Oh, I hear ya, Dutch

See, my springs weren't TOTALLY flat.. But BOY, you hit a bump to hard with a 100# girl in the bed, ....'KERPLUNK', LOL. I think "They work together" is something I'd totally agree with. Just saying, ...I wouldn't likely run just coils back there, ya know? I know, the newer ones did away with the pack... but I'm not sure I'm a fan, and I don't think they have any better longevity, nor flex, right?

Far as a 'NEW CUSTOM LEAF PACK", or even one custom made like Twisted said, .... that would be obviously optimal. BUT, since you're watching the CABBAGE WILTAGE, haha... then maybe the Zuk Mod would just get you good to go for a while, while you work on getting EXACTLY what you want. I even said in my Zuk thread, many times, >>> "This MIGHT NOT be my final product for any LONGGGGG period. I might end up with a new leaf pack some day, etc... But for now, I'm very happy with how they perform, for me".

Just a thought, ...... all you're doing to install Zuks springs is cutting the very bottom of the bump stop tower off, ....heating up and bending it out, ..then inserting the spring into the upper stop tower, then prying it up over the rubber stop......... you could even weld back on the bottom of the tower, later on, when you get the spring thing worked out. This way, you could FOCUS ON THE #1 PRIORITY, ...getting that wench running! ....getting it driveable!... and HAVING FUN IN IT! ....hahaha, ....HECK, MAYBE EVEN BY THE END OF THE SUMMER!(Hopefully sooner, I know...but I also know how hard it can be to FIND TIME! lol)

As I say to most everyone.... "YOU DO WHAT YOU WANT, and most importantly, what you think would be most practical for you and your applications. If you want a 500$ header, go for it... Just read up first for me, ok? If you want a cold air intake, SLAP ONE IN! ... just do some research on that, as well, and ask around to the ACTUAL BUILDERS and machinists, ..."what you think of these things?".... Etc. .... and then I WILL BE VERY HAPPY FOR YA, whatever you decide, ....cuz it's YOUR RIG, and YOU GOTTA LIVE WITH IT! hahaha.

Wishin you the best, Jason!

 

Mark I agree with You 100% on the zuk mod that said I'm not dissing anyone else's opinion or ideas there is a reason all the options are popular, becouse they work. 2 things I like about the z mod are price and the ability to change easily to something else. If I do it it will be a temp thing no different if I add a leaf or so to the pack I have, I'm leaning towards these two options because of $$$, I know everybody is in the same boat. Like I said before I'm just thinking ahead because I would like to drive my truck some time soon, but I also don't want to feel like it has sat for almost 5 years for nothing I really want to feel like I have made progress, and I'm getting there. And I promise you that I don't spend $ with out research first, you should know I question you and others on this site to death I'm waiting for you guys to scream at my JUST DO SOMTHING, and stop annoying me LOL. Like you said about yourself I can only afford to spend big money once so I gotta try and spend it wisely . Hope everybody has a great weekend I'm on the road

 

Had to update my favorite links. You got another page. Not going to holler "Just do something" that doing something gets expensive. There has to a be fix that meets all the requirements out there somewhere.

Was checking out Twisteds thread and seen you were leaving Az shortly. Im in the same boat as you, got to work. At least we got jobs. Be careful if you are on the road tonite. During summers and Fridays and Saturdays I usually find one self impaired driver out there. I work grave yard and on the roads at prime time. Im sure you see it all of the time.

Hope your trip goes quick and safe.

 

Thanks for stopping by Terry, going to be on the road till about the middle of June with only minimal home time but I will have plenty to do when I get there Tue Im ordering parts and picking up what I can if I get by home.
The list
Clutch kit
Master and slave cylinders
electric fan controller
exhaust manifold studs
Injector o rings
A few feet of vacuum hose
short hoses for water pipes
Battery
Alt
Front fenders, from a different place the first pair I ordered were on back order for 6 weeks I finally canceled the order
Oil and filter
Magna flow muffler.
I think I have everything else to get it running but if you guys think of any odds and ends I might have missed please throw it out there I really want to make my next home time count and if at all possible post a vroom vroom vid. Hope you all are having a great weekend and let's Not forget those that sacrificed it all so we can have what we have.

