Thanks Aaron

I knew Brain was out at KOH, but I placed my order a couple weeks before that and didn't get any updates. After I told them to cancel my order and charge my card back, the UPS man shows up today with the twin stick. So now I'm going to have to pay to ship it back and try to get a refund. It's really not a big deal, just frusterating.

Without having dual cases, the twin stick is a must. It gives you a lot more options. As for the T-case mount, I'm still going back and forth. I just realized this weekend that the stock auto mount is really tore up and about to break. It would be nice to have the extra strength of the HD mount, but my automatic transmission really sucks sometimes and can shake around when at a stop in gear.

I think I'll have to look through all my spares and see if I have a stock one in good shape. It just scares me to only have one stock mount (like you were saying). If I find a good mount I think it might be possible to weld some chain to it (like my motor mounts), that would still allow some movement but not enough to break the mount. As for right now I think that's the plan.

 

I spent the weekend installing the gear drive transfer case and adapter, I've been dreading it since day one but it was time to wrap it up. It went pretty much how I thought it would, issue's along the way but nothing too bad. I broke the transmission speed sensor in the process of removing it, so I have not been able to drive it yet (besides out of the shop and to a parking spot). After calling around only Toyota carrys it for $80.00, if anyone is thinking about doing this swap do yourself a favor and buy a new sensor before you start. I think that no matter what you do, you will break the old one.

The instructions that came with the adapter cover all the major points, but are nothing like Marlins 4.7 instructions. You have to do alot of thinking for yourself, I guess they figure that if your going to tear your transmission and stock T-case apart you kind of know what your doing to begin with.

Here are Inchworms instructions:
http://www.inchwormgear.com/info/Aut...structions.htm

I just noticed that the directions on the website cover a few differant area's that they did not cover in the directions that came with the adapter. I would print out the webpage version, along with the instructions that came with the kit.

If I was going to do this again, I think I would remove the transmission from the vehicle (especially if you don't have a lift). The vehicle tends to get in the way alot and your always getting covered in old ATF. I'm going to wait to give my final feelings about the swap until I drive it and see how it works, but right now I kind of wish I converted the thing to a manual transmission (not based on the kit, but I think that there is something wrong with the tranny ).

 

On to the pictures...

Stock auto t-case





T-case oil pan removed



T-case valve body removed



T-case cooler removed



Close up on the stock 4wd parking prawl system



Getting into the T-case

 

Removing the differant layers of the stock T-case





The pile building up









Open housing







Cutting the output

 

Broken speed sensor





Speed sensor port with O-ring still seized in place



Tranny oil pan removed

 

Then it was time to remove the valve body, I didn't take any pictures in the process because I was covered in ATF and had a friend who was helping with the valve body removal. It really helps to have someone give you a hand during this part. Remove all the bolts, while someone is holding the VB and SLOWLY lower it down. There will be three springs on the driver side, and one spring/plastic piece on the passenger side. Take your time and remember where all the valve body bolts go, I ended up making a enlarged copy of the valve body (Inchworms instructions have a small diagram) and placing the boltson the picture.

It took some time to figure out how all the new parking prawl pieces went together but it's pretty straight forward.

New parking pawl set-up



Back together (besides new filter)



Make sure you line up the shifter assy. correctly, there is a little piston in the VB that HAS to be lined up correctly. I didn't make sure that everything was correct, and had to take the pan back off.



Filter on, ready to go



ATF pan cleaned and ready to be installed

 

On the HD mounts, have you thought about replacing the polyurethane bushings with rubber?? That would stop A LOT of the vibration.

 

I'll have 2 stock mounts if you need one I was planning on throwing one in the tool box as a spare (just in case for me, it would probably end up on somebody else's truck that torn a stock mount )

I can throw one in a box and send it your way if you need it ASAP.

 

The bushing is an odd size. I'm pretty sure that no one offers it in stock rubber. Good idea though.

 

I just went out and looked at my two spares, they don't look too bad. I will need to take them to the shop and inspect them better but for now I think I'm set. Thanks for your offer though, if I do need one I'll let know know.

