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93Xtra-Cab's 1993 Pickup

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Old 01-21-2012, 02:09 PM
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Had some snow last night. This is the first time I've ever driven it in snow. I did pretty well considering I added about 600 pounds of stepping stones in the back of it.
Old 01-21-2012, 10:22 PM
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We got about the same, but it was all gone by late morning. Truck looks good in the snow
Old 02-05-2012, 01:14 PM
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Rolled over to 179,000 today coming home from work. Sorry about the bad pic...
Old 02-19-2012, 05:34 AM
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the build looks good and about the vibrations, i think it could be a bent rim
Old 02-20-2012, 03:50 AM
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I was thinking it could be that. I'm not sure how to go about checking that. I could always jack it up and spin all the tires and see if any of them wobble.

It only vibrates starting at 40 mph, gets a little worse at 55, and then stops at around 60-65.

I read on here that it could be worn out steering and suspension components, like tie rods or ball joints. I don't know, I guess I'll check it out on winter break, maybe that'll motivate me to buy BJ spacers too
Old 02-20-2012, 04:13 AM
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yea lol
Old 02-26-2012, 11:25 AM
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Some updates. Friday was my last day until, what York College calls, "Winter Break". It was rainy and it was a long day. When I left, I was thinking how excited I was to be on break because of the long dreary day and how it was all over...until my truck stopped running in the middle of traffic...I tried to start it a few times, each time starting right up and instantly sputtering and dying. A friend who was filling up at a gas station helped me push it out of the road and whatever. Turns out one of my cold air intake tubes vibrated off, causing air to bypass the mass air sensor. I admit, I was a little scared at first, but mostly angry. In the end it was an easy fix and I was on my way.

Then on my way home, I was almost run off the road by some imbecile in a Prius. He was in the right lane of the highway and I was in the left and he decided he wanted to be exactly where I was at the same time. So I slammed on my brakes and swerved left and avoided an accident. I'm guessing he didn't even look when he merged.

But today, I decided to remove my ugly rusted tow hitch.

In order to do so, I had to remove the bumper also...


I was thinking about keeping the bumper off because it looked pretty cool




But I decided to put it back on so if I get rear-ended, it would give the bed some protection.
Old 02-27-2012, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Xtra-Cab

In order to do so, I had to remove the bumper also...


But I decided to put it back on so if I get rear-ended, it would give the bed some protection.
Good looking truck, but no bumper is the way to go!

A little muddy, I cant seem to keep mine clean .
Old 02-28-2012, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by cbecker
Good looking truck, but no bumper is the way to go!

A little muddy, I cant seem to keep mine clean .
If I were to take the spare tire off, which is dryrotted, won't hold air, and would be completely useless if I were ever to need it, it probably would have looked even better. But I decided to keep the bumper and tire on because it is more practical because of the protection and the weight in the rear.
Old 02-28-2012, 11:46 AM
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I think putting the bumper back on was the right choice! I agree, the smooth look is pretty cool, But bye bye bed if you ever get rear ended!
Old 02-28-2012, 03:24 PM
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+ the bumper weight help for a smoother ride
Old 03-01-2012, 03:39 PM
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Well, ladies and gentlemen, my truck rolled over to 180,000 miles today on my way to work



Still not even broken in yet
Old 03-15-2012, 06:51 AM
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A friend with a Toyota pickup came over and she wanted to take some pics. She sent them to me and I decided to post one. I know how ya'lls like them pictures

Hers is a '92 SR5 with the 3.0 Auto. It has had head gaskets twice and the dreaded fan explosion. Tires are 31"x10.5" General Grabber AT2s

Old 03-20-2012, 07:20 AM
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Changed the oil on Sunday after work. It hadn't been changed since mid-September of 2011 and had a little over 6000 miles between changes, so I'd say it was due.


I also wanted to jack it up to see what it would look like with 1.5" of lift. I got a before photo, but seemed to have lost the after one...
Old 03-20-2012, 07:36 AM
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Truck looks good! That red is shiny
Old 03-20-2012, 05:28 PM
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I've been doing a bit of searching about how often you should change your tranny fluid and have been getting some pretty disappointing results. I've read 30,000 mi, 40-60,000 mi, 100,000 mi, 120,000 mi, and you should never have to change it. That's like a 90,000 mile gap in the recommendations! So what do you guys think?

