as I said, a bit of brainstorming. Best of luck Jason, I hope you're better at troubleshooting than I am.

 

Dutch I agree with everything you said and I'm trying to do as much research as I can on how to test things before I just start twisting this or that ya know, the running rich thing it was doing before the rebuild but no where near as bad as now, I have a feeling its a combination of things causing the problems and Im just not sure where to start, getting the time dead on would be the best place I guess but from there its kinda up in the air I'll get it just might take awhile.

 

I dont think this is your problem, but thought it would might be something interesting. You were talking about your alternator not being properly plugged in. If you can get your shop dark. Look under the hood with the engine idling and look for blue sparks. You would be surprised sometimes. Then try reving it up also. Can help locate faulty plug wires or shorts. It can also show exhaust leaks. I do this on a dark country road every now and then just to make sure everything is alright. Make sure you got good ventilation. An old timer taught me that trick.

Were you getting any Check Engine Lights? When you get back and get a chance we can go through your vacuum lines. If it is draining your battery that fast and it is new may need to look at the alternator. Some parts stores check them for free but I have been told not to hold a lot of confidence in their test.

It cant be to much. If you are worried about an injector, just check for it like you would for a misfire on a plug. Pull one at a time, when no changes occur, then check to make sure it is getting fire. If it is getting fire, chances are it is an injector.

If you are suspecting an injector, Im betting it is number 1 as it is the most exposed and chances are you tried getting to your fuel filter or tightening other things from the front of the manifold and may have bumped it. I dont like the way Toyota made those injector connections.

I know I PMd you this but was putting it up so as it may help others. Im sure others have some easy checks. I havent ever tested the Throttle Position Sensor and havent looked it up. It might be an easy test.

 

Kinda a selfish request here Jason: Can you put a link to your build thread in your signature? I like to check in during breaks at work on my cell phone, but for some reason I can't seem to find your thread because my phone gets very limited internet interface. If you don't mind, that is. Cheers!

 

thanks for the input terry at this point Im willing to try anything LOL, I have done the looking at things in the dark trick myself many times. I was doing a lot of research last night and found some really good test procedures on marlins site, how to test the AFM and the TPS pretty much a matter of checking ohms at differant positions through the sweep of the part being tested.

 

dutch I would be more than happy to do that for you if you can explain how to do it I am so computer stupid I still struggle to post pics lol. seriosly.

 

I'm not as savvy as some of these other guys either so all I did was go to the first page of my build thread, copy the web address at the top of my browser and then go paste it in my signature. There are ways to set up a link where you can make it say things like you see in Chef's signature, for example, without it just being a boring address, but it takes some scripting and I haven't taken the time to figure that out yet, so I just went with my simple way.

 

I think I got it , now if fixing my runner was that easy

 

Dutch - it's really easy to do that

Here:
1) Copy the URL (you already know how to do that!)
2) Go back to "edit your signature" where there's the white box with your signature's text (including the long-ass link you currently have there...)
3) Delete the current long link, and type in something like "My BUILD Thread". Make it bold if you want, or all caps....whatever you want.
4) Now, HIGHLIGHT the text of your "build thread" callout (just like you'd highlight something in Word, or in any document, using your mouse to double click/drag.
5) with the text highlighted, now clikc on the little "earth" symbol in the formatting box that appears above your editing box (to the right of the "bold, italic, justification, bullets" formatting menus - right in the middle of all the formatting stuff really.
6) As soon as you click on the "earth" icon, a small box will pop up, prompting you to paste in your desired URL, or "Hyperlink". Do that. Hit "OK". Save. You're done!

Hope that helps....now lets' clean up that signature!

Phil

 

Hey buddy!

Sorry I've not been slapping stuff down here, ....just been really busy having FUN! lol.....

Anyway, I'll spend some time updating my thread on that stuff, later, ...for now.........

In case I missed you solving your problem, I'm sorry for the rambling I'm about to do, lol...

1. I doubt that, if you'd had it running ok, previously, just powerless do to HG or compression or whatever it was.... that it is the AFM.

2. My first question would be this; Did you remove the TPS when removing the TB for cleaning? Second question within that question; Did you clean the TB with the TPS on? The second is a big no-no, as those solvents can get in there and wreak havoc.

