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ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread

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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 04:33 AM
  #841  
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good to see that you got everything you need. don't forget to feed us pictures
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 04:55 AM
  #842  
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where did you get those relay sockets? I need to get some for mine. getting tired of my high beam spade plug falling off my relay. electrical tape only held it for so long. lol.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 05:20 AM
  #843  
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i got mine off of amazon. 25 bucks for 10 relays and harnesses.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 05:26 AM
  #844  
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I have wanted for a while now, to redo my whole fuse box under the hood, but dang those Painless fuse boxes are freakin expensive. lol.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 06:10 AM
  #845  
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From: Bryan Tx,
Originally Posted by irab88
i got mine off of amazon. 25 bucks for 10 relays and harnesses.
Thats good to know.

Looks like you have everything covered Mark, good luck getting them wired up.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 06:12 AM
  #846  
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
I have wanted for a while now, to redo my whole fuse box under the hood, but dang those Painless fuse boxes are freakin expensive. lol.
just go to the pick-n-pull. i'm sure you can find a fuse box there (even if it ain't for a yota)
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 06:18 AM
  #847  
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
Originally Posted by irab88
just go to the pick-n-pull. i'm sure you can find a fuse box there (even if it ain't for a yota)
haha I thought of that too.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 06:21 AM
  #848  
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From: Bryan Tx,
I just picked up an awesome fuse block from e-bay for $25, I'll try to snap a pic of it and post back this afternoon
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 08:34 AM
  #849  
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Xxxtreme,

I thought you said, "the existing wires from the lights are fine, but after you join them together, it should be 10G wire from the joining to the relay and all other wires throughout going to and from the relay, to the switch, should also be 10G wire".... If that's the case, I can't use that relay block, because all the wires coming out of the bottom of it are 14g.... Also, as you can see the fuse holder is 12G wire coming out of each side.

I get that I should use a 30A fuse so that it will blow before the 40A relay, but are you saying I need 10G wire for EVERYTHING, throughout the system?

Rob, X, Ian, thanks again for all your input.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 08:53 AM
  #850  
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Xxxtreme,

I thought you said, "the existing wires from the lights are fine, but after you join them together, it should be 10G wire from the joining to the relay and all other wires throughout going to and from the relay, to the switch, should also be 10G wire".... If that's the case, I can't use that relay block, because all the wires coming out of the bottom of it are 14g.... Also, as you can see the fuse holder is 12G wire coming out of each side.

I get that I should use a 30A fuse so that it will blow before the 40A relay, but are you saying I need 10G wire for EVERYTHING, throughout the system?

Rob, X, Ian, thanks again for all your input.
everything except the individual lights and switch

ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread-circuit3.png

the dark red needs to be 10, the red and black on the lights 14, and the switch just skinny (18 or heavier)
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 08:58 AM
  #851  
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Thanks, Ian! Ok, so what about the question on the grounding of the lights themselves? I only have one wire coming out of the hole in the back of the light. I'm not sure if there were ever 2... maybe you might know? It seems like the mounting bolt, itself, is the ground.

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Nov 18, 2010 at 08:59 AM.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 09:08 AM
  #852  
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12ga wire is good for 20amp when kept under 6.6 ft. you should be good with just 2 100W lights on that circuit. even 1 more 100W light would put you at roughly 25amp. But that 40amp fuse is too big for that 12ga wire. a 20amp fuse will work.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 09:17 AM
  #853  
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Thanks, Ian! Ok, so what about the question on the grounding of the lights themselves? I only have one wire coming out of the hole in the back of the light. I'm not sure if there were ever 2... maybe you might know? It seems like the mounting bolt, itself, is the ground.
a pic might help, but yeah, i think the mounting bolt provides ground
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 09:43 AM
  #854  
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Hey B-Loc, Ian, thanks guys!

Yeah, ...Ian, need batteries for the camera. But, it's just like I said, ....just like all lights, it has a lil rubber boot on the back/bottom where the wire/wires come out.... and mine only has one wire coming out. And, when I hooked the ground to the mounting bolt to test it, voila, it worked without any sparking, etc. Just lit up like daylight.

So, when I run each wire from the lights(have to add some wire, they're only 6" or so, coming out of each light).... can I run it for about 3feet on the further light from the firewall, and 1.5feet from the closer light, until I hook up a 10G wire? Or, do I need to join those two wires asap and then run the 10G(I have plenty) from just behind the grill on through to the fuse, etc.?

The fuse housing wiring is 12G, and I have another, 30A glass fuse laying out in the garage somewhere.... would that be ok, X? Or do I need to drop down to 20A for the fuse?(would it be safer, I mean). I can get a 30A relay and just run 12G to it, throughout, with a 20A fuse, if you say that's the safest bet, X.