Either way, I can hear the bearings whine a bit and it grinds a bit when I shift from 2nd to 3rd. So if I do replace my fluid, I'm gonna get Redline MT-90, because that's what everyone recommends. It has 180,000 miles now and I'm not sure if the previous owner ever changed the fluid.

I have also been looking at AMSOIL's tranny fluid. How does theirs compare? I've heard great things about both brands.

As I'm typing this, I'm having someone tell me that if it has never been changed, that I shouldn't change it now because it will just make it worse. I should change it regularly from brand new or just not change it at all...

Let's have your opinions people!
Old 03-20-2012, 09:59 PM
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The factory service manual states that you should replace the MT fluid and diff fluid every 15K in rough conditions and inspect and change as necessary every 15K in normal conditions.

Source:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../1maintena.pdf

With that said, theres no doubt you are over due. If you just drive it, only do light off-roading and rarely tow anything of substance I would change every 30K, but I have no concrete basis for saying that.

As far as people saying that changing fluid makes an old transmission die, I'd say its bogus. If the fluid in the transmission is bad, the transmission wears faster. As transmissions wear, the clearance between moving components increases.

At the same time the fluid wears out and its lubricating characteristics change. It may also become significantly thicker from changing conditions such as cold wether. This is especially true of organic fluids which permanently thicken when exposed to the cold for an extended period of time. The fluid may also contain particles that have worn off in the transmission and contaminants. Most likely the net effect of this is a thicker fluid. This thicker fluid masks the effects of the transmission wear, thus when you change it the wear may become more apparent. The new fluid is not only thinner but likely contains detergents which clean up some of the build up, and leaks may surface.

Many believe that the fluid change caused the problems, but the problems already existed and the old fluid was simply masking them. So why not just leave the old fluid in? The old fluid is worn, contaminated, and the detergents and friction modifiers have likely stopped performing. Leaving this old fluid in will inevitably lead to the demise of your transmission, which is why I believe its always best to change it.

In extreme cases the transmission is so badly worn that the new fluid will introduce enough play to end the transmission, but if this is the case, your transmission was about to die either way. This is more common in automatics, more often than not changing the fluid in manual transmissions will suppress undesirable characteristics.

To summarize, while changing the fluid may make you more aware of how worn your transmission already is, doing so will generally increase the transmission's life.
Old 03-21-2012, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Lewis15498
The factory service manual states that you should replace the MT fluid and diff fluid every 15K in rough conditions and inspect and change as necessary every 15K in normal conditions.

Source:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../1maintena.pdf

With that said, theres no doubt you are over due. If you just drive it, only do light off-roading and rarely tow anything of substance I would change every 30K, but I have no concrete basis for saying that.

As far as people saying that changing fluid makes an old transmission die, I'd say its bogus. If the fluid in the transmission is bad, the transmission wears faster. As transmissions wear, the clearance between moving components increases.

At the same time the fluid wears out and its lubricating characteristics change. It may also become significantly thicker from changing conditions such as cold wether. This is especially true of organic fluids which permanently thicken when exposed to the cold for an extended period of time. The fluid may also contain particles that have worn off in the transmission and contaminants. Most likely the net effect of this is a thicker fluid. This thicker fluid masks the effects of the transmission wear, thus when you change it the wear may become more apparent. The new fluid is not only thinner but likely contains detergents which clean up some of the build up, and leaks may surface.

Many believe that the fluid change caused the problems, but the problems already existed and the old fluid was simply masking them. So why not just leave the old fluid in? The old fluid is worn, contaminated, and the detergents and friction modifiers have likely stopped performing. Leaving this old fluid in will inevitably lead to the demise of your transmission, which is why I believe its always best to change it.

In extreme cases the transmission is so badly worn that the new fluid will introduce enough play to end the transmission, but if this is the case, your transmission was about to die either way. This is more common in automatics, more often than not changing the fluid in manual transmissions will suppress undesirable characteristics.

To summarize, while changing the fluid may make you more aware of how worn your transmission already is, doing so will generally increase the transmission's life.

Yes! Thank you! That is one of the most concrete answers I've read so far

Do you have a brand preference?
Old 04-13-2012, 02:15 PM
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My dads truck makes mine look tiny
Old 04-13-2012, 02:26 PM
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Got new upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, pitman arm, and idler arm


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