very nice! I aspire to having my truck look as good. Thanks for sharing.

 

i've been getting the common idle surge on braking issue, actually basically since i've had the truck, but it only happens on cold days, which we don't get a lot of here in the Lone Star State. I'm also experiencing the temp spike with heater on issue. But, due to the excellent documentation and search function on this site, i've been able to figure out solutions to both issues without any noob question threads.

so i've ordered some stuff to fix tha right up:
the most expensive thermostat in the world
new aisin fan clutch ($39 on rock auto)
the LCE idle adjuster screw and TB rebuild kit
an iacv gasket so i can get that guy rebuilt and cleaned out
coolant


i also need to figure out what is squealing in my engine bay. belts are new-ish, <5k miles and a year old, only thing i changed recently was the PS idler bearing, now it squeals like a stuck pig when cold. I'm thinking the bearings in either the PS pump are on their way out, but i really don't want to have to rebuild that if i can get away with it.

now here's a question: Does anyone know what size (both diameter and length) the bolts are that hold the IACV onto the bottom of the TB? i want to swap them out with some cap head allens to make it easier in the future

 

I've answered my own question. Hopefully this helps someone in the future. Throttle body accessory bolts sizing.


IACVMounting bolt size: M5x16mm qty4
Dash pot bolt size: M5x14 qty 2
TPS bolts: M4x14 split washer, flat washer qty 2

I'd ordered the TPS bolt replacement set from LC Engineering. Turns out those bolts are too long and bottom out before clamping my TPS. Just order the bolts on Amazon and be done with it. its a 20mm Allen head cap screw and it's too long for my throttle body. And 18 would work. Or if you had the other necessary hardware to go along with it, it might just work... Maybe. I'd go with a 16 or 18 mm bolt just to be sure

 

Nice job on the research! Not enough people spend time to research problems.

Is your throttle body original?

When you take your IACV apart can you please count how many threads the adjuster is screwed in? Like how many turns till bottomed out?
There is nearly zero information on the internet about the factory setting. There is a thread on yotatech with a picture of the factory orientation of the inside of the IACV but no mention about the number of threads it is screwed down.
To disassemble the IACV we cut down a spade drill bit, check out post #21 in our engine rebuild thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...13/index2.html.
My cousin and I just finished a full 22re rebuild and he rebuilt the IACV but forgot to count how many turns the factory setting was at and there is no high idle at cold start. If you do not put it back to stock, you will not get a high idle for cold starts.
Thank you!!

Also maybe your belts are too tight now causing a squeak?

 

@84 yota dude, unfortunately, I finished up my rebuild and didn't take any pictures of the iacv internals. got it all slapped on the truck and that portion of the truck runs correctly now. The truck is currently my daily so i had to get it back together too quickly for pictures.

i didn't get a chance to take any pictures of the iacv guts, nor did i actually take it apart beyond taking the back cover off and cleaning the bowl. It turns out mine was stuck closed with carbon build-up. so I hit it with some brake cleaner and tapped it with a socket and it cleared up the issue. i tried to move the ring, but it was in there tighter than i cared to try for. i didn't have a spade bit wide enough for it to modify. so i didn't adjust the end stop distance and wasn't able to count the threads, though that's what i would've done to figure out where to put it back to or use the skinny end of a caliper to measure the distance between the outer mounting surface and the top of the adjuster nut thing.

in any case, my iacv was adjusted to where the slots were vertical and the slotted face was pretty much flush with the bowl it sits in(YMMV on the position of the slots.- as a typical threading machining operation isn't concerned with thread-start locations). the outer edges of the adjuster ring are chamfered so i could see a thread or 2, but the flat face of the ring was about in line with the bowl that sits down in. hopefully that helps. i would also recommend, if you can, get some stainless allen bolts to mount it to the bottom of the throttle body. m5x14 is the ticket, but maybe one m5x12 for the low corner. and use some loctite or something to seal the threads so you don't create a corrosion point. I stripped one of the phillips screws removing the thing. do the same for the TPS, m4x12-14.

shame that part isn't external like the older trucks so you can do an on the fly adjustment. if i had to do it again, i could probably do the whole procedure in an hour with coolant burping, but what a pain it would be.

i will say this though, it ran like garbage the first time through once i put coolant back in it . all the coolant lines that go to throttle body were filled with air and didnt evacuate until the thermostat opened up... took like 10minutes of agressively surging idle to get it to open too. once it was fully burped, it ran great! starts up at the right idle, slowly closes the iacv and the idle drops. no surging on braking. just like it should be.

