Chef says "I doubt they are severed...." check them so you KNOW they are OK.

I have had a few gremlins related to these PITAs:
Never Ever Ever use these


I cannot tell you how many times they come loose, and stop working. I admit I have a few on my truck, but I have been removing them as I find them...PO stuff.

Just go over all the connections. Start by making sure you have power from the fuse block on the cig wire. Then check your ground, then I'd trace power and ground to all devices off that main power line. Use a test light or multimeter. Then you will know where the problem is.

 

I hear ya. And I didn't install them... Lol. Not that I'm some awesome electrician or anything, hahahahahahaha. Okay I can stop laughing so hard that I'm choking... Anyway, not that I'm so great, but I try to sell her everything. However, wouldn't I have to have power but the fuse block on the cigarette lighter pins if I have power to the radio? I will check anyway, I'm just asking because you are far more apt at the stuff.

 

Using these should be a hanging offense, j/k. They do cause alot of issues and suprised some havent caught fire when not used properly. Who invented them along with the Butthead Connectors? Wire nuts are okay for home use but I have seen them used in trucks before too, not good.

 

Yes Terry, however certain butt connectors are better to use in an automotive application then solder joints. I solder stuff, but it isn't really a good idea since the joint can become brittle from vibes over time and snap.

Chef,
check to make sure you have power on both legs of the cig fuse, then check each line from there.with the key 'on', remember our cig lighteres don't work without the key in the ACC or ON position. Wish I could be out there helping you. And yes you should have power to the fuse if you have power at the radio unless you have the radio on the constant 12v side which is your hazard fuse.

 

Hey man, I didn't get a chance to test that yet as I was just doing one thing after another today. However, I found something weird happened......

At one point, I turned on the key to test the radio and mClock came on dim Li for a second and then went away over a few seconds. Turning the key off and on again, I could not get it to do it again. But the bottom line is it did get power for a moment, so now I'm starting to think that I have a short somewhere. Son of a biscuit! Lol. I was so careful the plug everything back in and I even mark all the connectors with a fine point magic marker, took pictures of which direction they go over the support or under, etcetera. I will test that circuit tomorrow. Thanks again for your help man!

 

i have unfubared wiring issues on my truck where those were the culprit...
I hate those things with a passion.

some day I will pick up a few spools of wiring and rewire my entire truck

 

those quick taps are also very bad for cutting the main wire an leaving it to cause a short or flat break burning up the insulation an truck

 

I havnt been on in a while. The full video was cool!

i need a belt! haha, I love when everyone takes a few steps back and drink some beer, you can almost see the cogs turning.

So mechanically is it ready to go? just wiring?

 

Yeah like cyberhorn says can create plenty of troubles down the line.

 

Really? Toyota uses these in a lot of their factory alarm systems. I used them before and haven't had any issues. Usually it's only one or two max per vehicle. If your need more than that than I would look into soldering.
Still think those are better than most other clip on connectors I have used

 

I just wanted to add that before I pulled my harness and reinstalled it, the clock and incline meter and every other single thing in my system functioned perfectly. My alarm also never gave me any trouble and she uses a type of connector that I will show you it's a little different from those others. Maybe having the alarm remove right now could be a problem but other than that I don't know I'm not saying that they are not the problem, but I really think it is more likely something to do with how I plugged in the three prong connector. Or, something got partially saver and is only providing partial voltage , but not enough to keep the clock working or to light up the incline meter. It is like 4 plugs with all look the same and I believe two of them are somehow connected to the glove box light which is working. However, and that is one of those tiny bulbs? Right now I'm at a loss and I am pretty sure that I'm going to have to Paul half of my dash apart again. Luckily, I didn't fully install the passenger side vent that has to be removed in order to pull the dash. Unfortunately, during my rec the dash got mildly tweak, but I managed to form it back on a couple spots to where I could get it installed again. I guess my main concern is just where is the problem, even if I get it All torn down quickly. I will first test for voltage of the lighter terminal . But again, the fact that the radio is working perfectly seems pretty telling that it is likely a problem in the wiring itself.

 

I am doing a 22r to 22re conversion and just removed a Factory Alarm System. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52150443 I dont know if Toyota installed it but it something I did gripe about. It was a poor install. Toyota does use another poor crimp in its injector harness, tail lights, fuel harness, and main harness that is a very poor design as well.

I suggest just soldering but if going to use those blue crimps, wrap them with electrical tape and especially when using out side of the truck where water can get to them.

