When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well. I solved the dead cylinder issue. I'll just be the bigger man a s say that the issue DEFINATELY wasn't (sacrasm) my terrible wiring job. We'll say it was the cap and rotor...yeah, the cap and rotor was the issue. Problem solved!...
ok, maybe it WAS the fact that the injector pigtail I crimped on had pulled loose and was just being held in place with heat shrink. Which makes sense since every time I tested it it had a good connection, you lift up and it forces the tail to touch the connector, but you plug it in and the angle it bends caused the tail to pull out a bit.
anyways, I re-connected it and she fired right up and ran smooth for about 3 seconds before I realised she was puking coolant from the little hose that wraps around the thermostat. I forgot to re connect it to the TB. After pulling the intake off one more time, I have a run ing engine!
we got it timed correctly, but there is still a miss somewhere that we're not sure how to track down. Also, it sounds like a diesel. Something on the drivers side(from the sounds of it) clacks until about 1000 RPMs. Ill figure that out later. Tomorrow, though, need to figure out the miss and then the old girl will move under her power for the first time in...6 years, almost.
pics and videos as usual.
hopefully this is the last time I take this intake off. You can see the hose I forgot to re-attach between the thermostat and the #1 injector.
This is what greeted me when I removed the electrical tape. I thought I had done so good before!
All back together.
And a success beer! Well, it's a tecate, so it still tastes like failure, but it's what I had on hand in the shop.
Congratulations, SJ! Your tenacity is paying off.
On behalf of the east coast first gen 4runner owners, we celebrate your victory.
I don't have a Tecate, but will find something else...
Yeah a bit early in the morning for a celebratory beer, but I'll raise my coffee cup to you. Good job, you hit some major roadblocks but kept going. Great job. The low points make the high points that much sweeter.
I hate loose connections, they test good most of the time unfortunately.
as for the current miss, sounds like the idle is just really low, maybe a vacuum leak.
also setting the timing can affect idle, idle can affect timing. I had to toy around with mine a bit.
it wouldn't hurt to go through your misfire test again by pulling the wires and see if it's an all cylinder issue or single cylinder.
did you go through and check all of your wires?
i hate crimp connections, prefer the twist on stuff like that.
strip about an inch of wire, twist together tight at a hard angle, fold back on itself, tape tight as hell, shrink wrap. I have never had a wire job fail doing it that way.
Congratulations, SJ! Your tenacity is paying off.
On behalf of the east coast first gen 4runner owners, we celebrate your victory.
I don't have a Tecate, but will find something else...
Originally Posted by coryc85
Yeah a bit early in the morning for a celebratory beer, but I'll raise my coffee cup to you. Good job, you hit some major roadblocks but kept going. Great job. The low points make the high points that much sweeter.
Thanks guys!
Originally Posted by 92ehatch
I hate loose connections, they test good most of the time unfortunately.
as for the current miss, sounds like the idle is just really low, maybe a vacuum leak.
also setting the timing can affect idle, idle can affect timing. I had to toy around with mine a bit.
it wouldn't hurt to go through your misfire test again by pulling the wires and see if it's an all cylinder issue or single cylinder.
did you go through and check all of your wires?
i hate crimp connections, prefer the twist on stuff like that.
strip about an inch of wire, twist together tight at a hard angle, fold back on itself, tape tight as hell, shrink wrap. I have never had a wire job fail doing it that way.
I did not pull back the electrical tape on the other injector wires since there wasnt an issue with those. the miss is intermittent, so im not sure if pulling a plug wire will help anything at all. i DO think i need to go through my vacuum lines again. and i might need some new VSVs since one of them blew its guts(cotton ball looking material) out onto the calve cover. I feel like something is off there. i changed 2 lines last night and the idle got more stable, so im hoping that i just have something plugged in wrong.
also, there is is that rattling that makes it sound like a diesel at ilde. we have no clue whats causing that, but it SOUNDS like its coming from the bell housing area. maybe the metal shield?
also, there is is that rattling that makes it sound like a diesel at ilde. we have no clue whats causing that, but it SOUNDS like its coming from the bell housing area. maybe the metal shield?
Loose bolt on the torque converter to the flex plate will make an awful noise, usually on startup, which sounds like a rod bearing. I'd check this also.
