Did you have to pull the torsion bars first? Whoops didnt see that up on
the page.

 

x2 bigblue

 

not trying to high jack your thread but whats the point in putting the new tbars on wouldn't the old ones work? probably a dum question

 

Crazytoyota 4x4........ its in there you missed it.... how many beers have you had hahaha

 

The thing is that the stock t bars are a smaller diameter and with the extra leverage on the UCA from the extension, the stock ones would not be able to support the extra leverage.. think of a wrench with a cheater pipe on it...

 

budget beer for the budget LT install...hahah cheers all you to all you fellow cheapos... so back to business. Torque arms get bolted to the UCA's and then the UCA's get bolted to frame with the 3 19mm bolts.. in the pic i forgot to bolt the torque arms to the UCA's... had to remove and redo... the beers are kickin in...

 

Lookin good man!

 

i'm jealous D: i cant wait to see the finished product.

 

I set the spindle on the same small stool from disassembly and then attached the upper ball joint joint to the Blazeland UCA extension bracket using the stock 12mm hardware. Once I hand tightened the 4 nuts I removed the stool and let the assembly hang because the droop stops supported it. Then I slid the T100 axles into the spindles and reinstalled the c clips and bolt holding the outer axle in place. Then the inner axle was attached to the diff output studs using the 6 nuts on each side.

 

No beer here only everclear!! Anyways the install is looking good, really like how your breakin everything down with photos

 

The LCA was next to be installed. I slid the new LCA into position ( it took some wiggling and muscle to get in the mounts) and used a center punch to align the holes. The cam bolts went right in with a few light taps from a hammer. I only hand tightened them. The hardest part of this whole project was removing the lower ball joints from the old LCA's. I had to go to Autozone and look for a ball joint removal tool which they did not have. The manager and I ended up using a 5 ton Jaw puller and a vice to remove the things, but they came out. The installation was cake compared to the removal. Next the LCA had to be connected to the lower ball joint flange using the 4 bolts. After the ball joint flange was installed to the spindle I installed the new tie rod adjusting sleeves to the inner tie rod ends. Then the hubs went back on.

 

Looking good.

 

yeah i didn't think of it like that

 

Its taking too much time to install the kit and do the write up. Im going to finish the install and do the final writeup later.... stay tuned. oh yeah and i'm running out of beer.....

 

lmao, you cought on to that quicker than I did... why do you think it took me 3 months for my engine rebuild! have you seen all those pictures!

good progress so far man! can't wait to see it holding up it's own weight!

 

oh hell no!!! You better keep doing pics!!! LOL!!! Eh, with the one side done there's no real reason to do the other unless something new happens. Good job so far!

 

Oh and TRE puller works great on ball joints BTW!!

 

New control arms are SO SHINYYYYYYY!!!

 

MM Everclear, i fine spirit if i say so myself.

 

Ok, so where was I.... Oh yeah. UCA and LCA's are on hand tight. Now the tie rod ends went on the spindles and new tie rod adjusting sleeves connected to the outer tie rod ends.. Brake lines went on the exact reverse as they went on as well as the shocks. The torsion bars were a little tricky as there is a right and left side( marked R or L on one of the ends) and a front and rear( the SAW ones that I got had the fronts painted green. There is also a bigger spline on each of the ends of the TB that corresponds to a bigger groove in either the UCA or the rear torsion key. First the front goes in ( this took me a while to finagle it in) then same with the rear. Installation of the hardware is opposite as removed... I left the bars pretty un tensioned until i could drop it to the floor to do the ride height adjustments..