So this post will probably be a pretty boring read, because I'll have to post a bunch of pics for my reference. This took me half a day, mostly because I had to stop and lable, and then take a pic almost every step I took. Here's where I was when I started:


This next one is a reminder for where the ground on the wiring harness gets attached:


And where another clip goes to stabilize the wiring harness:

A couple clips for the wiring:


I ended up taking those apart after the intake plenum was off, but its a good pic for reference. You can see I've started to label the lines as I take them off. I just put a number on the line, and the same number where It connects too. Seemed easier than writing descriptions on it. Another clip:

This next one is where the EGR system attaches to the back of the plenum:

And here the plenum is off:


Kinda hard to see in this pic but I'm pointing at the clip for the coolant temperature sensor:

You can see little pieces of corn if you look closely. Compliments of the neighborhood mice during storage.
You can see I'm taking apart the fuel rail in this next pic. The big wrench on the fuel line connection is a 22mm. The little wrench I think was a 12mm. It's on a small bracket holding the fuel line to the rail.

I pulled the rail, and then the wiring harnass. The injectors are still connected to the harness.

I'm going to end this post here, in the hopes that the server hasn't timed out on me.

 

So at this point I turned to the engine that came out of this truck back during my dismantling process.

I took very little pics because it's more of the same, but I thought you guys might be interested to see the view inside the intake:



I know very little about this engine, besides what the previous owner told me, and he was a car salesman, so... yeah. He told me the timing chain bore through it's cover, I didn't ask any questions because I'd heard the same story a dozen or more times. I wasn't expecting to see the cappachino mixture in the intake, however.

I also found a pic on the web for one of the tracks we'll be putting on the sunrunner:

 

HEY DUTCH!

Long time no hear.... and great it is to hear from ya, man! Glad you're doing alright.

Trippy lil Sunrunner rig. haha. Gonna be insane with those tracks, eh?

Can't wait to see you firing this thing up... I know, you've a ways to go, but 'you're on it', and that counts for something! lol...

 

Hello Dutch, glad to see you are able to get something done. Those mice can do a number on things. Seen the stuff in your intake.Your new schedule I am sure keeps you busy.

Keep taking pics. It will really pay off when yo go to put it back togther. I think it was you that showed me or maybe not, not sure, but just incase it wasnt. When taking a pic of where on thing connect to another, if your pinky and thumb can reach the two items and fits in the pic, it makes a real good reference picture also.

As for the server timing out, 2 things that I do, is one, I will write my post and copy to note pad, or the other thing I do is when I am finished writing a post I do the right click thing and copy my post before posting it. That way if the server has timed out, all I have to do is refresh the screen, log in and go straight to the post message screen. Probably will do the same just for this post.

Tracks do make a difference for getting around in some areas. Hope all is going well for you.

 

Hey Dutch glad to see your making progress, although it may be slow Just keep at it. Those tracks are cool anxious to see how the sun runner turns out.

 

Dutch: I've got to say I've never seen S*** like that in an intake and I've been working on engines since I was 14!
The timing out issue used to really tick me off, but when you first open up the website and sign in and select remember me, you will always be logged in on that particular computer and you will never time out. Yotatech remembers me on my home computer and I can still log in on my work laptop!

 

Hey guys sorry it's been so long since my last update, I'm still getting something done here and there, but haven't had time to sit down and work on the thread. I'm still swapping over parts from the '88 4runner engine to the celica engine.
This is a pic of the celica engine:

I'm pointing at the spot where the oil sensor is on the '88 engine, I was pretty sure if I moved the oil sensor down there, it would give me room to put the knock sensor onto the celica engine. Here's one after I moved the sensor:

Here's a pic of where the knock sensor is on the '88 engine:

It's the thing with masking tape on it. I match-marked it with the clip I removed from it earlier. Problem is there is no spot for it on the celica engine. I had thought maybe there would be a threaded hole under the fuel filter, because the two engines use different brackets and slightly different fuel filters, but that wasn't the case. I also realised I won't be able to use the fuel filter I had bought earlier for the thing. I'll need one specific to the celica. I've decided not to spend any money on the engine till I'm sure I can get it running, so that will have to be later.
Here's a pic of the parts from the two engines side by side after I'd finished removing them all:

Couple pics of the different injectors, because we've talked a bunch about them:

Those ones were from the '88 and these next ones are from the Celica engine:

Thats about when I realised even more things were different. I started to swap out the celica wiring harness with the 4runner one at the same time as the injectors, and realised the throttle position sensor wasn't the same either. The clip wouldn't connect because the one from the '88 has 4 prongs, and the celica one had 3 prongs.
I figured it was safest to swap out the whole thing instead of trying to pop off just the sensor. Here's a pic of the one on the '88 engine:


