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The '88 Runner Grocery Getter

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Old 01-10-2018, 08:17 AM   #1
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The '88 Runner Grocery Getter

Howdy everyone, new to this forum.

I had a few non-Toyota build threads years ago and really enjoyed the social interaction and collective ideas established by continuously posting build updates on previous builds and thought I would once again do a build thread in hopes to expose and inherent ideas from fellow Toyota lovers.

To start off, I am 29 years of age. I started the tradition of off-roading at the age of 20 where I built a jeep Cherokee that used a Volkswagen Vanagon Westy top as the pop top. The goal was to build an expedition style vehicle for camping and enjoying the back country. During this process, my love for technical rock crawling came to known and I began to leave the 'expedition' style trucks for much more elaborate builds that not only used much of my own engineering and fabrication skills, but also driving skills. Thus began a decade long relationship with trailer queen rock crawlers... oh, and a ($*@ ton of money. After moving from NY to NC and becoming more finance savvy, I have sold almost everything in the past couple years. I am at the age where I would like to explore and have fun while remaining on a safe budget, thus the idea of having a more road capable exploration vehicle is ideal. Feels like I have done a full circle and I am back to the beginning.

I will be posting prices up because this is a budget build, if its too expensive to post on this site then I probably shouldn't have bought it. I will also be posting annual goals every new year. Plans change, but its nice to have a set of guidelines to look back at.

The vehicle I have chosen is a 1988 4Runner 22re 5-speed with 213k on the clock that I picked up for $4,000. Southern to the bone, there is not a spec of a rust (minus a few pieces that were cut out from the rear fender). The owner was in the process of restoring it and had already replaced a ton of parts. Completely new fuel system, new 5 KO2s, all new billis on each corner, all new coolant system, new AFM, TPS, and air intake, a complete new exhaust from the header to the tail pipe, and a bunch of other little odds and ends. It also came with boxes which includes h4s with ARB wiring, Doug Thorley headers, and a ton of seals, plastics, and original new hardware.

Here she is...















The goals is to make a clean daily derivable vehicle that I can take on overland trips across country but make it beefy enough to handle intermediate trails and fill my off-road needs.

For this first year, its the basics. Replacing parts, up-fitting armor, and making it a basic trail/camp worthy vehicle.

At the end of this year, I would like to dig into the suspension. It will be 3 link front and rear, lockers, 5.29s, and 35 inch tires. I am also considering a 3.4 swap but hate to do it to an already 22re truck, but time will tell.
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Old 01-10-2018, 09:02 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forum and nice find!
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... Feels like I have done a full circle and I am back to the beginning...
... I am also considering a 3.4 swap but hate to do it to an already 22re truck...
Yes, keep it simple but reliable - and low-maintenance. That's the beauty of the 22RE. Many people obsess over and spend too much money on fancy electronics/ power stuff, the have to go through the trouble of bypassing them when power goes out. In fact, on my list is deleting the roll-up rear window and replacing with flip-up one that requires no battery like those on camper shells.
So what if it's slow? We'll catch up when the road ends. Focus on making sure it will get you where you're going and back reliably. Lockers would be nice though.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-10-2018 at 09:03 AM.
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Old 01-10-2018, 11:45 AM   #3
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Congrats! Looks like a nice truck and a good price too!
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Old 01-10-2018, 02:03 PM   #4
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Welcome to the forum and nice find!

Yes, keep it simple but reliable - and low-maintenance. That's the beauty of the 22RE. Many people obsess over and spend too much money on fancy electronics/ power stuff, the have to go through the trouble of bypassing them when power goes out. In fact, on my list is deleting the roll-up rear window and replacing with flip-up one that requires no battery like those on camper shells.
So what if it's slow? We'll catch up when the road ends. Focus on making sure it will get you where you're going and back reliably. Lockers would be nice though.

^^^^ I believe this concept encompasses the very fundamentals of the successful off-road community. Less moving parts and simpler designs. I am all about it. Thank you for the welcome! I really wish they designed the shells with a flip-up.
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Old 01-10-2018, 02:24 PM   #5
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I have had the 4runner for almost a year now, so a few of these posts will be bringing everyone up to date thus far.

One of the first things I did was having the timing chain checked with the plans of replacement. Took it to a well known old school Toyota shop that I trust to have it done. After they cracked it open for a looksy, they noticed that the chain was already replaced recently. They ended up re-adjusting the valves (1 was too tight) and filling her back up with oil.

In one of the boxes was the H4 headlights with the harness. Since the lights were so dim I decided why not and through them in. A simple project to kick off the build.