 

do you have little things like:
oil
oil filter
coolant
fuel
fuel filter
air filter
thermostate.

as far as any thing else i forget how far you engine is together.

the only thing else since you are doing injector o-rings would be upper intake gasket and throttle body gasket.

on the vaccum hose i would suggest getting around 3ft

 

Get extra oil and filters(toyota has them on sale for 4$ near me ) You're breaking a motor in, right? 20 minutes, .... change oil, ... 500 miles, ...change oil..... so maybe use some "whatever's on sale" filters for the break in, ..then slap a Toyota one in there for the first 2000 mile period after the 500 and 20 min periods! lol.

Good gas resistant sealant for the intake to head gasket?

Dual stage Thermostat?

Good cam break in lube....(Crane makes one, many out there)

Possibly Zinc Additive for initial break in?(not necessary, many say, if you use detergent oil for break in)

Prime Oil pump...

New Fuel Filter(Toyota).....

New PCV(Toyota)....

Replace the PCV and Breather hoses if they're hard as rocks....

If you're IACV vacuum hoses are hard as rocks and slide around on the IACV ports, front and back, ... might wanna order them as well(Toyota has them for sure, .... not sure on the exact mold from other stores// They are different size diameters on each end, tapered, etc.)

Seal the bottom of the half moons and corners of half moons on top(where the head meets the half moon)..........

Don't forget to prep the rear and front main seals(oil them well before inserting on crank and harmonic balancer)........

Check Valve Lash........(Whatever that is for the LCE CAM, plus have break in RPM schedule for the 20-30 minute break in, printed, ready to follow when firing up).......

THOROUGHLY flush out the fuel lines AFTER THE FILTER(as well as the fuel rail itself...C'mon, ask me how I know...hahaha.. I had to tear down my intake right after first fire up, because something broke free and flew right into injector #2!... Trust me, FLUSH THEM GOOD!)...

Plenty of Break Fluid for the Clutch Master and Slave replacement/bleeding/flushing of lines....

Put the Clutch Prep Grease(lil packet they give you) in a safe place(don't step on it, ....like I did, hahaha)...

Collector Gaskets.....

O-Ring for Wrap Around Pipe that inserts into the center/bottom of intake....(Toyota)....

Dizzy O-ring and Dizzy Cap to surface seal....(maybe Napa? Definitely Toyota).....

Hit the mating surfaces very well where the oil pan and block 'corners' are, in the oil pan bolt holes(dab'l'do).... This can take a decent amount of Sealer, along with the teeeny bit for the timing cover and half moons, etc.....

Hit the corners where the timing cover, head and block meet, below/next to HG....

DO NOT GO PAST 12# ON THE TENSIONER, EVEN A POUND!.....

Make sure the Top/Center Oil Pump mounting bolt does not protrude even ONE 100DTH OF AN INCH!.... lol........The bolt, if protruding at ALL, will push on the tensioner and stop it from retracting as designed....(Both of the last two from Engnbldr, ....and pretty common knowledge, I suppose, lol)....

Make sure you put GOOD Oil Resistant Sealant on that same Oil Pump Mounting bolt, top/center.....

Read up on the torque values(3 different ones for the oil pump mounting bolts, ...2 @ 18#, 2 @ 14# and 1 @ 9#).....

Follow 4Crawlers Timing cover bolt length guide, and then torque the 10MM TW bolts to 29# and 8MM TW bolts to 9#......

Have your AC Mounting Bracket and all it's bolts(into the block, as you'll have the ones for the timing cover in a template)...... ready to go when it's time to install the timing cover..... And you will need the top, alternator pivot bracket ready as well as it goes in the top right corner of the timing cover. (You can install the bolt w/out it for install of cover, ...but BE SURE to put washers that equal the depth of the bracket if you do so).....

Have someone helping you push back on the heater hoses in back when you install the Valve Cover......

Install the Head Block Plate to Chassis Ground into the Block plate bolt before you install the head(it's a bit of a PITA to reach).... You will also need one loosened on the head block plate in the back for the wrap around water pipe that hangs on it....

Install the Starter, oil pressure sending unit, knock sensor and fuel filter(wrap around water pipe is tight behind it on some?).... and oil filter, before installing the intake..... and once you install intake, don't forget to install the wrap around water pipe into the bottom/center of the intake.....

