No way, you're VERY MUCH helping me to 'GET IT!', I'm serious, man!

I just can't understand how it's ok to use the relay block to plug my relay into, when the wires are only 14G and the wiring being suggested was "10G from joined light wires to relay".... wouldn't using 14G wires on block to connect to the 10G wire from the lights.....well, wouldn't it negate the whole purpose of using the 10G in the first place?

Also, I'm a lil confused on how the switch works, if both pins on it are going to power! ???? lol. I guess it doesn't need a ground? Or, the ground it needs is accomplished through the relay, just as it would be through the lights ground, if I ignored doing a relay all together?( DON'T WORRY, i wouldn't do that! lol).

 

I see your delima and line of thinking Mark, but Don't worry too much about it. I am suprised that the relay block has 14 gauge wire, that just sounds a little small, but I bet it will work just fine. Even the KC kit you where looking at was 14g correct? I agree that the relay blocks are the better way to go, but in this case I might run 10 gauge wire to a female spade and call it a day, use the shrink wrap like you said earlier, all the way to the top of the female spade and put some dielectric grease on the spade before you plug it in and it will be plenty water proof.

BTW, I finally got some pics of my accessory fuse block up in my thread.

 

see my pm, but for those who are also gonna question it, remember back when I said about keeping under 6ft? well the 14ga wire on that relay block is really short. the shorter the wire the more amps it can handle. Within reason anyway. For example, you wouldn't want to put 100a though a 3 inch piece of 10ga wire.

If your worried about it, you can always take the spade out of the relay block and re-wire it using one of these terminals:

 

Hey Rob, thanks for the input.... That's what I'm going to do(leave out the block). Mainly because, well, I could run the 10G wire from the joining of the light wires...and just join it with solder to the 14G coming out of the relay block... but that just seems it would defeat the purpose of using 10G wire in the first place. Besides, it's better to be sure of all the crimps, etc., as you and Brandon and Ian and others have said... If I wanted to wait, I could get some really good relay from Allied or otherwise, shipped to me. However, I DON'T wanna wait, lol..... I can't really wait past Sunday. So, that, in combination with the fact that it would probably be MUCH safer to just use the 10G for the primary power pullers..then 14 for the switch and ground, means I need to kinda custom do it! lol. If I have enough 10G for everything, that's what I'll do.... why not, eh?

BRANDON, thank you so much for all your help today, man! If you hadn't posted that pic of the fuse plug thingy, to run to my switch.....I'd not have known to look for it. Walked into Pep Boys and VOILA! They even had a mini fuse one. I'll post a pic later, have to clean up. Oh, and by the way.... I can't just pop out these female connectors from the relay block...... not without figuring out how to get them out. From the top, they're too narrow to come through, and from the back, it looks like the same...like something plastic in the way. I noticed the lil retainer pin that comes out from the bottom of the spade,....which I'm guessing is what is holding these in... Just can't see in there. I'm GOING TO TRY, why not, eh? ....get my new set of picks, etc., and try to pry that retainer pin back so I can pull them out.... that way I could use 10G wire for the whole thing, with new connectors!

PS> Sorry for not getting back sooner.... They came back with 4 people besides themselves, and apparently their guests didn't have time to wait 45 Minutes at 'Trumps' for a table..... So they came here for better food! hahaha. I love that stuff, the 'RUSH', then coming out with stuff that blows their mind, given the time they give me....but on the other hand, it has made me look flaky, like having to suddenly get off the phone or leave a chill session with a homie, etc. hahaha.

I did Jalapeno's, stuffed with Adobe Creamed Cheese and topped with Spicy Tangerine Shrimps, wrapped in uncured Applewood Bacon...... Just thought I'd throw it out there for anyone trying to think of an original recipe for Appetizers on Thanxgiving or otherwise.

Thanks again, Guys, and I'ma get on some of this tonight! First I'ma go check Rob's thread for that goody he bought himself! lol.

 

HEY! lol.... I got em out of the relay block, PIECE OF CAKE! lol. You only need a small pick, like an ice pick but smaller, ya know? Simply press upward on the bottom/flat side of the spade, from the top(where it plugs in the relay), and pull out the back while prying upward like I said.... POOF, right out. So, as long as 10G will fit in there with according spades, ...I will do so! Plus, this way, I can use the 5 Pin relay and not worry about it...there wont be a wire in there or spade, either. However, I will put a cap on it before I put it all together. Probably one of the waterproof spades, then shrink wrap over it, then call it a day! lol. Hope it will fit the 10G, or I'll just put it back together, return it and call it a day! Lol.