 

as covered above, i pulled and cleaned up my throttle body and IACV. the iacv seems to have been jammed up with carbon buildup from the intake and crankcase ventilation. now it idles as it should while warming up and under braking, which was the goal of this whole process. i also replaced all phillips head screws on the throttle body with metric allen bolts so they don't strip as the phillips did. m5x12-14 for the iacv, m5x8-12 for the dashpot, m4x12 or 14 for the tps hold down bolts.

cue picture for edit:

doublechecked my TPS was in good shape and adjusted correctly, and removed all the carbon scale from the inside of the throttle body and hosed out all the vacuum ports with some brakleen.

I also replaced my thermostat with the 2 stage one from the old Celica blocks. the guy at the dealership could not comprehend why i wanted it or what i was doing. but it seems to have also solved the temp overshoot issue with the heater on. it did make burping the system take much longer though, as it would let just enough by for the first 3 or 4 minutes after the small stage opened up to keep it cool before the larger second stage opened and allowed all the air out of the lines that go into the throttle body.


i finally found where my oil leak is. looks like the front seal on my oil pump is bad, so it's been leaking oil all over my engine bay and slinging it. maybe that explains the premature belt squeal. i'll have to figure out if i need to replace it or can attempt to do a rebuild. that will have to wait 'til i pull the trans. then i can drain and clean the rad, replace the fan clutch, and rebuild the oil pump, and reseal the oil pump. maybe i'll upgrade the alternator too while im at it and do the intake side swap...

 

Those probably weren't Phillips head screws, rather they probably were Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws that look very similar to Phillips head screws, but have a slightly different profile. This makes the JIS screws easy to strip out when using a regular Phillips screwdriver.

 

A #2 driver fit quite nicely in them, as I was able to get the other 3 out with a little pb and percussion persuasion. However you're likely right. After working in a Japanese manufacturing plant, I don't doubt they used their own JIS hardware.

I can also attest to the ease of stripping. My driver indexed over one time and it ruined the screw.

 

Thanks for the detailed reply.

Glad it's running better!

The oil pump has a front seal and an O ring. Front seal is easy, take off harmonic balancer and use a seal puller from harbor freight (I shortened mine to fit better). Then save the old seal and use it to press in new seal with some slight hits from a hammer.
Another thing, check the harmonic balancer bolt is tight first. Mine was hand tight, but had an aftermarket seal so I put in a toyota one anyways.

 

got an e-locker yesterday.

 

I knew it was coming, as 5th had been making a lot of noise lately and the clutch is slipping under moderate power in 4th and 5th, but it was finally time

-Transmission rebuild-

I didn't want to have to have someone else do it for me, but I took Shirlee to a highly reputed transmission shop in Austin Monday morning and dropped her off to have the transmission rebuilt and the marlin crawler clutch and accessories I'd been sitting on for a while installed.

I really wanted to do the clutch and rear main seal myself, but I don't have a second vehicle and I can't be without a vehicle for the month or so I had planned to do that and a slew of other repairs. Those will have to come later.

Here's to getting Shirlee back and not being scared to drive on the highway for the possibility of grenading 5th. :beers:

 

Let us know how it goes after the rebuild! Nice looking truck?

 

Transmission rebuild report:

feels great with a new clutch and no noise in any gears. now i hear a whine in the rear diff so that will need to be addressed.
cant wait to install the new hydraulics! new slave and master cylinders, and a stainless braided clutch line will go in eventually. i think it needs to be bled but it feels SOOOOOOO much better than before. stalled the truck a few times due to the engagement of the marlin HD clutch i had installed.

