wow seeing the door lights mark people will avoid ya thinking their heading for a car nose on! liking the rear light

mark just a thought perhaps the diode is in upside down? or the connection to the light is on the wrong side of it?

i do hope your dad an mom get better quit high school to take care of my mom...

 

Agree, Mark. My dad had a stroke when he was 70 and my mom pampered him. Five years later, my mom was diagnosed with terminal cancer (whose symptoms she was too busy to have checked because she was caring for my dad), and passed away in a few months. My dad outlived her for another 5 years.

Suggest you check if you're getting ground to "door" terminal on fixture here:


Do voltage check on the "door" terminal
Open tailgate.
On Volts DC setting.
Have positive probe at steady +12V, negative at "door"
You should read +12V.
Close tailgate. You should get 0V

Or do resistance check.
Switch in OFF position.
One probe to chassis ground (white wires with black stripe at M6 bolt near rollbar vertical)
Other probe to "door terminal"
With tailgate close, you should get open.
With tailgate open, you should get closed

 

Far as the stroke, it doesn't seem he's had one, (at least that would be of the magnitude to explain the symptoms), although he's had multiple TIA's over the last several years, since his initial major stoke, 2003. "No Alarming Acute Cranial Bleeds"....So says the CAT, anyhow. NO brakes, either.. but, SOMETHING was up with that pain when trying to move his legs.

PM'ing ya, Paul... I just have to protect myself from... well, let's just leave it at that, lol...THE NET DON'T ERASE, and it's open to all kinds of 'convenient misinterpretation', ya know?

Hahahaha... yeah, mood lighting, .. I read ya, lol. I'm going to have a red light that I can run solo, in the "Deck Lamp" fixture... I'm TRYING to decide if I want it more toward center, or even have dual of those, one in each rear seat area panel pockets... When the seats are folded down, POOF, ... it's light a mild lil red light district back there, hahaha... Jk, actually more just for night vision... Plus, to let the back seat passengers have light that's 'enough' but not enough to mess with my night vision.... JUST WOW, so hard for me to hack up those pockets.... They're PRISTINE ... ya know? But REALLY seems like the best place for the lights. Plus, when camping, they would be perfect there. Just a thought... I'm so overwhelmed with stuff right now, ... last thing on my mind is 'rushing it'........ YET, I WOULD like to sew it up before heading to AZ... still not sure if we'll be taking the 4Runner or not .

I DID fight it for a while, Nick... no doubt. BUT, ........ best reasonably priced mod I've done in a while. The panels stuff will be nice as well.. I can mount things, like tool brackets, etc., to the panels... they're 1/2", ya know? lol. I don't really WANT my 6x9's in the panels... but after much thinking on it... and since they'll be easily removable, ... I will likely go for it on that one, too. (between the roll bars and sturdily encased?) To be honest, again? I DO like the softer lighting of the factory dome a bit more... as it's softer on the eyes in ways... BUT, again, no substitute for being able to see! lol. ESPECIALLY, again, 'coming up on 44 and with my eyes starting to, well.. not fail, ...just get a lil picky, lol. Still have pretty good sight.. BUT, EVERYONE, as we age, loses their 'excellent' night vision... which is a problem when trying to sort things out, which CAN happen, even on the road or in the middle of nowhere. I have MANY Other portable lights.. Including Florescent, LED, Kripton, etc. But c'mon, to have the whole rig lit up, WHEN needed? (then add a 220 Lumen Engine bay light? YEP, coming soon)... SICK! lol. Bottom line? GO FOR IT.. Don't like it? REMOVE EM!

Thanks on the lighting.. And also on the diode idea. I put the cathode toward the connector.. Then humped the wire off that green wire before the diode... Doesn't it look right in the pics?(NOT being sarcastic... Just asking, honest ) Thanks on the well wish'n, sir!

Hey Buddy.. just a first heads up... The pic up there? That's the 2nd Gen Panel lights-to be, lol... BUT, if I can't even get the dome to work right... then I'm already limping, lol....

