87 'runner boosted's 4Runner SR5 build up thread
07-27-2011, 07:48 AM
#81
Registered User
Thread Starter
alright alright alright, been awhile since i last posted. got seriously held up on parts...between machine shop and my head...anyways, its all sorted. got EVERYTHING i needed back yesterday. Got the pistons assembled, cam in head and block painted. Lacked some brake cleaner to clean a few other parts up yesterday and then "Amerca's got talent" came on and i got distracted (see, at least im honest). Anyways, I gotta get a few more parts cleaned up, get my engine back on the stand and start assembling. So far so good...hope to god the starting part goes smoothly soon...
07-27-2011, 10:25 AM
#83
Registered User
Thread Starter
HA! sure thing. and the flux capacitor while im at it eh? ha. Im hoping to have the engine assembled and ready for install before the end of the week. Im going to florida on vacation all next week....would like to have an engine ready to drop in when i get back, but who knows, there are a lot of "if's, and's, but's" between assembling and installing...will see how it goes. and i got pics of the goodies, maybe post them tonight if i have time.
07-29-2011, 07:13 PM
#85
Registered User
Thread Starter
Alright guys, taking some time to throw up some progress pics on here, been taking them, might as well share them. Having some difficulties remember exactly what bolt goes where
but am slowly figuring it out...really wishing that i had taken more "before" pictures, I thought the FSM would be a pretty much step by step guide to rebuilding that engine and have recently discovered that ITS NOT!!! Anyways, here are some pics :
Rods, back from machine shop, able to clean them up for reuse (thank god)
Brand new head (thats right, brand new, not refurb and fitment is flawless) that i bought off ebay for $260, comes with a 5yr/50k warranty...
My crankshaft (also salvaged, not too bad for having spun 3 rod bearings). Mains are .010" over and rods were cut 0.030" over, definitely beats buying another crank...
My block back from the machine shop, bored 0.030" over and vatted (figured i might as well...didnt spun 3 rods because it was overlubed, and by the garbage i found in the oil galleys, its no wonder i spun them)
Head after installing my 261c "crawler" cam, purchased from Low Range Off-Road.com, great guys with great prices
Pistons and rods assembled, love all this shiny aluminum!!!
Picture of the block with upper mains installed
This picture I want everyone to pay close attention to, see the little shadow around the crank (and yes, that is a very small gap), That gap is on the upper portion of the seal doesnt look like its going to seal on the op, I have pictures of both the top and bottom, want yalls opinion...will the seal seat after running for awhile or should I replace it....again???
This is a little visitor I had on my tool box while I was working on my engine...thought it was a piece of grass or a leave that had blown in and stuck to it...nope, it was a little mantis
Pic of block, painted and pistons installed
Just had to take a pic of the "rock products" logo on the head gasket, as it was going to be the last time anyone saw it.
Pic of engine with new head and cam installed
And then with the rockers and timing chain installed
And if anyone wants to explain this to me...I would be very greatful. There appear to be timing marks on the oil pump...for what reason, i have no earthly idea. the FSM doesnt mention it anywhere...I cant seem to figure why the heck they would be there...but anyways, they are there. If anyone know, let me know, so ill know, ha. Thanks for lookin again
but am slowly figuring it out...really wishing that i had taken more "before" pictures, I thought the FSM would be a pretty much step by step guide to rebuilding that engine and have recently discovered that ITS NOT!!! Anyways, here are some pics :Rods, back from machine shop, able to clean them up for reuse (thank god)
Brand new head (thats right, brand new, not refurb and fitment is flawless) that i bought off ebay for $260, comes with a 5yr/50k warranty...
My crankshaft (also salvaged, not too bad for having spun 3 rod bearings). Mains are .010" over and rods were cut 0.030" over, definitely beats buying another crank...
My block back from the machine shop, bored 0.030" over and vatted (figured i might as well...didnt spun 3 rods because it was overlubed, and by the garbage i found in the oil galleys, its no wonder i spun them)
Head after installing my 261c "crawler" cam, purchased from Low Range Off-Road.com, great guys with great prices
Pistons and rods assembled, love all this shiny aluminum!!!