 

just ordered a front main seal and oil pump. gonna replace those this weekend if time allows. they should be hear sunday. shirlee leaks oil like crazy from the front of the engine. ive determined its the front main seal and possibly the top bolt in the oil pump leaking.

my fan clutch also went out a couple weeks ago intermittently,and i already have a new one to replace it with, so i'll get to replace that as well. that will honestly make replacing the oil pump easier. lots of maintenance coming up this weekend, but hopefully it fixes my oil leak and i'll be good to park in my own driveway again once i get it fixed! fingers crossed.

i also moved into a new place with a dope garage setup. i'll get pics while i'm doing some work over the weekend.

 

ladies and gentlemen,

i have fixed the oil waterfall that was my front main seal.

new oil pump, new front main seal, speedisleeve on the harmonic balancer (grooved for days) and a new crank pulley botl and i'm back in business.

the oring from my old oil pump was chewed halfway thru for some unknown reason, maybe the gear, maybe cavitation. so i was leaking from there too.

now the only place my block leaks is from the headgasket. i'll take the oil covered W.

i'll post pics of the harmonic balancer and the sludgefest later in a post edit.

 

time for some pics

first up is the most recent:
---Start of the sound system install ---
i started my audio build this weekend(10/16), after years of waiting, and a year or more of planning.


after much deliberation and some wheeling and dealing with my local shop (custom sounds in Austin, TX) i've finalized my parts list. it is as follows:



Headunit: Pioneer DEH-80PRS

Amp: Kenwood Excelon x802-5 (5 Channel)

Sub: JL 10TW3

Components: Focal Performance PS165v1

sound deadening: Dynamat extreme, ccf, heat shielding, etc.





The overall build ethos is to keep it clean, simple, and stock looking, but in the most aurally pleasing way possible given a reasonable (relative i know) budget.



i can and will do pretty much all of the fab and finish work myself.



the final build will have the 80prs in the dash - duh - , (already installed actually at time of posting); amp in an tbd location; custom built sealed sub box, center mounted; door pods for the woofers (probably not sealed, but TBD) with custom door pockets built in; tucked and clean, no corners cut wiring and sound deadening; bucket seats installed; and a custom built center console with some trick features i have planned.


I was able to get a good deal on all the system parts, and i got a full single cab set of dynamat for free, so i'll be using that too.



now for some preliminary install pics:



original dash and HU -









removed the dash to install a new gauge cluster with a tach and some extra gauges.











Spaghet:





no more spaghet:







the odometer on the new cluster was 8000 miles low, so rigged up a setup with a drill, the worm gear, and some zipties to roll the odometer forward to make the new cluster match the old one that came out of the truck.







removed all other dash parts to remove old crappy kenwood headunit.

it ended up having an HD radio antenna hardwired in. i'll have to order a new antenna cable for when i go back in to run RCAs to the new amp in the next phase of install.



HU and new cluster installed:











i'll do glamour shots again when its all installed. until then, you guys just get potato phone shots.



installing the HU is just the first part of the build. i'm in the process of finishing the cad models for the box and door panel parts. i have some decisions to make coming up on amp placement, tweeter placement, active vs passive, and general aesthetic stuff. it'll be fun for me. feel free to give 1 or 2 cents. i may ignore it.
or not...

 

now i'll do my best to do Everything else in order.

moved into a new place first of september. it had the most important things. a yard, and a 2 car garage. we promptly went to work spoiling ourselves with a nice garage setup. enough room to work on cars and bike, and bench, tv and sound system, and a gym setup too. its fantastic. if it had AC and a beer fridge i wouldnt ever leave.

this is just the back wall:


i also made this trick modular socket storage in my toolbox. peg board base with 3d printed inserts that hold the sockets and wrenches in place. still some tweaking is left to be done on it, but its functional and unique:




then, the biggest thing i've done to Shirlee in quite some time.
i replaced the oil pump and repaired the harmonic balancer. i also replaced the fan clutch as it was definitely dead.

this is 100% doable without removing the radiator. it just takes some finesse and the mouth of a sailor to remove the fan, fan clutch, and radiator upper fan shroud all as one jacobs ladder type assembly and lower them onto the ground, or in my case my foot. it would also behoove you to release the belt tension on the alternator/waterpump belt. i dont have AC, so that may change things.