Today, I took he multi meter on 20V setting... Put the positive pin to the white wire(the Dome 12V wire).... Put the negative pin from the mm on the wire coming from the door.... With the door open... 12V... Which means the "DOOR" wire is acting as a ground? I'm so freaking confused again, man! lol. I think I can say I have the ground right on the dome light itself(wired to the wiper motor mounting bracket bolt)... Because the dome light comes on, when in "ON" position. I went by Bryan89's pics on the wiring... as to which is door and on. Then I ran from the tailgate, before that lock detection switch, putting the "DOOR" wire before the diode and the Cathode right behind that, ... on the other side, the anode side of the diode, going toward the other switch.

Another thing I thought might be pertinent...

* When I turn on the key with the window all the way down/door unlocked... the "DOOR OPEN" light DOES still activate. As the window goes up... the door lock drops down into place and the light goes out. If i'd wired that diode backward... wouldn't that 'completed circuit' full of safety switches be interrupted, ... thus, making the 'DOOR OPEN' light and such non-operational????? I guess, since the "other switch" that we're jumping between, comes before the Lock Detection Switch, that wouldn't stop the "DOOR OPEN" portion of the safety features to be interrupted....right?(IOW, it breaks off from the loom coming into the tailgate... THEN the wiring heads on to the other switch that Bryan89 was explaining the diode and wire have to go BEFORE, make sense?) BUT, ... Bryan89's doesn't come on until the handle is lifted and the door is un'LATCHED'... which it obviously has to be unlocked for. He didn't want it to stay on with the door then shut, before manually locking the window or turning either switch to start the window up and thus LOCK the door. Maybe I heated the diode up too much with the soldering iron? I will gladly pull the tailgate panel off again... I clearly will likely have to... BUT, I wanna know what I'm testing, exactly, first, ya know? Thanks for your help, RAD... please don't stop it coming, ok? hehehe.

 

Hey RAD, .... first, I want to say THANKS, AGAIN, for all the help you've been giving me, helping me to 'absorb and become learned' in the field of electronics(at least the basics, lol)... Second, I apologize for seeming to skim over the other stuff's in the message regarding 'testing'... The last couple days have been a.... well, let's just say I've been in a TOTAL DAZE! lol. ..........

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooo, ......

Can we start over here, with me explaining what I did, exactly, before I tear it open?

Maybe you could tell me, from there, what I should test first, and maybe details like "hack into the wire BEFORE the switch and run a jumper to....." etc., maybe? I don't know, you'll tell me what you think. haha.

************************************************** ****************

1. Ran a constant 12V from the Dome Circuit to the rear area, behind the jack(ran it along the loom, wrapping it as I went, then zip tied it for now, as I remember feeling that "I might have to jump into this stuff... let's not TOTALLY seal it up just yet" kinda feeling, lol.

2. From the rear area, behind the jack... I joined the overhead dome lights 'constant 12v' designated wire to that one, wrapped it around it.

3. I then 'ADDED' 2 more wires OFF of that 'Constant 12v' wire from the dome circuit..... for a total of 3 that I'll be using. (1 overhead and 2 panel lights, all "DOOR/OFF/ON" capable.).

4. I ground the 'overhead dome light' ground wire to the 'wiper motor mounting bracket bolt'(THE BOLT above the connector in the pic is what I used for ground... I put a bolt through and put a hoop on it under a nut... then ran that hoop to a quick disconnect that then is wired to another hoop around that brass colored wiper motor mounting bracket bolt)... And it's working, or I wouldn't even have ON, right?




5. I ran the 2nd wire coming from the 'overhead dome light' connector, which is supposed to be 'door' designated, down the shell hollow, with the 12V dedicated connector pin wire, to a "Spare 2 wire Connector" I had from a 3rd Brake S10 Light.... The connector is VERY solid and the pins are held in the traditional way.... and on top of that, they're reinforced/held in by a 'clip' that keeps the wires from backing out of the connector housing, even if the male or female spade connections come loose from the connector housing... Does that make sense so far?)