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Old 01-10-2018, 03:23 PM   #6
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Also, a little leak became a big leak with the power steering..



Out with the old, in with the new..
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Old 01-11-2018, 08:17 AM   #7
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I wanted to build a storage box for the rear, but have since then decided against it. I figured I would post it anyway since it is still in my truck, but up for sale.

Since I purchase larger containers of fluids (oil, coolant, steering, brakes, etc), most of these containers are 12" tall. I wanted to have some kind of organized storage for the rear of the truck so I built the box around these specs. I built an aluminum frame (light weight) and attached 3/4 wood to the face (not light weight). I wanted it strong to carry equipment on top.

Anyway, I like the finished product, but it weighs around 60 lbs empty. After having it a few months I have decided to put it up for sale and build a much lower storage box that is the 5th of the weight and covers the entire floor.












Since then I have added airline track all the way around the inside and use a bungee system that acts as tight dividers to keep everything organized and in place.

Anyway, its for sale now if anyone is interested near NC.
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Old 01-11-2018, 08:56 AM   #8
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Now what I have been working on the past month before the new year.

Thanks to google sketch (my favorite free program), I am able to build armor for the 4runner by just taking a few measurements off the body and designing a 3D replica. It also allows me to measure each piece and build a sort of puzzle which makes quick work when it actually comes to building the bumper.

This is the 3rd or 4th version I have created, and the one I decided to stick with.



The rear center cut out is for the rear winch. I always ran rear winches because it was the most used winch and could be used for multiple applications. Since I do not have a tire underneath the truck anymore, its a perfect place for a winch cross member which I will do later this year. I also like the idea of a double shear joint connection on the swing out tire. The single shears have to be overly built to handle the weight and are more app to fail. Plus, its a bit more money to make that happen, where I can build a simple double shear joint right in house.

I purchased a sheet of 3/16" 4' x 8' steel ($112). I also used some 1/4" plates within the design (frame mounts/tapped sections) for additional needed strength.












Since the shop was shut down for a week during christmas, I had only a few days to get it done. Because of that, I ran out of time to do d-ring mounts and the fairlead hole. I will do these on the truck. I also need to build some kind of open lock to keep the swing-out from swinging freely when open.

The semi-finished product...







Not too bad for $100 and a few days work.
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Old 01-11-2018, 09:11 AM   #9
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i like the rear bumper design, especially the part the replicates the stock trim piece between the back edge of the quarter panel and the stock bumper end caps. makes it look finished, whereas a lot of the tube/custom bumpers do not have a finished look there.


you noted it, but you really should dig in to the rusted areas on the rear quarters while you have material to work with, plus it will eliminate water/moisture getting inside at that location.
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Old 01-11-2018, 09:34 AM   #10
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Thank you! I tried to stay within the original dimensions of the factory bumper to make it look more complete. But I realized there is a bigger reason for the tube bumpers on these 22res... weight. I imagine this bumper weighs a good 20lb - 40lbs more than a tube bumper. But I have always liked plate steel bumpers for the finished look.

Agreed. Ill see what I can do. Body work is not my strong suit.... the previous owner cut out the cancer and re primed all of the areas. I am guessing it wasn't his strong suit either because that's as far as he got . But I am glad he stopped it where he did. It probably wouldn't take too much work to get it back together. When the air warms up in a few weeks I will tackle that and get it done.
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Old 01-11-2018, 09:40 AM   #11
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subscrizzled
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Old 01-11-2018, 12:00 PM   #12
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Needed to get that butt back up. Close to a 2" sag in the rear from factory, decided to build some taller shackles. My plan is to get some sumosprings in placement of the bumpstops. A friend did the same on his 4runner and it worked out great. I see that people are using the zuk mod which until now, I didn't know about. I may do that instead (cheaper), but essentially its the same concept. Both are the same amount of work. The nice thing about the sumos is that I can use them when I go to do the 3 link rear where as the zuks would have to be removed and sold.

The shackles are to get her back up to stock height, and the sumos will be inserted for the more aggressive spring rate needed for additional weight.

These are 5/16 thick. Had to make new sleeves out of 3/4" tubing and drilling out the ID to 5/8". Had to also cut the exhaust back around the leaf spring which I was bummed about. I didn't realize there was going to be an interference issue until I had the originals unhooked.