When timing, did you make sure the engine was in diagnostic mode? I remember having problems getting a good connection when I was there trying to jump the fuel pump. Also, the valve lash seems to take practice too get perfect. I know you did it cold, but did you go with .008 and .012, or .007 and .011; I have always gone with the later, because .008 and .012 was never right. The only thing I can think of that make that rattle sound is your current exhaust. Remember that the 22r series motors will always have a slight diesel sound, which is something you get used too, but it is hard to tell in the vid. because of not muffler.
Last edited by dark_fairytales; Aug 3, 2017 at 02:55 PM.
Loose bolt on the torque converter to the flex plate will make an awful noise, usually on startup, which sounds like a rod bearing. I'd check this also.
YOU SHUT YOUR DIRTY MOUTH!!!!
Originally Posted by 92ehatch
Mine did that as well, mine was a loose valve tappet, i forgot to tighten it up.
but it sounded from up top.
i hope you get this nailed i wanna see the video of you driving it.
I do too. like i said, i hope its just vacuum lines routed wrong and then itll idle smooth.
Originally Posted by dark_fairytales
When timing, did you make sure the engine was in diagnostic mode? I remember having problems getting a good connection when I was there trying to jump the fuel pump. Also, the valve lash seems to take practice too get perfect. I know you did it cold, but did you go with .008 and .012, or .007 and .011; I have always gone with the later, because .008 and .012 was never right. The only thing I can think of that make that rattle sound is your current exhaust. Remember that the 22r series motors will always have a slight diesel sound, which is something you get used too, but it is hard to tell in the vid. because of not muffler.
yea. im gonna try to drive it a bit tonight after checking the trans fluid levels. if it doesnt bog down much or at all, i might take it to the exhaust shop and have one built before continuing. ive had 2 other people mention that the exhaust was too loud to know where the sound was coming from. as for the valve clearances, i didnt touch them, just checked. they were all at 7 and 11.
didnt get a whole lot done yesterday. messed around with the vacuum lines abit, but it didnt change anything. I also got the trans dipstick spaced out a little bit away from the O2 sensor with a few washers, removed the heat shield for the rear heater lines, and bent the heat shield that is right along the frame since they were touching the downpipe. It didnt fix the clack clack diesel noise, unfortunately. it still sounds like its coming from the passenger side only. the only other leak i have to take care of is a small leak from the turbo oil feed line, but couldnt get to it since i had been running the motor before hand and it was burning my hand being so close to the turbo and down pipe.
been thinking a lot on this. i think that the clacking sound might be from the A/C Brackets. i dont know 100% if all of the bolts are in. as for the miss, i dont remember the timing moving at all. youre supposed to warm it up and then set the base timing at 5* with the jumper in. but when i put the jumper in the timing didnt change. so, im wondering if the knock sensor is picking up the clacking noise and retarding it,
I had to fidget around with a paperclip jumper quite a bit to get mine to respond when setting the timing. Ultimately it did respond and i set it at 8* advanced. Keep trying. I wonder what mode it goes into with the knock sensor disconnected?
Kinda upset right now. Started out the night by getting the drivers wheel off and tightening the turbo oil line. I think that's cleared up, so no more leaks there. Got the water refilled in the radiator and got the oil topped off. Did a complete all-around of all lights, signals and electrics in general. Everything is good except for the front passenger turn signal. Need a new bulb.
next step was going to be checking the ATF since it did leak a bit out. So with the truck running, I had doomy put the truck in reverse with her foot firmly planted on the brake. Yea...the truck didn't like that. Engine started bucking real bad as soon as the RPMs dropped and as soon as she put it back into park, it died. Tried to start it a few times and it just sounded horrible. Like a deep metallic thunking noise. And then......the starter spun up but no engagement on the flywheel. Just a whirring noise.
so, either I munched the teeth off the bendix, the bendix isn't engaging, or I stripped teeth from the flywheel. Gonna wait for the motor to cool enough to pull the starter and have a look. If the starter is shot, I've got a brand new one ready to go in. If the flywheel is shot...its game over. I will have to tap out and rush to get the Honda registered and drivable(I hate that car).
Aug 3, 2017 | 02:27 AM