Mostly I see them on tail lights and stereos systems. I am an idiot when it comes to wiring in stereos but there are plenty of kits for those that are plug and play. I dont know about plugs for amplifiers and other similar things. There are ways to have very few crimps in your harness.

For tail lights use. Its PN# 43315.

 

I think alot of what everyone thinks are factory toyota alarm systems, are really dealer add-ons. Which is why you will see those splice connectors used and some other shotty wiring.

If you need to do any splicing or wiring try to use heat shrink when possible. If you have to use electrical tape, try to use self-fusing tape. It is more expensive, but works better and won't unravel from heat.

just my 2¢

 

I love this thread. So much easier to keep up.

I wonder if I should start a new one for my tear down?

 

Haha^^^ agreed. I can't keep up on the other thread.

 

Hey guys, on top of the clock not working, and incline meter not lighting up, it appears as if I have a voltage drain, even without the key in. ....

I started it up and charged up to 12.25 , then as I turned it off and took the key out I'm watching it drop nearly three tenths of a Volt over the last 30 minutes.

The only thing that I kept from this other rig was the back window wiring harness and taillights and so forth. Other than that everything else is my own.

I guess I'm going to disconnect the rear window and tail light harness and also the fuel pump side to those tail lights and see if the voltage drop stops. Otherwise it's somewhere in my dash I suppose. Really bummed....

 

dont be too bummed man its good your still in an working on it not down the road in the wilds an *blip* no juice its actually good that its happening in the shop

 

Unplug the battery on a full charge with the key out of the ignition. Listen for relays clicking on, or off when you unplug it. Electric windows run off a relay activated by the ignition/key, I made mine hot all the time, so I have to start my truck every couple days since those relays are always on. The back window is different, but I'd still check it. Is your battery drain due to a door being open and courtesy light or buzzer on? Simple stuff like that to look for.
You have a loose connection or something plugged in wrong. I know 'thanks captain obvious'.
But really, it's something simple. Most if my big problems have been small oversights. Don't sweat it, you'll get it.

 

I don't know about everyone else but I install both Toyota and aftermarket alarms. I have only found those blue splice connectors (pink is what Toyota uses) in Toyota alarm system.

Every dealership I have installed aftermarket alarms used t tap style connectors.

 

I had some interesting developments yesterday. I realized, not exactly sure why, that my incline meter light wiring was not effective... It just was only coming on when I open the glove box. I spoke with Terry about this, and while he's not exactly sure how that works, I'm starting to think that I got the connectors for the climate control and glove box reversed. The reason I say this is because the incline meter and climate control both work off the parking light circuit... The glove box is activated by a switched ground or whatever you call it, so that when you open the glove box a button is depressed, which allows a complete circuit which turns on the glove box light.... ??????? I already told the dash apart yesterday and put it back together, I left that glove box button laying on its side so that that little light is always on, whenever the lights are on. Until I can get my dash apart again, that will work, but I'm waiting for Terry to tell me if he can locate a couple things in a truck that he has apart right now.

I also tested and realize that I do have bolted to the clock wiring. I'm not sure if something within the harness is not connected, but everything else that is on the same circuit is working. And they are all working according to hell they are supposed to. Maybe the role cause somewhere in to become damaged or something of the sort. I will be finding out as soon as possible. I want to rule out any wiring that could be causing my draw. Also, I wondered if a conectar such as the glove box and climate control being reversed could cause a draw? The reason I ask is because one is constant hot and is only activated when the glove box is open which completes the ground... The other is ground by the switch when you turn on your parking lights. Anybody?

I still have that slow and creeping to a crawl within an hour or so voltage drain.... Just for the hell of it I'm going to switch batteries to my yellow Duralast gold, which you never gave me any problems, and was not in a rollover. Lol. I know it's not likely but I figured I should check to see just to rule out the battery even though its new.

I will finish pulling the fuses for all the circuits and test the battery and pull the battery to listen for relays as RBX suggested... I pulled the stop light circuit fuse, yesterday, as well as the dome and cigarette circuits fuses, one at a time, and the drain seemed to persist. Whatever it is it never seems to go below 11.88 volts. Unless of course I'm blasting some tunes or something in which case it will go a little lower.

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Edit!:

I don't want to be that guy and spread rumors, but I was just told that one of the coolest guys on here, Philbert, may have lost his life in an accident! ......

Terribly saddened and hoping so fervently that this is not true!