3. If you did remove the TPS, I'm sure you know you had to adjust it....but even after doing it twice, I had missed the initial points/tips on the 4crawler tps cheap tricks page. When getting the first test right, the rest of it seemed to line up very close...and I ALWAYS, after the first attemps, removed the Throttle Body to adjust the TPS from that point on.

4. I would really test the AFM thoroughly, first, and if even when pushing the door open slowly and gradually, you seem to get a jump over a thousand ohm.... you probably are ok on that as long as the rest of them check out..... Reason being, that test doesn't pertain to idle, really.

5. Regarding the Dizzy..... ; I'm sure you probably don't want to hear it, but you need to pull the V-cover, get it dead on TDC on Compression stroke(be sure the rotor is on #1 or near there....as it might be off, lol), check the valves 1-I, 2-I, 1-E, 3-E to be doubly sure you're on TDC-Comp..... and then pull the dizzy. Once pulled, line up the dizzy mounting bolt as close as possible with the head/threaded hole, then push the dizzy in to the point it's just about to touch, gear/gear..... Then make SURE that the rotor is pointing at PRECISELY 12'O'CLOCK, ..... then slide it in, and watch the rotor drop counterclockwise back to #1 plug wire location(10'o'clock on the dial). Once in, shine a flashlight into the gears, and look for the lil dimple in the gear on the actual dizzy.....it should be free from the cam/dizzy drive gear, but JUST BARELY to the left(counterclockwise). Once you're there, you FOR SURE are right on the money

6. I would bet dollars to donuts that's where you are off....The Dizzy Installation.

************************************************** *********

Far as pulling the cover, here's what I do to make it easy(5 minutes, max);

Have electric tape ready;

1. Pull the power steering hoses off the steering pump, lay them back over and tuck them in out of the way near the plenum
2. Pull the AC vacuum and connector off and tuck it back as well, leaving the AC valve attached to the Valve cover.
3. Unbolt the EGR Modulator and VSV from the Valve Cover and tape the bolts to them or put them back in the Valve cover so you don't lose em, then pull them back toward the plenum as well.
4. Pull the PCV and Breather tubes from the valve cover and tuck them back toward the plenum somewhere.
5. Pull the dizzy cap with wires still attached and if you have a loom harness on top, pull that back and tape the lil bolts to the wire harness housing and leaving the wires on the plugs, lay it back out the way.
6. Now unbolt that sucker and take a look at where the notch in the dizzy gear is.

PS> You could trust me when I tell you, ...... If you are positive you're on TDC-Comp. stroke, then YOU CAN JUST pull the dizzy out, put the rotor to 12 oclock on the dot and then slide it down in again.... it WILL ALMOST ALWAYS fall right where it's supposed to. Might be worth a try before you pull the v-cover.

Wishin you the best, buddy, and hoping you're having safe travels!

 

PS> As my brother just said, "YOU SURE the firing order is right?" Sorry if I missed that, and I KNOW you're a pretty darn good mechanic-DIY'r.... just can't hurt, right? I think I saw it mentioned, but just to be sure.

 

It certainly did help, Phil. Really appreciate the heads-up, all this time I thought you guys actually knew the scripting to do that, didn't know there was an integrated tool for it. Lol I was actually trying to piece my way through the source code to figure out the commands you guys were using to do it. I like my signature better already. Cheers!

 

mark thanks for all the info, no You didn't miss anything except that now it wont start at all. I will be digging into things much deeper when I get back home, the main reason the local guru was pointing toward the AFM was becouse and I may not have mentioned it here I don't remember but it was running rich before the rebuild nothing like now but rich ya know, he also said leaving one sit is not good for them, that said I'm not defending him Just passing along what he said. As far as the TPS I did not remove it so I may well have damaged it ugh. The timing I think I had closer to right when I started than I do now so pulling the cover and starting from scratch is in my future I'm sure, firing order I checked first thing I made a very costly mistake before assuming I had that right and didn't very embarrassing ordeal. I wish I would have found the cheap cheat page before I had to leave now I'm gonna stew about this till we get back home. The worst of it the wife is mad and rightfully so I kinda messed up her plans with my "just give me a few more minutes " I should have just steeped away and let you guys give me some advice. Thanks again mark and tell your bro thanks I need all the help I can get LOL.

 

thanks philbert as soon as I'm working with more than my phone I will try that, not making any promises LOL.