Picture of the block with upper mains installed
This picture I want everyone to pay close attention to, see the little shadow around the crank (and yes, that is a very small gap), That gap is on the upper portion of the seal doesnt look like its going to seal on the op, I have pictures of both the top and bottom, want yalls opinion...will the seal seat after running for awhile or should I replace it....again???
This is a little visitor I had on my tool box while I was working on my engine...thought it was a piece of grass or a leave that had blown in and stuck to it...nope, it was a little mantis
Pic of block, painted and pistons installed
Just had to take a pic of the "rock products" logo on the head gasket, as it was going to be the last time anyone saw it.
Pic of engine with new head and cam installed
And then with the rockers and timing chain installed
And if anyone wants to explain this to me...I would be very greatful. There appear to be timing marks on the oil pump...for what reason, i have no earthly idea. the FSM doesnt mention it anywhere...I cant seem to figure why the heck they would be there...but anyways, they are there. If anyone know, let me know, so ill know, ha.
Thanks for lookin again
07-29-2011, 08:27 PM
#86
Wow, great work....
On the seal, you mean that the "OD" of the seal in the seal housing or the "ID" of the seal on the crank is showing a gap??? Looks like the outer portion... so Just a quick question... is this the original seal housing? If you're talking about where the crank rides on the seal ("ID"),....then there should be no gap, and my guess is no, it will NOT wear into/seal to the crank if there is any noticeable gap to the eye. Mine wasn't really SNUG, per say, ...but it went on kinda like glove.... (IOW, you had to push it on a lil, but not really dramatically.)
Far as the oil pump marker,.... I remember my haynes DOES say something about that, IIRC,... "Make sure to get them back aligned" or something like that, ONLY if you're reusing the same pump. I will try to find it, I could be misremembering, don't wanna misinform ya! I dropped mine, and didn't have any clue where they were when I took them out,....so I just oiled them properly and inserted them, ..... installed it on the cover, ... it's worked fine for 3K, ... so not sure. But then again, ..it's a fairly new pump(8K)....
GREAT WORK, man! You be flyin, eh?????? lol.
On the seal, you mean that the "OD" of the seal in the seal housing or the "ID" of the seal on the crank is showing a gap??? Looks like the outer portion... so Just a quick question... is this the original seal housing? If you're talking about where the crank rides on the seal ("ID"),....then there should be no gap, and my guess is no, it will NOT wear into/seal to the crank if there is any noticeable gap to the eye. Mine wasn't really SNUG, per say, ...but it went on kinda like glove.... (IOW, you had to push it on a lil, but not really dramatically.)
Far as the oil pump marker,.... I remember my haynes DOES say something about that, IIRC,... "Make sure to get them back aligned" or something like that, ONLY if you're reusing the same pump. I will try to find it, I could be misremembering, don't wanna misinform ya! I dropped mine, and didn't have any clue where they were when I took them out,....so I just oiled them properly and inserted them, ..... installed it on the cover, ... it's worked fine for 3K, ... so not sure. But then again, ..it's a fairly new pump(8K)....
GREAT WORK, man! You be flyin, eh?????? lol.
07-30-2011, 05:16 AM
#89
Registered User
Thread Starter
Nah, it's the ID, I may have. Damaged the sal during install. I'll pull the housing and get a new seal and try again before installing. Last seal in the world I want leaking after I get it running....
07-30-2011, 09:27 AM
#90
"Don't want that leaking once it's all buttoned up".... Aint that the truth, ....OY! LOL.
Ok, ID, .... so the actual portion of the seal that gets friction. Well, if it looks different on one side than another, that might concern me, .... but bottom line is, it's easy and cheap to replace.... so why not for ease of mind, right?
PS> USE GREASE!(XXX can back me up, .....c'mon, someone? hahaha) lol. I used oil like HALF say to do, before I'd heard a few on the Red Grease advice(doesn't HAVE to be the red one, it's just free of metals or graphite). The rear I used oil, then a few days later, I used Red Grease on the front main seal.... The front main hasn't leaked a drop, the rear leaked for around the first 1200 miles of it's life. SUDDENLY, one day, I GOT LUCKY and it sealed up! FHEWWWW! lol. Of course, it may give me grief again, but I will be pulling the tranny sooner than later, ...so it wouldn't be a big deal for me to tackle it again, REGARDLESS of whether it leaks or not. Ya know? Also, ....the front seal that didn't leak is from TOYOTA and the rear, which did, is from NAPA. I think Napa seals are fine, many have used them MANY times and for many miles.... no issues! ......So ....the seemingly unrelated moral to this story in part is, ....... I'MA USE RED GREASE FROM NOW ON! hahahaha.