6. The wiring feeding the "DOOR" circuit; I spliced into the Green/Red wire before the door lock detection switch connector. In the splice, I added a 3A diode, placing the Cathode(striped end) toward the door lock detection switch. Before the Diode, on the cathode side, I placed the "DOOR" wire, soldered everything in, heat shrank it all up tight, then ran the "DOOR" wire around and the loom that's fed in through the tailgate grommet, up into the panel behind the jack mounting bracket... And then connected it to the "DOOR" wire from the 'overhead dome light'.





The "DOOR" wire from the tailgate goes to the black wire next to the yellow one in the pic, below... And the yellow to the "ON".... Both of those on the "black and white" wire side connect at the dome light itself, in the very first pic(The solid black wire is 'door' and the black with white is 'on'... And as I said, it's 'ON' when I flip it to 'ON', lol)....



7. At the junction of the "DOOR" wire and wire from the tailgate, I added two more wires, also meant to feed the two panel "DOOR/OFF/ON" lights I'll be adding.



*** The Overhead light comes on when I flip the switch on it to "ON"..... It goes off when flipping switch to "OFF" ...... BUT, it does not come on when I open the tailgate.

*** When I took my multi-meter to the "ON" and "DOOR" wires, placing the "RED/POSITIVE" lead on the 'Constant 12V' wire... and placing the "BLACK/NEGATIVE" on the Door.... the Meter read 12.25V, steady. OBVIOUSLY this means that the "DOOR" wire coming from the tailgate is acting as a ground, right? But is that right? Should it do that? (Please just bear with me and give me a quick refresher course? I'm really trying, I swear And, my head is coming out of "spaghtetti soup mode", quickly )

I just wanna start fresh with the instructions I'm given... And track down the problem to the 'PO'(point of origin, not the Previous Owner, don't worry... I'm not THAT crazy, ehehe... I know it was ME, or something's defective, ...and it's NOT the PO's fault, )

LEMME HAVE IT, ............ please? hahaha.

 

Sure, Mark. Need time to digest the description - LOL! I'm just the graphic type of person; when given directions verbally, I can only remember the first two turns. I gotta look at the map
Text me tomorrow? Sched's flexible from 1100 hours on up.

 

My guess is that, either;

1. My problem is with the door lock detection switch itself...

2. The diode

3. The wiring went wrong?

 

Hey RAD, thanks man! BTW, I added a bunch of pics since you were probably reading it.. And I'll add video and more pics, tomorrow, after VOTING, OF COURSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (I mean, ... I'll add pics and video of more of what I've done.)

 

I SCREWED UP, INITIALLY! ..............

When I ran the overhead dome light wiring down the shell's hollow... etc. I SCREWED UP and put 12V to the DOOR and the "DOOR" wiring from the tailgate to the "ON" on the dome light....... This IMMEDIATELY blew the fuse... I replaced it, disconnected the battery, then cut the black and yellow wires and reversed them....... Plugged the 3rd brake light connector I used back in and VOILA, it worked on "ON".. but never did work "DOOR". Is it possible that by putting 12V from the dome circuit directly to the 'DOOR' wiring, initially, that I might have fried the door lock detection switch? Or Diode? The fuse blew instantly, so it's not like it was getting 12V for more than a microsecond... So I doubt I melted anything with heat, lol.. BUT, I need to know if that would have fried any components in the tailgate?

Sorry guys... I TOLD YA, ...my brain has been completely on meltdown the last few days... I'm under TREMENDOUS pressure and load and I just plain forgot that I had that hiccup!

*******************************

Here is bryan89's layout of how the wiring goes... And HE IS 100% RIGHT! .... but, .... I did the black and white stripe wire(12v constant) to the door wire, and solid black wire to the "12V Dome Circuit Jumped Wire"..... BACKWARD at the 3rd Brake Connector....... here's Bryan89's picture...



Here's connector I used(reposting the pic).... I have the white wire from the overhead dome light connector coming off the "DOOR" one and running to the 'white wiring' I used from the 12V Dome Circuit Jumper.... In the pic, you can see the yellow wire is just changing after the connector... The yellow is to the white one and the black to black still...



