irab88's 1993 PickUp Build-Up Thread
#442
Registered User
wire it right meaning use the pressure switch not just wire it up to keyed ignition like most others do.
Summit has em. http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...s/?Ns=Rank|Asc
if oil pressure falls below 7psi it shuts the fuel pump off. Only possible drawback to this is it might take an extra crank or two to start when the oil pressure is @ 0. One way around this is to also wire a rocker switch to bypass the safety switch when starting, but can also be done a different way in where you wire a relay to trigger the fuel pump when key is in start position that bypasses the safety switch as well. Confusing I know but....
Summit has em. http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...s/?Ns=Rank|Asc
if oil pressure falls below 7psi it shuts the fuel pump off. Only possible drawback to this is it might take an extra crank or two to start when the oil pressure is @ 0. One way around this is to also wire a rocker switch to bypass the safety switch when starting, but can also be done a different way in where you wire a relay to trigger the fuel pump when key is in start position that bypasses the safety switch as well. Confusing I know but....
#444
wire it right meaning use the pressure switch not just wire it up to keyed ignition like most others do.
Summit has em. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Air-Fuel-Delivery/Section/Fuel-Pumps-Regulators/Part-Type/Oil-Pressure-Safety-Switches/?Ns=Rank|Asc
if oil pressure falls below 7psi it shuts the fuel pump off. Only possible drawback to this is it might take an extra crank or two to start when the oil pressure is @ 0. One way around this is to also wire a rocker switch to bypass the safety switch when starting, but can also be done a different way in where you wire a relay to trigger the fuel pump when key is in start position that bypasses the safety switch as well. Confusing I know but....
Summit has em. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Air-Fuel-Delivery/Section/Fuel-Pumps-Regulators/Part-Type/Oil-Pressure-Safety-Switches/?Ns=Rank|Asc
if oil pressure falls below 7psi it shuts the fuel pump off. Only possible drawback to this is it might take an extra crank or two to start when the oil pressure is @ 0. One way around this is to also wire a rocker switch to bypass the safety switch when starting, but can also be done a different way in where you wire a relay to trigger the fuel pump when key is in start position that bypasses the safety switch as well. Confusing I know but....
the only other question is where do i put the pressure switch?
let us know how that turns out. the only thing is that the 1uz has way too much electronics to work with propane. the "efi" kit basically strips the 22r-e of all wiring (except ignition and alt) and uses the stock manifold kind of as a carb'd intake
#446
Registered User
the pressure switch would attach just like any other aftermarket pressure gauge. Wether it be an oil filter adapter ring or some sort of tee fitting on your oil pressure sender and whatnot. Just remember the factory oil pressure hole is not an NPT fitting.
#447
i don't know about natural gas, but i would assume it would be similar in setup.
aaaaand
i just got off the phone with bill from nashfuel, and was extremely helpful with all my questions. their kit ($699) is bolt-on efi dual-fuel. sweeeeeeeeeeeeet. he's going to get me some pics later, so i'll be sure to post them here
thanks brandon. i'll probably do a "tee" from the sender
aaaaand
i just got off the phone with bill from nashfuel, and was extremely helpful with all my questions. their kit ($699) is bolt-on efi dual-fuel. sweeeeeeeeeeeeet. he's going to get me some pics later, so i'll be sure to post them here
thanks brandon. i'll probably do a "tee" from the sender
Last edited by irab88; 03-02-2011 at 09:27 AM.
#452
i've seen some vehicles that use it (besides buses). it's pretty neat what they can do now-a-days. i haven't looked into natural gas, but i know i can get propane easier than natural gas
the next thing i need to look at is where to mount the tank(s). i was thinking of using one large tank and one or two bbq-style tanks that could be changed out at home depot or something. since my bed is already dented, i wouldn't be opposed to putting an access door towards the front (cab side) and have a slide-out tray. i need to take some measurements, but i think i could pull it off
i also read that lpg is better for turbos...
(not in my near future)
the next thing i need to look at is where to mount the tank(s). i was thinking of using one large tank and one or two bbq-style tanks that could be changed out at home depot or something. since my bed is already dented, i wouldn't be opposed to putting an access door towards the front (cab side) and have a slide-out tray. i need to take some measurements, but i think i could pull it off
i also read that lpg is better for turbos...
(not in my near future)
#454
Registered User
Tanks would be the issue, i am thinking bumper tire carrier, and tanks where spare used to be. You could easily make a drop out canister that would hinge so you don't need to cut up your dad's(haha) bed.
#455
if i do this, i'll probably just have two or three tanks in the bed, nothing permanent until i figure out a design. i still need to find out what pressure fuel to run (both propane and gas). i talked with an rv sales guy today about propane, and there are motor-homes that cary 100lb tanks. they also sell tee fittings and propane hose by the foot, along with almost any other type of adapter.
woo.