PS> Used the grease on my Trans input shaft seal and it's not leaked a drop, either. (You know, the one that the PO had in backwards? lol
Ok, ID, .... so the actual portion of the seal that gets friction. Well, if it looks different on one side than another, that might concern me, .... but bottom line is, it's easy and cheap to replace.... so why not for ease of mind, right?
PS> USE GREASE!(XXX can back me up, .....c'mon, someone? hahaha) lol. I used oil like HALF say to do, before I'd heard a few on the Red Grease advice(doesn't HAVE to be the red one, it's just free of metals or graphite). The rear I used oil, then a few days later, I used Red Grease on the front main seal.... The front main hasn't leaked a drop, the rear leaked for around the first 1200 miles of it's life. SUDDENLY, one day, I GOT LUCKY and it sealed up! FHEWWWW! lol. Of course, it may give me grief again, but I will be pulling the tranny sooner than later, ...so it wouldn't be a big deal for me to tackle it again, REGARDLESS of whether it leaks or not. Ya know? Also, ....the front seal that didn't leak is from TOYOTA and the rear, which did, is from NAPA. I think Napa seals are fine, many have used them MANY times and for many miles.... no issues! ......So ....the seemingly unrelated moral to this story in part is, ....... I'MA USE RED GREASE FROM NOW ON! hahahaha.
PS> Used the grease on my Trans input shaft seal and it's not leaked a drop, either. (You know, the one that the PO had in backwards? lol
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 07-30-2011 at 09:28 AM.
08-04-2011, 12:43 PM
#95
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Logan, Ut
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I'm a firm believer in using grease on the seals also. I don't remember the last time I've had to replace a seal more than once. I've heard the same thing about synthetic not letting the rings seal properly, but not sure if it's true
08-10-2011, 10:53 AM
#96
Registered User
Thread Starter
alright, and what about this grease on the seal thing??? do you put it around the outter edge when installing??? on the ID after its installed in the housing??? explain this to me...never heard of it before...
08-10-2011, 04:19 PM
#98
I used Red grease this time, on the front, .... it's not leaked a drop. I placed it 'moderately' inside the ID.... NEVER put anything on the OD, unless you're using something like that now illegal "Seal Secure" , that comes with an applicator, etc.(FEDS don't let that stuff in the country any more, supposedly..... Ozone? Yeah,....lol) But not grease, not on the outside. The outside is actually coated with a colored 'stuff' that should seal up even a couple lil score marks, etc.
I used oil on the rear main and it leaked for about 4 days.... FINALLY, thank God, the seal worked it's way into a groove with the crank and sealed itself(?) lol. (shoulda used grease, as I was told, but it was too late by then, lol) What I do know is that the front main was leaking when I used oil.... now, with red grease, it's not. (PS> I was told to use Red Grease as it contains no metals or graphite which I guess would be more for suspension stuffs, along with white lithium.......)....BUTTTTTTTT, .....do a lil more searching and use what you feel/are told is best.
08-11-2011, 08:55 AM
#99
Registered User
Thread Starter
im using red. got the oil pump, water pump, timing cover (still trying to find 2 bolts that need to go in that thing...dont know where the heck they went), front crank (after putting red grease on the seal), got engine retimed as it was off 1 tooth from my guestimate (which is a lot harder to do with a new timing chain tensioner than it is with an old one), lower intake and egr block off plates are installed.got a decent ammount done yesterday, pretty much gotta get the accessories installed, gotta get an engine lift bracket (the rear one) from the scrap yard on saturday and get my oil pan cleaned out. hoping to have an engine installed this weekend, dont know if itll be running yet or not, but itll be installed. I wanna thank all you guys again for all your help with this build, has been one heck of an experience.
08-11-2011, 09:55 AM
#100
Registered User
Thread Starter
Also, im getting rid of vacuum lines, mostly for simplicity of reassembly. BUT, i wanna know what i can/cant get away with...i searched the threads and mostly saw threads where people were scorned for being retarded...gotta be some that a guy doesnt need after egr deletion is done....and a/c doesnt work either...let me know...
