THAT IS SICK, MAKE MY STUFF 5 INCHES HIGHER THAN FACTORY TOO, DUTCH!!!! PLEASE? hahaha. Wow, LOOKS AWESOME IN THERE, .... getting closer and closer, woot! lol.

 

Ok I exaggerated a bit. I looked back at previous posts and did some math. The factory xmember is aobut 2 1/4". I replaced it with 5/8" plate, which means I gained the difference, which is 1 5/8". I also chopped out 2" of material for a total of 3 5/8" extra clearance. Not 5", but still not bad for a 2" drivetrain lift. I also found out I really overdid it with the 5/8" xmember. Looks like budbuilt replaces them with 1/4" plate. Better safe than sorry, though.

 

I didnt know there where the various styles of injectors. I learned something new. It is looking better. Great job so far.

As far as rebuilding further down the road. These things are fairly easy. I have rebuilt one whole motor and 3 top end rebuilds. In a world when cash isnt an issue, I would of done all complete rebuilds. I plan on doing a complete rebuild this winter and it is only cause it has some pits in the walls.

The bottom ends on these are pretty solid, so unless I suspect something I just do the top end and a complete new head can be had for $250 plus gaskets. But I dont keep my foot to the floor. Some say that if you pull the head you may as well do the bottom. I can agree with that when cash is available. The machine shop is what can add up quick.

Just trying to help with some options so when you do get to that point. One thing about Japanese motors over Domestic, that I found out when I started working on them, is even several hundred mile, they can go witout having a ridge on the cylinder. It was really suprising.

 

Hey guys, not thread progress, but just an update. The day after I left my last company I had a job interview with a new company. They called me in for a second interview this past Thursday, and Friday they offered me a job. I start Monday, on the afternoon shift. Looks like I'll only have weekends to work on the truck, but at least the funds shouldn't be so tight. Fingers crossed that this is the job for me. I kinda went from being a big fish in a small pond to being a small fish in a big pond, so I'm more than a little apprehensive, but should be ok.

 

Congratulations!! Im sure that is a bit of relief. At least being the small fish now you can have a chance grow into something you may like. Never enough time or money.

8 hours working, 8 hours sleeping and 8 hours home (yeah right, more like 20/2/2), Its a 1/3 of your life, you will do great. Congrats again.

 

Congratulations!! Im sure that is a bit of relief. At least being the small fish now you can have a chance grow into something you may like. Never enough time or money. I know how that goes.

8 hours working, 8 hours sleeping and 8 hours home (yeah right, seems like 20/2/2 nowadays), Its a 1/3 of your life, you will do great. Sounded like your were ready for a change from your last job and sometimes we need a little help from a pink slip to get you out a rut. Happened to me and I didnt like it at the time, but glad it did looking back.

Always nervous starting a new job,but you have a positive attitude and that makes a big difference. Getting weekends off just seems like that happens less and less these days, so you are really fortunate there. Congrats again.

 

KILL IT, HOMIE! lol... Seriously, VERY GREAT to hear that! My hope is, that IF IT'S meant for you, this business,..... that you'd QUICKLY go from lil fish in big pond to "THAT'S A MONGROL COI ...... MOST DANGEROUS CARP IN THE WORLD".... as Deuce Bigelow would put it! I hope it offers you all the opportunities you'd want, bud....maybe even things you can't foresee just yet, right?

We'll all be fine waiting on your build to resume at breakneck speed,...... (sniff, sniff), .... HONESTLY, I'm fine....... hahahaha! lol

BEST WISHES, DUTCH!

Mark

 

Thanks for the good words guys, hoping I can get back to the truck soon, but the new company is offering crazy overtime, so I plan on working 13's for the rest of the week. The bad is delays on the truck. The good is if this keeps up, the finances for the engine rebuild later on should be much more forgiving. Maybe not Lc engineering forgiving (holy crap a guy could go through a lot of money quick on that site) , but possibly engnbldr forgiving.

 

Next week is my end of year ball tourney, but the weekend after that I'm hoping to swap over the injectors and knock sensor from the '88 engine to the Celica engine. If anyone felt like chiming in with a list of supplies I should pick up before hand, it would be appreciated. I think I'm going to pop off the water pump, too, because the engine was stored in an old granary for the past year or so, and I'm pretty sure mice were storing corn in the coolant channels. The intake was plugged, so I'm not worried about it in there, but I think I'll pop off the water pump and the thermostat and blow out all the coolant lines to be safe. So with supplies in mind: Which gasket material should I be using to put the water pump and plenum back on, will I need sealant of some sort to reinstall the knock sensor, etc. etc.
Once I get those things swapped over I'll see how much progress I can make swapping the rest of the wiring etc. Any other sensors In the block I should be planning on swapping? I'm sure I'll see them during the process, but I'd like to have a good plan before I start. A lot of what I'm doing now is all new to me.