Thanks guys, I think I have everything I need..... I just don't have an indicator light, hahaha...Well, I actually have one in the garage, for an old alarm...I guess I could hook that up(it's a red LED....and I have a hole for it already in my dash pop out plastic thingymadoer above the stereo, lol).
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 09:48 AM
  #855  
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you can run that 14ga wire from both lights and merge it right into a spade connector at the relay itself. That's what I would do. Less connections to worry about. would probably have to use a yellow connector, not sure if the 2 14ga's will fit into a blue one, and will definitely not fit into a red one.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 10:24 AM
  #856  
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Hey B-Loc, Ian, thanks guys!

Yeah, ...Ian, need batteries for the camera. But, it's just like I said, ....just like all lights, it has a lil rubber boot on the back/bottom where the wire/wires come out.... and mine only has one wire coming out. And, when I hooked the ground to the mounting bolt to test it, voila, it worked without any sparking, etc. Just lit up like daylight. ...
then there ya go. sweet

Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
...So, when I run each wire from the lights(have to add some wire, they're only 6" or so, coming out of each light).... can I run it for about 3feet on the further light from the firewall, and 1.5feet from the closer light, until I hook up a 10G wire? Or, do I need to join those two wires asap and then run the 10G(I have plenty) from just behind the grill on through to the fuse, etc.?...
nope, only 10 when they join. 14 for a single light, as long as it's less than 6 feet (i think 6). you should be fine, though

Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
...The fuse housing wiring is 12G, and I have another, 30A glass fuse laying out in the garage somewhere.... would that be ok, X? Or do I need to drop down to 20A for the fuse?(would it be safer, I mean). I can get a 30A relay and just run 12G to it, throughout, with a 20A fuse, if you say that's the safest bet, X...
personally, i think you could get away with 20 amps, but if you want to go higher, get a fuse holder with larger wire

Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
...Thanks guys, I think I have everything I need..... I just don't have an indicator light, hahaha...Well, I actually have one in the garage, for an old alarm...I guess I could hook that up(it's a red LED....and I have a hole for it already in my dash pop out plastic thingymadoer above the stereo, lol).
that'd work. just make sure to connect the do-dad to the whachyamacallit. if you don't, you could ruin your whosamajiggy

Last edited by irab88; Nov 18, 2010 at 10:26 AM.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 10:26 AM
  #857  
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
you can run that 14ga wire from both lights and merge it right into a spade connector at the relay itself. That's what I would do. Less connections to worry about. would probably have to use a yellow connector, not sure if the 2 14ga's will fit into a blue one, and will definitely not fit into a red one.
i think yellow is the way to go. i had the same problem on my reverse lights. just be sure to crimp firmly
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 11:08 AM
  #858  
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X, I thought you said "join the lights wires and run 10G or at least 12G from there to the relay"... and Ian said, "Run 10G or at least 12G from the joining of the lights to relay, and from the fuse to relay".... WTHeck? hahaha.

I'll just join the wires with solder to a 10G wire and run that right to the relay, 10G-female, heat shrink connector into the relay..... Then, 10G wire for the fuse connection as well, and 30A fuse instead of 40A. I have the fuse in my hand and I'm gonna use the 12G wired fuse holder and solder that to the 10G or 12G wire as well. I'll use the 12G for the switch as well, that way I'm not pushing it anywhere with the 14G. And, I'll not be using the relay block w/wiring already attached. I'm just gonna use waterproof female connectors big enough for 12G and 10G wiring where needed. I will solder everything, instead of connectors, except for where they plug into the relay and switch...

Sound good?
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 11:14 AM
  #859  
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From: Bryan Tx,
Sounds good to me Chef, Lets see so pics of those lights wired up and burning holes threw a wall! lol
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 11:14 AM
  #860  
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PS> I ordered my taillight replacement covers... mine are both cracked and pink when lit, hahaha.

I also ordered the 8" KC Covers, Black with white writing..... It's the smooth writing so I can paint the white letters Red to match the truck! lol.

I also ordered my OEM lower Ball Joints from Toyotapartsbarn or zone or something, lol... and I should also be hearing from my buddy on the IFS work date, very soon. He's wrapping up by the end of November(my Birfday is the 28th! , so that'll be a cool present to myself! hahaha). We're gonna put it on the rack and GO TO TOWN! He's really good with this stuff so I know we can do it QUICK, granting I soak everything well first. I'll have the option of using my buddy's A-arms(he's going long travel, custom made)... so when he takes them out, I can just paint them and have the old bushings pressed out and put in new ones from Japan for 100$ total for all 4 bushings...(wouldn't that be advisable, considering my bushings have 23 Years on em already?) Then, we'll shave em down for the BJ spacers, install the new Mega Travel BJ's on top and the new OEM Lower Ball Joints, newly Rebuilt Fox 2.0 Shocks and I might be doing that heim end's thingamadoohickyjobber like YotaRob, too! CAN'T WAIT to put this Suspension thing to rest, get her aligned and just WHEEL THE FREAKY DEAKY THING! LOL
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