It was obvious I'd have to do some cleaning first:

I rolled up my sleeves and went from this:

to this:

The throttle cable linkage is completely different between the two as well:

The top one is actually the '88 throttle almost attached to the celica engine. The bottom is the one from the Celica. I didn't notice the difference until I tried to put the '88 one on.
Here's what it sorta looked like before it was taken apart:

So I had to swap the brackets from the '88 plenum over to the celica one as well. The bottom one is the '88 plenum:

I also had to move this little guy here over to the Celica plenum, because there isn't one there.
I don't even know what it's for, probably updated emissions equipment, I'm moving it over just to be safe.
The hole is already on the celica engine, it's just got a plug in it:

I also have to move over these three sensors:

Once again I don't have a clue what they're for, or even if they're sensors at all. I just assume they'll all be needed to make the '88 ecu think it's running an '88 22re after I fire it up. I'm not really sure what I'm going to do with all the vacuum lines yet, because some of them go to places that don't exist on the celica engine. Like this one:

It goes down to the underside of the intake to another thing that doesn't exist on the celica engine:

Anyone know what that's for? There are no spots to bolt it to the celica intake, and I don't even know if the intakes would bolt up if I stripped it all back down and rebuilt it with all '88 components. Is it part of the EGR system? This line that runs to it looks like a coolant line so I have no idea what it does:

That's as far as I've gotten. I still dont know where I'm going to put the knock sensor, not really sure what I'm going to do about all the vacuum lines, and completely uncertain about most of what I'm swapping over is for, so I can honestly say I've never felt more stupid than during these steps of the process. I truly wish I had just bought another '88 22re instead of trying to make this work, but now I'm actually curious to see what happens before I do go out and buy a different engine.

 

I just wanted to post a few more pics that I missed. Here's a shot of a trio of wiring clips I needed to pop. The black one is for the throttle position sensor, the other two, I have no clue, but wanted to post them anyway. Also here's a really hard to get at clip:

That pic is kinda hard to orient yourself around, but it's looking down past the fuel rail after the plenum has been removed to a little blue wiring clip. You actually have to get to it from under the intake, but I couldn't find a way to take a good pic of it when I was reaching under there. It may not be so bad if the engine was raised up, but the '88 engine is resting on a wood frame on the floor, so it was horrible for me to get to. Also can anyone believe all the sludge in that engine? I'm beginning to wonder if the previous owner had completely buried the truck in a mud hole or something while the engine was running. Otherwise I have no clue.

 

I thought I might be of some help Dutch but you seem to be getting it on your own, I will keep checking in maybe I can help down the road.
All that sludge has me worried for ya hope its OK.

 

that is for A/C idle adjustment

your pinky finger is on the A/C vacuum switching valve and the other is a vacuum switching valve for the EGR

that tube is for the 88 model year and newer EGR setup

I hope that helped you out. keep up the good work.

 

Thanks for all the clarifications, dark fairytales. If it's just egr crap, I'm assuming the truck should work fine without it. Might be interesting when the time comes to reattach all the vacuum lines, I didn't think about the a/c side of things, and neither my parts truck nor my daily driver has a/c to use as a guide.

 

Just to clarify the sludge is in the engine I took out, not the engine I'm trying to put in. I'm pretty sure at this point I'll be pulling the sludgey engine apart now, I'm entirely too curious at this point not to. After this thing gets running that'll be my next "hobby"

 

Hello Dutch.. Wow, I ddint realize there was that much difference between a Celica and trucks.

Iamsuperbleeder did a post somewhere about removing alot of the vaccum and emissions lines. Maybe that will help on some of your lines.

Not sure about the knock sensor. Maybe their is some way of fooling the sensor connector. I has to be run on some sort of resistance would be my guess.

Glad to see you are still making some progress. Hang in there. We are pulling for you.

 

Got some more done today, I'm on a bit of a deadline now because the Father in Law is going to need the space where I've got the body of the 4runner hanging for his snowblower soon. First of all has anyone had any experience with this stuff:

I'm still looking for bedliner options, preferrably a do it yourself brand that you can spray on with an undercoating gun.
I still had a bunch of brake lines to finish, the front ones were the most difficult:

I also still had to put on the flex line for the back of the truck. My auto parts guy found this one that was a couple inches longer than stock for me:

And installed:

I then moved on to the brackets for the spare tire assembly. They were pretty rusty:

I cleaned them up and well as I could and painted them, but I must've forgotten to take a pic. I'll try to remember to take one when I put them on the truck. The chain pully was seized when I took it off the truck, and I'd been soaking it in a pail of old gas because I didn't have any diesel fuel handy. It didn't look promising so I threw a bunch of penetrating oil on the one in my parts truck. If I can get it moving I'll just use that one instead. Once again I forgot to take any pics. I then pulled out the drive shafts and put some grease to the u-joints.