 

hey dutch just checking in looks like its really comeing together. hope you can get all the engine diferences sorted out so you dont have issues when it comes time to fire it up.

 

Hello Dutch.. as far as sealing the water pump, I just put a light coat of that orange sealant on the gasket. I dont use sealant on the intake/plenum assembly. Just follow torque specs and feel you will be okay.

I dont recall using anything on the knock sensor, maybe some of that thread sealing tape if anything.

On your intake being plugged up. Is from mice or carbon? If it is carbon, I suggest while you have it out to pull the throttle body with the TPS and take the Plenum to the carwash. That EGR makes a mess. Thats why I make a block off plate. Could even use some cleaner and see someone on another post used oven cleaner. I havent used oven cleaner myself.

On my #43 post in my build thread, I try to give a few ideas about cleaning the intake/plenum.

Glad to see you back after it.

 

Hey Dutch, sorry I've been absent, .... STUPID SEAT DILEMMA! grrr! lol

Water pump- Not necessary, but I used a SUPER thin film on the timing cover side, slapped on the gasket, then super thin film on outside of gasket, bolt it up and DO NOT go past 9#.... on ANY bolts.

Intake to Head- Put a lil bead around the ports and especially around the coolant passages on the intake gasket. I choose Felpro for this one, buddy... they have a red silicone bead for where you're to apply a lil sealer, only slightly risen, and it fully compresses when installing the intake to 14#.

Intake to Plenum- No sealer necessary

Thermostat- NEVER use sealant on the Rubber O-ring/Seal or housing. I had a leaking one, once, and it was a bad gasket/o-ring(before I learned much on these).... so I got a new one, put sealant on there, and it leaked, within 200 miles.

Heater Hose/Pipe O-ring to intake center- Just like with the thermostat, the lil o-ring that inserts vertically(from bottom upward) into the center of the intake(heater core pipe),.... NO sealer, and make the trip to Toyota for that o-ring(2$), ... it's a perfect fit and mine sealed on the first one from the dealer for 166K. In fact, it only leaked when I rebuilt and didn't replace it. It turns to chalk after hitting the air for a few days, ya know?(I can post a pic of this one, to see if you even have it

Knock Sensor- It should be installed into a port in the block that is NOT a passage to coolant or air, ... no sealant necessary. In fact, it might dampen it's ability to sense knocks(maybe?). Just like the Top Right Timing cover hole(for the alternator bracket install).... It's a threaded solid hole, nothing passes through it.

 

Thanks for the input guys, and Terry I must have miscommunicated. What I meant to say was the intake was plugged with a rag before it was stored to keep dust etc. out, so it's the only hole the mice wouldn't have gotten in. I need to see if toyota can still get me a water pump gasket for this thing.

 

Hey Dutch; I'm just catching up on your build, I haven't been checking your thread much as I've been working on my own junk!
Here's a little more info on the injectors. Toyota used low impedence injectors (approx 1.2-< than 3.0 ohms) when they started injecting these engines. In order to keep the current low enough not to burn up the injector coils they also used an resistor pack and you will find it on the passengers side fender beside the starter relay. Go to this post and you will see it in the picture.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...runner-239021/
Midway through the 88 year Toyota changed their injectors to high impedence injectors (typically 13.8 ohms) and they removed the resistor pack from the harness. So if your truck has a resistor pack then it has low impedence injectors, if not then it has high impedence injectors.
You always have to match the injectors, and the engine sensors with the ECU. The fuel maps programmed in the ECU are for the factory injectors, the programming is for a pulse duration for a set period of time to deliver the correct amount of fuel to the cylinder. The 88 ecu is made to work with the sensors that came on the 88 engine, so you are going to need the O2 sensor, the Water temp sensor (not to be confused with the Water temp gauge sender), knock sensor, throttle position sensor, afm, etc. I know that this is only a temporary engine and you probably won't try and tweak it, but some guys will tell you that you can use the sensors from the Celica engine, problem is if you get it going and it doesent run right where do you start in your troubleshooting? Use all of the 88 stuff, get it running right, first, then if you want to play with it to try and get more out of it, make one change at a time, that way if it doesn't work out you know for sure what to change back.

 

Hadmatt thanks so much for your input. You're saying halfway through 88 they changed the injectors? I have 2 '88s one is a parts truck and one is the truck you've seen me tear down. I was planning on swapping everything to the celica engine, just to make sure. I knew '88 was an oddball year from my own research and also other people chiming in but now you're saying they changed the impedence mid year, so I'll really have to look closely. Hope "your own junk" is going better than mine. I started a new job on afternoon shift and havent' done anything in almost a month.