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Old 01-11-2018, 12:13 PM   #13
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Nice fab skills, very jealous, wish I could bend 3/16" steel.
If your plans are to link the rear eventually, I'd skip the sumo or zuk spring mod, those shackles should give you enough lift. Do some research on a rear 3-link, I'm no authority, but there are some characteristics of a 3 link rear that may not be desirable. A 4 link is more appropriate for the rear since you do not have a panhard to swing the axle left to right, where a 4 link will keep the axle centered during suspension cycling. I say all this because you are clearly driving this on the highway. Check out 4Wheel Underground, that guy is a wealth of information when it comes to suspension.

Keep up the good work.

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Old 01-11-2018, 12:32 PM   #14
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Nice 4Runner!, that is a clean specimen. Also, I like your cargo box, but I agree it's too tall. That rear bumper is slick, very nice job. Welcome to the forum, looking forward to your progress.
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Old 01-11-2018, 01:56 PM   #15
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Nice fab skills, very jealous, wish I could bend 3/16" steel.
If your plans are to link the rear eventually, I'd skip the sumo or zuk spring mod, those shackles should give you enough lift. Do some research on a rear 3-link, I'm no authority, but there are some characteristics of a 3 link rear that may not be desirable. A 4 link is more appropriate for the rear since you do not have a panhard to swing the axle left to right, where a 4 link will keep the axle centered during suspension cycling. I say all this because you are clearly driving this on the highway. Check out 4Wheel Underground, that guy is a wealth of information when it comes to suspension.

Keep up the good work.

RB
I have been on the fence about a 3 link or 4 link. I would never do a 3 link rear for a high articulating vehicle because of all of the rear steer issues (which is a line killer). I was thinking 3 link on this because I was going to keep the articulation fairly low with limiting straps which would minimize rear steer issues, but still have the ride of coil over leaf springs. The main benefit to the three link is space underneath and link placement. But, as far as street driven vehicles I am now unsure since you have mentioned it. I will have to do my research. The only thing I can see being an issue is roll axis around corners changing and braking/acceleration. I am not sure how much these are affected.

A 4 link is perfect for a rear end in every way except the fact that it dictates the possibility of heavy frame modifications.

I may end up in your shoes RBX, start the front first and go from there. I will definitely check out that site and see if there is any information with on-road applications. Thank you!

Last edited by DMiller; 01-11-2018 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 01-11-2018, 02:59 PM   #16
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That rear bumper looks very good!
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Old 01-11-2018, 04:19 PM   #17
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My father picked this up a few days ago while I was at work. $80 Softtopper off of a nissan frontier.

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Old 01-12-2018, 04:52 AM   #18
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$80 for a softtopper, you lucky dog. Let us know how it fits, did it come with the bottom rail? I have a Softtopper on my 4Runner and I love driving with the sides rolled up.
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Old 01-12-2018, 10:11 AM   #19
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Beautiful work on the bumper; clean, lean, and blends in well with the body!
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... taller shackles. ...people are using the zuk mod
I don't know how the Sumo thing works but if budget is tight, between longer shackles and zuk, I favor zuk because it improves ride quality, while the longer shackles only fixes the sag.
I wonder:
1) How much OEM springs would be is still available,
2) How are people's experience with re-arcing stock springs,
3) What other spring options to get original rear height, OR
4) Or options to get ONE-inch lift using certain springs. (I think my Zuk restored to stock height but it settles when I load gear for trips. One-inch higher would be sweeter, because it would compensate for settling but not require lifting the front. OME's popular upgrade lifts 2 inches above above stock and needs front to be lifted to level (and I think that affects ride quality and reliability(.
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Old 01-12-2018, 11:27 AM   #20
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I have been on the fence about a 3 link or 4 link. I would never do a 3 link rear for a high articulating vehicle because of all of the rear steer issues (which is a line killer). I was thinking 3 link on this because I was going to keep the articulation fairly low with limiting straps which would minimize rear steer issues, but still have the ride of coil over leaf springs. The main benefit to the three link is space underneath and link placement. But, as far as street driven vehicles I am now unsure since you have mentioned it. I will have to do my research. The only thing I can see being an issue is roll axis around corners changing and braking/acceleration. I am not sure how much these are affected.

A 4 link is perfect for a rear end in every way except the fact that it dictates the possibility of heavy frame modifications.

I may end up in your shoes RBX, start the front first and go from there. I will definitely check out that site and see if there is any information with on-road applications. Thank you!
BTW, for legal reasons you won't find a DOT certified link suspension kit for our Toyotas, they will all say off-road use only. However, you will find threads and testimonials where people talk about the road-worthyness of a specific kit especially 4WU.
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