I almost missed this centre one on the front driveshaft:

I wirebrushed off the surface rust and gave them a couple coats of paint:

I then decided to put the alternator on. I noticed this bolt wouldn't go all the way in on the bracket:

I'm assuming its just one more difference between the two engines. I put the alternator on and found another difference:

I'll probably just make up a bracket to make that work. It seems like I can't get anything done without problems. That's all I got done. Doesn't seem like much now that I'm putting it down on the thread. I'm just trying to get as much done as I can before the body goes on, most of this stuff will be a royal pain to do underneath the truck.

 

NOOOOOOOOOOOO!

HAHAHA....

Lookey here, .... That bolt length is too 'long' becuase the mount goes over that one(or is it under?) Anyway, there's a spacer on one of those(THAT ONE, pretty sure). I'll get pics when I can, ok?

 

Got a bit more work done, started off with the drive shafts. I decided not to put the guard back on around the front drive shaft, because it just seemed like a salt/snow catcher. That meant I could take this bracket off:

Any thoughts from more experienced builders on that decision would be welcome. I wasn't sure if it was necessary but I put blue loctite on the bolts for the driveshafts just to be safe. I then decided to finish off the rear brake lines. All I needed to do was fasten the flex line to the bracket on the back of the gas tank, and then run a steel line to the junction at the load proportioning valve. I just happened to notice this by chance:

The flex line my auto parts guy got me was for a bubble flare, not a double flare. This is what it is supposed to look like:

That was I think the 3rd flex line I had gotten, and it was still wrong. If you remember, the first one was almost 2 inches too short, the 2nd one had two female ends instead of one male and one female, and this one was 2 inches too long (which was a good thing) but now turns out to be no good. I decided I was done with it and threw the original on, and finished the brake lines.

I also put the starter back on:

I took a pic to show overall progress:

At this point all really need done before the body goes back on is the fuel line. I'm pretty sure everything else can be done without too much trouble after the body is back on, and I'll be losing the spot I've been storing the body in very shortly, as my father in law will need it for the snow blower.
That fuel line has been a royal pain because I haven't been able to get the right fittings for it. Three weeks ago I went in to my parts guy and he didn't have them in stock that day. This weekend I again remembered I needed the fittings, and I went around town to a couple different stores, and once again they weren't in stock. I then drove to the next town over, and went to the Canadian Tire. The guy there gave me a fitting, said it was for a GM, but that it was 14mm, and should be the same thing I'm looking for. I got back to the shop to finish the fuel line, opened the baggie, and realised it was a 14mm bubble flare. Useless to me. Apparently everyone around here is determined to make me convert all fittings to bubble flares on my truck. I'll end my little rant there.

 

Hello Dutch.. I dont think the locktite will be a problem. Sounds like you are having a time with the fittings. Starting to look like a truck again and a nice job at that. Since you are getting close to putting the body back on, I was trying to remember any tips I could pass on.

The only thing I could think of that might help is when you are 2-6 inches from the body being set on the mounts is to connect your steering linkage. Also I used some of the largest phillps screw drivers that I could find to act as a guiding pin to help alighn the body and frame holes.

It will probably go quicker then you think when putting it back on and in my opinion it is actually easier then taking it apart. You will remember the steps you did when disassembling and also you wont be dealing with rusty bolts.

I have talked to others and taking it off of the frame seems intimidating at first, but you will feel like an old pro when you start putting it back together. Great job and things are looking great.

 

Thanks for the tips Terry. I'm actually worried about the steering linkage, I know I need to extend it, and I've not done this before. I think I need to drill out pins in the linkage, but I'm not sure where the pins are, I'll have to look the next time I'm at the shop.

 

hey dutch just checking in, looks like things are still comeing together for you. looking forward to seeing your rig come to completion.

 

Hey guys I'm having some issues with my daily driver lately, thought I'd throw it up here in case anyone had some thoughts. I started a new job 2 months ago, it's about a 40minute drive one way. The truck has been running completely normal for the entire time until this past shift. On the way to work there were a few moments where the engine seemed to miss. It didn't backfire, or have any symptoms other than just a sudden hesitation and loss of power, and then went back to normal. It happened I think 2 or three times on the way to work. On the way home from work it happened a couple times, and then got worse and worse until for almost 5 minutes of driving I thought the truck was going to die at any moment. It then drove symptom free for the rest of the drive home, which I believe was more than half of the drive. My first thought is moisture in the distributor causing a loss of spark, because it's been really wet these past few days, but I thought I'd throw it out to you guys for a second opinion. I really can't afford to mess around, I have another 30 days of probation left and I'd hate to screw up the new job because I don't make it to work as a result of truck problems. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.