 

IT'S OK, we'll be patient, Dutch! lol. ......... NOW HURRY UP, we're waiting patiently!!!! HAHAHA.

Seriously, ...... can't wait to see you get this thing closer and closer to PURRRRRRRfect! Wish that "location" was "Southern CA, CITY of Ontario!" lol. ..... I'd HAVE to be there to see it start up! lol.

I've mentioned the injector variance issue to many people on here... Especially since I have an 87 22RE and the only FSM I could find(which seems to be the common one out there) is an 88 version. So I wanted people to make sure they tested differently for the injectors if they had the resistor, like I do, in their 85-88.5 rigs. (The testing at the ECU is DEFINITELY different, and I BARELY caught it while about to button up the ECU connectors. I figured I'd found the problem at my No.10 and No.20 pins.... but I WAS WRONGGGGG! dun-dun-dunnnnnnnnnnnn) lol.

 

I know you have been tied up with work. Know how that goes. When you get the time to work on it again, am sure it something you will get to really enjoy. Just not enough time in a day.

I didnt know about the different injectors until recently when Chef mentioned it. One thing I noticed is that some have red plastic instead of white plastic on the injectors. I wonder if that is a way of knowing which injectors you have? I really dont know if this is true, but is it a possiblity?? I seen on ebay awhile back someone selling some and it got my curiosity going.

 

Terry: you are kind of on the right track...the color of the injectors is a quick way for Toyota guru's to spot what size injector an engine might have in it. The color indicates the size of the injector in respect to the amount of fuel it will flow in cubic centimeters per minute. (cc/min). For example my 86 22RTE has pink injectors and these flow at 295 cc/min, but they are just called 295 injectors. Now Dutch's 88 22-re if it has a resistor pack might have orange injectors, which have an impedence of 1.7 ohms and flow at 200 cc/min, but if his 88 does not have a resistor pack the injectors are probably orange/blue with an impedence of 13.8 ohms and flow 200 cc/min also.
Injectors are classed by color, but they are also classed by the type of connector that plugs into them as well as the type of mechanics that actually sprays the fuel.
I have been collecting info of of the internet for 10 years and I have a 5" binder pretty well full with printed info about Toyotas. My reasoning is web pages and sites come and go, but I'll always have a printed page. My son calls me the Toyota Guru, that's quite a compliment, but there's not much truth to it. However, I have accumulated a lot of info over the years. Below is a couple of pages I printed in 2004, the website is a dead link, but I scanned them just to share them with you, Dutch, Chefyota and other Yotatech enthusiasts who may have questions about injectors. I take no credit or claim to this information, It was accumulated by a couple of gentlemen named Mike Dowe and Timo Raikkonen, I simply have a copy that I'm passing along.
[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

I've got this info in a three hole binder, so please excuse anywhere lettering is missing due to the three hole punch.
You can see with Dutch's 88 that the connector for a 22re injector that is low impedence and requires a resistor pack is totally different to the connector for a 22re injector that is high impedence.

 

Hello Hadmatt54.. Thanks for the info. I am still learning things on these trucks. I figured on the wire clip injectors, that going to the plastic squeeze tab was just an improvement as the wire clip type broke alot.

I saved your PM and have this marked in a folder for me to build up my little binder. I plan on being involved with these trucks for some time and this will be useful.

 

So I know I've been missing in action for way too long, but I did actually get something done this weekend. Not much, but something. Before I get to build progress I wanted to get some other stuff out of the way. I asked the wife to pick me up some beer on her way home at the end of last week because I'm working afternoon shifts and the beer store is closed at 4 in the morning when I'm done. She buys me an octagon of beer:

I'd never heard of such a thing, but there it was sitting on the counter when I got home. She'd have to pick up a keg to top that one. I went out to the father in law's to work on the 4runner, and found out he'd bought a new toy:

It's a pontiac sunrunner. He bought a set of tracks for his 4wheeler a year or so ago, and it's really tough to steer, so he's hoping to put the tracks on this thing. I told him he could use my daily driver after I get the project 4runner finished, but he needed something more narrow to fit through his 4wheeler trails to get firewood. That, and there's a max weight capacity on the tracks that we're pretty sure the 4runner would be over without serious modifications. I realise none of this is build related, but I thought it was pretty cool nonetheless. I forgot to take pics of the tracks so you guys would know what I was talking about, but I'll take a pic sometime when we finally get the tracks on the sunrunner.