it's only noticeable if you look down at it. the tires stick out of the fender about half-an-inch, so it's a subtle change. also, the hubs look a lot better as they're now more protected by the wheels

the first two of the last post were from my phone; htc trophy. the rest are from my newly acquired olympus vr-320 (on sale for cheap)
yup. the 30x9.5r15's are a tad wider than the stock 235x75r15's

nope. i do need longer shocks, and new springs soon-ish. i want to try my hand at making a bastard-pack

the gears below 4th are lower, so up-shifting is nicer, but down-shifting is a bit trickier. also, you need to be completely stopped to get into first. the clutch is fine, and it's very predictable on the street, but off-road it squeals like a pig. once i've had enough with this one, i'll opt for a heavy-duty fiber clutch. the short-shifter has nothing to do with the clutch; it just makes going through the gears a bit stiffer

thanks, yeah, i love the ext-cabs.

that's because i never did say anything like that haha. i don't have anything at the moment, but i wouldn't mind another set (though, another set = another bit of coinage)

the "zune dude" likes his phone, but doesn't love it. i got it right before all the new 4g phones were coming out, so i'm still on 3g with slightly older (but still current) technology. it's not without it's glitches, though

 

triple-sticks

 

Not sure I like that the weiaght is being transferred to the lock body/studs and not the axle housing itself but to each his own... looks like it will work as long as the studs hold up but I'd be checking them extra close for wear each time the wheel came off...

fwiw I'm running 31*10.50*15 on same rims with no rubbing I've noticed...

 

uh, what? "lock body"? "axle housing"?

the spacers do add a bit more stress to the wheel bearings, but not much. it'd be the same as running a rim with a more shallow backspacing. and toyota wheels are already lug-centric, so centering the wheel isn't an issue.

don't worry, i did plenty of research before even deciding to purchase the spacers.

and i don't think we have the same rims. i have taco steelies, and i think you have oem. also, i'm running bj-spacers.

 

today i started swapping in new body panels to make it look a li'l better. the first thing was the steering column "clam-shell" with the light (a while a go). this morning before work, i added an sr5 integration relay to make the light work. next will be the radio bezel to replace the circuit-city special (aka- cut up the radio slot to make the generic kit work instead of taking it apart to do it right). after that, low-center trim and shift boot bezel.

 

Nice job with the sharpe....

 

heh, thanks. i want to make some nicer labels, but for now, it'll work just fine

 

Lock body the shiney silver thing with the black cap... sorry having a brain cramp and can't remember the proper name for the part...

axle housing... the raised center part the rear wheel always gets jammed onto when you torque the studs and have to fight to get the wheel off of when you take the studs off... again brain cramp...

not worried about centering more about where and by what the weight is being carried should a lug nut come loose or stud fail.

 

i've daily-driven with only 4 studs one time (first time rotating the tires in a long time), not worried. i understand what you mean, though. think of it this way: the standard sas calls for 1.5" wheel spacers up front, and i know some guys wheel hard on them. i'm doing moderate wheeling on occasion, and daily-driving the rest. i should be fine

(locking hub, wheel hub )

 

awwww gosh i hope my w56 doesnt give out under 200k

 

cut up an old auto shifter bezel. fits nicely



i'm going to make some cloth boots later to make it look a bit better





also used fishing line to sew the single boot and triple boot together. works like a charm since nothing else would stick to the rubber

 

Very nice. Like!

 

thanks.

i'm still getting warm air coming through the boot, but nothing major. i think i'll seal it up later, but it's fine for now.

as you can see in the pics, my interior looks like crap. i want to replace the radio bezel, so i'm waiting on some parts. should be able to do some work on it later this weekend

 

worked on my interior today.

old radio/hvac trim













first up, this is the ignition light that i got up and running. works well. it stays on a few seconds after you close the door.





i realized i had a lot of accessories, so i added a terminal block (20 amp fused)



and the new bezel













back together

 

Looks like you need an SR5 steering wheel to complete the conversion.

Great work!

 

thanks!

as for the wheel; it has a bunch of cruise control buttons on it. i have no use for those, and i have had extremely bad luck with cruise control in the past. plus i don't have anywhere under the hood to put it, haha

 

Man, that looks great... Nice interior PERIOD, but you've blended the 'SUPER TRANS-SHIFTERS' into the mix very OEM'ish-like! lol....

PS> Curious, NOT razzin ya... But, ..the yellow wires from kick panel to doors..... Electric Window Motor Swap wiring?

 

winner winner. i want to replace them with some spring-loaded contacts later so i can remove the doors with no plugs. something like these

 

Winner? What'd I win? Wait, ... was it me who won.....whatever it was that was winning? hahaha...

WOW, those are cool! You going to go 'doorless' at times, Ian? Contact AT the spring completes the circuit? ............ ??? hehehe.

 

yeah. pins (left) meet plate (right) whenever the door is closed. i'd like to go doorless, or even find another set to make half-doors, up at the ohv park.