 

Back to the install

Transmission pan installed, along with new "tailhousing" and it's pan. Also the coupler is installed as well.

 

Next up was getting the t-case prepped. One of the shift rails was hitting the adapter, so it had to be cut down, the other shift rail was already cut from when I had dual cases.



I also had to clearance two spots on the t-case for bolt clearance





Then it was time to bolt up the adapter and twin stick



How much room there is for the upper bolt, this bolt makes installing the assembly in the truck a PITA

 

Before putting the t-case in the truck I installed the stock crossmember and mount. I endded up having to lower the transmission as much as possible for room. I will be building a new crossmember next weekend, this is just to hold everything for the time being.



And the broken mount

 

And here it is installed, it two different trys to get it in. The first time I could not get that top bolt started and the FIPG set up while in the process. I ended up having to take it back down, clean everything again and start over. After a bunch of thinking, I decided something had to be done about the bolt. I decided the best way to deal with it was to drill 1/2 of threads out of the hole, that way I could start the rest of the bolts and get the coupler lined up. I tested it on some of the old t-case parts and it seemed to work ok. The bolt still engages the threads, theres just not as many of them. It was the only thing that could be done without starting the whole project back over, tearing everything back apart and dropping the transmission out of the vehicle.

Anyway, here's the pictures of it installed. The length of everything is just about the same as a manual transmission with dual cases. I was able to use the rear driveshaft out of the green truck and it fits perfect (the green trucks rear axle was moved back an inch or two, this one is about stock). I am going to have a CV rear shaft made for it when I get time and I'll use this non-CV shaft as a spare.

Another note, if you wanted to run dual cases you would be at about the same length as a man. truck with tripple cases and the rear output would be in the rear horse coller crossmember (or close). Also the shifter would be inside (towards the rear) the center console. Just some thoughts for anyone thinking about it.

 

Shifter boot installed



Center console cut

 

I finally have 4wd! I modified my old crossmember and bolted in my old square front driveshaft out of the green truck.

I had to move the center section of the crossmember 1 1/2" forward because of the auto trans. I started by welding a section steel across the mounts to keep everything lined up.



Then it was time to cut it. I thought the 3/8" thinkness was going to be a huge pain but the sawzall made quick work of it.





Inch and a half differance



Welding it back together, I also had to trim the rear corner out for t-case clearance





And I had to trim the front of the skid plate for the transmission oil pan

 

I also added some more bracing, filled in the holes for the second transfer case bolts and added a drain plug for the second drain pan (that was the auto transfer case pan).

 

how is the uber-low gearing?

 

I decided to give the TG HD mount a shot. If I don't like it I'll replace it with a stock one, shouldn't take more than an hour to correct if needed. I did have to clearance the mount a bit to give it more room between the transfer case.



Fresh coat of paint, ready to be installed



Installed with front driveshaft

 

I took the truck out a couple days ago and played with it in 2 low, then I took it out today with the 4 wheel drive. The thing is super low and pretty much drives like it's on auto pilot. I have not been able to do any real wheeling, just a little playing around getting used to everything. Here are a few things I've noticed that people ask about the autos.

First, it has super low gearing with the single 4.7 case and the auto. I really don't think anything lower would be practical, although it would be nice to have a stock case for higher speed area's. Top speed in third gear is about 8 mph, or 11 mph if I have the RPM's high. I do have the option of using overdrive with the manual shifter but I would only feel comfortable using it on easy fire roads and stuff like that. In low first gear the thing just creeps along, you don't even have to hit the throttle (until you run into something, then just barely hit the gas and it starts climbing). It feels a lot lower than a 5 speed with dual 2.28 cases.

Next, people say you can't stop and that you have to shift into neutral to do so. This is not true you can stop with the brakes, in gear. The truck does try to fight it but you can come to a stop. It does create some extra vibration in the drivetrain but not bad, I would use the brakes to come to a stop then shift into neutral.

People also say that there is no compression braking going downhill, also not true. I found if I was on the throttle, even in a low gear the vehicle would out speed the how fast you should be going. But if I started down a hill without hitting the gas it just crept along, super slow without speeding up. I am going to need more time and wheeling trips before I can figure out all the little things.