PS> A guy in the store told me not to worry about the fuse jack getting overloaded(where I'm plugging in for power in the fuse block for the switch....because, he said, it's only going to use Mili-amps of power, the way I'm hooking it up. All I'm doing with the switch is introducing current to that throw of the relay....causing it to allow power through to the lights from the battery. Does that make sense? or did I misremember everything he said? hahahaha

 

yup that is correct, it's not gonna use that much power.

 

"HEY!" Part 2: hahaha..... SHOULD NOT have jumped up and down so fast, I guess..... the block wont fit the 12G Spade Connectors, lol. I'm sure there are smaller spade ends that hold 10G wire, ...but then, I'm not even sure that the 10G would fit in there, either! hahaha. They just don't make em to fit deez tings mon! lol.

"HEY!" part 3; X! lol. Cool.... I guess I'll see how much I need of the 10G I have and be sure I have enough for the Power Pulling pins..... 30 & 87... then, if I have more, I'll use it for the others. We'll see. Either way, it's gonna get done! lol.

How are you, Brandon? Everything OKAY in the PA?

 

"Take a Break from EEEEEEKLECTRICAL" POST, hahahaa:

Look what the Fed Ex man delivered today.... NO, not my BJoints....NO, not my light covers....(they're coming UPS... HOPEFULLY 3 Days b4 projected, just like this did! )>>



Stoked! Mine are really bad, and one is even pink when lit up where it's supposed to be red.... REALLY LIGHT PINK! lol. A cop even pulled me over thinking it was a clear style, asking me, "why would you put only one on there? And just so you know, they're illegal in CA. Might wanna get new ones"... YES, Officer... I now have! LOL.

PS> 38$, shipped to my door, for both!

 

Well, I had a busy day of running back and forth inside, lol..... I put on my light covers......



Then, I took a few pics of some of the stuff I've obtained for the proper install of 100W+ Lights...........























How it will look(this is an extra bezel I had)



Now you can see where I'm putting it in my dash(just below lighter)



All wired up, heat shrunk all solder points and then wiring flex loom and heat shrink tape and 3M electrical tape(SO MUCH better than some cheaper tapes I've tried to use. Both grounds are mounted under those shiny stainless nuts, , with the positive wires coming out from the heat shrink and loom and then joining with solder to 10G wire, heading up over the bumper mount, then over the headlight and through the firewall....I then wired it round the back of the battery, through the tie-down arms, then behind the battery on the firewall side, then up behind the starter relay..... In the last picture, you can see the yellow wire and where I'm going to mount it is a pre-tapped bolt hole in the center top of that last picture......







Then, below, you can see, kinda, how I ran the loom out from the grommets in the back of the lights, then down and toward the upper support arms, tied to them and then over the bumper and through, down the back over to the grounds.....



I should be done, tomorrow, but I can't drive my truck until the covers come! Grrrr! lol. Maybe I'll just think up something, ...like some Hello Kitty Glass Static-Stickers? hahaha. I think you guys will be proud of me, when I show the video of how I did it all, taking my time and heat shrinking everything, then sealing the flex loom, clean as possible, soldered in the goodies.... And the Relay and switch wiring will be no different... CLEAN, if I can help it! lol.

OH YEAH... and I installed my No pressure point Rain-X Wipers today... DANG they're silent, compared to what I'm used to! lol. Plus, I'm using this Rain-X Windshield washer fluid... it's on sale at PepBoys and it REALLY cleans well and is supposed to repel rain, ya know? lol.

 

You guys sure spend a lot of money on these old vehicles. I have one interesting question for you, I am not trying to be smart or put you down, but do any of you think you get your money's worth out of the end product. I know I almost died when I found out how much mine cost me up to now. I couldn't afford to sell mine now. I admit that your vehicles are very nice to look at, and I like to see good work being done, sadly it gives me too many ideas at times.

Clive.

 

Well, with that attitude, why do anything? We dont buy these trucks and do to them what we do for resale... The car game is what it is... You wanna make money, you do cheap crap to flip it real quick... We mod our vehicles not because it'll look good on eBay or the craigslist add later on down the road but because the memories and experience we garner from it... For me it's about the memories shared, the cold beers drank, and the good times and laughter between friends that matter... Not money...