Once I replaced the Dome Fuse in the kick panel, I simply CUT the yellow and black wire and turned them around so that the tailgate wiring I had coming up out of the tailgate now ran to the 'DOOR' pin and the 12V constant went to "12V constant" in his pic.... I hope that makes sense. I did this instead of undoing all the soldering I'd done... And besides, NONE of the other lights are hooked up yet... so having no where else to go, the charge grounded out and blew the fuse.... And HOPEFULLY not my 'door lock detection switch' as well..... Because 12V DID GO through that wire into the tailgate, before the Negative side of the Diode... Since it can't go backward through the diode... I guess it went straight to the door lock detection switch, which shorted the dome fuse.... (WHY? is what I'm asking) I GET that I crossed the wires... BUT, the Tailgate wire is a wire that DOES flow 12V to the Overhead dome light I've added, right??????? So why did it blow the fuse right away, that's what I'm asking. I know I sound dumb right now... but trust me, I AM! lol. (reminding myself of the Simpsons episode where Homer had a Crayon lodged in his brain... He had it removed and became SUPER intelligent... Didn't like what became of his life as a genius... so he had them put the crayon back.... At the very end... Lisa said, "I missed you, Dad"... Homer said, "Me too! Hahahahahah.... hahahahaha... Wait... Why I laugh?" hahahahhahaha. THAT'S ME! ... I will look for the crayon tomorrow.. until then, I've done enough to confuse everyone... I'm sorry guys )

 

as you have to kinda dig into it a bit see if your meeter has a diode test see if its blown
then check the door detection switch on continuity open gate it should beep/chirp then close the latch with whatever you have like you closed the gate it should lose continuity

 

Dude, Dragon, ... THANK YOU, man! That was very kind of ya... I appreciate it, big time!

BUT, ....first, I have to say, now that I've stopped laughing... ME VIDA LOCA! ..... "IT'S ALIVEEEEEEEE!" hahaha... Dudes, Dudettes... I gotta say... and I think you'll see what I mean when I show you what happened... I almost felt like this was a 'lil help from above'! hahaha. ...In one of the videos I did, I'm testing things, when suddenly, over half way into the of testing, trying out the 2nd Gen Rear Dome Lights I'm adding to the panels..... 'THE OVERHEAD LIGHT WAS GOING ON AND OFF WHEN I SHUT THE GATE.... and I DIDN'T EVEN REALIZE IT! hahahaha ... I'm literally cracking up again, right now! lol.. SOMETHING HAPPENED, when running the wiring from the 3 wire connector on the 2nd Gen Rear domes, to the added circuits I set up already for when I put in the panels with lights.... that maybe suddenly 'completed the circuit' that I had tripped when blowing the fuse? I DON'T KNOW... it's totally odd, guys/gals... I just don't get it. BUT, it's working, 100% of the time. I opened and closed it 40 times making sure it wasn't a fluke.... Tinkered with the wiring unions of 3-into-1 for both the 12V from dome circuit wiring and tailgate wiring.... It WILL NOT stop working now! hahahahaha... You'll see in the video......... Pretty funny.... but a LIL troubling is 'I DON'T KNOW WHAT HAPPENED!!!' hehehe.......

 

OK, .... See post above^^ .... and here's the video... NOTICE how the overhead keeps going on after that FIRST TOUCH to the Door Lock Detection Switch Wiring add on... And I DON'T EVEN NOTICE IT RIGHT AWAY! hahha....

 

Hah! That's great. Good... work?? I know this is going to leave your head spinning for a little while.

 

Hahaha.... Hey Ocell.... Just chuckled again over this. BUT, >>>>>>>>>

Spoke with RAD just now, over the phone.... And I think his assessment is probably right.......

"My guess is that the Overhead 2nd Gen 4Runner dome light that you've added to the wiper motor cover?..... It just coincidentally broke through some corrosion on the 'On/Off/Door' switch of the light, itself, and began working as you were flipping it that last couple times"............

I think he's right. BUT, I can't know for sure.... Because, as I told him, "The SECOND I touched the wiring from the lights I'll be adding to the panel to the added dome circuit wire and door lock detection wire/running the 3rd wire on it to ground... IT CAME ON in the video but I didn't even notice." ......... If you watch it closely, you can see how when I'm tinkering with the wiring, at some point(I think it came on the first time overhead around 1min. 17sec..... When I was messing with the Door Lock Detection Wiring that I added)

ANYWAYYYYYYYY, ... it's working, flawlessly now... So I'll RUN IT! How's that? hehehe.

