Awarness, I forgot to ask: how many km before the vibs went almost completely away?

 

Come out! Info is in the events forum under central meet n greet!

 

Yeah, I'm planning to. I've been spreading the word as well -- a few guys from work might come. The '94 should be able to make to Hurontario without losing too many various fluids.

 

Sounds good mike, alex started the site a few years ago and been growing since then.

 

Not very many, I work less than 10km from where I live so I typically don't put a lot of mileage on my truck (~40k km's in 5 years). I'd say it was less than 1500km before the vibration had been noticeably reduced.

Not far off what a friend had told me about the rear leafs settling, he'd said it'd take 500-1000kms for them to settle. The majority of those kms were street too with just a few days of light wheeling.

 

Hey, for some reason today the vibs seem to have been reduced a small bit. Hard to tell if it's just in my head or the parts are just wearing in (meaning the u-joint and slip yoke are getting used to the different operating angles) or the new springs are settling. I'm still considering angle-shimming the rear springs. What degree shims did you have installed? Was the rear joint at zero degrees afterwards?

 

The OME Dakar rear leafs were listed as giving 2-3" of lift in the rear, a 2.5 degree shim was installed shortly after the suspension overhaul to try and correct the vibrations. It was also suggested that replacing my two-piece driveline with a single piece might help as well as replacing my fairly worn tires, neither of which I done at this point.

 

It's usually the other way around -- a two-piece driveshaft replacing a one-piece to lessen vibration. I've got more than 2" (even though these springs are listed at around 1.5") of lift and, from very precise eye-balling, it looks as though in may need three or four degree shims. I might even make them myself. I'll keep you posted of how it turns out.

 

I measured the relative anglular difference between the pinion flange and the driveshaft angle with an angle finder last night and things are 7 degrees out (about 8 degrees out before the 16 mm centre bearing drop) so it would suggest 2.5 degree shims wouldn't do enough to bring things back around to 0.

In my case and as you said, the vibes are almost going away but I want them gone for good.

 

Hrm, is it common to use shims up to 8 degrees or more? The 2.5's were put in as per the judgment of BCC on mine, would there be another reason they wouldn't have chosen a higher angle?

 

Well, 4Crawler has offered shims from 1-12 degrees but (going from what the website says) but just because the driveshaft is 8 degrees out from zero doesn't mean 8-degree shims are necessary -- maybe 5 or 6 degrees to leave a little there. Last thing one needs is to be loaded down and the vibs return. If I have a chance this long weekend I'll try to measure my Tundra's relative angle and see what's there, bone-stock, no load, just to see where it's at.

Still sticking in my mind is that the u-joint needle bearings and crosses become a bit oval at one predominant angle over time and take a while to burn into a new operating angle but I haven't read or heard anything concrete about that.

 

Just found this thread guys... If you want suspension work try Birchmount Spring at Birchmoiunt and Danforth rd. Really good people... they did a custom rear leaf set for me with added leaves for load... truck rides just over stock height and just a little stiffer...
great warranty support... I was carrying so much weight I blew out two of them on our wonderfully well maintained roads and they re did the job again... twice... no breaks since...

I'd like to get out to a Sontt meet but I work weekends... so no play for me...

there are a few RHD surfs in town... one up around weston/7 and another in Leslieville I see all the time...

 

East Spring fixed the old springs a few times but they didn't fix them evenly. And they rode like crap. I haven't had as much luck with a few spring shops around Toronto. A second shop said they'd just add leaves as usual, another said it'd be better to just replace the springs, another said nevermind that, add-a-leaves are fine. None were open on the weekend (when I don't work), so I just gave up.

Really happy with these Ironman springs. They give a firm, controlled ride without the bouncing around. Everything's brand new for around $450 and they bolt right it.

 

You've sold me, I think. I like that they aren't as much lift as the OME's, and the good reviews on the ride quality are encouraging. Thanks for the thread!

 

Sorry to hear you had issues mike...fwiw Birchmount is open Sat. am. ... they do a lot of CanPost/city/hydro trucks as well...

 

Good to know, I'll keep that in mind. Getting the springs even side to side was a big issue I've had when having springs repaired -- yeah, okay, it's fixed, but one side's lower now. WTF? But given the price of these Ironman springs, if one ever gives out, it'd be nearly as cost-effective to just put a new one in. I made sure there's lots of grease/anti-seize on everything so it should come apart easily next time.

 

Be sure to get the bushing kit and two sets of U-bolts (part of the $450 price). I was shocked at the good quality -- like original equipment. One thing I wished was that the bushing kit included two more steel bushing sleeves. The kit comes with two, intended for the front spring perches. However, I used those sleeves for the rear shackle ends as the lower shackle pins are now just 14 mm bolts. The original lower 18 mm pressed-in shackle pins are long gone because I had to grind them out years ago. I had to re-use the worn-out steel sleeves from the old springs for the front perches.

If I had 220-lbs. worth of fibreglass cap, tools and recovery gear, I think the total lift would be right in-line with Ironman's listed lift height (an inch or so less). Hey, you're welcome and good luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

The ebay Aisin hubs are in. They were really dirty, but mechanically sound and cleaned up well with some elbow and wheel bearing grease. I've said this before; I have no clue why I didn't do this years ago.

[IMG][/IMG]

 

You'll love them I picked up maybe 2mpg since the switch and the turning radius is tighter too... [unlocked]

 

I'm not sure if it was all in my head but today the truck did seem more light on its feet than previously. But this was just going around town. I'm sure if I did a long highway drive the difference would be much more noticeable in highway acceleration and L/100 km. Now for sure the front CV shafts and diff spider gears aren't spinning for absolutely zero purpose in 2WD.