 

Hey Space, .....well said!

Dunna, all Space-Junk stated applies to me(other than the beer, hahaha...But if you ever visit, as a few have, I'll have a cold WHATEVER waiting for ya! lol). I have met 4 GREAT people from this site, all either willing to come over and help me for hours so that I could get it running....or in 2 cases, after I'd learned quite a bit(FROM SCRATCH, pretty much), I helped them put motors together and tried to chase down gremlins.... All, only because "I had one of these projects"..... But I hear ya.... it's a LOTTA cabbage for an older vehicle.... but these are not just any 'older vehicles', am I right? lol.

In my eyes, there's a bit more to it, as well. For one, I've NEVER purchased a new car.... NOTHING against it, and I admire guys and gals that work hard, decide carefully, and go from there, WITHIN THEIR MEANS! lol. However, I came to a realization with these trucks, after 6, that THEY LAST FOREVER, if you maintain them! The 5 before this one.... well, I either HAD to sell or, like the last one, it was totaled and I nearly died 3 times.... BUT I LIVED, which many experts felt had to have something to do with the 86 4Runner being so well built.... I have more pics somewhere... but I'm thinking I packed them and wont find them till after the holidays....but here's one that I had on a blog, of just what I survived...

32 Broken bones, including collar, fibs and tibs, scapula(OH LORD that hurt), fractured skull, all my ribs but one(including a full fracture that tore through my left lung), multiple lacerations, severed Rotator Cuff Outer muscle, and coma for a bit with 3 flatlines in the process. Not to mention... the top was off and I had just dropped off my children to their mother... ON FATHERS DAY! Latter stuff is another story....but the point is, by all opinions I got, "I SHOULD NOT HAVE SURVIVED!...and that truck saved your life".

This latter truck, from the wreck...it became a personal thing for me, not beyond sanity, lol, but I realized that they were safe, and at the same time, ...it had ran for 200,000 MILES without being rebuilt, etc. . Just maintenance and brakes, etc. (it had 349 on it!)

Flash forward to this one, my 87. I bought it because I had learned, over many crises, having to bail others out of them, or myself, to the point of BUSTED-BROKENESS,....that, if I just went through it, over time, and eventually rebuilt it, I could, literally, have it forever(forever for me while here, anyway, haha). For me, yes, I LOVE this truck, how it looks, etc. And, I love that I could drive it to New York, 3000+ miles, without a worry. I LOVE that it's easy to work on(within reason, lol). I LOVE how it drives, and again, yes, it's proverbially 'grown on me'... But I have to be practical at some point and say "It's just a 'thing'.. AS MUCH as I love it".. And if I had to sell it tomorrow to help out a loved one... or move up the ladder in my field.... IT'S GONE! Lol.

Sorry for the long answer. I know, many on this site can afford new cars and to mod them, then get another one like mine, and mod it! lol.... I can't, in good conscience, with all that is and might happen in the economy, go into ANY kind of debt, over a vehicle.... especially when, in reality, it cost me $1800.00 for the truck, I've put NOTHING into it up till June of this year, ...and now, I've put maybe 3 Grand into it, to nearly completely restore it....THAT'S LESS THAN A YEARS PAYMENTS, Homie! hahaa. Furthermore, I 'KNOW WHAT I HAVE', now, and for many years to come....If I just follow the 'recommended maintenance procedures'. Heck, even if I didn't, and only changed the oil, like last time....IT RAN 160k WITH THE SAME PLUGS, same O2, same EFI system, same sensors, same CAT, AND STILL passed smog every year for 8 years. I'm restoring a truck for less than 3G's, and I would bet dollars to donuts that it will out last MANY new cars and trucks that are coming off the line, this very weekend! lol.

THAT, to me, is 'why I spend money on these things'... And I understand, Dunna....it's a legitimate question you've asked. I can only give you a personal answer...and there it is.

PS> I'm working on a second car.... Know what it is? A CLEAN 89 Cressida with 100K miles for $1200.00!!!! LOL. Had one of those, too, before.... Japan Import with Racing Straight 6, Z-Series Motor.... I bought it with 89K miles..... sold it with 389K and NEVER touched it, other than a timing belt! Seems LOGICAL to me, Dunna, ...not wasteful, don't ya think?