 

Magic Chef!

 

"POOOOOOOOOOF!......... Wait, ..... why are my problems still all here? ... Hab said I was 'Magic'! " hahaha...

Hey sis, how ya doing? Hope the family is well.

************************************************** *****

So, right now I'm VERY overwhelmed with dealing with insurance paperwork and work and admission papers.... And MEDICAL(OMGOSHHHHHHHHH!) .... and I mean COMPLETELY running like crazy the last 18 hours for this stuff.

Anyway..... , I'm kinda stuck.... far as working on my truck, etc. But I WANT TO, trust me! lol. I have everything to finish the other panel insulation/deadening, everything for the lighting, everything for the carpeting of the panels and speaker installs...... Everything but time! lol. NOT whining.... , it is what it is... Just sux a lil knowing I'm prepared and yet can't execute the plan. haha.

Quickly it will just be posting up as I go... and likely in the next couple days I'll have a free day and just knock it all out(and TRY to get pics and video as much as I can)... It just seems like every time I try to document, thoroughly, a project I think people would like to follow in detail.... I HAVE TO END UP RUSHING IT or my camera breaks or ... what theeeeeeee? hahaa. DANGIT MURPHY..... LEAVE ME ALONE, MAN! I've paid up for a few people this year, ...just chillax! hahaha.

**************************************************

THANK YOU, BRYAN89, again! SICK Idea, and it's come in handy 3 times in 24 hours already! Can't wait to get the other 2 in and the Orignal OEM Deck Lamp with "RED LED" factor! <<< (Some mood lighting, like Paul mentioned! haha)

You too, RAD... you're a very cool dude... Helpful as I could ever ask!

Thanks everyone, honest, for just helping out and hanging out as well.. It makes my day to share my journey, not just with the rig... of course not... Just in general.. And YES, the 'helping stuff' is great though! LOL. Feels good to help other people with stuff you all have shown me.. or just ideas I've come up with too.. LOVE that. At least people are FISHING FOR THINGS TO DO, RIGHT? Gives me hope in "Human Creativity and Initiative"... and of course, "the desire to be FRUGAL and then get the satisfaction of DIY'n it, saving a few THOUSAND dollars...then rollin/using whatever it is, when finished, am I right?

 

Just got caught up on your build. I had to do the army thing and that always get me my schedule all out of whack. Sorry to hear of your stepdad. Got you in thoughts and prayers.

That rear dome light is bright and looks like it gave you a run for your money but sounds like you got it whipped. Great job. Something I will eventually do when everything else gets done. That would be very handy back there. Will have to go thru your thread and find all of the upgrades you have done one of these days.

RAD...Sorry it took so long to get back on the paint question. Most paint would be considered laquer based but that is a wide description. I think oil based is mostly for home use and isnt for automotive. Now they got water based coming on the scene. I was talking to an old timer and he told me they had synthetic enamel in the old days. I am not sure when they went to acylic enamel but it is on 70s and 80s cars.

 

We had a 1940's Magic Chef oven. Thing was always trying to blow us up but it never failed in providing a hot meal, always got the job done. You will too. Like that old stove, you may have to wait for the air to clear before you can re-light the pilot, but it WILL clear and that dinner bell will get rung.




GOOD MORNING CHEF!!!

 

Prayers for ya brother.

 

buenos dios mark busy morning already

 

I KNOW you can relate to getting the runaround from 'Gremlins', right? haha... Yeah... BUT, the thing is... it wasn't like I was out there for DAYS trying to fix it... I was, more so, however, ... spending lots of time thinking out what I might have done wrong... ONCE AGAIN, ... "practical application" wins the day! ..... I keep thinking how you've had to FIND ways to make MUCH more difficult things happen, working with 'WHATEVER YOU HAVE'..... And I've pretty much got all new stuff or LIKE new parts in here, etc... So I CAN NOT complain/should not I should say... obviously I CAN hahahaha.