starter bumped the crank pulley fixing bolt off. i stressed about that one for 2 weeks, worries i was gonna break something and be completely screwed. no way i could have extracted that out of the crank without wayyyyy more work. luckily, fortune smiled on ya boy and i was able to get it off without drama.

the worst thing about the whole ordeal was finding out my alternator was a piece of garbage and the bracket holding the top of the alternator had snapped. i was able to get it all back together just fine to where it doesnt move, but that will need to be replaced eventually. i'll either do a GM alt swap or get spendy with a high output LCE unit.

enough typing, my fingers hurt. have a look at why i thought my front end was oil niagra falls:



not 2, but 3 rings in my harmonic balancer. sleeved it and now we're good.

messed up oring causing some issues im sure

old vs new


and yes i put some sealant on the top oil pump bolt. so dont ask. i also replaced the pulley fixing bolt.

shirlee still leaks oil. but only a couple of drops now instead of a puddle before. still not sure where from. possibly oil pan but i really doubt that. definitely not distributor o ring or bolt, both are new and have stayed clean. i'm thinking where the head and timing over meet the block, and/or where the block and cover meet the oil pan. my money is on "and" over "or".

 

did a little bit of work on my cad models for the sub enclosure and door parts i'm gonna be making. decided to throw a model of the actual sub in there just to practice some.





i'll also throw some more pictures in of my preliminary designs. they will certainly be changing; i actually did these last year and i've had some new ideas since then on what i want. but i do want to get a good log of the progression from original ideas through to completion so i'll post em up.

pictures below:

old sub box design. i know its rough. but it was enough for me to figure out the box volume and some of the fitment issues in the truck.
box volume without a sub is 1.1 cuft for this design. the sub i have has a recommended volume for a sealed enclosure of .6 cuft. so i have plenty of room to work with if i can make this box fit.



this is that box with the sub modeled in it


section view showing that the sub has plenty of room around it.



i'm designing door card inserts to make to act as both speaker rings and door pockets. the cab is small so storage is at a premium. any little space like this that i can take advantage of is important to me.



thats all i have for now. i only have time to work on this a couple evenings a week so it''ll be a bit slow at first while i finish planning the build

 

it's always a good day when you can do an oil change without spilling a drop.

i also finally got my oil pressure sensor hooked back into my wiring harness so now my oil pressure gauge functions on my new SR5 cluster. so thats nice.

that is all.

 

one more month down in my 12 months of camping once a month goal.

this was the first solo trip I've done in a while, and man it was nice to get out of the house and away from EVERYONE. except my dog. but she doesn't count.

I had planned to meet some friends out near driftwood to go to a brewery and enjoy the weather. i drove out there separate from them. its always such a beautiful drive from Austin toward driftwood. great winding, hilly roads, low on traffic, and high on views.

we hung out at the brewery for a while before i took off toward a site i'd found on hipcamp about 45 minutes into a pitcher

i found my hipcamp site well after dark, typical, and proceeded to follow my host down a short dirt road while he was on a beach cruiser bicycle.
hey had just cleared this new site and he said i was welcome to use any of the wood around for a fire. A+ my friend.
i did have to clear some of the site to make it tentable. but that was no big deal. i split some of the maple logs and with each strike, grimaced in proverbial pain as i watched my mostly unused ax work the head off the handle... i got all the fire wood i needed for the evening cut before it let go thankfully

built a nice little fire in the ring already made by the owners. i was clearly the first one in the site. then i went to work using my shovel as a scythe to clear a spot for my tent, got that set up, and cracked open a cold one. heated up dinner, and that was all she wrote.









woke up the next morning and went to go split a little more wood when the inevitable hppened (see pic). looks like i get to upgrade now. i shouldnt have sent a boys ax to do a man's job anyway. maybe i'll re-handle it and make a heavy hatchet or intruder deterrent.



all in all, for not having public land around, its not too terribly difficult finding spots to camp, at least in the hill country.

i want this to be the start of something that i do more frequently. i've really missed it since moving back from Reno. it was one of the reasons i decided to do the new years resolution to camp 12 times in 12 months. i'm already looking at going to camp outside llano in the next couple weeks and possibly do some fishing on the Colorado River.