 

Me want cressy!!!

 

Like I said I didn't mean to offend anyone, it is not my attitude towards people doing these things. take a look at my thread and you will see I am just as guilty of vehicle mods as you are, I was asked the same question in another forum and I got a bit hot under the collar as well at first, and just thought about it for a bit, saw I spent a whole lot of money on a vehicle I could never in a lifetime get back, and I am still spending money on it, and like you I have no regrets. It was just a thought. I bought my 1985 4 Runner for $4500.00 here in Australia 8 years ago, and I was startled to find that I have spent over $32,000.00 on it in mods and repairs, and I know what it is to have mates over to lend a hand. The comment was meant in a light hearted way, nothing serious. I have used the ideas from other members of other forums in my vehicle. Sorry if I have offend anyone.

Clive.

 

NO WAY did you offend me, Clive! As I said, "and that's a very legitimate question".... I was just trying to explain my Toyota Story(most people who love em seem to have one), ....as well as some character changes that happened to me over time, hahaha.

HOLY CRAPOLI! 32,000$ + 4500$??????? WOW, you weren't messing around, eh? lol. I'm going to have to check out your Build of the Century, M8.... very interested in what you put into it(I'm guessing expensive things like gears, lockers, OBA, Motor swap, .....Oh, I'll just go look for myself).

Nah man, I'm not offended... In fact, even if someone DID think it was stupid, ...I wouldn't be in that case, either... It's their right. lol.

Have a good night, Clive, ...and be safe down there!

PS> YOU BETTER have a couple thousand into an alarm, right? lol

 

Not sure why, but my lights wont come on with the switch. I'm going to try to run power directly to them, while they're grounded, again....but I KNOW I have everything wired up according to the diagrams, and EVERYTHING is heat shrunk, soldered, sealed up tight at the relay...the fuse isn't blowing..... ??????????????

Only thing I can think of is that I'm not getting power to that switch from the auxiliary panel. I plugged that fuse jack into the 7.5A Ignition Fuse.....car started right up, SO IT MUST be working to some level, eh?

I'm not using the 87A, but every other one is hooked up according to the diagram...

86 is Ground
87 is Lights Power wires
87A is blocked off
85 is the switch(did it like the diagram, ...and even tried switching them)
30 is power, straight from battery through 30A fuse/power wire jack

Lil discouraged, brudda's! GRRR, lol.

PS> I just went out and pulled out the relay from the cover, and when I pushed on the throw, making contact, the LIGHTS COME ON! WTH? lol..... You guys are sure that, with a 5 pin relay, the 87A isn't supposed to be the light power wires? I'm going to try a 4 pin, THIS SUCKS! lol....

 

Generic diagram but wiring is the same.
Turn the switch on and make sure you have power at 86, 30, and 87 with a DVOM or test light. If you have power then ensure you have a good ground to 85 (this is not the ground for the lights, the relay and lights must be grounded seperately). You must have constant battery power at 30 and switched power at 86. If you have power at 87 then its a bad harness to the lights or a bad ground at the lights or bad bulbs.

 

not quite sure what you mean by "...pulled out the relay from the cover, and when I pushed on the throw, making contact..."

a picture of your relay set-up might help.

time for troubleshooting:
-the lights work, so it's not a grounding or bulb issue
-if you connect the wire from the battery/fuse to the wire to the lights, do they come on?
-when you flip the switch in the cab, can you hear the relay click?
-have you tried a different relay and/or switch?

it'd be easier if i could see and follow your set-up, but if you say you have it hooked up exactly like the diagrams, then it's most likely a hardware issue

 

Hi there, I might be able to shed a bit of light here, Toyota has a earth switching system that can confuse some people, me included on many occasion. find the earth pole on high beam, when your lights are on one will always have power. run the earth of high beam to you 85 terminal then your power wire to terminal 86. power from your alternator to terminal 30, and terminals 87 and 87a are for each of your light, or item being used. In some places only one terminal will be used. I think from memory the red wire with a green trace is the earth you are looking for, this will also allow your lights to go out when you switch down to low beam. This is how it is done from Australian diagrams, eg on mine.

Clive.

 

good post, in short it's also called a switched ground system verses the more common switched power.

But he is working on fog lights and not his headlights.