Thanks, Terry... And YES, you WILL find it totally useful... And actually, if you just wanna call me up while you're out there with those few supplies... I could walk you through it in under an hour(once you have the light mounted to the wiper motor cover, etc., of course... NOT including that really.)... It's really cake... BUT, LIL tight on the adding the diode and such where Bryan89 suggests...... BUT TOTALLY worth it/great idea for placement location.

This mod TOTALLY saved my rump today, as I was having to do a quick measurement on some gear that I'm using to do a gig coming up.... COULD NOT have seen as well without it, and was SICK not having to hold a light, etc. (some 1.25 specs helped too! hahaha)... I CAN see fairly well... but counting out metric stuff's? Just popped open the tailgate, told the client, "You can lay it right there on the tailgate", he looked at me like, "eh?" hahaha... Then I opened it and he said, "OHhhhhhh, wow, ....yeah, that'll work". lol. He couldn't believe it wasn't factory ... But then he asked, ..."Hmmm, where's the panel? And what's that stuff in there? Damper stuff?"... Was cool to just chat with a random person about it, ya know? lol.


Oh, yeah, WOW, ... old school! haha. Thanks for the encouragement, Sista .... I can use it, and I receive it... and ya know what? Things SEEM TO BE falling in place... in a way that's AT LEAST without dissension nor hiccup. I'm just exhausted, Hab... S'gonna take me a lil bit to snap out of my haze, ya know?


Thanks, so much, Brudda! Stay safe out there, and back at you and your lovely family, man!

Hey William... good day to you as well(in advance on the next one! hahaha)

************************************************** ***

First; I'm REALLY having trouble adjusting back to getting to sleep at a decent hour... I'm SO PROGRAMED to be up til 5AM.... I just have to keep tryin!

Second; I managed to get through ALL of the paperwork so far for Medicare/Secondary/Medical-Preemptive Processing/Financials.... it's been WAY too much info... but so far, it looks like I've managed to just 'cram' the equivalent of a Proverbial '4th year Collegiate Finals Flurry' into 3 days lol..... WAY STOKED that it's mostly handled(for this phase, of course... it never stops, obviously).

Third; I AM going to hit PYP tomorrow..... It might rain, but I don't give a daggnabb'n Fliberty-Jibbett! haha.... (aka DGADang!) ..... They got an 88 4Runner and 84 PU... MAYBE I'll find a lens for my rear view mirror lighting project... Maybe not, but I NEED THIS ACTION!! lol. I sure hope no one has gotten there and raped the thing yet...It would make my day to find a couple things I need/others could use that have asked me in PM... And ESPECIALLY a clean rear window outer seal ... BUT MEH, .... I'm not likely to have that great of a string of good favor, right? haha. And I WILL NOT know if I AVOID TRYING! Eh? If I can't find that weatherstripping for the rear window soon, I'm going to order one.... I FOUND 2 NEW from Toyota! I KNOW, CRAZY, EH? hehehe.

Fourth; I am REALLY hoping that I'll be able to knock this work out in the cargo area by the weekend. Obviously if I go to PYP tomorrow, I'll not likely have much time nor energy to get on it... BUT, I have no work through the weekend, so YEAAAAAA! hahaha.

I was thinking of going camping this weekend............ BUT, ......... the Trucks not ready, and I'd MUCH rather take my rig to Havasu than the Honda...... Seats KILL me in that thing for more than around town stuff. It's pristine, but very .... 'indestructable' on the seats, etc... not so much 'cushy for the tushy', ya feel me? hahaaha. Either way I'll make it work, but I really don't think I'll have time to camp before I visit pops... AND, it may rain, ..... which would make for at least A LIL more difficult camping and in a panel-less wagon with HALF it's insulation, hahaha... ya know?

Thanks again, guys, so much, for the prayers and thoughts... It's not easy... And as hard of a time that I've had....I guess I'm just not built with that 'Easy Flip Switch to *Self Serving Mode* ',... right?

******************

PS> Ordered up the last couple remaining LED's tonight....... Should have em by the weekend