Install some of the coolant hoses on the bottom of the intake, the round/weird one that wraps the thermostat housing, the IACV coolant hoses, IACV Vacuum hoses, BEFORE you install those components(Obviously, some of them have to wait and you can't install both ends before installing components....but just hash it out with the book and in your head, ...you'll see what I mean)..... Ask Jerry(92Toy) how difficult it is to reach some of those once the intake, throttle body and IACV are installed, lol...... Heck, as me!!! lol....

************************************************** *********

Dozen other tricks and things to remember, but I'm BUSHED, ...gotta hit the sack, soon! Thought I'd throw out what came to mind as it was coming to me, lol.

 

thanks for the input twisted all that is on my parts store list except the fuel filter forgot all about it so thanks.
Mark I would be bushed after reciting the "chefs readers digest checklist to initial startup of a Toyota 22re" to thanks for ALL your input buddy and I glad you typed all that out there's no frigging way I would remember all of it.

 

I was about to make a joke about how chef managed to condense a multitude of pages into one post on your thread but it wasn't half as clever as referring it to a reader's digest checklist, so now I have nothing interesting to add.

So... Yeah... Hi!

 

Hahahaha...... Hey, I'm just trying to help. lol.

 

I didnt see it mentioned, but the O2 sensor should be easier to get to with everything out of the way. It isnt a must, but these never get changed. I have had them so rusted in the exhaust pipe, that I have just had a new bug welded in. I get mine from sparkplugs.com

With what you got ordered and going to get will be a small fortune just to get it going. You will be surprised at how easy these start up. How old is the gas in the tank? If it is very old, you can drop your skid plate and there is a drain bolt in the tank.

Chef did a really good job on the list, the hoses can be pain after you get it all together and then have to take apart the plenum to get them hooked back up. It not bad having to take it apart again, just frustrating. I can have the plenum off in about 10 minutes, but I have done it several times, but for your first time, it could take you awhile longer. Just try to get them as you assemble.

Some fuel injectors have a wire clip the holds the connector to the injector and others have a white clip with a plastic tab. I think your will be the wire clip. If so just be careful with those and make sure it is seated well. The wire on the bottom side can slip off making you think it is on right, but not making the best connection.

Looking forward to seeing you getting this going. This being the first one you worked on can be nerve racking, but I can say after the first time, you will realize what a great, simple little engine it is.

 

And I wouldn't look to anyone else for a more detailed list,
Thanks again for all your help.

 

Thanks Terry yeah the parts list just keeps growing but I don't want to have to do things over and if that's what it takes that's what I am going to try and do. I am going to try to get the No sensor changed. As far as gas in the tank well my worthless son in law took care of that long before I pulled the engine, but you mentioning that, it wouldn't start the day I put in the shop, I hope he didn't steal more than the gas and me nor notice and have to chase that down to get it running.

 

Clutch ordered most everything picked up at parts store, no time to get anything done but it wont take much now.

 

Yeahhhhhhhhhhh, boooooooooooooooy~! lol.

 

Heh I'm pretty stoked for you after reading the list of parts you have on the way. Can't wait to see pics of this burst of progress you're about to go through.

 

yippie parts

 

YES! And, ...also, .... BE CAREFUL with those suckers! Aside from backing out(pins/connectors) the back..... the portion right in front of the metal clip? HOLY CRAPOLI, Jason,..it's SO thin and VERY brittle after 25 years of heat/cold/dry/humid, lol. I broke the edge on one and had to crazy glue it back on before I could get the 'clip' to go on and stay secure....and trust me, YOU NEED THOSE CLIPS, ALL OF THEM, secure.

 

PS> This is the guy I was talking about, JBM(Jimmie Bowers, I believe).... who has a thread on here, a store on Ebay, .... was quick for me and good return policy, etc.>>>>

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f37/...u-need-162603/

Just go to his Ebay page, and you can basically see ANYTHING in his store(Yard, whatever, lol)... i KNOW THERE ARE OTHERS, lol... just sharing that one we were talking about.

 

Saw this too, .... never know, right? lol.........

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant...408248093.html

 

Thanks guys it will be couple weeks before any new parts get used but I'm really looking forward to getting back home and getting started, thanks for the links mark I will get them checked out.