Okay, so now the bad news -- I'm getting a horrible vibration right from 0 km/h to 40 km/h (0-25 mph) and it goes away after that. My guess is the lift flushed out a bad rear u-joint (zero vibration prior to spring install).

 

Looks good, man!

Now about that rust...

 

...fender flares. Probably Bushwackers -- I was interested in the Jungle flares but they're shiney.

Oh and thanks! Many nights in the garage.

 

jungle fender flairs are the same ones that are on my hilux surf stock..



im from niagara... love to see toyota getting saved!

i got a new top for my suzuki from national, also if you need trailgear they are a dealer...
i really like these leafs.. are you going to go to 33s?? and yeah the u joint sounds bad.. they arent too bad of a job.

 

I can ask my bud if he still has his bushwackers, would prob get rid of them cheap if you're interested (one friend has a used set, one a new, LOL).

Greg

 

Hey, nice Surf. I see a few right-hand-drive FJ60s/80s and some Montaros (and those micro Suzukis/Subarus) around Toronto but have yet to see a Surf.

At this point, it seems 33s are the only way to go. And I don't even have the front ball-joint spacers/diff drop/eBay Aisan hubs in yet.

All the driveshaft joints in this truck are original (every zerk greased min. twice a year) except for the rearmost cross at the diff -- I changed it about seven years ago with an aftermarket one and I remember it was extra tight. I wire brushed the bores prior to installing it yet it was still tight. Plus, it's been difficult to grease because the zerk was in a different position. I ordered a new O.E. cross from a dealer today so we'll see if that does anythng. If not, at least it's one varible out of the equation.

 

Hey Greg, sure. Are they the Extend-a-Fenders or Cut-Outs? The Cut-Outs I think would be freakishly wide, even with 33x12.5s. If I were to run 33" Boggers, Cut-Outs would be the choice.

 

These ones


Asked him, they are sold (the used ones) but my buddy still has a new set.

 

scribed

 

Greg, good looking truck. Even better looking garage, wow.

So, just to confirm, those are the Extend-a-Fenders, still new from the box?

 

I'm still getting a vibration from the rear driveshaft from 0-40 km/h (0-25 mph) and it's really irritating me. I lowered the support bearing about 5/8" with some washers and that did help small a bit -- but the vibration is still there. I spent last evening inspecting and inspecting and couldn't find anything obvious. I did buy a new rear u-joint from a dealer ($100!) to replace the aftermarket one I put in seven years ago at the pinion flange end but when I took out the assembly, the joint had zero binding, zero play and pivoted freely. So I reinstalled the joint. The slip yoke has zero play, is clean and slides freely. There's zero play radially and thrust wise at the pinion flange. The centre support bearing has always had about 3/4" up and down play since I can remember and still makes no noise. There's zero play or noise coming from the double u-joint. There's zero play from the u-joint at the transfer case flange. There's a tiny bit of play at the transfer case flange but there was zero vibration before installing these springs.

So I'm concerned about the joint phasing. I stupidly took both old springs out at once and the axle accidentially rolled forward and the slip joint pulled apart. I put it back together with all the zerks in-line and it looks in phase. I tired to get a rifle sight while under there last night and it's hard to tell. It looks lined up, but I need to be convinced. I put a straight edge long enough to hit all the rear zerk fittings and it looks straight. The last thing I want to do is just start throwing money at this blindly. The next step is to pull the rear yoke/slip joint back apart and clock it forward and back to verify it's in phase.

It can't be the lift -- 2.5" max, or at times in this case 3" -- thousands lift their Yotas that and beyond. And it's a two-piece shaft with a double u-joint in the centre. I've had NWOR springs that lifted it in the rear (about 1.5-2" before) and zero vibration. In fact, I drove around for thousands of kilometres with a wasted rear joint (the one I replaced seven years ago -- because the grease ports were plugged so two ends got no grease) and had NO idea it was wasted (zero vibration).

This shaft has had minimum two greasings a year done by me for 16 years. I don't get it. It has no dents or obvious damage. I'll figure it out. I just would like to be able to enjoy my old truck.

 

I had a vibration, not sure If its the same, but I had to lengthen my shaft after the Trans swap a/t to m/t and adapted a gear driven t-case from a 4-cyl. This made my existing shaft an 1" short. I got a new shaft the correct length and the bib went away.

 

Also, did you mark you drive shaft where it meets the flange before you disconnected it? The fsm says to mark all connection points so reassembly is identical or you could get vibrations.

 

The ones on that big truck sold. My buddy that has his are the jungle flares... guess you dont want those.
Why not get them and your bumpers line-x'd? I think that would look / perform pretty well.

I've seen 2-3 RHD surf's 5-10 RHD LC's, still haven't seen a hilux yet...

BTW the SONTT meet is April 15 at square one, are you coming? Should be atleast 30-40 trucks. www.sontt.com

 

hey someone stole your bed...

 

I did. I've had the FSM as long as I've had this truck (16 years in April). I did confirm 100 percent the rear yoke is in phase -- I pulled it apart again, rotated it a spline off clockwise and counterclockwise and either way it was obviously misaligned so it was okay all along.

I discovered the too-much grease I pumped in the slip joint one late freezing cold Sat. night last month really aggrevated the vibration. Before I reinstalled the joint back in phase, I dug out all the excess grease with a screwdriver. Forturnately, the vibration is just a tingle now around 20 km/h. It's noticeable, but not as bad as a week ago. I'll just have to live with it for now and tune it out. There's too much else to do!

 

Not sure if it's of any help but when I replaced my suspension with OME components I had a significant vibration from about 70km/h and faster that was REALLY noticeable from 120km/h and up.

I had my pinion angle adjusted some with shims and that seemed to only help a little bit. Eventually it just became a matter of time before it almost entirely went away, I think it was a matter of the springs settling some and also perhaps the front tires riding differently due to the change in camber from the new TBs and BJ spacers.

 

Yeah, I'm leaning more and more toward Bushwackers; I like the look a bit better although the Jungles are a really good deal. Not sure about Line-X just yet but who knows.

How come I didn't know about SONTT?? I'd like to go.

 

It's good you mention this, because that's what I've been thinking. The springs settling, yes, but also, maybe the driveshaft joints get embedded over time running the same angles and when you lift a truck, changing the normal running angles, the joints need to re-embed if that's a word. We'll see.

That's the great thing about these forums, knowing you're not the only one.

 

Oh yeah: when I put the NWOR springs years back, two factors were different; first, the truck was only four years old. Second, I ran Dunlop Radial Mud Rovers (stock 31" size) and they were vibrating, buzzing, howling, LOUD tires. Tough off-road tires, but very pavement unfriendly.